rogerguzzi Posted January 31 Posted January 31 41 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Maybe wants pads that are not made of greased weetabix…..? Mintex 1144 if can be found? Hello Nick I have a set of Green Stuff ones if you are interested(some swear by them and some do not??) I do have a set of Mintex 1144's (but they are for Spitty if I ever wear the NOS ones that are on now(Asbestos filled) We did not have the Slightest brake fade when doing the Alpine trip but the TR6 with his 4 pot callipers was slowing lots of time with brake fade and the other TR6 was not much better but probably fitted with Eco Friendly ones that do not work in our old cars as the pad area is to small compared to moderns! Roger ps I will be going to Stoneleigh in a weeks time would you like me to look for some NOS ones?
Sigma hurricane Posted February 2 Posted February 2 On 1/31/2025 at 7:00 PM, Nick Jones said: So…. Brake calipers are fine. I think it’s a bedding in think - they improving. Also bled the fronts and shifted a little air so the pedal feel is a bit better. Distributor freed off easily and is actually in reasonable condition under the grime. Swapped in ABL needles with the original red springs and set the carbs up again. This time with colour tune (thanks for the reminder David!). Got front and back evenly “just blue” at idle. Balanced again. We now have something resembling an idle but still the persistent “lope” and reluctance to stay idling at less than 900rpm. Checked the valve clearances which seem to be intentionally set at 12 thou inlet 15 thou exhaust. Not standard and not rattly either. Goes very much better though still a little lean higher up I think. Also stops better, though plenty of room for improvement. Maybe wants pads that are not made of greased weetabix…..? Mintex 1144 if can be found? Investigated the non functional sidelight and found this WTAF?!! Yes, the glass has melted….. never seen that before! Luckily the the holder and lens has escaped with only minor singeing. He’s taken it home (20 miles) and made it. The speedo has given up completely now though…. Current stance Tyres are 165/65 on 5.5”. Bit small and not helping the gearing any. OD is on the short list….. And an oil cooler. Do you need an overdrive gear box or oil cooler? Only ask as I’m about to pull them out of the hurricane so will be going spare….
Nick Jones Posted February 2 Author Posted February 2 Hah! Yes to both, please PM me Just yesterday I collected a donor non-OD box as the beginning of an attempt to create an OD one from it and the contents of my garage. However, being naturally lazy I’m always interested in ways to reduce my workload though! Also looking for an OD propshaft, mounting plate and mount (possibly the mount & plate are same as GT6?) Happily I’m informed that they successfully visited Malmesbury from Taunton and returned without incident. At approximately 160 miles return I’m pretty sure this will be the car’s longest journey in the last 10 years, possibly ever!
Escadrille Ecosse Posted February 2 Posted February 2 7 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Hah! Yes to both, please PM me Isn't serendipity a marvelous invention. 8 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Happily I’m informed that they successfully visited Malmesbury from Taunton and returned without incident. Even better
Nick Jones Posted February 2 Author Posted February 2 The report of their successful arrival (at both ends, but especially the return home) was a significant relief to me! 2
Nick Jones Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 Just dismantled a non-OD Dolly 1500 gearbox as a donor for the OD conversion. It’s in fairly good shape - never been apart before by the looks. Just a hint of pitting starting on the layshaft so I’ll flip that through 180 on reassembly. Only disappointment is that it’s an earlier one with the scroll “seal” on the input shaft. Seems that the input shaft is different (smaller) so I can’t just swap the bell housing. ISTR @rogerguzzi got around this somehow?
Escadrille Ecosse Posted February 8 Posted February 8 11 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Only disappointment is that it’s an earlier one with the scroll “seal” on the input shaft. Seems that the input daft is different (smaller) so I can’t just swap the bell housing. ISTR @rogerguzzi got around this somehow? The seal carrier can be knocked out of the bellhousing and swapped over. Does this help at all?
Nick Jones Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 Yes, that’s the easy part. The input shaft seems to have a smaller diameter where the seal would run though? Either that or Paddocks have sent the wrong seal.
JumpingFrog Posted February 8 Posted February 8 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Yes, that’s the easy part. The input shaft seems to have a smaller diameter where the seal would run though? Either that or Paddocks have sent the wrong seal. There are two different parts numbers for the input shaft, depending on if scroll or lip seal. That said, I've read there is a seal that fits the scroll seal shaft (maybe a metric one) and then you can machine down the inside of the scroll seal housing to accept it. Don't know if this helps? I can try to find the dimensions of the seal you need, I have it saved somewhere... Edited February 8 by JumpingFrog
Nick Jones Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 Thanks. I’m sure there will be a seal that matches the shaft and the later seal housing. I may have the later seal housing but could also machine the scroll housing I suppose.
rogerguzzi Posted February 8 Posted February 8 Hello Nick I had is problem but I got over it by making a new sleeve/bearing carrier so the seal sits on the smooth bit of the input shaft and machined it to suit a seal size that works! I could not make a non scroll one work could not find a seal that would work and it is a very small bit of smooth shaft to run on ! But it has worked for thousands of miles so I must have got it about right/ But the easier way is find a later input shaft! (but there is no challenge in that is there?) Roger 1
Nick Jones Posted February 9 Author Posted February 9 Thanks Roger. Not sure I'm up for making a whole new bearing carrier! Interesting that you reckon there's no seal that will suit the combination of seal type sleeve and scroll type input shaft. Did you consider machining the scroll-type sleeve to suit a seal? No doubt all the correct parts are in the 'box that's in the car - but I was hoping to arrange everything for a straight swap over! I suppose i could just leave it as a scroll type - doesn't appear to have been leaking all that much!
rogerguzzi Posted February 9 Posted February 9 Hello Nick I think the problem was I could not machine the scroll one to suit an oil seal as it would have got a bit thin I think/ But the later type maybe ok but whether you can get a seal with the right o/d and the smaller i/d I am not sure but you could possibly make a sleeve to take the o/d down a bit? Roger ps I did not have a later type available plus I made it a bit longer so the bearing carrier was always fully supported! 1
Nick Jones Posted February 16 Author Posted February 16 Today we have been messing with carb needles. The correct needles for the car in standard form are ADNs. As previously observed they are waaaay lean. We then tried ABLs (because I had some) and they were better but still way too lean up the rev range. Then, today, the AANs (because I had some and they were better profile looked hopeful) which were very much better, but still too lean up top. Finally AAX (last of my stock) and they seem to be the ones. It really goes quite well now, still pulling away at 80+ but way too many revs!
Nick Jones Posted February 16 Author Posted February 16 But this is coming along…… Probably just going with the scroll seal for now. Now I need to find the final top cover…… it’s in the garage somewhere! Himself also has changed the water pump for a standard mechanical fan one. The original pump was leaking intermittently anyway. Fortunately we had a standard fan in stock as they are remarkably expensive! That’s cured the scary clattering noises. Also one engine mount swapped for a much better one.
mpbarrett Posted February 16 Posted February 16 good to hear it back on the road and working! Good result. OD will make it a much nicer car to drive and something magical about using a switch to add another gear (or 2) to the box, much more fun than a 5 speed box! 1
Escadrille Ecosse Posted February 16 Posted February 16 9 minutes ago, mpbarrett said: something magical about using a switch to add another gear (or 2) Indeed
rogerguzzi Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Hello Nick It is a lot of trouble but my getting overdrive on second is a treat when loaded and in mountains(probably a waste of time most of the time but good when needed as the gap between 2nd and 3rd is big!) Roger ps but for uk type driving with no big mountains passes its not needed but its good when needed!
rogerguzzi Posted February 17 Posted February 17 This man makes a great o/d logic box and cheap I have one in Spitty and it is great Roge TR Register Members 1 32,232 posts Location:West London Posted January 24 Hi Folks I have made a small batch of OD Logic Boxes ready for sale Both A & J types at £50 It will require a momentary ON switch that is biased to 0V. I can modify your existing switch for £10 The TR2 - 3A switch is more awkward to modify but a number have been successfully converted. They can also be converted back to standard. The box can engage OD manually. It can be disengaged both manually and Automatically by coming out of gear Easy to fit if you have access to the OD relay- as is normal. Roger r
Nick Jones Posted February 17 Author Posted February 17 18 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Today we have been messing with carb needles. The correct needles for the car in standard form are ADNs. As previously observed they are waaaay lean. We then tried ABLs (because I had some) and they were better but still way too lean up the rev range. Then, today, the AANs (because I had some and they were better profile looked hopeful) which were very much better, but still too lean up top. Finally AAX (last of my stock) and they seem to be the ones. It really goes quite well now, still pulling away at 80+ but way too many revs! Meant to observe on this that the outstanding mystery is why the bloody thing needs so much more needle. Can’t just be the 4-2-1 & GT6 exhaust. It’s still on the standard air filters & box. Still suspect it has ‘a cam’ in it, not least because it completely refuses to come to a civilised idle preferring “rur-rur-rur-rur”, though it’s perfectly tractable straight off idle. Quick and dirty valve lift measure didn’t really back this up though. Need to measure properly. 13 hours ago, rogerguzzi said: This man makes a great o/d logic box and cheap I have one in Spitty and it is great Roger Yes, this has been discussed, along with the great “gear stick vs column switch” debate. Probably will be gear stick (we have that switch though not the stick itself) and it’s the later column and switches so doesn’t really lend itself to a column switch. Though with the logic box a momentary button on the steering wheel would suffice…..
Spit131 Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Hi Nick , what is the length of the prop shaft you are after ?
rogerguzzi Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Hello Nick This how I did mine can not see the point of one on the gearstick! Roger ps on my ford clutch plate If I skim the flywheel I will gain 4% friction area on flywheel side but loose 7 to 8% clutch cover side? pps but I recon if it had enough area for an Escort 1300 or a Cortina 1300 which can both carry 4 people it should be good enough for Spitty as I do not do track days etc or fierce getaways more gentle touring as befits my age!(What do you think?) ppps plus it will not be eco friendly material! 1
JohnD Posted February 17 Posted February 17 6 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Meant to observe on this that the outstanding mystery is why the bloody thing needs so much more needle. Can’t just be the 4-2-1 & GT6 exhaust. It’s still on the standard air filters & box. Still suspect it has ‘a cam’ in it, not least because it completely refuses to come to a civilised idle preferring “rur-rur-rur-rur”, though it’s perfectly tractable straight off idle. Quick and dirty valve lift measure didn’t really back this up though. Need to measure properly. Yes, this has been discussed, along with the great “gear stick vs column switch” debate. Probably will be gear stick (we have that switch though not the stick itself) and it’s the later column and switches so doesn’t really lend itself to a column switch. Though with the logic box a momentary button on the steering wheel would suffice….. I used neither, but fitted a rocker switch to the steering wheel, connected by a length of "curly-whirly" cable, like on a landline phone's handpiece. John 1
Nick Jones Posted February 21 Author Posted February 21 On 2/17/2025 at 8:28 PM, Spit131 said: what is the length of the prop shaft you are after ? Spit 1500 OD is 37” / 0.94m working length according to the CC website. It’s reassembled. Seems to work ok. Though yet to test the OD itself…… I’d forgotten how astonishingly heavy they are. That iron bellhousing is just taking the piss! Was pleased that I was able to find all of the OD related parts as that box with dismantled at least five years ago and the garage is a bit of a tip….. The little top cover closing plate did it’s best to evade capture, but I got him in the end.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now