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Posted
2 hours ago, zetecspit said:

I ran plastic late spit centres on my Toledo with M12 studs. I bored the holes out (Sorry, I can't remember what size) and use std Ford wheel nuts with the built in washers.  Removed the washers using a grinder. All a bit ghetto, but it worked OK.  A better solution may be to turn some wheelnuts down to match the length of the "shank" of the original spit type nuts, obviously it will need to be larger diameter. The plastic centres drilled out to match. Thats the best I can suggest, but requires a lathe. 

shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQbSQOiW_HkeYXUaHEFZb1Wx0V5W0S4rdwVnowzluqCw3-2TWfsyZYRWZgJF0crGAnvV2-AIbPw-Kt4BRWpe3lwWKvMpZwculNYZSig-tZ2WFJQYuezfvH6

Interesting. I have a set of the chromed GT6 centres which complicates opening out the holes. But you are right that the holes will have to be bigger.  Maybe should just use Spitty ones.

  • Like 1
Posted

By some sort of serendipitous synchronicity this month's Courrier mag printed an article on wheel studs for GT6s.

He agrees with me on the 3/8" studs for the steel wheels. :biggrin:

It includes the isue of trying to fit plastic centres with M12 Freelander studs and instead suggesting that if you feel the need to change studs then the TR6 stud/nut combination is quickest, simplest, cheapest and neatest.

A good point about the taper seats.

When there are other Triumph alternatives available out there for steel and alloy wheels in 3/8" and 7/16", going for 12mm studs is a bit of a solution looking for a problem in my opinion.

And in particular changing to 12mm studs to fit steel wheels with plastic centres using faked up nuts and washers is a bodge. Aesthetically and engineering/safety wise. Machining down wheelnuts is non-selective behaviour. A. its a highly critical component and B. worrying about the stud being undersize and then taking material off the nut is not a good thing.

Anyway, here is the page from the Courier
IMG_20241103_0001.thumb.jpg.240a464fd1e838413e19b3f5f6ad6ac3.jpg
 

 

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Posted (edited)

I have Cambridge motorsport book marked for this type of thing.

https://cambridgemotorsport.com/classic-historic/12565-tr2-6-1-longer-wheel-stud.html

as always contemplating the change. But not sure that I want to get involved in opening the axle to fit new longer studs.  So will have to look at the hole in the back plate trick.
my wheel nuts are cap nuts so would need to take the top of them off to allow longer studs. 

Edited by Hamish
Web link
Posted
10 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

the TR6 stud/nut combination is quickest, simplest, cheapest and neatest.

And that's the route I'm heading for, as it also means the GT6 shares commonality with the 2000 when it comes back. The fact I can then also run the plastic centres is likewise a plus point. 

Nicely caught with the Courier article Colin, it arrived here the other day and was sat on the dresser in the hall awaiting my attention. It is now been given my full attention needless to say!

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