JohnD Posted Thursday at 03:02 PM Share Posted Thursday at 03:02 PM Never necessary to pull the hub! Hole- or step-drill an opening in the back plate, pass the new, long stud through that into the empty hub. Seal the hole (if you wish) with a rubber grommet. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Thursday at 04:05 PM Share Posted Thursday at 04:05 PM Braw. Good luck for the MOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted Thursday at 06:15 PM Share Posted Thursday at 06:15 PM Hello Phil I would go for Freelander 12mm x 1.5 when you do the job properly and the nuts are easy to get for alloys Plus you will never break them or strip a thread unless you are a Gorilla ? Roger ps I will sort out one I have and nut for a photo tomorrow if you need it? pps I very slightly shortened mine so I could fit them without removing the hubs at the time(they may come off easy or never!!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted Thursday at 06:30 PM Share Posted Thursday at 06:30 PM 2 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said: Braw. Good luck for the MOT You reckon, Colin? Because it's a 'hole'? Appendix A, Section 4: "You should reject corrosion in prescribed areas if: the corrosion has caused a hole in the metal" Section 6 "Highly stressed components: if corrosion has resulted in serious reduction in the overall thickness of the material or has caused a hole or split." See: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/appendix-a-structural-integrity-and-corrosion My underlines. This hole will have been drilled. Guy I used to race with, and who I shall leave anonymous, was an MoT inspector, and his advice was to drill out a corroded hole, as big as required to skirt the corrosion, if found with no time before an MoT! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted Thursday at 06:55 PM Share Posted Thursday at 06:55 PM 21 minutes ago, JohnD said: his advice was to drill out a corroded hole, as big as required to skirt the corrosion I have successfully used this trick on one occasion (though in two matching spots on opposite sides of the vehicle). Took the opportunity to squirt some Dinitrol in and closed the holes with (quite large) rubber grommets. Mot inspector accused me of cunning… which is fine by me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted Thursday at 07:12 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 07:12 PM 39 minutes ago, JohnD said: You reckon, Colin? Because it's a 'hole'? I may be wrong, but I suspect that Colin's post was aimed at me there John, not a reply to your post! "Braw" in Scots means good, or pleasing. Equivalent of "nice job" as it were 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Thursday at 07:43 PM Share Posted Thursday at 07:43 PM 1 hour ago, JohnD said: You reckon, Colin? Because it's a 'hole'? What hole John? Sorry I am confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted Thursday at 09:12 PM Share Posted Thursday at 09:12 PM (edited) My apologies, Colin. I thought you were being sceptical about my suggested method of installing longer wheel studs. Clearly I was over sensitive! John Edited Thursday at 09:13 PM by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Thursday at 11:52 PM Share Posted Thursday at 11:52 PM 2 hours ago, JohnD said: My apologies, Colin. I thought you were being sceptical about my suggested method of installing longer wheel studs. Clearly I was over sensitive! John Ah ha! No worries John. I would have no issues with a strategically placed hole in the backplate for such an eventuality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted Friday at 08:48 AM Share Posted Friday at 08:48 AM 14 hours ago, rogerguzzi said: Hello Phil I would go for Freelander 12mm x 1.5 when you do the job properly and the nuts are easy to get for alloys Plus you will never break them or strip a thread unless you are a Gorilla ? Roger ps I will sort out one I have and nut for a photo tomorrow if you need it? pps I very slightly shortened mine so I could fit them without removing the hubs at the time(they may come off easy or never!!) What he said! ^ Chunky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted Friday at 09:55 AM Author Share Posted Friday at 09:55 AM Well, passed with no advisories! Got a chance to poke around underneath whilst Ian (MOT tester and garage owner) sorted the paperwork. Watching him try to remember how to use a fly off handbrake was amusing, and we didn't bother doing the rear brake test (due to the LSD), but otherwise he was impressed with the condition. Some photos from underneath (first time I have seen that since I bought it!) I need new roll bar bushes, and track rod end joints are showing their age. Also got an oil leak at the end of the gearbox somewhere, along with one on the engine. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Friday at 10:58 AM Share Posted Friday at 10:58 AM 13 hours ago, JohnD said: My apologies, Colin. I thought you were being sceptical about my suggested method of installing longer wheel studs. Clearly I was over sensitive! John Ah ha! No worries John. I would have no issues with a strategically placed hole in the backplate for such an eventuality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Friday at 11:19 AM Share Posted Friday at 11:19 AM 1 hour ago, thebrookster said: Well, passed with no advisories! Got a chance to poke around underneath whilst Ian (MOT tester and garage owner) sorted the paperwork. Watching him try to remember how to use a fly off handbrake was amusing, and we didn't bother doing the rear brake test (due to the LSD), but otherwise he was impressed with the condition. Some photos from underneath (first time I have seen that since I bought it!) I need new roll bar bushes, and track rod end joints are showing their age. Also got an oil leak at the end of the gearbox somewhere, along with one on the engine. Great result there Phil. And looks pretty decent underneath. Decent anti-roll bar bushes and drop links make a huge difference to the car. Especially the GT6 with that big engine up front. A far better mod for the handling of the rotoflex cars than fitting a thicker swing spring type ARB. My recommendation is to get the hardest polybushes you can for the centre mounts and fit rose joints with rubber boots for the drop links. John Woolfe does a very good kit http://www.wolfitt.com/ but you can make your own with a male/female threaded pair as I did for the Scimitar. Gets rid of all the slop in the system and the makes things a lot sharper on turn-in. Anothing about these is that being adjustable you can tune out any tension in the roll bar as there is always some with the standard rubber ones. Do that while you're fitting your 2.5t GVW Freelander studs to your 1t GVW GT6 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted Friday at 11:24 AM Share Posted Friday at 11:24 AM 2 minutes ago, Escadrille Ecosse said: John Woolfe does a very good kit http://www.wolfitt.com/ but you can make your own with a male/female threaded pair as I did for the Scimitar. Gets rid of all the slop in the system and the makes things a lot sharper on turn-in. Anothing about these is that being adjustable you can tune out any tension in the roll bar as there is always some with the standard rubber ones. I have the Wolfitt kit on my Spitfire, slightly modified though Their version: My version: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted Friday at 11:26 AM Share Posted Friday at 11:26 AM 1 hour ago, thebrookster said: Well, passed with no advisories! Awesome! Congratulations! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted Friday at 02:00 PM Share Posted Friday at 02:00 PM Great result. Nice to get an opportunity to get under it. my mot guy lets me do the same with my 3a check out these guys parts very adaptable I use the 7/8ths arb clamps https://tmrsupplies.co.uk/product-category/suspension/anti-roll-bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Friday at 04:49 PM Share Posted Friday at 04:49 PM 5 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said: I have the Wolfitt kit on my Spitfire, slightly modified though Their version: My version: Much neater . Did something similar myself 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted Friday at 06:29 PM Share Posted Friday at 06:29 PM 7 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said: Awesome! Congratulations! What he says. Looks pretty decent underneath. Time for a good wash off and spraying with a clear underbody wax? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimBancroft Posted Saturday at 07:10 AM Share Posted Saturday at 07:10 AM Phil, I must echo the comments about Jon Wolfe's arb fittings, well worth it. Especially as the std arb fittings on the market are not that good. How is the joint between the rear vertical link and the lower wishbone? Its great to see this car being looked after. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted Saturday at 06:48 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:48 PM I have no doubt that Jon Wolfe's drop links are excellent! But it's so simple to DiY! Many ways, all involving two spherical joints (AKA Heims, rod ends). With male and female threaded ends, both male with a short threaded tube between, and lock nuts: Or, to be fancy, female joints with left and right handed thread, Cut appropriate treads in some rod, and weld a nut in the middle for infinite adjustment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted Saturday at 06:53 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:53 PM (edited) 7 minutes ago, JohnD said: I have no doubt that Jon Wolfe's drop links are excellent! But it's so simple to DiY! Many ways, all involving two spherical joints (AKA Heims, rod ends). With male and female threaded ends, both male with a short threaded tube between, and lock nuts: Or, to be fancy, female joints with left and right handed thread, Cut appropriate treads in some rod, and weld a nut in the middle for infinite adjustment! What I said in my original post John, a couple of pairs of Rose joints will do. Postage from the US is excessive for Heim joints. And as I said add rubber boots to make them last. Edited Saturday at 06:56 PM by Escadrille Ecosse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted Saturday at 10:05 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 10:05 PM Plenty things to plan out guys, thanking you! I think I will be going the Freelander stud route, or at the very least replacing all the studs. I see Colin's point about the originals lasting, however I am also mindful that I snapped one without too much effort! My main concern is I run the plastic centres with the steel wheels, and I would need to find wheel nuts that work with the washers setup they require. ARB - wether I go for the Wolfe setup or make my own as suggested will depend on my garage being finished. Jon Wolfe's links have the advantage of being ready to fit, which if I am working in the elements has it's desirable points! Cleaning the underbody - I agree with you Nick, but I may chicken out and pay some daft bugger to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted Saturday at 10:39 PM Share Posted Saturday at 10:39 PM 31 minutes ago, thebrookster said: My main concern is I run the plastic centres with the steel wheels, and I would need to find wheel nuts that work with the washers setup they require. Yes, this is a problem I’ve yet to solve. Bear in mind that you can also get 7/16 UNF studs that fit in various lengths which gives the option of TR6 wheel nuts. Not sure if that actually helps but an idea to explore…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted Sunday at 07:40 AM Share Posted Sunday at 07:40 AM (edited) 9 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Yes, this is a problem I’ve yet to solve. Bear in mind that you can also get 7/16 UNF studs that fit in various lengths which gives the option of TR6 wheel nuts. Not sure if that actually helps but an idea to explore…. I ran plastic late spit centres on my Toledo with M12 studs. I bored the holes out (Sorry, I can't remember what size) and use std Ford wheel nuts with the built in washers. Removed the washers using a grinder. All a bit ghetto, but it worked OK. A better solution may be to turn some wheelnuts down to match the length of the "shank" of the original spit type nuts, obviously it will need to be larger diameter. The plastic centres drilled out to match. Thats the best I can suggest, but requires a lathe. Edited Sunday at 07:57 AM by zetecspit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted Sunday at 08:57 AM Share Posted Sunday at 08:57 AM I've yet to test my planned solution, but I'm going to try stumpy little ford steel wheel nuts, then a short plastic nut with a broad washer base to hold the plastic centre. House move has delayed all cat related activities for about 12 months though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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