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Triumph GT6 Mk2


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Hello Phil

                I would go for Freelander 12mm x 1.5  when you do the job properly and the nuts are easy to get for alloys 

Plus you will never break them or strip a thread unless you are a Gorilla ?

Roger

ps I will sort out one I have and nut for a photo tomorrow if you need it?

pps I very slightly shortened mine so I could fit them without removing the hubs at the time(they may come off easy or never!!) 

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2 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Braw.

Good luck for the MOT

You reckon, Colin?  Because it's a 'hole'?

Appendix A, Section  4: "You should reject corrosion in prescribed areas if: the corrosion has caused a hole in the metal" 

Section 6 "Highly stressed components:  if corrosion has resulted in serious reduction in the overall thickness of the material or has caused a hole or split."

See: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/appendix-a-structural-integrity-and-corrosion

My underlines. This hole will have been drilled.    Guy I used to race with, and who I shall leave anonymous, was an MoT inspector, and his advice was to drill out a corroded hole, as big as required to skirt the corrosion, if found with no time before an MoT!

John

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21 minutes ago, JohnD said:

his advice was to drill out a corroded hole, as big as required to skirt the corrosion

I have successfully used this trick on one occasion (though in two matching spots on opposite sides of the vehicle). Took the opportunity to squirt some Dinitrol in and closed the holes with (quite large) rubber grommets. Mot inspector accused me of cunning… which is fine by me :smile:

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14 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Phil

                I would go for Freelander 12mm x 1.5  when you do the job properly and the nuts are easy to get for alloys 

Plus you will never break them or strip a thread unless you are a Gorilla ?

Roger

ps I will sort out one I have and nut for a photo tomorrow if you need it?

pps I very slightly shortened mine so I could fit them without removing the hubs at the time(they may come off easy or never!!) 

What he said! ^

Chunky!

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Well, passed with no advisories!

Got a chance to poke around underneath whilst Ian (MOT tester and garage owner) sorted the paperwork. Watching him try to remember how to use a fly off handbrake was amusing, and we didn't bother doing the rear brake test (due to the LSD), but otherwise he was impressed with the condition.

Some photos from underneath (first time I have seen that since I bought it!)

I need new roll bar bushes, and track rod end joints are showing their age. Also got an oil leak at the end of the gearbox somewhere, along with one on the engine.

 

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1 hour ago, thebrookster said:

Well, passed with no advisories!

Got a chance to poke around underneath whilst Ian (MOT tester and garage owner) sorted the paperwork. Watching him try to remember how to use a fly off handbrake was amusing, and we didn't bother doing the rear brake test (due to the LSD), but otherwise he was impressed with the condition.

Some photos from underneath (first time I have seen that since I bought it!)

I need new roll bar bushes, and track rod end joints are showing their age. Also got an oil leak at the end of the gearbox somewhere, along with one on the engine.

Great result there Phil.

And looks pretty decent underneath.

Decent anti-roll bar bushes and drop links make a huge difference to the car. Especially the GT6 with that big engine up front. A far better mod for the handling of the rotoflex cars than fitting a thicker swing spring type ARB.

My recommendation is to get the hardest polybushes you can for the centre mounts and fit rose joints with rubber boots for the drop links.

John Woolfe does a very good kit http://www.wolfitt.com/ but you can make your own with a male/female threaded pair as I did for the Scimitar. Gets rid of all the slop in the system and the makes things a lot sharper on turn-in. Anothing about these is that being adjustable you can tune out any tension in the roll bar as there is always some with the standard rubber ones.

Do that while you're fitting your 2.5t GVW Freelander studs to your 1t GVW GT6 :tongue:.

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2 minutes ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

John Woolfe does a very good kit http://www.wolfitt.com/ but you can make your own with a male/female threaded pair as I did for the Scimitar. Gets rid of all the slop in the system and the makes things a lot sharper on turn-in. Anothing about these is that being adjustable you can tune out any tension in the roll bar as there is always some with the standard rubber ones.

I have the Wolfitt kit on my Spitfire, slightly modified though

Their version:

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My version:

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I have no doubt that Jon Wolfe's drop links are excellent!

But it's so simple to DiY!   Many ways, all involving two spherical joints (AKA Heims, rod ends).  With male and female threaded ends, both male with a short threaded tube between, and lock nuts:

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Or, to be fancy,  female joints with left and right handed thread,    Cut appropriate treads in some rod, and weld a nut in the middle for infinite adjustment!

drop-link1.thumb.jpg.07de4276348e7cee933fa37182d9bfef.jpg

 

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7 minutes ago, JohnD said:

I have no doubt that Jon Wolfe's drop links are excellent!

But it's so simple to DiY!   Many ways, all involving two spherical joints (AKA Heims, rod ends).  With male and female threaded ends, both male with a short threaded tube between, and lock nuts:

drop-link2.thumb.jpg.749a1ee8c339825fcb1c5129e918e3a3.jpg

Or, to be fancy,  female joints with left and right handed thread,    Cut appropriate treads in some rod, and weld a nut in the middle for infinite adjustment!

drop-link1.thumb.jpg.07de4276348e7cee933fa37182d9bfef.jpg

 

What I said in my original post John, a couple of pairs of Rose joints will do. Postage from the US is excessive for Heim joints.

And as I said add rubber boots to make them last.

Edited by Escadrille Ecosse
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Plenty things to plan out guys, thanking you! I think I will be going the Freelander stud route, or at the very least replacing all the studs. I see Colin's point about the originals lasting, however I am also mindful that I snapped one without too much effort!

My main concern is I run the plastic centres with the steel wheels, and I would need to find wheel nuts that work with the washers setup they require.

ARB - wether I go for the Wolfe setup or make my own as suggested will depend on my garage being finished. Jon Wolfe's links have the advantage of being ready to fit, which if I am working in the elements has it's desirable points!

Cleaning the underbody -  I agree with you Nick, but I may chicken out and pay some daft bugger to do it :whistling:

 

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31 minutes ago, thebrookster said:

My main concern is I run the plastic centres with the steel wheels, and I would need to find wheel nuts that work with the washers setup they require.

Yes, this is a problem I’ve yet to solve. Bear in mind that you can also get 7/16 UNF studs that fit in various lengths which gives the option of TR6 wheel nuts. Not sure if that actually helps but an idea to explore….

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9 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Yes, this is a problem I’ve yet to solve. Bear in mind that you can also get 7/16 UNF studs that fit in various lengths which gives the option of TR6 wheel nuts. Not sure if that actually helps but an idea to explore….

I ran plastic late spit centres on my Toledo with M12 studs. I bored the holes out (Sorry, I can't remember what size) and use std Ford wheel nuts with the built in washers.  Removed the washers using a grinder. All a bit ghetto, but it worked OK.  A better solution may be to turn some wheelnuts down to match the length of the "shank" of the original spit type nuts, obviously it will need to be larger diameter. The plastic centres drilled out to match. Thats the best I can suggest, but requires a lathe. 

shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQbSQOiW_HkeYXUaHEFZb1Wx0V5W0S4rdwVnowzluqCw3-2TWfsyZYRWZgJF0crGAnvV2-AIbPw-Kt4BRWpe3lwWKvMpZwculNYZSig-tZ2WFJQYuezfvH6

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