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Triumph GT6 Mk2


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27 minutes ago, zetecspit said:

Thesedays I use a hefty earth strap direct from the battery to the engine. As well as the std one to the body. Seems to have fixed all those old earth issues that used to crop up. 

Besides, the number of time I went to pull an engine out, to be foiled by that flippin braided chassis to engine lead under the rack.....

You know, I was wondering if that might not be a good idea earlier on. If it works for you, then methinks I shall copy the idea :whistling:

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12 minutes ago, thebrookster said:

Those who run GT6's, is it worth swapping out the HS4's for HS6's, and what benefits would that give me? I have a set of HS6's I might be able to lay my hands on.........

Possibly is the answer. Others may have more experienced views, but mine is that the 1 1/2" carbs are adequate. The HS6s may give a tad more at high rpm (assuming flowed head/big cam), but sacrificing a bit of low down response. 

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10 minutes ago, zetecspit said:

Possibly is the answer. Others may have more experienced views, but mine is that the 1 1/2" carbs are adequate. The HS6s may give a tad more at high rpm (assuming flowed head/big cam), but sacrificing a bit of low down response. 

That's what I was wondering. I think for the time being HS4's will be kept, Nuala certainly never struggled winning rallies with them! Although she did have a pair sat in the garage, so maybe she was finding the limits? I guess I'll not be driving at her standard for a while at least, being optimistic :biggrin:

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18 minutes ago, thebrookster said:

That's what I was wondering. I think for the time being HS4's will be kept, Nuala certainly never struggled winning rallies with them! Although she did have a pair sat in the garage, so maybe she was finding the limits? I guess I'll not be driving at her standard for a while at least, being optimistic :biggrin:

I think it depends on driving style. I know Dave Langrick has changed from PI on his 2.5 spit to a pait of Stromberg 150s, and love them. He reckons that runs out of puff at 5k, but is silky smooth and torquey up to that. A local has recently fitted a 2.5 engine into his 2000 saloon, and gitted 1 1/2" SUs (which were fitted to some variants of 2.5 I think?) and he loves them. So on a 2 litre, you should be fine. 

You are best doing as you suggest, see how things pan out once you have got the car sorted and used for some proper driving. Easy enough to swap and compare.

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What Clive says on the earth straps.

Also agree on the carb comments. If you look back through Alan Oldtuckunders essays on getting the last few horses out of 150CDs (HS4s can be considered pretty much identical), he discovered that they run out of flow at about 120 bhp 5,500 rpm (depends a bit on your cam and resulting torque curve). Going to 175s definitely increased his rev range. Don’t remember what he said about the bottom end, but he wasn’t much bothered below 3k anyway. That car went pretty damn well when I drove it at CC.

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11 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

, but he wasn’t much bothered below 3k anyway. That car went pretty damn well when I drove it at CC.

Ain’t that the truth. He had a big Rev range too. I remember discussing in the paddock I had twice as many gear changes as him at Curborough. A very good driver and a nice man - who helped me enormously when I first started in the championship in 2017.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I was going through the parts boxes I brought back from Nuala's, turns out I already own a set of HS6 carbs and manifold, so I have that in hand if I go down that particular route. I'm not sure, but I also have various of Alan's carbs etc, although they are Stromberg's.

Still waiting for tyres to arrive, they are coming from Europe so bloody Brexit is having its effect. First parcel arrives today (although it's a DPD delivery so I'll not hold my breath). Made a start tarting up the rims for the winter tyres, quick clean/degreaser then a spray with a silver wheel paint. Nothing fancy, essentially a mutton in lambs clothing job :biggrin:

IMG20241025111147.thumb.jpg.5e786ef26ae7ef3962aba01fa5bc6731.jpgIMG20241025111156.thumb.jpg.db2ec1a0dbf933880107b959be2cb093.jpg

Before.

IMG20241025111212.thumb.jpg.d6f244024a4b9632032de4e948d9d8ac.jpg

After.

I have also made a start on the various bonnet blemishes. These had been repaired from the inside, so a good attack with a paint stripping disc (the honeycomb style) I quickly got back to decent metal! Then the mist came in, so stopped after applying a rust converter.

IMG20241025104418.thumb.jpg.7f8ff4b241f3f37305fb10e929b5131a.jpg

A tad too much pressure in the middle, started getting warm!

IMG20241025104411.thumb.jpg.c33b0dea7eb1e397dd1349269e5a4ab8.jpg

The RH one is the worst offender, I guess a piece of metal has been welded in underneath but the original damage left in place. It's ground flat, so a good dosing with rust converter and some filler should suffice, I hope. I'll be honest, bodywork is not really my thing, so kinda winging it here :huh:

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2 hours ago, thebrookster said:

Well, I was going through the parts boxes I brought back from Nuala's, turns out I already own a set of HS6 carbs and manifold, so I have that in hand if I go down that particular route. I'm not sure, but I also have various of Alan's carbs etc, although they are Stromberg's.

Still waiting for tyres to arrive, they are coming from Europe so bloody Brexit is having its effect. First parcel arrives today (although it's a DPD delivery so I'll not hold my breath). Made a start tarting up the rims for the winter tyres, quick clean/degreaser then a spray with a silver wheel paint. Nothing fancy, essentially a mutton in lambs clothing job :biggrin:

IMG20241025111147.thumb.jpg.5e786ef26ae7ef3962aba01fa5bc6731.jpgIMG20241025111156.thumb.jpg.db2ec1a0dbf933880107b959be2cb093.jpg

Before.

IMG20241025111212.thumb.jpg.d6f244024a4b9632032de4e948d9d8ac.jpg

After.

I have also made a start on the various bonnet blemishes. These had been repaired from the inside, so a good attack with a paint stripping disc (the honeycomb style) I quickly got back to decent metal! Then the mist came in, so stopped after applying a rust converter.

IMG20241025104418.thumb.jpg.7f8ff4b241f3f37305fb10e929b5131a.jpg

A tad too much pressure in the middle, started getting warm!

IMG20241025104411.thumb.jpg.c33b0dea7eb1e397dd1349269e5a4ab8.jpg

The RH one is the worst offender, I guess a piece of metal has been welded in underneath but the original damage left in place. It's ground flat, so a good dosing with rust converter and some filler should suffice, I hope. I'll be honest, bodywork is not really my thing, so kinda winging it here :huh:

Phil, have you tried acrylic stopper? Super fine, 1K so just air dries but must be put on thin. Ideal for these sorts of touch-ups.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404746231433

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43 minutes ago, thebrookster said:

I can't say that I have, Clive.

2 tubes winging my way as we speak however, I'm not short of touch-ups on the old lass!

I find the stuff is invaluable for spot repairs when spraying. Doesn't take long to go off, and unlike celly stopper it doesn't "roll" out of the repair when you flat it back. Nor does it sink once dry. 

A credit card is the ideal applicator, nice thin layers. 

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Oh balls, and bollocks.

Got the first set of new tyres in, sprayed the wheels with some silver wheel paint and dropped them off at the local tyre place to be fitted. Which they did, along with cleaning the insides of the rims and painting them.

Brought them home this afternoon, and started fitting them. Got to the third wheel and snapped a wheel stud.

So now I have to a) cancel the MOT that was booked for Friday, and b) strip a hub (rear) to replace the stud.

I'm thinking about upgrading the studs, if I recall correctly the upgrade is Freelander studs? And if I do this, anyone tell me where I can find new wheel nuts?

I suspect (no photos as it was dark) that the studs are longer, maybe for the alloys? 

If anyone has some pearls of wisdom, I'll take them gratefully!

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Phil

I have some standard studs I can give you.

Pretty sure it is possible to fit these on the rotoflex without dismantling the hubs.

Replacing with bigger/longer studs is a strip down job.

I realise this is considered slightly heretical but I have never managed to break a standard stud which are in my opinion perfectly adequate for steel wheels.

Always use a torque wrench on them 42lb/ft.

If you want let me know you can pop round

Colin

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1 hour ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Phil

I have some standard studs I can give you.

Pretty sure it is possible to fit these on the rotoflex without dismantling the hubs.

Replacing with bigger/longer studs is a strip down job.

I realise this is considered slightly heretical but I have never managed to break a standard stud which are in my opinion perfectly adequate for steel wheels.

Always use a torque wrench on them 42lb/ft.

If you want let me know you can pop round

Colin

Many thanks for the offer, Colin! However I do have a selection of studs (new) that Lei gave me when he gave me the wheels.

As I mentioned above, I suspect I have longer studs already fitted although I unfortunately don't have a convenient hole in the backing plate!

I'm thinking if I manage to finish my course early enough (I'm on a MAN engine course for the electronic engines in Clydebank right now) I may try and sort the stud in the afternoon and possibly still make the MOT!

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19 minutes ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

PS. Also got the 'proper' hub puller if necessary.

You mean one of these?

IMG20241030211916.thumb.jpg.57359152efea8de6917ace64c845d871.jpg

IMG20241030211931.thumb.jpg.4952c75473ab311112f601d58bdc128a.jpg

The one on the left is the main article, however out of interest can anyone identify what the tool on the right is? 

I got them both with the GT6, Nuala had them although I'm not sure she used them herself.

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23 minutes ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Not entirely sure what the other, thinner one is for.

It is the same PCD, and the flange is the same thickness. I wonder if it is an alternate style maybe? Although the additional holes have me confused.

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Maybe this sheds some light? Spotted it at the bottom of the box, having not done this job before I'm none the wiser, but maybe some of you more learned folks will understand it?

IMG20241030215506.thumb.jpg.620e2c9608f1c0d11644b02bf9f215f6.jpg

Edit: Yup, did a wee Google on Ian Fittings and found this:

Screenshot_2024-10-30-22-00-59-30_f598e1360c96b5a5aa16536c303cff92.thumb.jpg.37b5ab0f82928f59766167f36b6a4006.jpg

And if I had waited, I see that Clive would quite likely have been along and explained it all, he seems to pop up as a pretty regular advocate for Ian and his pullers :biggrin:

Edited by thebrookster
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Well, issue solved (or at least cause found).

IMG20241031142608.thumb.jpg.46d6b7f85b9399978dd5c1f23a84e142.jpg

IMG20241031142613.thumb.jpg.44050573176b15896c99c692b701ed25.jpg

My studs are significantly longer than original. Presumably due to running alloys.

Unfortunately I appear to have multiple sizes of wheel nut, which all look identical but have differing amounts of thread available inside!

Nuala obviously was aware of this as she had kept four in the spare wheel well that fit the longer studs, unfortunately I had forgotten (this is awakening memories from several years ago) when I collected the car so I never thought to check this when I collected it (as I suspect there may be a box of suitable nuts sat in her old garage.

All is not lost, I have 2 heralds sat here that can donate some small open end lug nuts which will at least get me through an MOT and I can order some new nuts (and a replacement long stud).

Colin was quite correct, I can indeed fit the normal length stud without having to pull the hub at least.

IMG20241031145641.thumb.jpg.39435ca682c31ad3fc5ec752634f2ba1.jpg

So onwards to a (hopefully successful) MOT tomorrow morning!

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