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Windscreen Wiper Rack


rogerguzzi

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Hello All

             Spitty's wipers get very slow at times and juddery! (they seem ok when not on the windscreen? so hoping it is the motor needing a good clean and fresh grease etc!)

I going to remove the motor tomorrow for a check up.

I was wondering if you remove the wiper arms can you pull the rack out for cleaning and a bit of fresh grease?

I do not want to take the wheelboxes off because as far as I can see I would have to get behind the dashboard and that is a lot of trouble!

Roger

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43 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

I was wondering if you remove the wiper arms can you pull the rack out for cleaning and a bit of fresh grease?

Yes you can Roger. And worth running the clean cable in and out a few times and use it to extract as much of the old dried out grease as possible before you put any new in.

Same thing with the motor gear box too.

And with it all apart check that the wheelboxes turn freely as well since they can sometime get a bit gummed up in the spindles.

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What Colin says.

Also, if you mark the starting position of the spindles and aim for 180 deg different when reassembling. That way you should be running on unworn gear teeth (unless some PO has beaten you to it) and get a bit less backlash.

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Hello All

              Thank's for the advice(it makes the subs well worth it!)

 I removed the rack and wash it and run up and down lots of times and a few squirts of WD type stuff (but cheap one!)

I removed the the nearside wheel box and cleaned and lubed squirted the offside one with the cheap stuff 

It all ran very free then so lubed the rack with steering box oil but that made is tighter so wiped that off and used engine oil and it all move nice again(triumph say less than 6lbs pull to move it this is about 2 to 3lbs now!)

I turned the wheel boxes 180 and the rack!

I have ordered a brush set as they are about half worn(original Lucas?)

What grease to use in the motor gear they say Ragosine Listate Grease? 

I thought some of the lithum type I use in the UJ's? and not to much! (its high temperature as well)

We do not use the wipers that much as we go out on dry days mostly(just when touring)

Roger

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Hi Roger,

you do not need a high temp grease as such - as it doesn't get hot.

You need a low temp grease to stay free moving when when cold.   

High temp grease can get quite thick when cold and this will slow the system down. 

I do not know what Ragosine grease is but I would assume it is a low temp grease.

 

Roger

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Hello Roger

                   Having looked up the spec of the lithium grease I have it does not say high temperature they say for high load bearing and shock loads and suspension use and it has grafite in it and seems quite soft  

Roger

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1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello All

              This all getting a bit high tech now? Ha Ha

This is the grease I use all over Spitty

Roger

PRODUCTINFOLithiumEPMGrease.pdf 422.59 kB · 2 downloads

Triumph specified Ragosine Listate Grease back in the day. This is a old military spec grease (for those of us who are familiar with DEFSTANS and MILSPECS).

Anyway. It's unavailble now, seems to have had a lead content.

If you Google Ragosine Listate there are pages and pages of people getting their knickers in a twist about the specific grease to use in there wiper motors and racks.

All a bit how many angels can dance on the head of pin stuff.

Roger, use you standard general purpose high pressure (EPM) lithium grease. It's done fine for me since I first did this job about 40 years ago and will certainly do Spitty fine too :thumbsup:

 

Edited by Escadrille Ecosse
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Hello All

              Why don't I read all the Triumph manual specs before ordering parts????

The Manual says replace the brush set when the 2 brushes are down to 3mm and the high speed brush has worn the step away!

Rowlocks mine are well within specs!! now I have a dilemma do I fit the new ones (when they arrive? ((repro Lucas)) our refit the genuine Lucas ones that are a bit worn?)

Double Rowlocks that's another £18.45 probably wasted that's 3 bottles of Vino(Shipped direct from Italy!!!!)

Roger

ps this was John wasting 20 rupees as the train was moving off(that was for 2 cups of chai) and had to throw them away!

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Ah!   Electric motor brushes!

My old Bosch drill is ?30 years old, and was 'lent' to me in the first place.  GoK how old it really is.

And it failed the other day.  Briefly ran lumpenly, and then failed, like an old broken down horse.     I was looking up a new drill, when I thought to check it's internals.  And the brushes were right down, almost to the springs behind them.    I was most surprised to find that new sets were available online, and in a few days, my drill was like new !   You CAN fix it, sometimes!

John

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To Follow on from Roger & JohnD's brushes - My Henry Vacuum cleaner was not happy when turned on. It nearly worked but not quite.

So, disassemble it to find that the mains switch had a Suppressor across it. The capacitor had exploded slightly.

I looked on line for a replacement - anything from £11 to £20  for a 1M resistor and 0.22uF cap  wow.

I popped along to me local Henry repair shop and asked if he could sell me the suppressor.  In an Engleesh version of a foreign language the repair man asked me what a suppressor was !!!   He is supposedly the qualified repairman asking basic questions.  Anyway he didn't.

So, Onto RS Components, ordered the parts (5 x Capacitor & 10 x Resistor)   for less than £10) collect the following day.  Sucking that afternoon.

If anybody needs a Henry suppressor just ask.

Roger

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, RogerH said:

To Follow on from Roger & JohnD's brushes - My Henry Vacuum cleaner was not happy when turned on. It nearly worked but not quite.

So, disassemble it to find that the mains switch had a Suppressor across it. The capacitor had exploded slightly.

I looked on line for a replacement - anything from £11 to £20  for a 1M resistor and 0.22uF cap  wow.

I popped along to me local Henry repair shop and asked if he could sell me the suppressor.  In an Engleesh version of a foreign language the repair man asked me what a suppressor was !!!   He is supposedly the qualified repairman asking basic questions.  Anyway he didn't.

So, Onto RS Components, ordered the parts (5 x Capacitor & 10 x Resistor)   for less than £10) collect the following day.  Sucking that afternoon.

If anybody needs a Henry suppressor just ask.

Roger

 

 

 

All very satisfying :thumbsup:

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Hello All

              Does anyone know what the spring pressure should be at the wiper arm tip with no blade on and upright?

I found that if I grip the drivers side wheel box spindle between finger and thumb I can turn it both ways! 

So must be as free as it can be?

Roger

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Sounds like you’ve been very successful with the rack overhaul.

I’m afraid I’ve no idea what the arm spring pressure should be - think you might struggle with that.

One tip for juddery wipers though; if the judder always occurs either on the upstroke or downstroke, check that the wiper arm is holding the blade perpendicular to the screen at the midpoint of the arc and twist is (carefully!) to correct if not. This can be astonishingly effective. 
Note that judder on the upstroke can also be the result of the blades being old and hard and taking a set from their parked position. This often resolves when they’ve be running for a while.

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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

One tip for juddery wipers though; if the judder always occurs either on the upstroke or downstroke, check that the wiper arm is holding the blade perpendicular to the screen at the midpoint of the arc and twist is (carefully!) to correct if not. This can be astonishingly effective. 

Most effective in my experience.

9 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Does anyone know what the spring pressure should be at the wiper arm tip with no blade on and upright?

Can't help with that either. Basically enough to keep the wipers on the screen at reasonable* speeds.

Note that without blades the tip pressure is relatively low.

An effective way of increasing the tip pressure is to bend the arms in a gentle curve when viewed from the side as this has the effect of extending the spring and so increasing the tension on the arm.

*for any chosen value of 'reasonable' :cool:

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12 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Most effective in my experience.

Can't help with that either. Basically enough to keep the wipers on the screen at reasonable* speeds.

Note that without blades the tip pressure is relatively low.

An effective way of increasing the tip pressure is to bend the arms in a gentle curve when viewed from the side as this has the effect of extending the spring and so increasing the tension on the arm.

*for any chosen value of 'reasonable' :cool:

Thats what my dad used to do in his SP250 Daimlers and they had very old style and short wiper arms.

and they very often met nicks criteria of reasonable i seem to remember.

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Hello All

                Just for your information I tested the spring pressure today but put my digital scales flat on the windscreen and zero'd and lowered the arms onto it ?

Both came out at 12.5oz or 350grams as near as dam it?

So no idea if that is right or not but they are both the same!

Roger

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Regarding the blade orientation - they are dragged across the screen and thus can't  in to judder.

I always thought that they where pushed across the screen like an ice/frost scrapper - but no.

 

Roger

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