Burtons never answered my email regards cost and availability of an alloy bell housing to fit my ex-Merkur T9 box to a Kent 1600.
Today I slapped the Merkur bell against the back of my newly acquired Kent block.
4 of 6 holes do line up just fine including the two dowels.
So only the top pair need to be lowered.
Thinking of a couple of ways to fix that.
For one I could weld in an aluminum bar lower down where it is needed and then cut away the unneeded uppermost portion of the Merkur bell.
Or I could mill away part of the upper bell and fit a simple flat adapter plate up top?
This probably has less risk of warping.
I've been warned that the Merkur input is longer than the regular "E" box.
I measure 1.23" from the end of the crank to the back of the Kent block.
Anyone know what that distance would be for a 2.3?
If I really do need more depth due to a longer input shaft perhaps a full diameter adapter can be made from flat plate.
I have CNC tools, wonder if this would be of use to anyone else once I get it figured out?