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thegave

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Everything posted by thegave

  1. Pains me to do this but I need money so I am selling my DHLA40 non-emission 4-progs which were completely stripped, cleaned and rebuilt by JRS just before Christmas. They have not been fitted to any vehicle or run since I received them back, and I've only taken them out of the packaging twice to enjoy the petrol smell (Mike ran a fuel test at JRS before returning them) They are 4-hole progression type with the following spec: Chokes 31mm NEW Mains 125 NEW Airs 170 NEW Tubes 7772.7 Pumps 35/40 NEW Aux venturis (Holders?) 7848.3 NEW Idle air bleed jets 7850.6 NEW Most of which are new. Also included in the work were new throttle shafts and bearings. I can either scan the letter Mike wrote for me detailing the rebuild or I can just forward the emails between us, which I think would probably just be easier. If you're desperate for pictures I can put them up but I'm sure you're all thoroughly familiar with what DHLA's look like. They look like that, but quite clean. I'm going to list them for 450GBP which includes packing and post to your door but I will entertain any reasonable offers. I think this represents fairly good value as the rebuild alone cost in excess of 500. I think these are the closest you can get to brand new, unused Dellortos that work exactly as they should. Not to mention non-emissions are a pig to find. It would probably be best to email me, as I don't visit very often (novelty of carbs has worn off on me ) gav225 at gmail dot com Cheers, Gavin PS: AHhahahhaha sweet Mike documented the rebuild so if you want pics they start from here: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Pickygit/CarCarburettorsWeberAndDellorto#5398118694601493682 and go two more to the right.
  2. No it's not retrofitment the old Filter King element was just disgusting so I removed it. Still have the spring but wasn't aware of any washer... How important is that? So George, are you recommending using both filters? The inline one is a cheap Halford's job sounds like yours, John, but is smaller than a Kinder egg capsule and still looks quite clean after 7 or 8 months (the filter is still bright yellow and not dull and rusty colored).
  3. I currently have a small inline filter before the pump. My fuel pressure regulator is a Filter King bowl designed to take a much larger filter but it's currently empty as the old filter was old and horrible and probably full of crap. Is it better to keep it like this or should I remove the small inline filter and put a new filter in the pressure reg bowl, which is after the pump?
  4. I uh... Can't work out where it is from your pis... =(
  5. The dodgy ebay set I picked up was meant to be equipped with new Viton valves. Considering the floats were also setup correctly I'm very much tempted to stick with them rather than use the decent set I got from Dellorto.co.uk.
  6. How do you tell the difference between Viton needles and regular ones?
  7. The plastic plates are better? I got all genuine bits off fastroadcars.co.uk. Haven't even bothered opening the packet since I don't have the carbs or manifold back yet. I just couldn't work out how the washers would help dampen vibration if they were at the end of the stud furthest from the manifold but I guess it makes sense. It was especially hard for me to work out considering my previous carbs were bolted solid to the manifold. But now I get there's meant to be a bit of play between the two. Did you change your name, Dave?
  8. Hi everyone, Back for more advice. I'm going to be mounting my new DHLA's to the manifold shortly and I'm a little confused as to the best way to do it. As I understand it there are two types of washers you can use, "Thackarey washers", or "Cosworth mounts". Which type of washer is better and where should they go? I assume Misab plates are the best to go between the carbs and manifold, but does it go MANIFOLD - WASHER - MISAB PLATE - CARB or MANIFOLD - MISAB PLATE - CARB - WASHER? The first way doesn't seem to make much sense because then there would be a gap between the carbs and manifold, and the Misab plate wouldn't be able to seal it properly. But the second way doesn't seem to allow the washer to isolate the carbs from engine vibrations. For what it's worth I have a solid front engine mount and lumpy cam, so I would imagine engine vibration is fairly bad. I've read that Thackeray washers should go on the bottom and Cosworth mounts on top, can anyone comment on the validity? Cheers
  9. Well I'm building a road car so unfortunately longevity is a fairly important concern, which I suppose will come at the cost of slightly restricted induction. 14" is huuge, would've thought it would bring peak power a bit lower thank 6k. So in any case, I should focus more on width than length? It'll be interesting trying to match super-wide hoses to the carb inlets
  10. Thanks for the analogy. Well not the end of the world... I'll just have the curved horn part of the trumpets lopped off the stack, fix the hose to the stack and then fit the horns back on to the end of the stack.. Somehow. Yeesh. On a less related note, it is generally agreed that longer stacks provide more torque lower down the rev range compared to shorter ones, yes?
  11. So having a filter clamped straight onto the end of the hose (as in the picture) still wouldn't be as good as having the flared horn? What sort of difference are we talking about though, and why?
  12. On a semi-related note, is there much between running trumpets that are tapered/flared and say a simple length of hose with a filter stuck on the end, kind of like the one below? I saw it and thought it would be a good idea for a)lengthing the "trumpets"/rampipes, as I'm fairly space limited so need something that bends b)moving the intake source away from the top of the exhaust manifold and towards a cooler area of the engine bay with more airflow Will the pipe kill airflow because it's not tapered like the trumpets or is it more to do with the bell shaped lip?
  13. Damnit. I might as well bite the bullet and have the 4-hole progression non-emissions with the dodgy throttle spindle and bearings overhauled, right? The only other non-emissions I've been able to find so far are these and for 250 with no guarantee of their condition... I only paid 120 for the other set.
  14. How useful are these and are they worth the extra US$37 it costs to get a pair of DHLA's with them fitted compared to ones with I guess fixed idle air bleed jets? How do these look, reputable/reliable or dodgy? Cheers
  15. Hey Dave, any chance you could supply the shafts and bearings for less than 100?
  16. I don't trust eBay, they all look basically new. The pair I got with the dodgy throttle shaft bearings were advertised as fully serviced and rebuilt...
  17. Where? Would you mind listing some in the "Recommend a specailist" thread?
  18. Well there's no guarantee the 200 pound set will actually be any better than the cheaper set, not that cost was a motivating factor to begin with; non-emissions DHLA's just seem to be hard to find! I'm going to have them re-jetted on a dyno anyway but the guy will inevitably solder and redrill the existing jets so I'd like to have the carbs at least approximately roughly setup so I can drive it to the dyno to be jetted properly. Unless you can buy little variety cases with a mixture of jets that I can bring to the dyno for him to try. No dyno seems to stock Dellorto jets or want to tune them. I am actually this close to giving up with carbs entirely...
  19. Preferably 3-hole progression, for some reason. Not too bothered about condition or jets since I'm sending them to be rebuilt anyway, as long as they can be revived with a simple strip, clean and rebuild. If you're in a financial tight spot or just want them out of the way I could be your saviour. Email me gav225 at gmail dot com cheers, Gavin
  20. It's a 8v 1.6L engine. Current 40F's are running 32mm and I have this big torque hole at 3000rpm which was suggested could be due to oversized chokes. Now Mike (from JRS) wants me to give him a full spec to build to (because I want smaller chokes) and I have no idea... I would've thought the experts that get paid would be able to suggest a suitable setup =\ Another problem has popped up with the new non-emissions: He thinks £100 to fix the shaft issue with replacements. Any idea if the cleaning and rebuild will work? Also the carbs are 4-hole progression, which aren't as good as 3. What's the difference?
  21. Hey so I got a pair of DHLA 40 (non-emissions) carbs. The guy rebuilding them (JRS) recommended the following setup: Chokes 34 Mains 145 Airs 190 Tubes 7772.5 Idles 55 Holders 7850.1 Pumps 42 The engine is a 1.6L EZ block, ported/polished 1.8L PB head, TSR 268/272' cam, stainless 4-1 header and Scorpion stainless 3-box exhaust. With a EV/K-Jet distributor. Off the bat doesn't 34mm seem a little large?
  22. Anyone ever heard of Alan Fieldng/Carbcare?
  23. Hi so I'm running a pair of DHLA 40F's with a 272' cam. I've been told by JRS that the 40F in particular doesn't like lumpy cams and all emissions-type/"suffixed" DHLA's in general can lead to idle and off-idle problems, so I should use the regular non-suffixed DHLA. How much truth is there in that, and would I be better off finding a pair of DHLA non-E or just getting rid of the cam and running a standard one?
  24. Well JRS certainly seem to know their stuff. Apparently the DHLA 40 F was specifically designed for Alfa Romeos and as such the progression phase is not as rich as universal application DHLA's. Will probably send them my stuff if I stay with this.
  25. Any way I could make the offer more enticing or increase the incentive? By set you mean pair of carburettors or a single one? 325 new in box??? F**k.
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