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Everything posted by roulli

  1. Hi Roger the w78x has en increased distance between the 4 mass electrodes and the center electrode. i think itś 1,1mm for the x and 0,9mm for the standard -but dońst nail me on the values. i use the x with megasquirt/ edis coil and the standard wr78 in my sons fast road spitfire engine with 123ign and golden lucas coil ( which is is not tuned yet…) cheers Patrick
  2. Here's the link to the movie, where they found the Triumph graveyard:
  3. Thanks a lot for the good information and advice above Below is a picture showing, how the jig hole ended up in the recessed block. Our cylinder head will yield 10:1 compression, so I better get plugs in there to support the fire rings,as per aoie. The jig holes are 12,5mm. An old cast iron valve guide, I picked out of the metal scrap bin, measures 12,7mm and will be reborn as plug-twins Coming back to the recess: The recess is 0,65 to 0,70mm deep The difference between the Payen gasket and the fire rings of the Payen gasket is 0,90mm (0,80mm in case of the BGA gasket) That makes 0,2mm of compression reserve, if the gasket was in-compressible. Cheers Patrick dd
  4. @ Nick: No it's showing the lower side to illustrate the lack of material to fill out the recess @spartky-spit: fortunately my block does not have these 2 jigging blind holes. I can imagine that they are a source of trouble. did you find an alternative to the Payen? @ Pete: thanks for confirming anyway Another more general question: should I open up the cooling holes in the gasket, to match the bigger triangular channels in the block and head, in order to avoid clogging and improve the flow ofcoolant?
  5. Hi, I'm in the end phase of assembling the fast road 1500 engine and my head gasket experience is limited to the flat-top 6-cyl. block. I have 2 head gaskets for the Spit, one from BGA and one is a Payen AK260, sold for recessed blocks. Now the fire rings that should fit into the recess are not protruding as much, as if they could fill up the recess in the block. On the Payen Gasket the fire rings protrude more on the upper side, that will mate the cyl. head. Will the head push the fire rings into the recess, once it will be torqued? This would mean that the gasket will be loaded with high shear forces... Without the head bolts fitted to the block, the gasket does hardly center on the recesses The fire rings of the old gasket are protruding much more on the lower side of the gasket. Has one put a Payen AK260 into service recently, with success? Or do I just have too much reservations about those fire-rings and the recesses? Cheers, Patrick
  6. Happy new year to All! I've received these NOS Vandervells from the States (Thanks Richard for the tip). As you can see on the pictures, they're slightly corroded. THis one has been cleaned with WD40. Would you still use them over King Tri.Metal (which became available meanwhile). ? Best Patrick
  7. Oh my goodness! That would then be the only positive news for this whole sh.... year. With keeping up that positive tendency, UK might be back in the EU by the end of 2021, one never knows...
  8. Hm, I'm amazed you can get away CR-wise with the MKiV big valve head on the 1500 block, with standard pistons. If I recall well, GT recommends in his tuning book to use the late US dished pistons to compensate for the small chamber- if you mate the big valve MKVl head with the 1500 engine. Also, you could slightly break/round the corner on the squish edge and the the ridges l&r of the spark plug to make it more resistant against detonation. Cheers, Patrick
  9. According to the books and web research I've found: Main end journal Spit 1500: 2,3115" - 2,3120" Main bearing pin TR6: 2,3110" - 2,3115" Crank pin Spit 1500: 1,8750" - 1,8755" Big end pin TR6: 1,8750" - 1,8755" D. Vizard recommends in his book "Tuning Triumphs >1300cc" a clearance of 1,5 thou which ends up to 2,0 thou after brake in. So if the main pin diameters are different for the 6 and the 1500, then the bearings should be different as well unless the 1500 is meant to be driven with 0,0005" less clearance. (Bigger pin diameter in same bearing diameter) Anyway, if you, Roger and Nick, are running TR6 main shells in the 1500, it seems to be a viable solution. Patrick
  10. Hello Roger, DId your engine builder grind the main pins down to fit the TR6 bearings? Patrick
  11. Bastuck as Limora (= SC Parts in UK) do have one of the lowest quality and service images in the eye of the average enthusiastic Triumph fettler located around here. I had a look at their websites, it does not mention the brand neither claim heavy duty or Copper Lead. Price wise it's in the lower range. But it might be worth a call I left the idea of buying mains from the six cylinder, as the pin diameter is specified slightly different for the 6 cylinder and the big crank small chassis engine. I was tempted to buy from Chris Witor of TRGB, then I checked the respective workshop manuals and found the differences. The 6 cylinder main pin is slightly smaller and then I wasn't sure whether the bore of the journal wasn't different either... I googled for "use TR6 main bearing shells in spitfire 1500" and did not find anything concluding positively. Big end pins are to the same specs. though, and here there is no shortage of shells currently for both engines. Good idea, I'll check with JC and Guy (fast green Herald Estate) Patrick
  12. Hi, I'm really struggling to find King Tri-Metal bearings for the Spit 1500 in - .010 Thou. The only shop this side of the channel who has them normally, ran out of stock in -.010 thou.and can't tell me when he will receive them from his UK source due to Covid and Brexit... So I checked the big ones in UK and they don't have them at all, only for the six or the big ends. Some people claim to sell "heavy duty" "copper lead" Kings on ebay, but if I ask that they confirm it says "CP" on the box - because that's the only way to identify "heavy duty Kings", they become unsecure about their claim.... It's apparently not uncommon to do that.. Has anybody bought King real Tri-metal main bearings in the recent past and reveal the source, please. US have plenty of them, but I'd prefer to buy in Europe if possible. Thanks Patrick
  13. I remember now the brand of the valve is Four seasons., but I can't recall the type. Check this out, I'm not sure if the thread fits the OE Triumph adapter though. Picture is upside down https://www.ebay.com/p/75597037 The valve operates very smoothly, has not membrane that can fail. It's basically a tap.
  14. I have the same on the 6 cyl. It's an OE valve from the International Harvester model Scout. They were very difficult to get hold on, whenI was looking for one. I bought one from Amazon about 10 years ago. Patrick
  15. At the end, the amount of populism premiers, presidents, chancellors and politicians in general are ready to play with to fuel their lewdness towards might and governance, is what drives the amount of wrong decisions . At times, where populism appears to be popular all over the world the first duty of a government should be to do the utmost possible to avoid populism emerges even more and not to misuse it. It’s really a pity to see Europe fall apart, especially taking into account that mostly people from the different countries get along quite well an like and respect each other. On the other side, it’s obvious the political Europe and the Euro is far away from being smartly designed. Too many flaws and overplayed officials defining the curvature radius of imported bananas instead of dealing with the paradigms coming up. I understand that one gets fed-up with the tragedy composed in Brussels, Strasbourg and Luxembourg- we all are. But a bad compromise is always better than leaving the flying plane without a parachute…to plagiarize Phil. Patrick
  16. I am a bit late on this topic, but questions fit into the same drawer. The engine I took to the engine builder had still original Stanpart stamped std pistons. Engine must have been an oil burner, as the pistons and chambers and back of valves were heavily black. Some rings were sticking badly in the grooves. Nevertheless the engine builder told me recently the bores were quite good and he would recommend a re-hone. He made trial hones and did not find any "holes" or and no ovality. Honing would increase the diameter by half to 1/100 mm (0,0002" to 0,0004") So no reboring required. But I'd need new pistons. Are there any preferences concerning the rings? I heard Gant rings were the way to go. Some say County pistons come with Gant rings , a technical guy from Rimmer or Moss London said County would have their own rings. Moss US says their pistons come with Hastings rings...... ANy preference from the specialists in this forum? Cheers Patrick
  17. Thanks a lot John and Phil, Waiting for the burrs and flappers... Pressed out the old guides and did already 2 ports with a flame-shaped stone in the Dremel type tool. Worked quite well.. I prefer to take a bit more time, and check more often, as I don't see so well. So I don't want the tool to be too performant...
  18. Here are 8 questions with pictures with red arrow to show the point of interest: 1) INLET THROAT: border from machined to cast surface on LSR - Instructions say don't machin LSR, but rough material is sticking out ref.to machined part below valve seat. Leave or clean up, with the risk of reducing Ventury effect? 2) INLET THROAT: Transition from SSR to LSR If this ridge is removed, will it have a positive effect on flow, or will it generate a negative effect, as it increases cross section --> reduces speed and Ventury? 3) INLET GUIDE BOSS: P. Burgess book says to remove it. But it's nothing but a sharp edge, making the transition from LSR to valve guide. Did you remove it ? 4) CHAMBER RIDGE NEXT TO SPARK: smoothen out or straight line from corner "chamber roof" to corner "cylinder head surface"? That would be a lot of material in the 2nd case... 5) SSR INLET: Don't know how to use the 3 template cross sections from the 6-Cylinder from this forum, as the 6 cylinder throat is less shallow. I will be using this 2,5 mm depth gauge to measure a first cut with the burr at the ridge "end of throat" at 45° in order to make a smooth SSR into the runner. THen I intend to smoothen out from this 2,5mm cut. Would that make sense? 6) SSR EXHAUST: Shouldn't I smoothen out this rdge a bit? It looks so counter intuitive to have this sharp edge in the SSR, even if exhaust is pressed out under high pressure... 7) EXHAUST PORT HUMP: This hump at the bottom is reducing the cross section, as the ceiling is not getting higher by the same amount. I leave it as as? 8) FIT MANIFOLD - HEAD: The 2 pictures below show the gasket holes are almost 4mm bigger than the holes of the manifold and the port. The fit of the manifold to the port is rather good. I'can't feel any ridge, when probing with a scribe. So I leave everything as is and won't increase the diameter of manifold runners and ports, just to match the gasket? (I'm just talking about the matches of the holes, of course I will smoothen out the step 1cm inward of the the inlet-port )
  19. Thanks Frederick, B should be easier for me to get hold of. I'm 15min away from the border Patrick
  20. because they're that bad or because I couldn't deal with the sin ?
  21. Although my spouse loves our Triumphs, she falls as well for the design of the MGB GT. She want's one for herself and is quite repellent to arguments like "Abbington Sh..." and "a pain to work on compared to Triumphs". Anyway, as long as the son hasn't moved out yet, there's no place in the garage... Spitfire has priority. But then eventually after 3 years....who knows...
  22. Thanks a lot for the good advice Yes I know air driven is better, but I have only a small 220V compressor and currently no place for a bigger one & no 3 phase current in the garage, required for the real stuff The device from Lidl Germany is not shipped abroad, but it's a real bargain. I was in a local shop but didn't find tungsten carbide burrs. Do you buy it online or in a local tool shop? I bought some grind stones with 3mm shaft, that I will try in my 130W beefed up Dremel kind tool. Let's see how long it takes until I get fed up and buy the Makita or find a German comuter work-mate, who's willing to receive the shipping from Lidl. @ Frederic you were quoting the preparation instructions for the triumph 1500 engine from the P. Burgess' book, which I've learned by heart by the way.... Yes I agree, it's not too precise.... It states also " The chamber wall on the spark plug side of the head needs to have the chamfer removed to create a straight line from the head face to the original wall starting point in the chamber roof." I thought the way to go here was to "smoothen the ridges l. & r. of the plug hole" Removing all material in a straight line from edge to edge is a lot of material, and needs to be compensated when shaving the head... Do you "smoothen" or "straight-line" around the plug-hole? Thanks for the link on triumphexp. didn't know that one. 3 pages including "GT-bonus" ... I'll have a beer and chips to fully enjoy the read Cheers Patrick
  23. I read my emails before I logged in on sideways. SO i had already a look at the book Thanks again Nick. Even that Vizard book is not for the small engines it's still interesting, as it is really full of details. Some other books are so disappointing as one expects tangible advice and then it remains rather superficial and at the end one still doesn't know what to do. @ Millstone10 The Makita has one fixed speed only, doesn't it? Is that not an issue.
  24. Thanks John and Nick for sharing your experience Copies of Vizard's book are currently available for 500 to 800 $ on Amazon. I'll probably download a pdf. It's just a bit weird, that these sites promote free download and then one has to register and leave a credit card number..
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