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JohnD

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  1. And I thought Prescott was scary! That's a Panoz LMP07, isn't it? http://www.mulsannescorner.com/panozlmp07.html Bit different from most UK hill climbs! John PS Oh! Wow! I didn't wait for Nick's pic to come up! Thanks Nick - super photo! Of the car! Me, I must remember to take off my reading glasses before I go racing! J.
  2. Thanks, jony, I'll take that as a compliment! If you don't come off, you're not trying. Thanks too for revising the original post to show SofS. As to actually having a tool box out, I wanted the F1 pit stop look. John
  3. See: http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/EdOlson.htm
  4. Apart from dave's excellent list, a good quality humility kit is a must for any newbie racer. 'coz however much of a petrol headed road warrior you are, you ain't gonna win no races, for a while at least, if ever. I should know. But you WILL have a barrel of fun! John
  5. 8mm copper pipe @ <£15/ Ten Metres. Compression connectors from Screwfix @ £6/ten. Braided? Pah! John
  6. Dave, The only belts I have found so far - halfords and local bearing factors - are either so tight that it has to be levered on, and that one is too wide, anyway so that it turns itself off, or so long that the alternator goes over centre on tightening. Strange, but true. I suppose that I now have such a mixture of pulleys etc from various models that I have a wholly non-standard belt length. I'll keep on trying! John
  7. Thanks, freek, I'll follow that one. ian, dave, matt, thanks! I find that a tape measure around the pulleys is better as the number on the belt is the outside circumference. String or wire will give you a figue that is Pi times the depth of a belt too small. Strangely, all the sites that are about V-belts (Now that I know that is the right term, I can find lots! Thanks!) say that the circumference is quoted as the inside circ.! John
  8. Park the car about ten feet from a wall. Measure the height and distance apart of the lamps. Copy onto the wall. Shine lights on full beam at the wall, note if each light spot centre does not hit the wall marks. Adjust each light until they do. Dipped beams should follow automatically. John
  9. Moi? Dans un GT6? I wouldn't fit in it! No pics of my hill excursion yet. George also gave Jake Binnington a ride up the hill that left the young man grinning like he has never grinned before! Thanks George! John
  10. Not a part of the country where they don't appreciate stand-up, but (boring) help me find a fan belt for an unusual engine. SofS's set-up just won't take any of the standard, widely available fan belt lengths. It needs to be somewhere shorter than 1184 and longer than 1140. I was advised at Prescott so "just go to any engineer's merchant", but round where I live that means a fastners 'n' fixings shop. I was also advised to visit the Quinton Hazell webiste, but that lists all their products under application - Lamborghini Miura fan belt , anyone? - not length/circumference. Is there a web catalogue that does list length? Or anyone know a suitable store in the Lancaster area? Thanks, John
  11. dave, matt, the "Elch Pro Acoustic Sealant" is just that, "fire rated" in that it can "guarantee fire integrity for up to four hours" but NOT intumescent. See the COSHH data linked on the same page. Firemate IS intumescent, and is 'fire rated' for five hours. See: http://www.everbuild.co.uk/images/pdf/technical/Fire%20Mate.DOC Pip,pip! John
  12. The Aces will be there! Ace John
  13. As electrons travel nearly at the speed of light, in the real world you can have plug leads as long and short as you like without deranging the timing. There will be a tiny power loss through resistance, but not significant for a 'long' real world lead. But different makes have different qualities, and withstand heat better of worse. Magnecor are a good name. Jiohn
  14. It's a bugger when half the Spitfires originally exported to the USA were sold here, LHD, and shipped over in the holds of USAF Globemasters returning across t'Pond. The servicemen paid no purchase tax, so havign to pay VAT or import duty now.........! John
  15. It's a set-up. Or else the Midget driver has no idea about corners. Several times, he gets ahead of the Spitfire - and then stays on the outside of the corner, letting him through! Fun, but I'd rather see real racing. John
  16. In which case - rolled wire edges! John
  17. Ah! Little grasshopper, perfection is in the search, not the solution! You will come to wisdom with long striving. Ooooooooooooooooooooooooom! John
  18. AJ, You wouldn't say that if you cut yourself on the edge. And that rolled edge gives a lot of stiffness. The wire can be much smaller than used - good example! - on a wheel barrow. 10-14 SWG wire (2-3mm diam) is suitbale for alloy panels Mattius, If the panels fit so well to something else, why do you need to protect the edge? Rolled wire edging is appropriat for a free edge - like a wheel arch, as dave says, or the edges of a wheel barrow as AJ says. John
  19. You can put them on more often, but the polymerisation reaction is exothermic - it heats up. Hold a pot of resin that is going off if you don't believe me! Or lay a gloved hand on a layer that is curing - it'll be warm. That continues for some time, and the strength of the material is affected for the worse if it happens too quickly. Put another layer on one still going off, and they will get hotter than they would otherwise, and go off quicker. 24 hours is just a convenient time. Lay up one layer. Go and do something else. Come back tomorrow. Could be done early and late the same day, I suppose, 8-12 hour gap. Would doing it in such stages be a problem? John PS do each layer as a seris of resin mixes. Mix one big pot for the whole job, and all you will have a solid pot of very hot resin! It goes off much quicker in the pot, as it doesn't have the surface area it has on the work to radiate heat. This is where you can go on using the same brush. Ask your supplier, but 4% catalyst is the standard ratio. I've used less, down to 2%,depending on the weather temperature - that affects curing rate - and the thickness of the layer I'm putting on, or more 5-6% if I'm making a very small mix. It's special situations like this that the pros use their additives to control. Us amateurs can play with mix ratios, but best use lots of time, 'coz that's what we have and the pros don't. J.
  20. Matt, Yes indeed that will work! The standard method for repairing GRP is to place a few alloy strips on the outside of a crack or tear to hold it in place and then add resin and matt on the inside. For the best finish, you would do well to rivet a full length strip along the gap, so that the outer surface of thr gap is smoothish. Prepare the face of the alloy strip by covering it with brown parcel wrapping tape and a layer of polish. The resin doesn't stick to that tape, and the polish is is the releasing agent as insurance. Check the tape with a bit of curing resin first! Rough up the edes of the gap and inside surface with a wire brush in drill or grinder. Cut matt to cover the gap with a good overlap either side. No need for special glass materials, use random chopped matt. Paint resin into the inside surface and the edges of the gap. Paint resin onto the prepared matt (over newspaper), then lay it over the gap Stipple the paint brush into the matt, to ensure that it is wetted right through onto the original inner surface, no bubbles. Let is go off, at least 24 hours. Repeat until the new material is at least as thick as the old. Drill out the rivets and prise off the alloy strip. Clean up and make good the outer surface. Forget a gel coat when you make the repair/modification. It'll need a skim or two of filler and rubbing down. Ther's no way you can make a perfect surface straight off on this. Do this with fire resistant resin - you'll notice that the original cover is dense white - that is a fire resistant filler in the resin. If you can find a local compnay that makes GRP items, they will be able to find you some. It's expensive, but so is insurnace. Good luck! John PS Paint brushes are best for this - the rollers are useless, and difficult to clean. Paint brushes are IMPOSSIBLE to clean and must be thrown away after each session - though if you work at a reasonable speed, you can use one for a succession of mixes. Buy the very cheap brush packs - six of various sizes for less than a �5 from DiY stores. PPS The Haynes manual "Car Bodywork Repair manual" by Potter, has a whole chapter on GRP repairs. Very worthwhile, IMHO!
  21. Steve, NOT the expanding polyurethane foam, but slabs of the stuff, factory made in and enormous block, cut and sold in 2x4ft sheets and inch thick. Carbon fibre? ONLY if you have the vacuum packing and autoclaves that Chris mentions. If you want localised strength - and that's a good idea, not the same thickness of matt everywhere - increase the matt thickness or use roving in that place. Roving is woven glass fibre - much stronger than random strand matt. Gel coat? In a little bottle? No, gel coat is just a layer of the resin laid first of all and allowed to go off, Then the matt etc can be added and the strands won't show through the gel coat. I agree, it's difficult to get the resin to stay on the mould, esp. where the mould wall is vertical. (Maybe the little bottle was some additive - GRP pros use dozens for various purposes.) My secret is to use GRP tissue in the gel coat. Lay it up as you would for the matt, and the tissue is invisible afterwards! AND, for a motorsport application, use a fire resistant resin. The stuff I use has a white inorganic filler in it (Bauxite??) If you have a local GRP manuafacturer, you would do well to go and talk to them. Mine, and small form that makes guard huts, ticket booths and the like, is very helpful, with advice and materials, at prices far less than I can buy elsewhere, They seem happy to sell me yards of matt off the roll and gallons of resin from their tanks at their cost price. And their foreman has been most helpfull with advice, and 'little bottles'! John
  22. Dave, Jon Wolfe has the same design on his race GT6, exceopt that tube is about half an inch in diameter! Loks impossible, but it works for him! John
  23. Steve, DiY! I made the rear hatchback door for the Silverback in GRP, by casting a mould from the original door. Fill the window with a hardboard panel, riveted on the back of the seam that the glass mounts against. The rounded tops of the rivets should be to the outside so that they will not retain resin. Clean and polish, polish, polish! So that the mould breaks cleanly from the original. Lay up a gelcoat, then several layers of GRP - mould MUST be stiff, and the weight doesn't matter. Lay rolls of newspaper across, and GRP over them to build stiffness into the mould. After breaking the mould off the door, clean and polish, polish, polish the mould for the same reason! Lay up a gel coat and as many layers of GRP as you want. This will be merely a skin, so I suggest one of random matt. Now you have a choice. Do the same to the back of the door, so that you can make two surfaces and join them. The inner side is a much more complex shape, but the holes could be blanked off, like the window opening. OR Fix polyurethane foam to the back of the door skin, and shape that (with knives and surforms - like making a surfboard) to a likeness of the original inner surface , or whatever you wnat. Then cover the shape with GRP and matt. This is easier to do, and the result, a composite of two skins bonded to a light filler is extremely strong, but the foam absorbs a lot of resin and the result is that the door is much heavier. The pics below show the Sb with door in place and with it off, leant against the side. This gives you an idea of what is possible. I should say that the window bars were not required to steady the top window frame, which was quite stong enough by itself. I was concerned that the low pressure behind the car plus the internal pressure could blow the window out! John
  24. Dave is right. It should be an intumescent seal - that means it expands if heated, to positively seal the joint and prevent fumes/heat getting through. That can be a special strip of material laid inside the joint, or circular collars for pipes, but in this application, I'd say use a mastic. Like this: http://www.fireprotectiononline.co.uk/shop/intumescent-mastic.html OR Go to a local builders merchant and ask! Not a DiY store or a small hardware store - a proper bulders merchant! John
  25. Oh, come on, that is a dreadful, tacky bodge! The proper engineering solution to finishing a panel with a free edge is the rolled wire edge. A length of wire is enclosed in the edge of the panel to make it stiff and not sharp. A rolled edge is an excellent way to finish such panels and looks good too! Much better than that sticky stuff, which will fall off eventually, if it gets hot or oil/fuel on it. To wire a free edge: Scribe a line a distance from the edge that is 2.5 times the diameter of the wire plus twice the thickness of the metal. Fold the panel along the line to a right angle. Clamp a flat strip, the thickness of the wire or slightly more against the inside of the turn, and fold the metal down against the strip. Remove the strip and insert the wire. Use the strip to ensure it is flush inside the fold. Hammer the fold down against the wire, then use a straight edge to set the final edge into the corner between wire and panel. See the diagrams. John
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