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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. Yes, I got that part, but I wasn’t clear. I was looking at the hose connections on your new heat exchanger and wondering what sort of connections are used to make the oil circuit joints as they don’t look like hose barbs....
  2. TR Register track day at Castle Coombe. Great organisation (light touch, but efficient). So nice to be out in the company of like-minded friends, both old and new. Weather was a bit mixed, but I didn’t mind. Cornering hard at Quarry..... Mr Carruthers’ gorgeous 2000 EFI distinguished company was a bit damp at times...... Funny looking GT6..... quite a beast though
  3. The old beast has had a fairly exciting day...... Around 100 on-track miles at Castle Coombe in conditions varying between bone dry and monsoonal. One of my sessions was red flagged due to part of the tracking being under water. Nothing fell off and there were no tantrums. We did get a couple of cases of “is it a 2.5”, which I always consider a win.... Giving the tyres a workout In good company more good company and Mr Carruthers’ gorgeous Mk1 2000 PIe
  4. Oh.... fun..... not! Are you doing it yourself? I prefer the black.
  5. Sure.... still a high-ish no. 150 - 200 would be good. Forgot you had the ITBs. Batch fire will give less good results than sequential - mainly due to the ability to time the injection with sequential. Not worth fretting about as, as you say, it’s a comfortable pass. Leaning things off might make HCs worse due to increased misfires/partial burns.
  6. The HCs are a bit high but not horrible. This is most likely the result of your sporty cam, plenum manifold and a little bit of reversion at idle leading to incomplete burning. The Vitesse falls into the “no visible smoke” testing category, which is good as I suspect it’s HCs would be rather higher!
  7. I would be tempted to bypass the cooler and see what that does. You can also get thermostatically controlled “automatic bypass” devices, which I would consider essential for any cooler install. I suspect that you only need the cooler for long stretches of fast road work (and then only marginally) or for track use. So it could be argued to just remove it. But as mentioned before, the (rather cute) device you have there brings the benefit of heating the oil - useful in the hill climb scenario...... Not sure I’m properly understanding how the oil connections work ......?
  8. Are you saying none of the actual lights work? Is there a fuse box? Might be worth rummaging the internet for a wiring diagram, which might reveal whether there’s a relief relay.
  9. 2.5 crank John.... Measures standard and is pretty reasonable. For a cooking road engine you could give the the journals a polish up and go with it. For a racer a grind 10/10 is probably advised. Thrust area ok. Some light surface rust plus a bit of deeper pitting on the front 3/4” of the nose and rear boss.
  10. Other than it being a huge faf and needing the matching switch gear and wiring mods..... for minimal gain..... My opinion - as someone whose Vitesse dashboard (Mk1) is a total disgrace
  11. https://www.coxandturner.co.uk/piston-rings
  12. Possibly. I think my usual engine machining guy makes rings or knows someone who does......
  13. Ohhhh.... that's ugly...... That engine ran along time without thrust washers, got "fixed" then did it again. Possibly could be fixed properly if you were determined and had the right kit, though looks like there is an awful lot gone from the crank face in particular - would need a specially made thrust washer for sure. Sorry to say that I think you'd do much better to start with better parts!
  14. Data logging higher speed machinery tends not to save the machine in question completely, though it might minimise the damage. However, knowing what killed the first one may well save its successor from the same fate.
  15. Ref the bearings, I’ve done quite a few of these over the years using nothing more than hammers, brass drifts and the occasional tube. They are tight, but not that tight - usually. The only one that needed a good walloping was clearly knackered already....... was more knackered after! Ref the plug, my usual technique is to drill a through hole that’s just big enough to belt a splined bit into, and then lean on that. Mostly this technique is used on the aluminium plugs with no Allen key hole, but I’ve used it on rounded out steel ones as well. I have an elderly set of splined bits that ar
  16. You make it look easy........ ...... I know it is not!
  17. Yeah. Stubbornly immobile! Not actually bolted down but might as well be!
  18. https://www.quickfitsbs.com/rewebbing.php http://www.safetybeltservices.co.uk/contact.html Not used either myself but I'm pretty I've seen a couple of people recommend the first one (in Stanmore)
  19. Big. Especially tall. Which is a problem, the main problem I should say. Heavy. Not especially powerful. Didn't have a great reliability rep back in the day. Now rare and parts hard to find. Many better options...... probably including the original 1300/1500!
  20. This is the "holy grail" of factory 2.5 cranks - the early Mk1 PI or possibly TR5/early TR6 crank with cross-drilling. One thing to watch is whether it is a long or short back crank. That is whether the rear of the crank where the flywheel attaches is longer, moving the flywheel backwards. All Vitesses and GT6s would be short back from the factory as is all the later stuff. Not sure exactly what cars the long-back cranks came with (they also exist in non-cross-drilled form) or why Triumph thought it necessary to do this and have two versions, but I suspect that a long back crank would be d
  21. Nice job Roger. I've also seen similar where they've also drilled and tapped for a couple of brass counter-sunk screws to make absolutely sure. Don't see the need on top of what you have done though.
  22. Might have a spare here. Though geography not very helpful...... Had been contemplating putting one in the Vitesse (not easy)
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