Nick Jones

I’ve got about 5

Yep, that’s done….. 2m of elastic strapping. Not actually Pirelli, something a bit less spendy. Plus some 1mm steel sheet 45 x 90mm bent into an interesting shape. Squeezed and riveted to the strapping. Fiddly, but cheap and effective. Two in place. I think it needs 4. Made at 270mm for 280mm fitted length. Maybe I’ll be looking over the top of the windscreen……

We are just car people. No need to be tribal*. within the same bloody make! *To prove it I have parts from Toyota, Peugeot, Audi, Rover (well, Honda),Volvo, Ford, BMW and even a few Triumph bits in the Vitesse….

That all looks good now Clive. Well done! Not sure I understand about the auto-moderate (one report -or whatever it’s set to- causes a post to be hidden pending human intervention?) Did you add the link to Chris’s Spit thread? If so, many thanks - I could not make the CT forum accept a link - is that a settings thing too? Or technology problems my end?

Thanks Clive. Note that Lucas has two threads running. I’ve commented on the one John replied to (which you may have seen) and out a more constructive reply on the other one. Can’t be scaring the young-uns off!!

I think you should take that up with the forum mods John and demand an explanation! I don’t think that is the Club Triumph way.

Low loading and a “good culture” does allow long intervals. 40 years is fairly exceptional though!

Fortunately we have other facilities. Two in fact now the soil pipe for the downstairs loo is mended. It’s long been an irritation to me that certain family members will walk past two working toilets on the way to use the most distant one that relies on two unreliable pumps to function

Fixed. I cheated. Got my local builder neighbour in…… It’s my job to bury it - but I can manage that.

Well, there is that. Though it’s been on a “no solids” diet for several months following a solids blockage due to low motor torque due the knackered capacitor (this is what caused the capacitor purchase). I’m going to encourage the continuation of the no solids diet.

No Megger. I think the motor itself is behind another layer of sealing, maybe even oil filled. That part of it is fairly decent, it’s the horrible plastic box and fittings it comes in. It’s back in and working….. long may it continue!

Dried it out. Switch treated with WD40 and contact cleaner. DMM now measures infinity (within its low voltage limitations) to earth and across the switch when open. Closed switch reads 0.00. Connected it up outside the box and it seems happy. Phew….. Have spent too long trying to figure out how the water got in. Nothing obvious or provable. Now mostly carefully reassembled (the motor/switch assembly) and developing a testing method to try to head off further disappointment….

I paid £40 for mine. It was a while (1987?!) ago and I think they were about £250 new at the time. It’s a very old one, from the 70s, originally supplied with s-shaped arm, but they are extremely simple, robust things. I did upgrade to the RB300 arm after while which cost about £120 at the time……

Let’s hope…….

Seems quite pricey. Could also buy on without an arm - they seem cheap - Sometimes even sub -£100. RB 300 arm was OE fit from late 80s and may be found separately at reasonable cost too. Other arms fit.

Ah! Doh indeed. Straight out of “Just Rolled in”! Easy fix though….

No, definitely not. Private equity taking over is usually bad news. Asset strippers tends to be accurate description unfortunately. It’s the American market exposure that is why those two I assume. No doubt there is some positive spin being put on it….

Yes, bought a new DMM recently. It wasn’t expensive and doesn’t have all the bells and whistles. Not Fluke build quality either, but then it was about 1/8th the price. I’m happy with it. What I’m NOT happy about is that I appear to have buggered it up. Plaintive voice from the the shower this morning….. “the water’s not leaving”. RCD has popped and won’t reset. Out with the Aquavac (100% essential kit in any Saniflo inflicted household) and bail out the shower tray, the bog, the cistern and then, after a bit of dismantling, the bastard box itself. I did measure the resistance to earth which was in the KOhms region measured with a DMM (!), so unsurprising the RCD was unhappy (they are GOOD things!). Dragged the pump assembly out and, yes the switch chamber is FULL of “water”. In spite of genuine (expensive) new diaphragm, clip and very careful assembly. Have successfully done this job before so really don’t know what’s gone wrong. Also, for the switch box to fill up as it was, water has to get past both seals I disturbed and both look fine….. So, can I successfully dry it out? And can I discover how the water is getting in and prevent it? Cheapest locally available new unit is £630. Cheapest anywhere £530 - so I’m fairly motivated!

Manual transmission? All on the bottom of the H, which I’m sure is telling you something….

Didn’t he realise he was being granted the privilege of viewing a multi-championship winning racing machine? Expected nothing less

You’re getting me going now Roger…..

Still on capacitors….. I may have mentioned before how much I love the household (in)Saniflo. I may even have mentioned that it was hesitant about starting sometimes, presumably due to a failing motor capacitor. I actually bought the parts sometime ago but have not been able to muster the energy and enthusiasm to do anything with them. Well, last night it sat there and buzzed for a full 5 seconds before starting so today is the day. The capacitor is buried deep in it, and I have to rip the bathroom apart to extract the bloody thing. Here it is…. The old 10uF removed measured 1.3 uF. The new 14uF installed measured 14.1uF. Just got to wrestle it back together now, then rebuild the bathroom around it. Whole new one next time I think as this one needs all the rubber components renewing plus various NRVs and parts are ludicrously expensive.

Cultural vandalism painting over that….

Probably works for cats too….