Nick B.

Hello The design is really something extraordinary. They are also funny to open, as they are meant to be repaired opposed to most present consumer electronic products. The quality of parts are also nice, allthough the plastic goes brittle - that is the only part that lets them down. I have had this stereo since early 90'ies. It has been in service, though one could discuss how much is left of the original stereo. It comes with a nice beogram 2404 recordplayer. I used to have a beogram 1000 recordplayer, as this allowed for records to be played at 78 rpm Cheers Nick .

Servicing the Beomaster 1700 amp today. Volume slider is broken B&O managed to produce some good looking stereos, allthough some of the solutions were a bit - er - empty headed. For example - the volume son my amp is a slider, which worked fine for the first 20-30 years. Here is the unit - nice acces :-) Unfortunately the sliders are made of rubber, which goes hard and break - like this Not to mention the rollers they run on - they have a fork which interact with a potentiometer should look like this But the old plastic breaks and go like this Fortunately I have a spare unit for spares and repair, so I got the thing working again Next problem is the friction discs in the potentiometer-control. The slider controls volume, balance, bass and treble. And the friction discs are worn. Fortunately these are actually spareparts that can be obtained - more or less the on ting for these beasts. Cheers Nick

If the title of this post refers to the 'Engine and anc...' category, I would like to correct John a little (this might be my only ever chance to do that) The latest pinned post were from 2011. The last regular post were from june this year - not all is bad :-) Cheers Nick

I have checked the oil pressure relief valve - actually expeimented with 3 different just to be sure. The oilpump (well spotted) is an optical illusion, It is almost at the bottom of the sump. I have not plastigauge the BE, good idea. The shells looked so fine, that I doubt there is any flow problems here. For now I have just reassembled the engine and ruled out excessive wear on the shells. If ignition-troubleshooting does not solve the oil-temp problem I will definately look into the oilflow again and plasticgauge the BE. I think it is fair to mention that the very hot oil is mostly observed when I am doing very long runs with high RPM or climbing stelvio (it takes a lot of autobahn to get from denmark to italy...) Altitude map on the stelvioday (meters on Y-axis, kilometers driven on X-axis) And with speed overlay A nice 13 hour drive (with good meal-breaks). Cheers Nick

welcome back

Hi Sam It is a 1300 engine. I have no oil-cooler, but have thought about it, as my oiltemperature is high (when flogging the car) though watertemperature is low. Have a wide rad fitted, that probably helps :-) I ran on castrol classic oil on 10CR Cheers Nick

Not working fast here. Shells were fine, and oilpump were well within tolerances. Put NOS oilpump in for good measure. No excessive sludge in the sump. Shells were complete and undamaged. There were some scratches on the crank on the far left, but nothing that commanded a reground. All other were fine. Still on std size. I am turning towards oilpressure problems being down to poor ignition producing very hot oil which makes oilpressure go down.

Hopefully the proces will be easy as I take the old gearbox of, and then put the new gearbox in just minutes after. Lets hope.... And then hopefully the box is good. I trust Gareth has put a nice box together for me, and I can engage third gear without resorting to violence. The syncro rings looked somewhat miscoloured on the old one, and there were quite a lot of yellow metal debris in the OD filter, very fine metal grit from the syncro rings. Cheers Nick

Oh, dear. I am slow Yesterday I actually managed to start pulling the box apart. I managed to remove the bellhousing and the shifter mech. Then I realised that I did not have enough silikone for the gaskets to complete the job. Besides, that I was missing the top selector gasket (slow delivery...) I decided to leave it all on the floor, also because I could not remember what Nick Jones had told me NOT to fiddle with. In short, I was to tired to do anything, and I abandoned ship. Next tuesday I have an agreement with the box that it will be put back together and mated to the engine. And hopefully engine goes back into car. Cheers Nick

Fingers crossed All the best Cheers Nick

Springs are 'uprated' marked with a yellow dot as far as I recall. My watertemp is perfect in the middle, even when oil is very hot. My very hot oil is a problem related to going up and down alpine passes (10CR 2017) or prolonged streches of autobahn after my OD went AWOL. The melted plug were before I went for AAA needles - that was on AAQ needles. And it was on a trackday in second gear screaming round a bend in way to many RPMs (I did beat that AC Cobra though :-) ) My bet is that my ignition timing is buggered as I am running an old unit probably with a half way dead vacuum unit) I need to get the MJ sorted. Cheers Nick

Thanks for more good advise. Perhaps it is a good idea to enlightned you on why I want to monitor AFR. I have endless some problems with my oilpressure and oiltemperature. When I flog the car I end up with almost no pressure at idle, and very hot oil (around 125 degrees) I took out the shells last thursday, and there were no obvious damage, they were actually very spotless and unworn after 10.000 miles since rebuild (including 10CR). I changed the oilpump, even though the existing were with good tolerances. The 1300 engine has raised compression, and 1.5 SU, with ported head. Needles are AAA emergency needles which are the richest I could find. Now clever people suggest that I am running to lean, making the engine way to hot (melted sparkplugs would suggest this claim has something to it). Besides my ignition is probably off to, since I have not managed to start the megajolt. The generator fried the MJ-board instantly the last time, so I need a new generator (less lucas india powerspikes) So I am diagnosing the AFR to get the correct mixture for this engine, as it is so modified I cannot go by book. I am tempted by the PLX device, which has an analog output, and I obvously does not need the output for anything else than monitoring and adjust the MJ-ignition table after test runs. First thing I do is to get the mad welder to help me putting a bung into the exhaust. Cheers Nick

Thank you for all the valuable information. Still quite difficult for me to find out what is what here. Is it possible to use the Megajolt unit for calibration. How do I combine the two datasources ? Well first thing is to just go ahead and fit a sensor to the exhaust :-) Cheers Nick

I am on the lookout for a wideband system to provide me with a bit of information on my carburation. What should I get, that works well with a megajolted car? I am tempte to go with the techedge kit from triggerwheels, but have not really got a clue Any suggestions? Cheers Nick

Hi I feel that is a bit harsh towards GT. I have bought items from GT on three different occasions. Even though delivery has been somewhat - ahem - stalled regarding the gearbox, the quality of delivered items has not been an issue. Though I can only speak for myself here. Perhaps I was just lucky, perhaps my items were good since I was not in a rush and could wait for years and years before delivery, and did not bother him inbetween with trifles as will I ever see my items (mostly because I was going through divorce...) :-) I miss GT on this forum. He might be different, but things definitely was never boring with him around - especially when Dave Sideways also was a contributing member and they tried to outsmart each-other. Cheers Nick

Hi Chris Hope it works out for you. The 5 year wait for the gearbox was partially my own fault. I wasn't exactly being assertive about it, and I was not in need of the gearbox, was just reserving it for a future occasion (which is now, some 3 years after delivery :-) ) All good. Just hope the box is as good as promised. Cheers Nick

Hi I waited something like 5 years for a OD-transmission. I was not in a hurry, and has actually not fitted it yet, as the old transmission held up fine (until 10CR...) I have also had a good wait for som of his plasmaplugs, but has never found that he did not deliver at all. I find GT honest though somewhat logistic challenged. In short - I have never been let down by GT. Cheers Nick

Hello John I am sad to say that it is also my experience. I have more or less given up on the forum. I used to open the forum in a seperate browser-window, and only show new unread threads. Now I cannot figure out how to open the forum without all the club-shop clutter in the right side of my monitor. Next I cannot figure out how to show only unread threads. It is truly sad - I hope they work it out along the way - change is usually tricky. Cheers Nick

So the saga continues After giving the Spitfire a well deserved flogging round europe in september, I have decided to pull the engine apart. This for two reasons: 1: Alarmingly low oil-pressure at tick-over on an engine with less than 15K on it. 2: Gearbox is crunching on 3rd syncro - must be fixed (new box in stock - quick fix) Last night the engine came out - after a few hours, the engine were out, and cleaning could begin. Kicked myself hard when I realised that I had forgot to undo the large nut on the crank. Plan is to: Clean engine very thoroughly remove crank, have it measured and perhaps go 1 size up in shells New shells I will leave the pistons in situ. Cheers Nick

Actually - it is not just a valid license that is needed - you are not allowed to teach the the young'uns if you have had a (serious) speeding offence within the last 10 years. I am a very defensive driver, so unfortunately I cannot teach the household teens to drive :-) Cheers Nick

My garage is cold and drafty. I like your idea of a well insulated and heated workshop :-) The one thing I like most in the workshop is light, and plenty of it. I prefer lights from different angles, both ceiling mounted light but also on the walls, so you don't shadow for yourself. So lightning:, armatures like the one pictured. Plenty of them both on the wall and ceiling. I prefer the closed type as they are easier to clean. For the workbench it must be accompanied by a swiveling light. Cheers Nick

Hi Nick Thank you. It is assuring to know that things does not explode on the workbench when I take them apart. I really must resist the urge to twiddle the flange. I most certainly would have done it if I had not been warned. The Mad Welder kan confirm I am quite a fiddler who never leaves stuff untouched. The new gearbox is one I bought from GT a few years ago, and I judge it is a good time to put it into service. Hopefully it will last better than the old one, where the new china-made syncros on third gear really is not up to the job. And most definitely the magnets and filters will be cleaned. As you perhaps remember from 10CR my OD decided to retire itself from service about 5 hours after start. I suggest an electrical error though. It has always been a nice shifter without hesitation. Less than 1.5 seconds to engage, and instant disengagement. Cheers Nick

Hi After the 10CR, I decided my 3-reail D-type ODgearbox needed some service. The syncro on 3rd gear are worn, and the change is not smooth, but requires a bit of fettling - or brutality. I have a complete rubuild OD-gearbox I bought from GT a few years ago, and now want to put the thing into service. Question is - is it straight forward to remove OD-unit from the old gearbox and put it onto the new box? Any traps to look out for? Cheers Nick

I think it is a question of patience. The machice seems to have forgotten last read post on the old forum, but picks up nicely at last read post on second visit to a thread in the new forum. At least for me :-) Probably some kind of cookie thing?? Keep up the good work. Cheers Nick

It was a great run - I hope to do it again once :-) Now - let's try this forum, sorry for the mess, just trying to upload :-)... Lunch somewhere in france Letting the car cool of while having lunch in the swiss alps. Lovely italian styled place. Chatting with two chaps in a red TR7 Bumped into Roy (amoingst others) on a small spot in the alps Entering Livigno after a nice up the hill. Managed to catch up with the TR and do some overtaking on the downhill Passed this hotel in livigno - I have stayed there twice for skiing trips. Looks different in the summer! And finally arrived at Rolduc. Was the second car to arrive - and the first car to arrive that had followed the routebook. Car had been properly whipped ....