toofast2race

Most blocks will take 77mm bore without issues - after that its pot luck although you can look at the underside of the block and get an idea of how central the bores are to the casting

All good here despite the current madness! Bit slack for work (temp 40% pay cut) so plenty of jobs going to get done over the next few months

Hello Nick :-) The difference is 5/8" of an inch or 16mm. All long back cranks that I have seen are crossdrilled and some early Mk2 2500 1968/69 TR6 cranks are crossdrilled also. Apparently TR250 were NOT crossdrilled but I've not seen one to verify - anyone? So all TR5 and all 2.5PI Mk1 are crossdrilled and 5/8" longer. All Mk2 and TR6 are short - early ones are cross drilled. Beware NOS Mk1 crossdrilled cranks - they tend to break (poorly machined factory rejects??)

I've never scrapped a block going to 77mm or 77.5mm. I must be lucky

Adjusted MAP bins and dropped VE to 5 on over run - big improvement. Also found wideband throws a wobbly after about 30 secs. Hopefully fresh air calibration sorts that

Refresh my brain, very low fuelling and what sort of advance on over run ? Assume lots of advance?

Well I've answered my own question - MG Midget 1500 or late TR7. Now to hunt one down..... reckons its just what my TR6 needs

Where is that thermostat cover from? Has the Leyland stamp??

Long time no post. After what seems like an age of no tuning ( I checked it was 5 years(!) since I last tweaked anything on my 2100.), I recently lent my car for a fortnight to a South Australian member of the TSOA for the National rally week held in Margaret river. Lending a car means you become suddenly conscious of all it's quirks that you tend to get used to and drive around. The car performed very well although it definitely needs a LSD for competition work(see video link) https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=62wPONMdDNs However I was getting increasingly frustrated with a slight miss / hesitation when coming from coast back to cruise throttle at 2000-3000rpm. I seem to have cured this by adding fuel and a bit of advance at that point but now I am getting slight shunting / surging on the over-run at 2000-3000rpm which I think why I removed fuel and advance there in the first place. Any simple tricks to get a shunt free coast / over run condition?

I learnt to ski at 23 (1990) and then didn't ski again until 2017. It's like riding a bike - you don't forget. I have since skied at every opportunity - the Sella Ronda in the Dolomites is simply a fantastic experience. Start on the easy stuff and build confidence.

Interesting that a Vitesse gets its oil at least 10deg hotter than a 2000 saloon - my oil struggle to get over 90deg even after all day on the Nullabor at about 80mph. Max I saw after 6 hard laps at Mallala SA was 120deg and it rapidly cooled down- if anything the oil doesn’t reach even 80deg on the open road driven to speed limits - it warms up in traffic ( less air flow?) to the same as water temp ~ 85deg. I concluded it didn’t need or warrant a cooler (unlike a 2500)

I’d be quicker nowadays - this was in 2016

El Teide is a helluva walk - the cinder / scoria screes on the route we took was about 5 steps up for one actual step. Amazing scenery for a geologist

The rear trailing arms used to be yellow from Chris - they are a huge improvement over standard and easier to fit. I clean/polish the trailing arm with a small flap wheel and then fit with some rubber grease (without the steel bush) using some threaded bar and some large washers. Here are mine - fitted in the mid 1990's Here are mine - fitted i

He’s such a grumpy bugger, 73 years old and retired but institutionalised in his machine shop that I’ll let it pass! It did see +7000 on numerous occasions!