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Everything posted by Lincspeed

  1. Don't know why the image posted twice… BTW - I would never drive this thing on the road - way too harsh with 650# front and 600# rear springs and a straight cut gear box.
  2. Getting closer to sorting this bastard out… new Canely (sp) front truniionless uprights and adjustable camber upper a arms has helped to get the setup correct for the cantilevered bias race tires I run (20X8X13) which require zero camber. Sprung for a new set this weekend and knocked 2 seconds off my lap times (1.5 mile track). So things are improving. Still need to sort the rear suspension out - too much bottoming out and loss of grip at the wrong time...
  3. I recently purchased a set of older Revolution wheels to use for my rain tires. They have been media blasted and I will be painting them, but the problem is getting them bolted on the car. They have the old style shouldered nuts with the flat washer that seats against the wheel and the nut extension reaches into the hub area of the wheel. The fit is so tight that it is nearly impossible to get them all "in their holes" with the dam washers in place. Can I slightly enlarge the holes in the wheels, or machine the diameter of the nut shafts down a touch? Or is there some trick to getting these bastards together? On another set of these old style wheels I have, we can put the nuts on partially (I have long 4" wheel studs) and then wiggle the wheel out onto the nuts and tighten them down carefully - but these new set of Revolutions, this doesn't work... Any help - please! Clark
  4. Bob Rickner Jr. is the guy who distributes Canley in the US. He does not have a web site but can be contacted at : rfrflyer@hotmail.com and (US) 802-310-2172 Bob's your uncle when you need good bits for your Spit/GT6 and Lotus Elite (2nd gen). Very nice gentleman to deal with. Clark
  5. The lessons learned from this investigation are these: 1- standard vertical links are all drilled out to facilitate lubing the trunion and this weakens them. 2- racing (particularly GT6s) will eventually break these at the top of the threads for the trunion. 3- racing a GT6 on 8" wide slicks will really load them ! 4- undrilled v links are available (Canley) and are much stronger but the trunion must be manually greased. 5- trunion free v link assemblies (Canley) solve the breaking problems, but will require some maintenance to keep the rose joint at the bottom clean. 6- I have found a US distributor for Canley parts, and other great Triumph bespoke parts, and am buying a trunion free set of v links plus some steel axles and other front end special bits. Thanks for everyone's input. I will feel a bit more confident pushing hard into corners this season Clark
  6. Thanks guys - I have found a source for these units in the US and he has been using them on several different racing applications for a number of years with no failures. I don't want to have a failure like my fellow GT6 racer at Road America last fall - it was a mess.
  7. sorry about all the ebay crap - I thought I was just posting the image… how can I edit my post?
  8. Anyone tried these - or have any experience with them? (Copied off ebay) http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9648&start=275 Edit by Nick some pics here without the ebay crap (the rest of that thread is also a cracking read btw - fine example of driveway engineering but serious thread drift)
  9. Steve - part of the challenge of doing this was that the right front wheel house has to be narrowed about 2". It was no problem on my fiberglass hood with composite wheel houses, but the steel originals would pose a challenge (to me). This box was pretty simple to make - cardboard mockup and pattern and a sheet of .030 aluminum some rivets and bob's your uncle…
  10. So this winter (most snow and consistent below freezing weather in over 20 years) I have reworked the rear suspension inboard upper pickup points so I can lower the car another inch. Also, as you can see in the photos, built an air box to feed the Kastner developed velocity stacks (supposed to be good for 6HP), and changed the oil cooler and relocated it up front. Also attached is a shot of theUS magazine that I made the cover of! Taken at Road America at the Kastner Cup Vintage Event last September. Cheers, Clark
  11. You are right John - "dropped spindle" is a term I remember hearing and thought it might apply. BUT, having said that, what I am looking for is a front front upright that has RAISED the spindle (relative to stock OEM parts) so the chassis will sit lower while maintaining the suspension geometry closer to design. I have lowered my car considerably and the front suspension arms are sitting close to full bump angles which is not in the optimum performance range. What most seriously lowered race Spits do is the front suspension inboard pickups are raised on the chassis - which I am trying to avoid, by lowering the spindle…!
  12. Has there ever been any of these made (for lowering the front ride height) Thanks, Clark
  13. Not being an engine builder, but what is a speedy seal and how do they work? Clark if it ain't broke, modify it.
  14. Jeez guys, we fitted an anular throw out on my TR 6 box and just had to drill a couple of holes in the bell housing for the hydraulics. So far (two seasons) so good... Knock wood!
  15. If I do this I will give a full report w/photos. Only thing I don't like is that it lowers the roll center the same amount (according to the suspension geometry program we used to design the new rear set up) RC would still be above ground (2.2") which is still way better than with the original leaf spring design (3-4" below ground). Clark
  16. Right Nik, they are the cast pieces ( modified to take the 240Z half shafts), and the arms are too narrow below the stock drilled bosses to run a bolt through below the bosses. So I will need to "section" out an inch of each arm and weld the bosses back on at the lower height. I do know a couple of expert welders that should be able to do this, but am wondering if anyone has tried welding one of the uprights successfully. Clark
  17. Anyone have experience cutting and shortening the upper arms of the rear upright? I'm considering removing about an inch of height in the arms and welding them back together. This is to facilitate lowering the car more within the limits of my new rear suspension's upper a arm travel. Thanks, Clark
  18. Steve, glad to hear the spirit in your post. And glad to hear good news about Pat. I understand completely about fiddling with these cars - all the work and $ spent on the rear suspension and at the Kastner Cup, Jason O's GT 6 was just as quick through the corners as I was, and he has the mostly stock rear end... Go figure. Kas said what I did is exactly what he would have done if the rules would have allowed it. Anyway, I may do some more work on it this winter... Glad you are BACK! Clark
  19. Cheers Steve. I bet the event got your mind off other issues, and that was a plus hopefully. Your engine problems are indicative of too much complication . IMHO. I've had no trouble with the built motor (other than the rocker failure) relative to the oiling system, with no dry sump or accusump. Just good old Steve Smith oiling manifold system! I ran trouble free at the Kastner Cup weekend with LOTS of 7000 RPM running. Knock on wood... Anyway, glad to see you back at it, however brief. Clark
  20. I saw the film the other day with my daughter ( a video computer graphics designer). She thought it was really exciting and well done from a CG perspective. I enjoyed it as entertainment, but not representative of the "rivalry" as I recall it, but rather a typical Hollywood version. As far as communicating what driving a race car is like, it didn't work at all. Too much quick editing and sped up unrecognizable action. Le Mans was FAR better at communicating this (IMHO). "Rush" is a film for the masses that should do very well dramatizing F1 racing. Not my cup of tea. Clark
  21. After talking to my engine builder we decide to add another half quart and the problem seems to have gone away. Recent run at our club track showed a very slight dip on entry to a sharp left hander while still under braking. Dropped 5-6lb for about 1 sec. On other left handers where I'm not trail braking,there's no drop (showing on the gauge on the video) Worst part of the big National race was that I corded a new set of Hoosier slicks ($1000) due to bad advice on set up. I was using the same set up that worked fine on the Goodyears that were the same spec. (bias ply, cantilever sidewall 20X8X13) I leave next week for Road America - my first vintage race at the invite of Kas Kastner with a new set of vintage legal Hoosiers ($$) - hopefully I will have the set up right this time, after much discussion with Hoosier and other racers... Of course I am also concerned about driving the old girl at 130MPH (7000rpm/3.26 rear end) - RA is fast if you have the motor and the chassis to handle it. Clark
  22. No accusump. I'll see if I can find a photo of the sump baffles. You guys are making me nervous... Clark
  23. John, thought I replied to this yesterday, but it musta got lost... We did fabricate a baffle box around the pick up with trap doors. The same design my engine builder has used for years on his racing Spits... So, go figure. Clark
  24. Steve, the oil pressure has always dipped a bit on left handers, but I've never noticed it going below 35lb or so. What do you think is causing that? (Using your oiling manifold/distribution design) 7000RPM is just me worrying about my stock crank. No rev limiter, as you notice I run a bit over every now and then... The link should work now (does for me) Clark.
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