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  1. Today
  2. Health.....

    Take Care and get well soon. Martin
  3. Health.....

    Best O’luck Bud. Hospitals, never fun. Heal quick C
  4. Yesterday
  5. Health.....

    It got postponed....... it's tomorrow Nick
  6. Yes, looks like more fun, but quite a lot of the Arosa manifold is plastic...... Nick
  7. Isn't this a better way, probaly done best in the open, on a damp day, as it could start forest fires! Or garage and house fires!
  8. Cleaning out the inlet manifold on my L322 RR TD6 was one of the dirtiest jobs I have ever undertaken on a vehicle. It was full of soot and made a right mess. I fitted an EGR blanking plate and folded over the vacuum pipe with a ball bearing in it all tied in with a cable tie. Luckily no electronic disasters on that one. Adrian
  9. Last week
  10. Nick & Chris's Gt6 Mk 3

    Really fantastic work the pair of you, remember when I did my 67 sprite , I changed every panel on the car except the boot unlike you I didn't make them. so well done looking forward to the finished article cheers phil
  11. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Unlike GT6s, Dolomites aren't prone to stub axle flexing whilst on full steering lock, which I suspect is because the Dolomites have shorter stub axles? Ian. PS How do you get lines of text to stay together?
  12. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    As a long time GT6 owner I had excessive pedal travel from caliper piston push back due to worn hub bearing runout and spindle flex which was pushing the caliper pistons back into the calip[ers not allowing the pads to sit close to the roters. Just something to check. Rear brake wheel cylinders need a little residual pressure to kreep the piston out but not dragging . About 5 to 10 psi . Disc/drum systems have it in the master cylimder outlet or a pressure valve. Wilwood has inline valves in varing pressures.Just a couple of things that have helped me improve pedal travel.
  13. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Yes thanks, that is a good point, one I am aware of. I'll try and explain why the change of BMC is desirable...... The Ford calipers are indeed single piston sliding, there are three piston sizes across the range, 48, 54 and 60mm diameter. The ones I am using are for a Sierra so are 54mm. Dolomites have drum brakes on the back. Sprints have much bigger shoes and wheel cylinder bore size than the others. Later Dolomites and Sprints with dual circuits have a softer pedal (more travel). On Dolomites with single line brakes the Sierra calipers are fine but those with dual circuit brakes have noticeably more brake pedal travel and (with its bigger wheel cylinders) this is more pronounced on dual circuit Sprints. Changing to a 22.2mm bore BMC gives "normal" travel or pedal feel, i.e. like standard single line brakes. Also, by way of a reference point, Ford Sierras had 22mm bore BMCs for the disc/drum models. thanks, Ian.
  14. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Is the Ford Sierra front caliper a single piston sliding caliper? The larger diameter M Cyl will send a larger volume of fluid at a lower pressure to the calipers. The larger volume may not be needed and the reduced pressure may not be desireable.. Do your calculations. I always liked the Dolomite but unfortunately not sold here. We got the Marina instead
  15. Off-roading Mods

    Anyone here into off-roading? I would like to replace the tires on my rig, a 2012 Ford F150 XLT. Are Nitto tires highly recommended? What specific mud tires can you recommend?
  16. Workshop Designs

    Yes, a comfortable workshop should have the same conditions as your living room, esp. if your old dad will sopend time there. A watchmakers workshop will be a bit different from garage, with wet cars, spilt coolant, exhaust and petrol fumes, which are further reasons for good ventilation! But even a living room needs ventilations as you must know, given your expertise, which also menas that you are not seeking advice on the build but of the comforts it should contain. Does your dad work standing or sitting? A warm floor to stand on, and a comfortable chair - but then he probaly already has one that he works from if that's his practice, but for standing the height is critical for comfort. Whatever the activity a BIG work bench, with LOTS of storage space. A watchmaker probably needs small drawers, rather than big cupboards. A good light, esp. over the bench, so fluorescent as above. I just bought myself an Anglepoise type lamp, that I have mounted IN the bench, by drilling a hole for the stem, that has a large magnifying glass in the shade, so that I can position it over fine work and look through the lens at it, in optimal lighting. A sink! Can be nice to wash the hands before you go back into the house, but even better if there is a power supply (not next the sink, but you know that too) for tea/coffee as required. An intercom! I suppose today, 'er indoors could ring you up on the mobile when supper's ready, but a dedicated channel easier. A baby monitor can work like a 2-way radio, and some can include video one way. John
  17. Workshop Designs

    Good question, while not a luddite, I'm not certain he's embraced the internet sufficiently to want a connection in there just yet. He doesn't currently own an internet connected device other than the household PC... There will be plenty of power so chucking in a network cable should be peanuts really. I like the idea of sealed ip rated light fittings, much easier for cleaning & gives a sense of purpose to a room.
  18. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Okay did have done a bit more. Brake master cylinder..... I am upgrading to a bigger bore of 22.2mm (7/8"). To this end I have acquired an 80s Saab 900 BMC. This looks exactly the same as the original Sprint one, except that the brake unions are fitted in the other side, which is good news as this makes them more accessible and further good news is that the Sprint's reservoir fits. However, if I can find one I am tempted to use a Saab reservoir because this has an outlet for clutch hydraulics. The change of BMC is necessary because I am going to use Ford Sierra front calipers as part of a conversion to vented brakes. Discs are VW Golf GTi mark one 239mm diameter. Ian.
  19. Workshop Designs

    Internet Access from the workshop? Will the house Wifi reach? Alan
  20. Workshop Designs

    My garage is cold and drafty. I like your idea of a well insulated and heated workshop :-) The one thing I like most in the workshop is light, and plenty of it. I prefer lights from different angles, both ceiling mounted light but also on the walls, so you don't shadow for yourself. So lightning:, armatures like the one pictured. Plenty of them both on the wall and ceiling. I prefer the closed type as they are easier to clean. For the workbench it must be accompanied by a swiveling light. Cheers Nick
  21. Workshop Designs

    Difficult to convey on my phone last night, but I do have some idea of what I'm talking about with this! I'm a building services engineer by trade so have experience with similar problems (have designed systems for labs and archives) and have access to software to do condensation analysis, so I'm hopeful we won't end up with anything horrendous. I appreciate the help and advice, but I remain hopeful that the strategy of building tight and being able to control the ventilation will be the key to making a warm space work such that when it cools you won't have issues with condensation. The reason why I'm not sold on the open shed route is the idea that heating this just seems a bit wasteful. As John has alluded to, open sheds are never going to be particularly comfy all year round and that's why I'm thinking about going a different route. Anyway, what sort of layouts do you guys have? standing or seated benches, any good lighting tricks?
  22. Workshop Designs

    Sounds like you need the advice of a good builder or architect. A workshop that will be appointed as well as a domestic room, and lined with plaster board needs a vapour barrier between the room lining and the outer insulation. This plastic/foil film should be on the warm side of the insulation, or else the vaour will condense on the cold side and give you wet walls and floors. Much simpler having a near open brick-built shed! BUt then your dad won't be confortable sitting doing his clock making in an open shed. John
  23. Workshop Designs

    I'm stressing air tightness of the construction so that ventilation can be controlled. Through windows and possibly an extract fan, but in general making it air tight doesn't prevent good levels of ventilation, just the unwanted stuff (that can bring moisture in). There should be minimal moisture ingress, basically latent gains off people, wet shoes and any brews. He's got a dehumidifier so that should deal with any moisture that gets in and I'm suggesting plaster board walls to give some humidity buffering capabilities to reduce condensation issues. I agree that it's tricky to combat condensation issues in what is likely to be an intermittently heated space, but my thought is that you build it airtight and can then control the ventilation levels rather than make it leaky and get what you're given. Although if people don't tend to have condensation issues with well ventilated spaced that they hear and let go cold then l'll have a re think
  24. canems ecu

    Probably 6 needs more air. But really you need to balance the lot. All 6 need to be pulling exactly the same amount of air at idle and pick up at the same time/open equally as the throttle is opened.
  25. Workshop Designs

    Airtightness? No! Strong recipe for condensation and all that that implies - ask any ventilation engineer (not me) I live in nearly the dampest part of the UK, and my garage is water tight, but with very ill-fitting doors, so the wind whistles through. And although in winter I use a butane powered space heater, I get NO condensation or surface rusting. Warm air that I or my heater exhale is loaded with water vapour, that will condense on a cold metal surface as soon as it cools. When a car cames in that is wet with rain, it drips onto the floor, so that is damp, but the cold air blowing through is dry, sucks it up and dries it out. Ventilation is the most imporatnt factor in keeping tools and parts rust free, not the reverse, "airtightness" John PS Oh! zetecspit got there first! I could have said Plus one for ventilatuion and left it at that!
  26. canems ecu

    That was my next question, no6 seems to be the problem one, I was thinking of letting a little more air through on the butterfly , would that work? Is it better to be slightly lean on tickover ? Or could I put a hotter plug in no6 Cheers Phil
  27. Workshop Designs

    You say airtightness, but the key to dry space is good ventilation. And of course keeping the wet stuff out in the first place. Maybe some insulation will help, but worth trying to position the workshop so it catches the sun. My garage does and it makes a huge difference when the sun is out, even in the winter. A good damproof membrane will be needed under the floor to stop damp ingress that way. Plenty of windows, decent electrics and if you can arrange it, decent heating.
  28. My dad is looking at building a modest new workshop in his garden. This will be really light engineering stuff, a small lathe, mill and drill press. The main activities will be related to clock and watch repair, rather than the kind of activities undertaken on here, although I'm hoping to gain use for the odd bit of machining once my life allows work to resume on the car. My starting points are that good insulation and airtightness will help keep it comfortable and combat rusting of tools & that you can never have too much light. But I'm a great believer in learning from other peoples mistake where possible, so though here is a good place to ask about everyone's workshop experiences, good and bad. So fire away, what features of your working spaces work well, what doesn't, what would you want in an ideal world?
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