Hamish Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Hi guys please let me know if I’m being a numpty with the baffle plate fitting. it’s a TR3a alloy sump with a stainless baffle plate / windage tray. And no fitting instructions. I have checked it’s not porous. it looks to fit on a slight ledge machined into the sump. There are also casting lugs below this with holes for screws. I didn’t want the tray rattling about on the sump lip so I have fitted the screws. but I didn’t want the screws undoing and creating damage in the oil system. I have locktited the screws and riveted an Ali tab over the screws to stop them popping out even if they do work loose. I thought of lock wire but the fittings are quite small. have I done a daft / risky thing ? or do you think it’s an ok risk reduction system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 That ought to hold it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Belt, braces and hands in your pockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hello, All of the above. I have a friend who races one with an alloy sump. I will ask him what he did. Regards, Michael. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Always questing for perfection, I would use those rivets, plus one or two more, to hold vertical baffles below the tray, to inhibit surge in the sump. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 3 minutes ago, JohnD said: Always questing for perfection, I would use those rivets, plus one or two more, to hold vertical baffles below the tray, to inhibit surge in the sump. John My experience is the same a John's and vertical baffles to stop oil surge on braking and cornering are the most effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Like this (for a six) : http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/8530-sump-oil-baffle-cad-design/&tab=comments#comment-114485 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 I had thought of that but the cut out for the oil pick up is quite big 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Hello Hamish, I asked my "team owner" what he did on his and he said the engine builder fitted it (and had to repair it also) so no help there! Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Thanks for checking. Racetorations do a disc style pick up but it’s daft money. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr3-c4/tr3-oil-system-c648/oil-pumps-c653/racetorations-track-day-competition-oil-pump-4-cyl-1-only-p1035 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 That is a ridiculously expensive pump. However the photo of their baffle design is quite interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 But of an update. the Ali sump is painted - no reason apart from personal aesthetics. found the oil pump pick up was missing it’s tube gauze filter later found in the sump - now robustly soldered back in place. Admittedly I have been cranking the car to test the low oil pressure warning light and after new sump fitting but all this cranking with the LT lead off the coil - drenched my plugs. came to start it on Sunday and it was not firing at all, thus plugs getting even wetter-You know that feeling - you have done loads of little jobs. Oil warning light- rad fan warning light, new sump. Oil pump gauze repair etc then it doesn’t start Damn it- Swapped everything ignition wise I even had a spare cap and bright red accuspark leads - but it was the plugs- once changed - leaving the garish cap and leads on - it fired and the richness smoke quickly cleared. monday fresh v power fuel and tyre pressures adjusted - the first drive since the <1mile drive to mot station and back 20/11/20. the car went brilliantly. just need to watch out for soaked plugs !!! Should have taken them out as well I now learn. it also appears the the green spark plug co don’t have a stock of my preferred ngk BP6HS So where to buy genuine plugs ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 Forgot the pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 That looks smart. Soaked plugs - yep, been there. Like you say I now take the plugs out before turning it over if I'm doing that sort of thing. Interested to hear of any other decent plug suppliers. or plug options as those are my current preferred option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Bottoms of the pistons are still nice and clean...... I like Bosch WR7DTC (W7DTC for non resistive) which are getting somewhat hard to find in the general market but I’m told are still available from the GSK.... Never had any of these refuse to work after a soaking..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Nick Jones said: I like Bosch WR7DTC (W7DTC for non resistive) which are getting somewhat hard to find in the general market but I’m told are still available from the GSK.... Never had any of these refuse to work after a soaking..... Interesting.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 14 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Bottoms of the pistons are still nice and clean...... I like Bosch WR7DTC (W7DTC for non resistive) which are getting somewhat hard to find in the general market but I’m told are still available from the GSK.... Never had any of these refuse to work after a soaking..... Think they are ok for the likes of tr6 at 3/4” but my wet liner 3a need 1/2” reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 7 minutes ago, Hamish said: but my wet liner 3a need 1/2” reach Ah..... yes...... forgot about them needing short reach plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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