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2500 6 cylinder megajolt trigger wheel


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After much searching, I've bought one from US, with the connector [before you posted Spider].

 

So, I'm on track now:

- Trigger wheel being made to bolt onto the non-viscous fan pulley.

- Fan replaced by 14" electric push fan.

- EDIS6 on it's way from US.

- Coilpack and crank sensor on it's way from UK (Ford Explorer - the guy checked 3 different places for EDIS6 and couldn't find it).

- Megajolt/E with MAP sensor.

 

New loom in place, just need to finish off with the end points (EDIS, Coilpack, crank sensor, etc.) when I've got them, and made the crank sensor bracket etc.

 

Does anyone have a suitable base map for a fast road 2500?

 

MG86 (late 2.5 pi) engine number, and potentially late PI 125bhp cam

219016 "2500S" head.

Long HS6 Manifold, but with HIF44 carbs (Discovery V8 carbs)

Pipercross PX600 foam filter with stub stacks

6-3-1 tubular manifold with Chris Witor Super Sport exhaust

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Measured on car to be 88.3mm, which appears to be very close to stock:

3.476"

I'm fairly sure the block has been skimmed slightly, as the engine number is very very faint (pic attached), so I'm not sure if the previous owner has followed Chris Witors old advice of deck the block so pistons sit flush, or even 10thou proud of the block?

IMG_20200728_215906.jpg

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The block has had a skim but probably not more than 5 thou looking at that. Pistons are about 20 thou down from the deck at TDC usually.

10 thou pop up would be brave on a 2.5. Probably too brave. I have 5 thou on the Vitesse (2L) which was particularly because I wanted to loose the fire rings.

Yes, standard thickness head so CR will be around 8.5:1 rather than 9.5:1

Actually not a bad thing with the 125 cam as it’s very boring timing means it’s a bit of a pinker with modern fuel at 9.5:1. Very torquey low down, but all over by 4500. That cam also has a fair amount of lift for an OE one and a bit of a tendency to eat followers.

I’ll pop a timing map up when at at the computer but note that it’ll be an MS one rather than MJ so the axes will be reversed.

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3 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

The block has had a skim but probably not more than 5 thou looking at that. Pistons are about 20 thou down from the deck at TDC usually.

10 thou pop up would be brave on a 2.5. Probably too brave. I have 5 thou on the Vitesse (2L) which was particularly because I wanted to loose the fire rings.

Yes, standard thickness head so CR will be around 8.5:1 rather than 9.5:1

Actually not a bad thing with the 125 cam as it’s very boring timing means it’s a bit of a pinker with modern fuel at 9.5:1. Very torquey low down, but all over by 4500. That cam also has a fair amount of lift for an OE one and a bit of a tendency to eat followers.

Well, I'm assuming a 125 cam, as I believe that's what the engine block is. Could be anything in reality! Is there a way to check without taking the head off/cam out?

Never heard any pinking, but I've only ran her on super unleaded - I do that with any classic to avoid the E10 fuel. Also, our other classics are a turbocharged classic Mini running 9:1 comp, and a Reliant Rialto with the "yellow top" high compression engine.

It revs quite freely at idle, but not so much on the open road - but since I've owned it, it's generally ran like crap - mismatched carbs with loose poppet valves, worn float valves, restrictive tiny air filters (one blocking the 2 holes on the HIF44 inlet), wrong needles, worn dizzy, poor coil voltage, really slack tappets, badly fitted electric fuel pump struggling and running off the coil power feed (it would make the rev counter dance!) and through house wiring to a switch inside the car..... the list goes on!

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Yeah, cam could be anything, as you say. You can measure the lift if you take the rocker covers off. Not definitive but gives some pointers and narrows things down. You could stick a degree wheel on the crank and measure lift against degrees but I reckon you will struggle to get anything very definite that way also, though again it might narrow things down a bit more.

Revving well unloaded might mean a lighter flywheel, which is definitely good as the standard ones weigh as much as a small planet.

Rest of it sounds a bit gruesome - though with plenty of scope for easy improvement! Some people shouldn’t be allowed tools....

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7 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Yeah, cam could be anything, as you say. You can measure the lift if you take the rocker covers off. Not definitive but gives some pointers and narrows things down. You could stick a degree wheel on the crank and measure lift against degrees but I reckon you will struggle to get anything very definite that way also, though again it might narrow things down a bit more.

Revving well unloaded might mean a lighter flywheel, which is definitely good as the standard ones weigh as much as a small planet.

Rest of it sounds a bit gruesome - though with plenty of scope for easy improvement! Some people shouldn’t be allowed tools....

Ok, might have a go at that. It's an auto, so no lightened flywheel there! Well, actually a VERY light flywheel, with a heavy torque cconverter attached....

Yes, it was bought as a running driving car that was a bit tatty, which was right... if you don't mind how badly it drives. I was driving it thinking "god, this feels slow even for a 2000 auto"... didn't realise it was a 2.5!!

HIF44's now rebuilt, Pipercross PX600 air filter fitted with stubstacks, original fuel pump refitted with all new lines and hoses, and got fed up messing with dizzys (especially after the Lumenition packed up) so decided to go Megajolt. SHOULD run well now once the fuelling is setup.

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Hello All

             I thought I would show you this!

The travels of my Edis6 from Ex Trump Land!

It will NEVER travel that far again!

Tracking details

Hermes UK tracking #H00EKA0002811013

USPS tracking #9400108205496197921726

Global tracking #UPAAC000000134913421

27 Jan 2021

7:20pm

Customs Documentation and Labeling

Erlanger, Kentucky 41025-2501

27 Jan 2021

3:21pm

Processing at the Global Shipping Center

Erlanger, Kentucky 41025-2501

23 Jan 2021

6:23am

Arrived at the Global Shipping Center - Delivered

ERLANGER, KY 41025

22 Jan 2021

10:59pm

In Transit - PROCESSED THROUGH USPS FACILITY

CINCINNATI, OH 45235

22 Jan 2021

12:31am

In Transit - PROCESSED THROUGH USPS FACILITY

ATLANTA, GA 30320

21 Jan 2021

11:16pm

In Transit - ORIGIN ACCEPTANCE

STATHAM, GA 30666

21 Jan 2021

4:15pm

Tracking Details Uploaded

 

21 Jan 2021

11:15am

Tracking Details Uploaded - SHIPPING LBL CREATED USPS AWAITS ITEM

STATHAM, GA 30666

21 Jan 2021

11:14am

Tracking Details Uploaded - PRE-SHIPMENT INFO SENT USPS AWAITS ITEM

STATHAM, GA 30666

21 Jan 2021

4:15pm

Tracking number provided

Roger

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This is the ignition map from my PI post RR session.

308778 cam, gas-flowed head, CR about 9.75:1 (too much for really 95!), TR6 cast manifold and electronic injection (batch fire).  Did pink a bit on warm days especially on 95 fuel, but likely to be fine with your lower CR.

PI 132 post RR.JPG

Note that its MS so the Axes are reversed compared to MJ!

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6 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello All

               My spare Edis6 unit arrived today so not bad about 11 or 12 days (I have had slower from UK suppliers!)

It was about £45 with no extra to pay!

Roger

Hello All

              I have always fancied a Ford Mustang so will make the Vitesse into one(would prefer the V8!)

1994-2001 Ford Mustang 3.8L V6 Ignition Control Module ICM F4ZF-12K072-AC D75

This is the Edis6 I bought from Ex Trump Land

Roger

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On 02/02/2021 at 5:58 PM, Nick Jones said:

This is the ignition map from my PI post RR session.

308778 cam, gas-flowed head, CR about 9.75:1 (too much for really 95!), TR6 cast manifold and electronic injection (batch fire).  Did pink a bit on warm days especially on 95 fuel, but likely to be fine with your lower CR.

PI 132 post RR.JPG

Note that its MS so the Axes are reversed compared to MJ!

Great, thanks! Megajolt also only has 10*10 mapping so I'll have to spread them out a bit somewhere. 

What spark plugs are best? I have BP5ES at the moment. Do I need to go for the resistive style plugs for megajolt? Stick with 5 or go to 6 heat rating? 

I did see mention of Bosch 3 electrode plugs, but didn't see a part number anywhere. 

 

 

Got my EDIS6 from US now. Everything wired up other than the crank sensor. Need the trigger wheel to come so i can mount that 

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Use resistive plugs.

I like multi-electrode - more importantly, so do Triumph engines!

Bosch WR7DTC (triple) are getting hard to find but work well.  More modern and probably easier to find are the WR78 super 4s.  Not yet tried them myself but they come recommended by others.

NGK also do triples BUR6ET (IIRC).  I'd certainly use heat range 6 rather than 5 (except maybe on a PI with linkage issues or going to the Alps!)

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23 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Bosch WR7DTC (triple) are getting hard to find but work well.  More modern and probably easier to find are the WR78 super 4s.  Not yet tried them myself but they come recommended by others.

Hello 

          I think these are what I have used in Spitty for 2 years with no problems(cheaper than the old 3 prong ones! progress?)

Roger

ps even daft enough to buy a spare set!(still in the boxes!)

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14 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Use resistive plugs.

I like multi-electrode - more importantly, so do Triumph engines!

Bosch WR7DTC (triple) are getting hard to find but work well.  More modern and probably easier to find are the WR78 super 4s.  Not yet tried them myself but they come recommended by others.

NGK also do triples BUR6ET (IIRC).  I'd certainly use heat range 6 rather than 5 (except maybe on a PI with linkage issues or going to the Alps!)

Looks like you can still get the WR7DTC from a Porsche shop at a decent price:

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod2069/Porsche-928GTS-and-968-Spark-Plug-WR7DTC/#2069

I did use WR78's in my Mini years ago, but they didn't seem to play nice, so went back to NGK. I also tried to stay away from Bosch plugs, as the Beetle used to fowl them up once and that was the end of them - switching to NGK plugs fixed the issue completely.

Although these days I keep getting NGK's fail in the Mini - seems like once they get a bit flooded they quickly seem to crap out after. Maybe not as well made as they once were?

What gap do you use with the WR7DTC? I will probably give these a try if you have good results with them!

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16 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello 

          I think these are what I have used in Spitty for 2 years with no problems(cheaper than the old 3 prong ones! progress?)

Roger

ps even daft enough to buy a spare set!(still in the boxes!)

Spare set Roger????

I have about 50 sat at home, as a just in case! But then I still hope to have at least a good 50 years in me yet, so better too many than not enough?

Phil

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4 hours ago, Ian2000t said:

Although these days I keep getting NGK's fail in the Mini - seems like once they get a bit flooded they quickly seem to crap out after. Maybe not as well made as they once were?

I abandoned NGKs some years ago for exactly this reason. Once they’ve got wet they are dead and nothing brings them back. First discovered in a modern (Nissan Primera GT) though I didn’t realise the problem at the time, but several times since, most recently in my PI while trying to make the Lucas squirty stuff work, when it became very clear what the issue was. The Bosch ones didn’t seem to care.

4 hours ago, Ian2000t said:

What gap do you use with the WR7DTC?

Whatever it is they come with. Seems to work just fine with the EDIS hardware.

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