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21 hours ago, Radioactive Man said:

Just thinking, a 19mm sockets probably a very tight fit at best given the style of wheels.  Wonder if I should buy studs with an internal hex head rather than conventional M12 nuts.

A local chappie had that issue with some D1 wheels. He got "tuner" nuts, probably off fleabay.

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My solution to the problem of fitting the oil cooler. Top mounted below the water rad so there is no mutual interference and bottom mount doubles up as a baffle to to keep the low pressure area behind

Had to go shopping for some bits needed for dinner.  Cant get much in the boot... Liking how she's looking now. Just need the summer to hurry up.

Hello Ian                I would make the key a better fit!  8mm does not sound a lot!  plus the tendency pull out of line unless you use 2 hands 1 on the tee bar and 1 on the socket end. So

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3 hours ago, zetecspit said:

A local chappie had that issue with some D1 wheels. He got "tuner" nuts, probably off fleabay.

That’s what I am thinking, reckon even a slim 19mm socket will be tight.  Prob not fit.   Socket on a standard nut has little clearance.

will have a look sometime next week.  Just ended up having my appendix out last night so feet up for a little while.

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32 minutes ago, Radioactive Man said:

That’s what I am thinking, reckon even a slim 19mm socket will be tight.  Prob not fit.   Socket on a standard nut has little clearance.

will have a look sometime next week.  Just ended up having my appendix out last night so feet up for a little while.

Had that done 12 years ago, after the doctors wasted weeks saying the pain would probably just go away. Until it burst, and that was really no fun at all. Take it easy!

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Thanks... some time to plan car upgrades.

Started feeling ill on Thursday night.

Doctors were the complete opposite for me, had a video conference Sat morning, went to hospital about 2:45 yesterday, in theatre around 11 last night.  I was feeling pretty battered, just came out the blue pretty much.

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Ouch! Dealt with promptly though, which is very good and should mean a quick recovery.

Our family experience is like Clive’s. It ain’t appendicitis until it’s peritonitis... He survived but suffered far more than necessary.

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4 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

               Glad to hear you are ok.

I suppose giving me a lift with these paving slabs is out of the question then? (only 2 x 2,s but old type thick ones!)

Roger

:biggrin:

And when you've done that our wall just fell over into the neighbours and I could do with a hand too

20210117_161517.thumb.jpg.f5a1f9f193c3aed557b088fc254ea950.jpg

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2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

               Glad to hear you are ok.

I suppose giving me a lift with these paving slabs is out of the question then? (only 2 x 2,s but old type thick ones!)

Roger

Good job there not 3 x 2s!

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Feeling back to normal or as normal as I ever was.

Tuner nuts arrived yesterday.  With the extra 10mm of stud length for the Freelander studs then the stud will take up about 1/3rd of the available space to insert the spline drive key.  Thinking about whipping 4mm or so of the length of the stud so as to get the full engagement of the key.  Is this worthwhile doing?

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1 hour ago, Radioactive Man said:

Feeling back to normal or as normal as I ever was.

:smile:  Quick work! 

A tribute to swift, decisive and skilled action from the NHS as well as your natural resilience :thumbsup:

1 hour ago, Radioactive Man said:

Thinking about whipping 4mm or so of the length of the stud so as to get the full engagement of the key.  Is this worthwhile doing?

Depends what size key and how much engagement you get now?

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Hello Ian

               Count how many turns it takes from just started to tight.

I would want Very very minimum of 8 (12mm) but really 10 to 12   (1 1/2  of the stud diameter)

Roger

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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

A tribute to swift, decisive and skilled action from the NHS as well as your natural resilience :thumbsup:

Staff within the hospital were brilliant given all the stress the NHS currently has.  

1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

Depends what size key and how much engagement you get now?

The socket side is 12mm deep and I would have about 8mm of engagement.  Its a 10 point star about 14mm across.  

 

6 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

               Count how many turns it takes from just started to tight.

I would want Very very minimum of 8 (12mm) but really 10 to 12   (1 1/2  of the stud diameter)

Roger

If I lopped the 4mm off that would have the stud flush with the end of the internal thread of the nut.  Shouldn't be an issue as there is about 24mm of thread.  Would only cut them down to be flush.

Just wondering if its making work for the sake of making work...

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30 minutes ago, Radioactive Man said:

Just wondering if its making work for the sake of making work.

Hello Ian

               I would make the key a better fit!  8mm does not sound a lot!  plus the tendency pull out of line unless you use 2 hands 1 on the tee bar and 1 on the socket end.

So you would have to be on your knees!

An extension with a hole though it would be best and 2 hands

like this but shorter.

 BRITOOL 1/2" DRIVE SOCKET EXTENSION BAR E98 | eBay

Roger

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11 minutes ago, Radioactive Man said:

So thats an extra 10hp just by the application of red paint.  New stainless pistons as well.  Looking forwards to putting it all back together at the weekend.

IMG_2889.jpg

Hello Ian

              Chequer  tape down the sides next and a pair of dice swinging from the mirror? and to complete the picture the Nylon Rally jacket with the stripes on the arms?(good for at least another 10mph!)

Roger

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9 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

              Chequer  tape down the sides next and a pair of dice swinging from the mirror? and to complete the picture the Nylon Rally jacket with the stripes on the arms?(good for at least another 10mph!)

Roger

Ahh, those were the days :laugh:

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Hi all

Can you give me a clue which way the felt oilseal goes in the front hub.  Found the felt is currently onto the bearing side as per photo.  

Don't know why but in my head I feel like the felt should face in, towards the trunnion.

Sorry for the dub question.

IMG_2736.jpg.750262358d8799c4b5711f5d036075e8.jpg

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That is backwards.  The metal ring is supposed to tap into the hub and trap the bearing (loosely trap!).

The snag is that most of the felt rings in most of the bearing kits supplied for many, many years now are just plain wrong.  The metal backing rig is too thin section and too big OD, so they just don't fit and collapse if you try.  They also have too much felt on them, so if you do manage to get one in there it'll stop you adjusting the bearing correctly.  How this issue has persisted for so long I just don't know, suppliers just don't care.  ( I guess we don't yell enough?)

My solution, which is only any good if you have some, is to re-use the original rings and carefully tear off about two thirds thickness of the new felt to use with it.  You can glue the felt to the rings if you wish - it's how they would have been - but I don't bother.  They can't escape.  Just lightly grease the felt.

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Nice Timken wheel bearings to replace the dubious power range bearings.  Refurbed callipers fitted with stainless pistons.  M12 studs on the front fitted.  Mintex M1144 pads so much better than the greenstuff pads.  Greenstuff pads in the bin!
 

Also extra shims fitted to the lower suspension arms.  Need to remeasure to see why difference they make.

Put my adjustable GAZ dampers on the back.

Perhaps sort the toe out next weekend.

Need to sort the bigger wheel studs out for the rear at some point as well. @rogerguzzii will have to call round at some point to pick up spare wheel studs from you if that’s ok.

 

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38 minutes ago, Radioactive Man said:

Need to sort the bigger wheel studs out for the rear at some point as well. @rogerguzzii will have to call round at some point to pick up spare wheel studs from you if that’s ok.

 

Hello Ian

              That's ok when ever you like.

I have had my 1st vaccine dose but still self isolating !

Roger

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