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So I bought this at the end of August, I think it was restored around 2010 looking at the history that came with the car.  Over the last 5 years of ownership the previous owner only put 800 miles on it which is a bit of a shame as I think cars should be driven and enjoyed.  Perhaps the nicest car of my own I have owned for a long time.  Spent the last 10 years trialing old Land Rovers and to be honest got fed up of continually shovelling mud up of the drive!

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Overall its in pretty good nick but there are a few jobs need to be done and I thought I might as well start a thread - make sure I get the jobs done.

When i drove back from buying the overdrive gradually became slower and slower to switch out of overdrive, eventually it died altogether and wouldn't switch in our out.  Old solenoid didnt look great.

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One new solenoid and an oil change and its looking like that's fixed.  First job done. 

Oneday I will take a look to see if I can work out why the old one gave up the ghost perhaps.  Also found the insulation on one of the wires up the gearstick was breaking down, found some heatshrink to make a slightly better repair that the insulation tape that had been put on in the past.  As the wiring loom in my last Land Rover caught fire I wasnt so happy to see bare copper!

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Clutch was slipping a little, that's a job I wasn't confident to do so I put it into a garage close to work to get that done.  I wish I had perhaps done it now but there will be other chances to get oily I am sure.

The UJ on one of the driveshafts is knocking.  Annoying it appears to be a part the PO put on recently.  Attacking it with a large screwdriver shows some movement in the yoke. Not sure what the best course of action is.  New OJ or perhaps try the oversize circlips from someone like Canley Classics?  Perhaps the circlips might be worth doing first to see if that makes a difference?

 

 

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Had to go shopping for some bits needed for dinner.  Cant get much in the boot... Liking how she's looking now. Just need the summer to hurry up.

That is a very tidy car Richard by the way

Never really understood the apetite in the classic car market for the sex shop look, looks much better now to my eyes at least.

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Sounds like you are getting a “typical faults” tour.

The UJ knock is common and indicates one of the yokes is slightly splayed. Can be resolved, as you say, with thicker circlips or shims. Finding those is a bigger challenge that fitting them.

With such low miles in the last few years, and possibly even since the resto, I reckon some bugs are to be expected. Late 1500 is a very useable car, especially with overdrive.

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Hello Ian

               I have a selection of circlips to fit the UJ,s  so pop one out and mic it up and I will see if I have a thicker one!

What I have also done is fit a thin shim washer under the circlip to get it nice and tight(may have a selection of them) will have to check against a spare UJ

As you know I only live around the corner from you 

Roger (TSSC run)

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Hi Roger, thanks for the offer, any help is appreciated!  I will see if I can pull a circlip out and measure it up.  Will have a look and get back to you, your offer is welcome.  Would be good to catch up for sure as we are neighbours pretty much!

Nick, I think there are a few jobs to be done for sure, I am creating a bit of a list at the moment. 

Rear of the car sits higher than the front, not sure if the front springs are worn or the rear isnt right.  Looking at the rear spring it appears to be new, I think it perhaps came from GB springs.  I feel like the car sits perhaps an inch or so higher at the rear than perhaps it should.  Not sure why!

Oil light, doesnt work.

Main beam flash doesn't work but main beam does.

Wipers perhaps wired back to front so come on fast speed then slow speed on second position of switch. 

Tyres are like new... but 10 years old so perhaps not the best in terms of date. 

Hood fitting, one popper wont behave... :)

I think there are other bits also.  

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Hello Ian

               If the oil light does not work how do you know you have oil pressure over 6 or 7 psi (then I suppose it would have seized up by now) try the wire to earth to check lamp and wiring(i may have one or 2 about)

I think I have an old switch unit if yours is broken.

10 Year old tyres I would change pronto as the first cold wet corner taken at a bit of speed will see you nice shiny car a bit bent! they would be ok In Spain and the heat Maybe?

Wipers what speed do they go when you hold the intermittent down? 

Put a bag or 2 of sand in the boot to settle it as if not done much mileage may not have settled? Ours sat a bit high for a while when I fitted a new spring.

Roger

ps I have a complete driveshaft which came off Spitty when I fitted new ones as I had some new ones and yokes came loose(CR*P) but the replacements I bought from Fittchets as so much better made and he said they are made in the Midlands and to my old Engineer eyes look much better made!

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Thanks for the thoughts Roger.  I am hoping there is some oil pressure.  It wasn't something i noticed until after driving it back from Wakefield to Hagley so I put about 130 miles on it...  want to get it working though as it annoys me when little things aren't right and next time I might not be so lucky!

Tyres are priority to be honest.  I am beating myself up though as I like the look of the old Dunlop Alloys, Minilights etc and cant decide if I drop for some new wheels and tyres or just go with the tyres.  Part of me likes seeing it on skinny 155s, another part of me likes the idea of the different wheels.  Something I need to resolve quickly.

Numberplate - its not you.  It is on the list but further down behind clunking UJ and dodgy tyres.  I think the PO has glues some shiny bathroom fitting type thing over the plastic numberplate screws so its worse as its a bit "bling".

Thanks for the sand tip.  Will give that a go.  I think that may help - I cant find a receipt for the spring but it looks pretty new and given the miles the car has covered over the last years perhaps thats the issue.  Would like the car to sit lower at the back.  I was thinking about a lowering block but the sand trick is worth a go first.

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Hallo Ian

              We have Minilites on Spitty I like them with I think 175/70/13 which are as near as dam it the same O/D as 155/80/13 but lots of choice as common to moderns

We have Avon,s forgot the number but cheapish and never given a moment

 I think they are the earlier version of these(cheap and good and quiet)

 https://www.national.co.uk/tyres/brand/avon/zt5/?SKU=1756513AV5T&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Catch All&utm_term=4576442275736894&utm_content=UK_Generic_PLA_Catch All_Exact&gclid=CNjk0uPIrewCFUJUGwodGxMCbQ&gclsrc=ds

Roger

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Hello Ian

              I had a sort out of circlips and I have.

46 47 49 50 57 58 59 60 61 64 thou thicknesses 

So see what you need and do not forget you always put 2 thicker or thinner ones in if you do not have 1 thicker one!

The light control unit I have seems to have a broken wire to headlight bit!

The best advice is to rewire the headlights via 2 fused relays(I used the ones with built in fuse holder) so the switch carries no load just coil circuit and you may get brighter lights as well!

Roger

ps I hope we can get back to doing this next year

 

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Hi Richard, thank you.  Some jobs to do but in the main little things so hopefully no nasty suprises.

The car lived up north, previous owner was in Wakefield and the owner before who did the restoration was not far from Sunderland looking at the receipts.

I am down in the West Midlands, about 10 miles from Birmingham.

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So death trap tyres, replacements ordered, sticking with the skinny 155s on the 4.5 rims for now.  Get the car sorted rather than buying wider wheels etc for now.

Oil pressure light looks like its the pressure switch as the light comes on if you ground the wire.  Small result.  At least i know which bit is duff.

Failed on getting any circlips out the suspect UJ, need a decent pair of circlip pliers so tools stopped play for tonight.

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Hello Ian

                To my eyes that needs a complete strip down  as either as Phil said some needles missing or a Very worn uj!

I would not be happy with that until I had seen inside but I would just buy 2 new good quality uj,s you only want to do it once ask me how I know?

Plus at that stage I would pull the hubs off an check driveshaft bearings and fit quality ones if not good again ask me how I know?

Roger

Ps I have a hub puller in fact 2  1 home made 1 bought type and I could tell you the bearing numbers and seal size

Roger

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It certainly needs attention Roger. 

Looking at the receipts I have the PO bought a UJ from TRGB in Jan 2019, I do not know when it was fitted but the offending joint looks much newer than the other UJ.  Given the car only did 19 miles in the last year its not had much use and I have put around 500 miles on it in total up to the point I noticed the knocking so something is amiss for sure.  No idea what!

I had better get ordering some parts I guess!   Might sound mad but I have never done a wheel bearing but perhaps now is the time to learn.  Always worried I would end up with three wheels on my wagon.  

Just had a look and I dont think there is any play in the wheel rocking it at 12 and 6 oclock so hopefully no wheel bearing issues.

UJ certainly needs to be pulled apart and replaced. 

Any advice and help would be welcome.

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Hello Ian

              You would not feel a wheel bearing by rocking the wheel unless it was really B***ered you would have heard it way before then again ask me how I know?

It is not a big job to remove the complete drive shaft(I have done in an underground carpark is Spain)

But you do need a puller for the hub and hope it is not really really stuck on!

Roger

Ps you welcome to use my workshop for the repair but I cant get the car in(to many and space filled) but repair to the shaft is no problem(he said dreading another uj) still I have 3 on the shelf 2 good ones and one cheap one but still better than yours?

I will look up the bearing numbers and seal best be prepared?

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Hi Roger

I have a workshop manual that I grabbed of Ebay recently, had a read of that last night and in principle... (dangerous presumption) it does not sound to bad to pull the drive shaft off and strip it down.  I think your right, its the best thing to do and a good learning exercise for me that hopefully teaches me a thing or to. 

If I could borrow your puller and brains for when it all goes wrong that would be excellent and very much appreciated.  I reckon I can get the driveshaft at least :) 

Thanks for looking up the numbers.  Who sells good quality parts? In the world of Land Rovers there is some dreadful stuff around!  

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3 hours ago, Radioactive Man said:

In the world of Land Rovers there is some dreadful stuff around!  

Not just Landrover world!

Ironically, one of the best regarded UJs for you application is the Hardy Spicer/GKN listing for the Mk1 Freelander Propshaft.

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Hello Ian

              I have had a rummage and I have the UJ, main outer bearing, outer oil seal.

What I do not have new is the needle roller bearing and the inner seal(that may be ok as there is a dust shield as well!)

So we can do a deal if you like as I do not need all these spare parts(my drive shafts all new with new bearings etc)

I use these people for bearings unless I look on Fleabay for NOS.

I think your UJ is a Bearmach brand as I have one and the end cap looks the same!

Mine are GKN U2/808029 which have the slightly bigger diameter cross pins maybe called heavy duty? (TVF100000 general number!)

The bearing is Koyo Japan. 

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20100082/Major-Branded-B168-Imperial-Drawn-Cup-Open-End-Type-Full-Complement-Needle-Roller-Bearing-1x1-1/4x1/2-inch/product_info.html

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/oil-seal-half-shaft-inner-128978.html?assoc=661590

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TVF100000

Roger

ps I have a complete drive shaft for the O/S (brake plate makes them handed unless you remove the hub and change it)

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