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Pete et al

I have a column switch on my Mk2 GT6.

I find when slowing down, rather than coming out of o/d in 4th and then changing down, I tend to stay in o/d top and then flick out of o/d as I change into third. As the switch is on the right hand side of the column this still only requires two hands.

Sounds more complicated than it is, but it works well and I assume is better for the o/d.

Ian

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When I fitted O/d, I couldn't be bothered with finding the 'correct'  co!umm switch, and earlier experience out me off the feedstock switch ( the wires short out).    So I fitted a switch to the steering wheel.    Its a push on/ push off switch, and is accompanied by a pilot LED, so I don't leave it on in lower gears.      The wiring to it is a 'curly-whirly' so no tangling.   Works well!

John

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On 10/6/2020 at 5:02 PM, thebrookster said:

Cheers Colin, yeah the ground is finally starting to stay still lol.

Yeah, the only bit on the box that is out of spec is the layshaft endfloat, so some new thrust washers needed.

Gearstick control idea is cancelled as of last night, team torpedo have decided to go with the column control (this came with the gearbox, lucky days :biggrin:)

Phil

Hi Phil - Glad to see you've requisitioned the kitchen scullery since your return.  Re above Mike Papworth fitted a 2nd o/d inhibitor switch for me on my MKII Spitfire to give o/d on 2nd -- this really helps fill a gap between 2nd & 3rd where the little 1147 was either screaming it's self silly on long inclines or would bog down & fail to pull in 3rd. I retained the column switch and get a real buzz choreographing the finger flicks changing up from o/d2 to std3. I assume TT want to retain original appearance - but the above mod is under the tunnel & a really sweat little tool in mountainous terrain.

PS Nearly wrecked S's sack trolly moving my project engine - but really need to get it up on a bench or test frame to inspect & recommission - my amatuer fiddling has already discovered that I can't even remove the sump pan - as clutch & end plate are still on and the added internal baffling are fouling end plate & oil pump. Help!

PS 2 - Wigton MC are offering the possibility of container storage at the new club house if you still haven't made progress with the T2000 & need somewhere to stop it decaying into the highland hillside.

 

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3 hours ago, Greta said:

Hi Phil - Glad to see you've requisitioned the kitchen scullery since your return.  Re above Mike Papworth fitted a 2nd o/d inhibitor switch for me on my MKII Spitfire to give o/d on 2nd -- this really helps fill a gap between 2nd & 3rd where the little 1147 was either screaming it's self silly on long inclines or would bog down & fail to pull in 3rd. I retained the column switch and get a real buzz choreographing the finger flicks changing up from o/d2 to std3. I assume TT want to retain original appearance - but the above mod is under the tunnel & a really sweat little tool in mountainous terrain.

PS Nearly wrecked S's sack trolly moving my project engine - but really need to get it up on a bench or test frame to inspect & recommission - my amatuer fiddling has already discovered that I can't even remove the sump pan - as clutch & end plate are still on and the added internal baffling are fouling end plate & oil pump. Help!

PS 2 - Wigton MC are offering the possibility of container storage at the new club house if you still haven't made progress with the T2000 & need somewhere to stop it decaying into the highland hillside.

 

Hello All 

                I did that on our Spitty 1500 and it is great when going up hairpin bends loaded and even in traffic at that funny speed!

I did a write up somewhere?

Roger

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