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So started attacking the front hubs today with the new extended wheel studs purchased from canley classics. I bought 4 to start with to ensure that they are going to work with the nice new alloys I have ordered, just to allow a test on one hub to ensure a correct fit as there pretty pricey. However they simply will not go in! I don’t have a press but have been using a vice and a socket over the end of the stud to try and press it in. But sits method completely sheared my vice into about 4 pieces! They appear to be different to the original, perhaps canley have sent me £16 worth of rubbish? Anyone had this problem or know the best way around it? I’m aware of the landy stud m12 conversion but this would require new special sleeved nuts.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jacob

https://imgur.com/a/AYIlBnj

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They can be really tight.......  If you have some vernier calipers I'd start by measuring and comparing the OD of the splines between old and new.  Assuming they are very close, my non-press method involves a big hammer with the hub face down on a solid surface.  I have a large old 3/4" drive socket with a flat back which I use to support the hub face (stud goes through the drive hole) and big steel punch.  However before engaging "violent mode", I fit the stud in the hole by hand make sure it's straight and twist it with light pressure to see if I can feel it drop a fraction as it finds the grooves left by the previous studs.  If you can find this point it usually goes a bit easier......

May the force be with you......

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Hello Nick

                  Different wheels then!

I never understood the concept of sleeve nuts as the do not self centre and and can bind in the the holes with a bit of road dirt in there on a wild and wet night when you get a puncture!

Give me cones every time .

Knock  on type are ok if tightened up to gorilla tight but you are relying in a shallow Taper and Splines (ok for gearboxes that are hard and lubricated) but dryish and softish?

Roger

ps why are most cars 5 spoke and 5 studs?(big wheels that is)now??

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On 8/31/2020 at 8:58 PM, Nick Jones said:

They can be really tight.......  If you have some vernier calipers I'd start by measuring and comparing the OD of the splines between old and new.  Assuming they are very close, my non-press method involves a big hammer with the hub face down on a solid surface.  I have a large old 3/4" drive socket with a flat back which I use to support the hub face (stud goes through the drive hole) and big steel punch.  However before engaging "violent mode", I fit the stud in the hole by hand make sure it's straight and twist it with light pressure to see if I can feel it drop a fraction as it finds the grooves left by the previous studs.  If you can find this point it usually goes a bit easier......

May the force be with you......

Yeah thanks nick. I’m going to measure the splines but They are not going in so I’m sure they’re too wide. Maybe a bit of filing will solve it. Freelander studs are off the table as that would mean a whole set of sleeved nuts that have just come with my brand new Dunlop D1 alloys. I’ll break the tool of Jeremy Clarkson once I’ve measured and maybe filed.

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Those methods seem a bit forceful.  I've always just slid the studs in and put a lug nut on backwards, perhaps with a few washers to lessen resistance and then tightened them in.  They go in perfectly straight and never takes much force.  If it does I'd look elsewhere for studs.  I think the last thing I'd do is modify an expensive hub to fit a cheep stud, or even vice versa.  Filing off splines may work, and new ones may be cut when pulled in but I think I'd just look elsewhere. Just a thought.

There has to be other vendors of studs, like Doorman etc that have the same specs.  I got mine (12mm) from ezaccessory in N. America, but I don't think they will have your size.

All the best.

 

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