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Mazda gearboxes.......

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Got some time at the lathe yesterday.  Wasn't warm in the garage.....

Made some parts, modified some others.

Neither the right angle drive body of the Mazda sleeve/housing has been touched.  I made a sleeve to match the OD of the angle drive to the ID of the Mazda part (centre, with fibre washer) and a spacer to go between the Mazda cable nut and the body.  The cable nut was machined down.

The gear from the right angle drive has not been modified itself but I made a sleeve to press inside it and machined the ferule from the Mazda cable to press inside that

I shortened the Mazda driveshaft as much as I dared, objective being to get the angle drive tucked down inside the drive housing as much as possible.  About 5mm reduction in the end.  The ferule needed a little fettling to take advantage of this.

And all fitted together

43mm protrusion from the tail casing.  Going to be difficult to reduce further, so hope I don't have to!

Just got to make some new brass thrust plugs for the angle drive gears - the original components looked like they'd been picked at random from someone's "maybe-useful-one-day" pot.  A bit surprising as the angle drive is pretty well made in other respects.

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Have now finished the adapter ring. Quite happy with the way it turned out. There was a certain amount of fettling required for the final fit but once that was done it dropped into place nicely - and,

Hello Nick                  How about a stretched limo look? The Satnav had locked onto this? but the view was worth it and me and the Memsahib had a nice picnic and a nice ice-cream on the

Unmolested box in the background. Easy conversion moves the remote forward the distance between the bolt holes - 104mm. (yellow) I think you could just about get 175mm and retain the original sele

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1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

 I mean phosphor Bronze

I’ve got plenty of brass, but no bronze, phosphor or otherwise.....

Loads are low. The original load plates are pressed steel..... “shimmed” with what look like random washers.

7 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Nice job Nick


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Been wrestling with the rear mount conundrum.  Problematic because the the rear section of the gearbox has no ready-made mounting point - apart from the great box structure on the side for the longitudinal link which I've already cut off because it was no use and in the way.  Problematic because space is really limited.

I had to remove yet more material to make flat-ish landing zones for a V-bracket.  I then had to try and figure out a way of attaching the bracket.  It doesn't need to be massively strong as the shape/layout will do most of the work in the important direction.  Against that, there isn't much material left and what there is is a bit suspect due to shrinkage porosity.

It's also a right knobbly bugger to clamp on the mill to drill and tap......


Ended up with this.  Arrows indicate bolt entry direction.

Part finished bracket.  Really awkward shape and a right sod to create

Fits like so....

.... this is upside down btw... and it will be gaining some horizontal ears to sit on top of this....

One each side bolted to the original mount holes

Coming up with a design that might work is one thing.  Coming up with one that might work and is actually possible to assemble is another.....  I'll be glad when this is done!

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Thanks..... dunno about art though.  If it keeps the gearbox propped where it should be I’ll be happy. 

That hammer is an old mate and veteran of many battles. I did have a count up of the workshop hammer clan at one point and posted a pic. I was a bit surprised by the total count..... but the one in this pic is my first choice for general service and lives in the travelling tool box.

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Some stuff arrived......


Propshaft... which should bolt straight up......:smile:

And a concentric slave, which is going to need "convincing" :confused:

Flywheel is being machined out to take a ball race as a spigot bearing.  Should have that early next week.

IN theory I have nearly everything to sort this.... if only my arm worked..... :ermm:

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23 minutes ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Do you think the ball race makes much of a difference over the bush as a spigot bearing?

Functionally...... not a lot. Packaging wise it works better and I would have had to machine the flywheel anyway. This way the flywheel ends up the same as the Vitesse one, which may (or may not) come in handy at some point. I did initially run the Vitesse with an oilite top hat bush in the flywheel (possible because the W58 has a tiny spigot) but that was looking a bit sorry for itself after 20k

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There has been progress on the mounts...... to the extent that it is self supporting.  Only tacked at this point but it does seem to work. I would like more inclination of the bobbins to increase the self-centering, but it appears to be impossible to do this and come up with a design that ican actually be assembled.  It's on the ragged edge of that now.  I frequently dis the Audi engineers for their service-hostile designs, but this is all my own work..... :pinch:


..... and left

Will try to improve the worst aspects in the final finish - it's never going to be a joy to work on, but hopefully I can knock the cuss-quotient down a little.

I was having a bit of panic about propshaft angles and flange angles which appeared to be absolutely shockingly awful, but after a bit of sketching just now I think I was being dim.  Problem is that the car is sat at a 10º angle, nose down, and allowing for that was too much for my brain cell.  In fact I now think the angles are merely crap, not helped by the diff being 2º nose-down.  TBH there really isn't alot I can do about it anyway.  Now the box is self-supporting I can pick the car up at the front and level it to make things less confusing.

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You have done a great job shortening that gear linkage by so much. I was considering the below to gain 4" back of the extra 8-9". Very interesting to see your solution all completed.

MX5 gearlever.JPG

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10” is the super tough way alright. Anything much over 6” and you have to bin the original mech, which unfortunately includes the gate mechanism and reverse lockout.

I’m winning. Sort of. Can get all gears and the action is nice. Just a bit too easy to get reverse from 5th. Though I tried an unmolested (but undoubtedly well used) shift in a scrapped NA a couple of weeks back, and it was pretty much the same. The NB across the track had a positive block though. Totally different mech on those. Very hard or impossible to shorten those.

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Well doesn't that image look familiar. :)

Really nice work on that tranny Nick, more than I could do for sure.

I see that you didn't want to modify the tunnel cover, but I wonder if matching the stock location with a short straight shifter rather than the long dog-legged version might not be that comfortable?

I moved mine 6" further forward (although that's with a Mazda 1.6 in front of it) to get it exactly where I wanted it.  One result of that also meant moving my handbrake back a touch.  Not a big deal, but it adds to the project and creates another difference from stock.  Overall I see it as a dramatic improvement but if you're trying to keep the stock look I get that too.

Here's how I did mine... https://stevew10.wixsite.com/spit16/blank-2

And here's how I mounted the aft of the tranny.... https://stevew10.wixsite.com/spit16/transmission-mount

Looking forward to the final result, some very cool work there, and what a great gearbox.


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14 hours ago, manana said:

Really nice work on that tranny Nick

Thank you Steve.  Your website was one of my reference sources and I did come really close to following your shift shortening method - was just being stubborn really.  Had I done this as part of the original resto I probably would have, but as a "revisit" on a finished vehicle I'm trying really hard to minimise mods to the car itself.


2 hours ago, Fuelish said:

Well I can only follow in the footsteps of the Masters and hope to emulate 

 Hmm...  well, just keep in mind that in some cases there might be a hint of "don't try this at home" (unless you are as mad as I am):ninja:

Nothing much been happening of late as it's been a bit chilly in the garage (I don't really function under 4ºC).  I have created a prototype gear lever and have started to create the new shift rod (original has neutral switch detents, which will frustrate my intended sealing methods).  All things that don't involve lying on a cold concrete floor you will note!  Going to have to slightly shorten the bearing block for the shift rod as it interferes with the tunnel.  There is spare material though, so not a big deal.

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