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are triumph engines really this rough?


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 Hmmm..... when I went to (finally) install my hybrid cam in 2015, I belatedly checked the followers supplied with it, by Newman, and found they were crowned.......

In their defence, when I rang to query this they were horrified (along the lines of “oh crap, we thought we’d found all of those”) and although it was knocking on 3 years since I’d actually bought them they immediately sent out a set of the (substantially more expensive) EN40 ones, which have been fine.

Excellent recovery!

I think they insist on the EN40 ones for all but the PH1 profiles now.

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Well I'm now in a bit of a pickle.

I went for a newman cam on the recomendations on this site, but it appears they have a new follower supplier who clearly cant make them.

The ones from Canleys looked OK.....but were they? Did they kill the cam?

I've told Newman I wont accept any from their new suppliers, I'm not prepared to be their trst guinea pig!

Bit annoyed that they didnt check the parts before sending or validate the productd being supplied.

I wanted to go with a cam and followers supplied by one company so as to avoid the " you should have used our followers" argument.

Any advice/recomendations?

 

Never had issues like this in the old days.....if you wanted new followers you went to the scrappy and pocketed some.....and I never had any issue with them. Even on a race 850 mini engine I'd use old Ford followers with the block sleeved to accept them....would rev to 8300 no probs.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Steve 13-60 said:

FFS!!!! I'm dooooomed Cap'n
So, the Newman cam and followers arrived today.

Unboxing revealed a nice new cam and 8 followers....4 of which I've rejected!!

4 are as expected, a dull grey finish. The other 4 are shiney with dings and scratches on the cylindrical bit and one hasnt even been faced....you can still see/feel the lathe facing tool spiral marks!!!

Doesnt anyone do proper QA these days?

 

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Hi,

 That does not look very professional. I would have expected much, much better from Newman's as Prior to this I would & have recommend them. Sorry.

I haven't read the rest of the posts but If they do not sort this out within next 24Hrs I will stop recommending their grind technology. Should not have happened.

Sorry.

Iain.
 

Edited by spitfire6
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2 hours ago, Steve 13-60 said:

I wanted to go with a cam and followers supplied by one company so as to avoid the " you should have used our followers" argument.

Any advice/recommendations?

I think the "one company supplies all" is the best way.  The deal with Newman 5 years ago seemed to be that they offered two possible followers. 

The "standard" ones which they buy in from a third party which are probably from the same source that supplies most or even all the other usual suspects.  These are fine for the milder profiles. 

Then the EN40 steel ones which I believe they have made specially for them and won't be available from elsewhere.  These are rather pricier but considered ok for all but the most extreme profiles where you need to bore the block for bigger followers.

In your case, if Newman are unable/unwilling to find you 4 more of acceptable quality, I'm not quite sure what to suggest.  The only other supplier I've bought followers from is Chris Witor  - 2 lots, one for my PI and more recently for my GT6.  The PI went on to do about 6000 fairly hard miles in my ownership with no problems with valve train.  The GT6 is now up to about 700 miles valve train seems fine.

Back in the day, my local reconditioner used to give "used but good condition" followers "a tickle" on his surface grinder and even had a special holder for them.  He was moderately picky about what was big enough for a tickle though.

Hope Newman will sort you out though!

 

 

Edit:

Just in case https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=143352RM

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  • 2 weeks later...

To grind or not to grind?

The new set of followers arrived yesterday and pleased to say they all look good.

So, can now rebuild the motor....but before that I decided to double check the diameters of the crank journals.

Mains are worst case (front) 0.00122" undersize. Others are approx 0.001" undersize.

BE are all approx 0.0067" undersize.

I'll be fitting new shells so am undecided whether its really worth paying out for a regrind?

Just for 0.001"?

Any comments if it'll be ok?

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If they are all round and have no marks then it’s tempting to just go with new shells, especially if you are not intending to use it hard. Normally the middle main is worst as it takes the most thump.

However.....
Certain bearing shells hailing from Israel (yes King/County I’m talking about you) are a touch on the thin side to the tune of about a thou..... which when added to your thou is two thou extra..... It’ll probably work but your hot oil pressure might be rather low.......

Also, I’ve forgotten whether we are on the 1500 or the 1300 now? My experience is that it doesn’t pay to take risks with a 1500....

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Thanks Nick, this the the fast road 1300 I'm talking about now, and do intend to give it some now and then ( it'll be running twin 40s). The 1500 runs fine, but its just a plodder, no zing, I'll keep it for a spare.

I'm going to use the more expensive lead/copper shells from Rimmer/Canley...no idea where they come from though, unless you know where to get better ones from?

However, just checked and its approx £100 for a regrind so having invested so much in it already seems daft not to go for a regrind doesnt it?

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I would agree on the regrind. I would also suggest that the shells are supplied to the regrinder so they size to fit. Currently available tri-metal bearings will be from King/County, unless you sell a kidney and talk to Basil Adams.....

Another thing to discuss with the machine shop are the fillet radii. These are very important on these (rather flexible) cranks as any stress raisers at the edge of the journals tends to lead to cracks and breaks through the webs. Usually between no 4 BE and the rear main or no 1 BE and the front main.  Might even be worth crack testing if reasonably priced, though if still std size you’ll likely be fine.

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I have not done it but I have read about this in the past although i can't find the where.

However it can and has been done and I'm sure someone can provide the details as it's not a straight fit.

I think the Mini shells are slightly too wide so would need machined and there are also issues with the locating tabs and/or the oil feed hole.

Other than that....

However sure there is someone out there with the detail to hand.

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Using Cooper rods complete (not sure exactly which Cooper variant, but I'd assume the S) was considered an upgrade back in the day, so presumably the big end bearings were used too.  I have no idea about the main bearings......  I do vaguely recall something about the tabs......

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Finally got round to having the crank reground and have been offered glacier bearings, but at £60 a set they seem rather expensive.

The grinder says they are genuine old stock, anyone know if they are any good....or at least better than the King/County ones...I'd pay the cost if they are good trimetal ones.

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They’ll be aluminium tin, not tri-metal.

Tri-metal generally regarded as superior for engines that will be worked hard. That said, when I stripped the engine that had been in my Vitesse for 25 years and 70k fairly hard (some very hard actually) miles, that turned out to have Glaciers throughout and in perfect condition. The crank was also perfect.

I don’t know the total mileage of that engine, or how long the bearings had been there but I do know it was in at least 2 cars before mine.....

£60 would be a good price for all the bearings, but a bit on the high side for big ends only....

 

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On 12/1/2020 at 11:28 AM, Steve 13-60 said:

Did some reseach this morning and found a company called XRN Engineering Ltd, 01483861777. Very helpful and do King Trimetals for £17.71 mains and £15.84 BE.

A really good price.....hope thats useful info for anyone.

That is useful, thank you very much! Now I just need to remember it when buying bearings

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On 12/1/2020 at 11:28 AM, Steve 13-60 said:

Did some reseach this morning and found a company called XRN Engineering Ltd, 01483861777. Very helpful and do King Trimetals for £17.71 mains and £15.84 BE.

A really good price.....hope thats useful info for anyone.

You can just ring and order stuff can you? The website says "TRADE ONLY" all over the place. They list County as a supplier so possibly do pistons & rings etc.

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10 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

You can just ring and order stuff can you? The website says "TRADE ONLY" all over the place. They list County as a supplier so possibly do pistons & rings etc.

Hi Pete, yes, no probs. I do have a ltd company I could have used but he didnt seem bothered.

Good service to, ordered yesterday and arrived yesterday....although he has sent BEs for a GK heavy crank not the GE light crank! Doh!

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