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Switching the spring around is a good suggestion. While you are at it, take a careful look at the swivel box as it sounds a bit like the “bad side” is being held while the good side can move as intended.

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3 hours ago, zetecspit said:

You can simply swap the spring around, see if the lean moves to teh other side. That would confirm spring one way or another.

Ok.. that was my next question. If the spring was able to be turned around. 

That's what I'm going to do first. See if it moves the issue. this week I'll get to that. Hopefully that's it. I can get it fixed up easy at a spring shop. Rebend and maybe add a 6th spring like the gt6 version, helper. Would be nice if it was that. :)

thanks, cheers

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36 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Switching the spring around is a good suggestion. While you are at it, take a careful look at the swivel box as it sounds a bit like the “bad side” is being held while the good side can move as intended.

Swivel box? Not sure what that is? Is that the trunion area? 

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1 hour ago, JohnD said:

May be worth looking at the front end.    Is your antiroll bar distorted?

Take it off and lay it on a flat surface.   Will it lie flat?  A twisted ARB will cause a 'set' on the rest of the car, that could account for your apparanet rear imbalance.

John

I think I'll remove it all together. For now. It's the smaller bar. Would like to get the bigger one. The frt end has to be rebuilt any way. So if the bar is off it will eliminate that out? 

Then I'll swap the spring around and see if it is good. I was told.. not sure if it's right that the spring has a stiffer side then the other. Maybe a better arch. To help with the fuel tank and driver weight?? Maybe it's not the right way around. Not sure if that's true. But I'll swap it around this week and see if it either moves the issue or helps it. 

I'm starting to think that the spring is weak on one side. I will see. 

Thanks..

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If it is the anti roll bar just rose joint the connection, that allows a bit of adjust-ability and firms it up a bit.

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52 minutes ago, 1superman said:

Ok.. that was my next question. If the spring was able to be turned around. 

That's what I'm going to do first. See if it moves the issue. this week I'll get to that. Hopefully that's it. I can get it fixed up easy at a spring shop. Rebend and maybe add a 6th spring like the gt6 version, helper. Would be nice if it was that. :)

thanks, cheers

There are two types of rear spring, the earlier type used on "roundail" cars, and the swingspring used on later spits and the very last Gt6's. These swingsprings used a natty pivot box on the diff allowing the spring to move/pivot. Combined with the thicker front ARB it was a very effective change. 

Earlier springs are a stack of leaves clamped to the diff.

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Ok. Mines a swing spring setup.

Everything looks to be moving free.

That box you talk about is part of the center of the spring? 

My spring sits on top of the diff and is bolted down with a top plate/clamp with studs. 

Pics show the style of spring. Direct mount on diff, sits in the groove made in the diff.

 

20200126_164555.jpg

20200126_164312.jpg

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2 hours ago, 1superman said:

I think I'll remove it all together. For now. It's the smaller bar. Would like to get the bigger one. The frt end has to be rebuilt any way. So if the bar is off it will eliminate that out? 

Then I'll swap the spring around and see if it is good. I was told.. not sure if it's right that the spring has a stiffer side then the other. Maybe a better arch. To help with the fuel tank and driver weight?? Maybe it's not the right way around. Not sure if that's true. But I'll swap it around this week and see if it either moves the issue or helps it. 

I'm starting to think that the spring is weak on one side. I will see. 

Thanks..

AH!  yes, a swing spring - I think you have a swing spring - needs a thicker, stiffer ARB, 7/8".

Your car is LHD, and I think I detect a North American twang in your posts!       It was a US dealer option to fit a spacer to the front left hand spring of GT6s, allegedly because with the driver and the fuel tank on the left, the suspension needed to be lifted a little.    Whatever, you might look at your front left suspension tower.       Suspension is always a compromise - affect one corner and all three others are affected.

I don't know what that spacer might do to the rear ride height, unloaded.    I would expect it to lift the left rear slightly, as yours is.  Have you tried the ehight with you and a full tank of gas in it?     And, how much do you weigh?   Some (rude people) allege that in the day American drivers were heavier than the average UK driver!   A vile calumny!

J.

 

Edited by JohnD

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Yes, I've heard that as well. I need to check out the front tower for that shim. Left side for the left hand drive cars.

I also am taking the sway bar off all together. See if that helps. I do want the 7/8 one. Will have to find one to get for it. 

I'm going to 

1. Revome the frt sway bar assy

2. Check for that shim or spacer in the right frt shock tower. As mine is a LHD car. 

3. Remove the spring and check the trunions on rear. Rotate the spring around and see what happens. Check the diff mounting while I'm there. 

4. Possibly add another spring to the rear pack. It's a 5 pack and gt6s were a 6 pack. As I'm told. 

5. Front end will get a full rebuild. The shocks are spaxx with oem springs I'm told from my buddy. But I need to do the bushings, all bushings in frt. 

it does to some extent level out with a full tank of fuel and me in it. But with out it leans way to much I think. I'm not sure how much it levels out. As I'm driving. Lol.. but I think to some degree it does.

Still though, the left sits low. The suspension, when pushing down feels like it's almost maxed. Feels stiff.

Other side feels good. Has travel and moves a good amount up and down. Sits nice as well. 

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It looks like a swing spring, I think I can just see the "spring box" on the diff.

If so, you can't add another leaf. The late GT6 swing springs had a thicker lower leaf (I think) to give it a bit more strength. 

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Ok. Good to know. Maybe I can add a stronger first or second spring to help.

I'm going to remove it anyway to check it out. Also the top of the diff. Maybe something there. Not sure. Worth a look.

Check diff and mounting ears as well. 

So, if a ear mount for the diff is off. Will it cause a lean. Hmm. It's a swing spring so it has movement to it. Would it cause that side of the spring to be angled up wards. Which would cause it to be closer to the body??? Or would it not really affect it to much to where its noticable like this.?? 

 

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So. I removed the 2 inner sway bar bushing clamps in the frt. Not the link ends. But the bar is loose.

I jacked up and took off the rear wheel, loosened all the bolts in the wheel end.

Spring, control arm, shock and trunion.

Everything looked to be moving freely. 

The up right did move when spring was pushed down and up. Only thing was the through bolt in the trunion is seized, it wont push freely. but it did look like the trunion was moving when wheel end is moved. 

All this and the car still sits low on right (passenger) side. Leans still. 

So it's not the sway bar. It's not the wheel end ???

I'm starting to think the spring is the issue? 

I have the original rear spring for the car. It's not a swing spring, like what's in it now. It's a solid 6 leaf spring assy.

Could I possibly install the 6 leaf spring in place of swing spring? 

I'm also looking at installing vet rear shocks as well. But this wont correct or repair this lean. 

Maybe delete the rear spring all together with a coilover setup. 

Thanks..

Cheers.

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Hello 1 superman, how are you getting on with finding out the cause of that "right side lean" on that GT6 of yours. Any updates as to cause and remedy, waiting with interest.

john

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Hey.. just today I decided to swap out my swing spring, and temporarily install the old gt6 spring. Way stiffer, but has some positive camber. It may be a bit to long i think. It measured basically the same. Eye to eye. So dont know??

After install I jumped up and down to settle the car. It sits nice now. But has that positive camber on the wheels. 

I need to install body to frame bushings in the rear. The right side is squashed as to the left. Not much but it is.

I believe the rear spring is the issue. The swing spring must be abit weak on the right. I was hoping this solid spring was going to work. I would have left it in for now. But I do think that it's a bit long. Moving the top of the up right to be pushed out a bit. 

Here's some pics of it with the solid spring in it. Sits nice. It has lots of spring travel, bounces nice and springs back. That's with the shocks still not attached as of now. 

Oh... dont mind the tail pipes.. being fixed!!!! Haha..

20200224_175317.jpg

20200224_175338.jpg

20200224_170637.jpg

20200224_170649.jpg

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The swing spring. Next to no rubber between the springs. 

The solid spring is 6 leafs. The swing is a spit spring with 5.

I'm wondering if I could get a shorter spring. Not sure. Feeling getting another swing spring wont fix it. 

20200224_171034.jpg

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Also just read , that using a lowering block on diff and spring lowers the car and with that gives the wheel ends more negative camber. 

What's your thoughts ????

Seems like it would work. 

I do still need to roll the car a round and see if it settles more. But the block may be a good idea. 

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1superman,

That's the swing spring you've taken off?   All of it?    The "box" in the middle should be a box', not just a top lid!

Here's a couple of pics from the 'Net.   First from a whole page of explanation on the swing spring form Paul Geithner's website:

Image result for Triumph spitfire swing spring

It's a cut-away diagram but you can see the solid vertical side to the box.  See: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm

You'll also note that the rubber pad over the top spring leaf - yours is completely worn away!

If there were no sides to the box, then the spring would have been compressed to the diff far too tightly, perhaps that is why the rubber pad is destroyed?

Here's what they should look like:

Image result for Triumph spitfire swing spring

.

Lastly, your pic shows almost no space between the leaves, as if the nylon 'buttons' are worn away.   Here's what they should look like:

Image result for Triumph spitfire swing spring buttons

 

All these are factors that could have contributed to the lean, and your original diagnosis was correct - it was the spring!

But, an original pattern swing axle spring is not an improvement!    Neither is a lowering block, unless you intend competition use, AND will go for a stiffer spring.

Nor, if yours is after Mk3  KC 20,000 will the Swing axle spring match the longer half shafts that came in then.    The spring is too short and will cause up to 2 degrees of negative camber  Not bad, but not what you might want.

Suggest you get a refurbished, exchange swing axle spring, unless you want to rebuild it yourself, and can find the other bits of the pivot box!

Jhn 

 

Edited by JohnD

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Correction - That is the clamp plate in your photo, but as John says, you don't show the spring box.  How was the spring attached to the diff?

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Thanks..

So the swing spring was all there.

The box etc.. I took it apart. Yes all rubbers are gone. Lol. Worn right out. On both sides of the spring really. 

So my car is a bit funny. The rear part of the frame and suspension is from a spitfire. Swing spring setup.. 

It's not a gt6 setup. The solid spring is from a gt6 setup. The old system that was in the car before the P/O removed it all. Any way. I'm thinking that getting a new or another used swing isnt going to correct it. Not sure. 

I dont mind using this solid one. It was in the car before. Believe it was a roto setup. I just need to get more negative camber to the wheels. So lots say to add a block which will give more negative camber to it. 

So the thoughts are no???  On that block?? Thanks cheers.

 

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Have you rolled the car back and forth since you lowered it?  Until you do, it won't settle as the wheels would have to slide sideways.

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I haven't rolled it yet. I haven't lowered it yet either. No block yet. 

Just temporarily installed the solid spring to see if the lean would go away. It has. I need to do the rear rubbers between the shock tower and the body. But not to bad. 

I'll roll it out maybe some time today see if it works its self out. I'm assuming it will get better. Maybe 0 camber. I'm hoping any way. Then a block will give me a negative and that will be fine. Then once all back in I'll add some air shocks. Like the vette ones. Just to help out .

The car is not a racer. Just a drive around after work, and car shows with the little guy. For now! Later I will upgrade the whole chassis down the road for the odd track day. For now I'm more then happy just to drive it on the road and show it off as there aren't many of them around. :)

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Rolled the car a couple times back and forth. It straighten abit. 

Think it may go even a bit more with a drive. At this point it still has positive camber. I think I need a 3/4 block in the rear to get 1 or 2 deg negative maybe more. 

I'm doing the frt end rebuild here real soon. New bushings. Etc.. so that should help as well. I need a top mounting plate for the rear spring. I used the swing spring box to hold it for now. 

When sitting in the car with about 1/2 tank or more fuel. The car levels out.

So I think it's right around where it needs to be. Just need to remove some of that positive camber kn the rear. 

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couple of things.

Did you tighten the spring eye bolts with the wheels in teh normal running position? (ie NOT with car jacked up and the suspension hanging, as that stresses the bushes and will make the car sit high until the bush fails)

Yes, you need to drive the car, ideally with something heavy in the back, and go over humps in the road to "work the suspension" as that will get it to settle quickly.

Then work out what block you may need.

 

If you can't find a plate, make one. some 8 or 10mm thick steel will suffice, it is just a rectangle with 6 holes in it! (often only 4 get used, depends on the diff casing)

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Thanks. Yes I only have 4 bolts. 

I prob could just use the swing spring center plate. Or bottom plate??

Looks to be about right. Flat and square 

I will once I have a proper plate on top tighten all areas with the wheels or suspension in a on ground state. 

I'll add some weight in the rear when I do drive..

Thanks for the info. 

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