Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Help required before ordering new springs

Recommended Posts


I knew someone would mention all the pistons being at the top at the same time. He got it all bolted in and turned it over a few times so he could see things going up and down. The price of Twink bits is sending me over the edge. I need a new oil pickup strainer gauze..... 35 Quid! 

That being said, during the week this week I am sorting the water pump and tidying all the sandwich plates. Next weekend I am hoping the sump will go on, flywheel, front plate, and we can throw it in the car. The heads going on last once its in the car as we need to throw an old head on there to mock up some new exhaust manifolds (or repair the old ones).

Getting the engine in will be a huge moment , and the first time the engine has been in the car for at least 10 years..... then Lewis and Bob the neighbour are wiring it for alternator, whilst I take on another megajolt install. The heads are built and just need timing in. I am hoping it will fire beginning of December.  Lewis gets to turn the key. If he built it, he gets the honour of starting it! The camera will be poised for that day! Then its all hands to the pump to get it flatted back, the interior in it and a trip to the MOT man. Given it has not moved for XX years another set of eyes is a no brainer.

To be honest Lewis does struggle with classroom learning, but this could give him a great shot of confidence that you can turn your hand to things, follow certain principles and succeed. I hope so anyhow. He even went to the pub with Bob after tidying up, to celebrate with a coke. The idea is to give it to his mum Xmas day, with a folder of photos showing him building it.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great stuff, Bumblebee!

I have a young apprentice - he found my instruments this weekend and was doing precision measurements - on the furniture!


Later, we changed wheels, and I introduced him to the whizzy gun and torque wrench.    The first is still a bit heavy for him to hold and he'd have to jump on the wrench to get it to click, but soon ....!


Edited by JohnD

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an update on bearings in case anyone else ever needs to find them 

The Roller bearing is a Torrington B-168 (cross referenced from part 117853

The Front Bearing is an iteration of an SKF RLS8-J    (GHB117)

Koyo still make a B168 . I ordered a pair from Hendersons in Ringwood. All the rest I got from Mick Dolphin who had the front Bearing, oil seals etc in stock.  I now await my puller which will reveal whether we need a new shaft. Of course now I have found one side is knackered I will need to check the other. I did forget to mention when cutting out the trunnions, that the metal outer washers had never been installed. This car is truly a bodgers dream. It scares me thinking what I will find next. 

So far.....

too many spacers front of body
Swing spring had no pivot plate or pin, and still had the transit shackle on it
Front wheel bearings made out of different cups and cones
Missing bits on both front and rear trunnions
Missing bushes steering column
Dearched spitfire swingspring which could not take weight of GT6
Wrong Wiper Switch meaning no park
Shot wheels studs (8 of 16 threaded)
Diff had 6 stud mounts, only 4 used other 2 not blocked hence no oil but big puddles
Radius bushes shot... Im using spitty radius arms on rebuild. ( A tip from GT)

Add to this "normal" things like cross threaded bolts/nuts and modern crappy spares and it can quickly send you over the edge. Half of me wants to pull the tub, and measure the chassis in case thats banana, but if I do that it will never move again , as proven by my spitfire. 

Dunno, its just depressing me at the moment. Makes the lotus look like cutting edge engineering!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know what you mean.  We found all kinds of stuff like this on our GT6, but although irritating and adding to costs, it was easier to rectify as we always aimed to go in to the last nut and bolt anyway.

I guess the trick is to pick out the things that affect safety, reliability and performance ( you have a good list already!) and deal with those.  The other things then go on your "one day" list with the things that offend you the most at the top.  Some of the things on my "one day" list for the Vitesse have been on there decades......

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Nick ... you are right of course. I suppose running around spending money I dont have on the Twink and being on a timeframe is clouding the GT6 which is MY car and Ive not touched the Stag in months. 

looking on the upside. Rear end wise

Diff... done
Swing Spring .. done
Bearings....done or will be once they turn up

Wheel Bearings..done

Gearbox/OD ...done

MJ done

Carb linkage for webers..done

Shocks being done once bits back....

Steering column bushes...done Wipers done.

What it really needs is a full alignment. I may play with string, but dont really trust myself. 

so really the glass is more than half full.... it does need paint , and I still need to do safety stuff in case I ever hillclimb it. I would like to. Alan gave me loads of advice and I owe it to him to have a go one day. 

Yeah... its not that bad... .we nearly there... Good work Nick. You are a mental health councillor in disguise. The world is wonderful! 



Edited by Bumblebee

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alignment...…  Yes, makes a massive difference.  I have a home made camber gauge (with a notional caster widget, though I'm a bit dubious of that beyond making sure it's the same both sides) and a tape measure.

When we did Chris's Spit we set that up from scratch with those tools only and it drove very nicely.  When we took it for (expensive) 4 wheel alignment, the operator (whom I've know many years) couldn't find anything to complain about except the front toe which was (intentionally) outside the "book" figures.  He insisted on changing it.  The car drove less well afterwards so we put it back.  Waste of money.

The GT has so far been set the same way.  It drives well.  I need to check the front settings again having changed the dampers and springs so it rides a bit lower, but from the way it drives I don't think it's far out.

Worth a bash yourself IMO.  And experiment.  See what works. The book figures aren't worth much anyway as they are specified with significant weight in the car and no-one ever does that!

One thing we also learnt from the Spit is that wheels and offset make a significant difference to driving manners.  On that we started with Triumph 5" steels (late 1500?) and 175/70 tyres.  It drove really nicely.
Later I got hold of another set of 100+ cross-spokes (same as Vitesse) which are 6J ET13.  These are now fitted to the car with the same tyres as before.  They may look nicer, but the car drove better on the steels.  The steels are on the GT6 now...…  Perfect fit on the front but usual daft narrow-track roto on the rear spoil the look there.  May get some standard 4.5" ones banded to 6" for the rear......

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got dodgy Revolutions with the (in)famous offset on at the moment.  I do have a pair of 13 inch Wolfraces and a pair of Supaslots sitting waiting to be shod and they can go on. The offsets are better. (they stick out further for want of a better term) and the supaslots are a touch "wider" than the wolfraces. Might try the supaslots on the back and the wolfraces on the front. 

Got to be better than the Revs. They are on Goodyear Efficient Grip 175/70/13 currently. 

Well once it is all put together I will give it a try by finding a centre line and measuring outwards, then stringing it. There's lots being moved anyhow, with a change to Spit radius arms and thus a change to Spit radius arm mounts on the back, and the front having new springs plus new Konis all round.Front 1 turn rear 1/2 to start. I went 9 inch 450lb and lock wire!  Its never been aligned, it feels drifty at speed, not very confidence inspiring. I did the tracking on the front once, but since then I have had to put a new track rod on one end and it was a different length to the old one for some reason. Pattern parts strike again. I will be shocked if the back end is square let alone set right. The front camber looks excessive due to lowering. Rear camber of course is what it is , with a lowering block of 3/4 inch

My Camber gauge is a clinometer on my phone! I don't understand caster, it makes my head hurt. I am sure it is important but I dont get it. I do know how to move shims to change it though so I can get it ball park and walk away .

I think you have helped me form basis of a plan. Get the back sorted with new bearings, a possible shaft on near side, check and probably do other side too, new trunnions as well both sides, my spit radius arms, bung shocks on front, push out of garage, push back in, get levelled with some tiles to pack then measure it all out with plumb lines and chalk, string it either side and tape measure it all. set cambers on front, set toe on back,  then toe on front to finish. 

List of things for future..... Paint, paint , and possibly get it painted . Box Fuel tank. Actually enjoy driving it for a while. Invent an exhaust mounting system that does not rely on one bobbin exhaust mount to hold the lot up at the back...... yes my fault, yes it did drop, yes it did make the collecter blow, no I'm not happy! I think it needs a couple of mounts tacked on further back to take the weight off the end .


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Bumblebee said:

Actually enjoy driving it for a while

Most important!!

1 hour ago, Bumblebee said:

Invent an exhaust mounting system that does not rely on one bobbin exhaust mount to hold the lot up at the back...... yes my fault, yes it did drop, yes it did make the collecter blow, no I'm not happy!

On the Spit (pre-owned but decent) wheelbarrow system I made brackets to use modern figure of 8 rubbers at the diff (crap picture here, about half way down) http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7107-chriss-mkiv-basket-case-restored-to-glory/page/4/#comments

and some quite nice bolt on things at the rear (I'll see if I can find a pic when I'm at the right computer).

As regards the poxy 3-1 connection:
- needs modding by slotting each one, and welding tabs on to make clamps (no room for actual clamps)
- need a robust mount from gearbox /bellhousing area to prevent (reduce anyway) system movement flexing the joint
- Ideally I'd suggest a flexi-joint somewhere around the back of the gearbox.

It'll probably still blow after a while but hopefully the interval might go up!


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...