Jump to content
PeteStupps

Hello from an indecisive Spit & 1300fwd owner

Recommended Posts

Hello all, please may I come in.

I only have enough energy to concentrate on one forum, and was using CT for a while. Recently got bored to death waiting for the pages to load so drifted away. I see a couple of familiar names here.

I've spent a lot of time reading this forum and am well impressed with the level of technical knowledge and discussion. I'm definitely more of a novice myself; did a bit of thermo / fluid dynamics as part of an electrical engineering degree so understand some of the words at least. 

In the garage I've got a mk3 Spitfire which is bog standard but due an engine rebuild, and a 1300fwd which has just had the dubious honour of being my first car engine rebuild. Still running-in, with a few snags to sort out.

I've got a few options with the Spit rebuild but am struggling to decide what to do. Will start a thread shortly to elaborate. 

Incidentally I'm based in London, close to Waterloo. Terrible place to drive but there are quite a few classics tucked away round here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, Pete!

Sideways has offered asylum to many refugees from other sites, I'm sure you'll like it here.

Aren't classics exempt from the new London ULEZ rules?    I've a feeling that they may become more sought after as a result!

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome Peter!  Remember your 1300 FWD posts from the CT forum - glad to hear it is now running.  I had a 1300 FWD briefly may years ago and loved it's "baby limo" feel.  I fought with it's bizarre front pulley and starter ring gear at some length (it had the tapered version and was very reluctant to come off!) and also had some battles with the gear linkage.  Couldn't live with it's ridiculously short gearing in the end and sold it on.

Lots of possibilities with the Mk3 engine rebuild - but the Mk3 engine is a great starting point.  I have a small crank 1300 block, crank and rods here ex 13/60 Herald should you find any of yours too far gone - they'll need boring/grinding but are on std sizes at present.

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all, much obliged.

On 6/7/2019 at 8:54 AM, JohnD said:

Aren't classics exempt from the new London ULEZ rules?    I've a feeling that they may become more sought after as a result!

Yes John, not sure how the FBHVC pulled that out of the bag but I'm not complaining. In a way I don't really want more people to use classics to get around the charge, as then TFL would remove the exemption! 

On 6/7/2019 at 9:17 AM, Nick Jones said:

Welcome Peter!  Remember your 1300 FWD posts from the CT forum - glad to hear it is now running.  I had a 1300 FWD briefly may years ago and loved it's "baby limo" feel.  I fought with it's bizarre front pulley and starter ring gear at some length (it had the tapered version and was very reluctant to come off!) and also had some battles with the gear linkage.  Couldn't live with it's ridiculously short gearing in the end and sold it on.

Lots of possibilities with the Mk3 engine rebuild - but the Mk3 engine is a great starting point.  I have a small crank 1300 block, crank and rods here ex 13/60 Herald should you find any of yours too far gone - they'll need boring/grinding but are on std sizes at present.

Nick

Thanks Nick, yes I ended up getting my early straight crank re-cut with a taper, as the keyway was mullered. Hopefully won't need to remove the pulley any time soon! It's running but giving me headaches with chronic fuel vaporisation (I think). Lovely interior though so it's a nice place to sit while the bonnet's up, waiting for it to cool down.

Thanks very much for the spares offer; current block & crank are still standard sizes so shouldn't have any issues there, plus I've amassed a spare crank and rods. No doubt there will be plenty of surprises to come though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re the fuel vapourisation I suggest binning the mechanical pump and fitting a Huco electric pump. Ideally a pusher pump in the boot by the tank, but if you don’t fancy the extra effort, a sucker type on the inner wing will come a close second. 

Rerouting the fuel pipe from pump to carb away from the engine block and thermostat housing (what were they thinking of!) will also help as Will a heat shield between carb and exhaust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my 3a the fuelling route via the mechanical pump was very much as Nick described. 

The yellow track in the picture. Close to the block and above the front exhaust manifold.

i fitted the sucker huco pump and routed it around the back on the bulkhead the green track line. The pipe is a bit long as it will still fit the mechanical pump if needs be.

i have also taken out the fine filter after the pump. Leaving the mesh filter before the pump.

38D9CBFD-D213-4985-8328-F7AEB0B730B9.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was considering a Huco pump, but want to see how she behaves now I've fitted a heatshield and fixed the blowing exhaust downpipe flange, which was raising the engine bay temperature a bit! Just need some warm weather for a test drive...

I did look at re-routing the fuel line. Will go down that road as and when I ditch the mechanical pump.

Hamish I had a filter dangling close to the exhaust, and realised that probably was absorbing a lot of heat to removed it. Presume your mods had a noticeable effect? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete 

to be honest I don’t know the effect.

i have been chasing a high revs hi speed intermittent misfire on a few runs at sprints I do. It also happened on a rolling road with the mechanical pump. And the rr chap said it was fuel ?!

hence the changes. Not entirely convinced it’s not electrics as I have had the symptoms on a road test with the huco. So am trying a simple acuspark electronic ignition module and fitted a back up coil.

may even try a rr second opinion. ?

as you can see I’m not a stickler for originality so and the cost to change was very reasonable. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...