NeilR Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 The front of the chassis looks to be in better condition than the rear. We cleaned it up further, but it seems quite acceptable really. I think this will give everyone a reasonable idea on the condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 On UK chassis, the side rails often rot away (usually at the back), and I've seen the radius arm mounts pull through the rear outriggers. Certainly, the condition appears better than 99% of cars you'd find over here. I'm curious to know if there are any differences between the home market and export chassis. CKD kits were also built and sold in India where they apparently had a reputation for being intolerant of the local road conditions. I had forgotten about the rear shock and diff mounts on the Mk.1 chassis, this is probably the most salient difference compared to the Mk. 2, which has cross member between the two. Perhaps this is something also worth considering? Out of interest, what is the aluminium item on the bulkhead, connected to the air duct below the windscreen, facing the carburettor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 I think the cross member is a good idea. The alloy 'beehive' looking thing is a cabin heater - the origins are unknown. It's not Datsun 1200, which supplied the engine and gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Can only see the first pic for some reason but that looks like a pretty decent coupe - smooth-roof too. Would fetch pretty good money as-is here, not that that is any use to you in Oz! JFs pic is of a Mk2 chassis. Yours is probably a Mk1 chassis. I noted your earlier remark about the export Mk1 chassis being "strengthened" but certainly the standard item is legendarily feeble and prone to cracking up around and behind the front wishbone mounts and anywhere around the diff mounts at the rear. This without any help from tin-worm. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 That's interesting - I can see the other images - can someone else tell me what they can see? The roof is free to a good home. The 'export' chassis comment came from others on a forum - I have no information to support it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 An OE estate roof is a very floppy item. distorts under its own weight if you hold it up by a corner. And it weighs 30kgs The GRP roof I made for Silverback was so stiff that we couldn't bend it between two men holding the corners, and it weighed only 9kgs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 1 hour ago, NeilR said: That's interesting - I can see the other images - can someone else tell me what they can see? The roof is free to a good home. The 'export' chassis comment came from others on a forum - I have no information to support it. I could see them earlier when I posted my previous reply, but not now. I just see the following symbol instead of the image: Perhaps a permissions issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 bugger, will try and change it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 Sorry all, I just cannot work out a method of having the images appear in the forum ATM, so links are below: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HJtUdRHVymXo1cWc9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/HjpCVWh3JeFnBSii9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/am7vmhKwc4cNpL9G9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/DC5P6ExDMK8Pqv2NA https://photos.app.goo.gl/98TFqAaEpapzKWnc7 please let me know if these work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Those links worked for me. That is a project car for sure. good luck and enjoy. ( but surprised you included the pic of you in that yellow bikini Neil ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Chassis looks pretty good. Whole car looks pretty fair bar front foot wells and read plates (though photos may lie!). Have a good look for cracks though especially around diff mounting areas. Anything more than 948 is reputedly too much power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 Well here's the interesting thing, Heralds in Australia seemed to be different and I have been told that all Heralds in Australia used the Mk1 chassis - but this seems unlikely. https://www.stcc.com.au/pg_technicalpdf.php?id=31 It is what I have and I'll have to make do ... the bonus is that it was registered (Taxed) with the Datsun engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 I've looked at pictures of the Mk1 and Mk2 chassis - the main rails and outriggers seem the same - is the difference only on the diff mount and the additional support from the bumper mounts/front chassis sleeving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustbuckit2011 Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 There are a couple of bits of the mk1 chassis that I always really liked- They have gussets between the main rails that tie them together- 3 if I remember right. They are pressed steel, and would work rather like the 'tshirt' plate but much less intrusive. The other is a threaded hole that bolts the rear tub to the main rails around the diff- mk2 cars dont have this and I cant work out why, as essentially that makes the chassis work as a double skin. I have a wee album on fb that details mk1 chassis data- I'll see if I can add a pic- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustbuckit2011 Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 No updates on this recent hot weather, included 46C on the planned day of work. A closed tin shed, angle grinders and 46C do not mix, so we didn't do any work ... total fire ban also meant no power tool use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I call those strengthening, not stiffening plates. They secure the joint, rather than make it less flexible. JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 You can substantially improve the chassis stiffness by seam welding all the flanges to replace/augment the spot welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 Found the information I was looking for here: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?42151-Helicopter-Turbine-Powered-Roadster-(Not-a-turbo-miata!)/page3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilR Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 this might also show a way forward: http://www.migliasportscars.co.uk/howtobuild.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 T shirt really stiffens things up, as does welding the two half of the tubs together. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?42151-Helicopter-Turbine-Powered-Roadster-(Not-a-turbo-miata!)/page3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Prepared to be shot down in flames . Going back to the original photo of a Herald with a T shirt welded onto the chassis and mention of the issue with propshaft removal. Could it be bolted to the underside of the chassis to enable propshaft removal, maybe 4 x 3/8UNF bolts per side yet still add stiffness? Thanks Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Going to be looking at this in detail in the next few weeks...… Chris is doing some learned works on it with FEA models and the Skip is being roped in for the actual stunts. Bracing methods to be explored along with the influence of the body tub (suspected minimal!). I'm curious to try clamping to the wide seams on the inside of the main rails...…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now