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Stag trigger wheel mounting

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My Stag currently runs an MS2 running off the optical trigger from my lumenition system, firing a 12v coil and distributing the spark via the rotor and dizzy cap. Simple stuff.

Just lately the car has been cutting out randomly, no spark. I'ts not power to the system, or the MS2 (bypassed that to make sure) or the Lumenition amp (bypasses that on MS2) but could be the 8v feed to the optical sensor (didn't have time to check that late friday night) or the sensor itself.

Any road up,  want to get rid of the distributor triggering and go for a crank mounted system and coil packs.

 

I did a quick google but also thought I'd throw it open to the floor of the house to see if anyone has done anything clever here other than bolting a trigger wheel to the back of the pulley.

 

Any info greatfully received.

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Easiest way is the EDIS8 and bolting the 36-1 wheel.

You have an independent ignition and that is easier to set.

You can stay with the setting of points of the MS2.

 

Otherwise you will have to fit three additional coil drivers to MS2

and fiddle all out properly that it will run and find another place for triggering.

 

The other end of the crank is the flywheel and I think it is a lot of work

to establish triggering there. Ans other place will be affected by toothed gear,

chains or spanners that will make the triggering not that precise.

 

Why do you want to have more work than necessary?

 

Did you check the signal for the need of filtering?

Maybe that could be easiest solution. You can log for some time

and if you get the problem you can analyse what is the reason.

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Can't think of an alternative that doesn't involve significantly more effort and expense. Or that will offer any real functional benefits.

Planning to use EDIS-8 or mod the ECU (if even possible for 8 cyl?)

Nick

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Hi thanks. I don't think logging will help me, if it's either the trigger or it's supply they would both show up as a loss of trigger signal .. though logging with a DVM onto the optical power supply would tell me if the signal is lost whilst still maintaining power, so a trigger sensor issue therefore. It's not an MS2 issue as I can put it back onto the lumenition system bypassing the MS2 and it still cuts out. I really need it to do it whilst ive got a test LED or DVM on the 8volt feed to the sensor.

 

Reason for going complicated is to simplify it in reality. The only reason I went for the lumentition triggered version was that I already had the lumenition fitted and to get something installed quickly that was at least mappable, but if I do have an optical trigger failure (and some say the new versions aren't that reliable) then going to crank based inductive trigger and coils is far more reliable in the long run. It will also allow me to get a decent amount of part throttle advance in and not have cross firing (my light cruise advance is limited at the moment by misfiring if I increase the advance to where I really need it).

 

I will have to ask Phil Ringwood who built my MS2 whether I have just the single ignition output or I can drive coil packs, I spec'd it as optical trigger, single coil output but not sure if it's a configuration change or a hardware change. If it's a hardware change I will move the MS on to my Spitfire and go back to Emerald for the Stag.

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If you want to drive 4 coilpacks you will definitely need hardware mods to the ECU unless you use an EDIS-8 as well.

It's been a while since I built an MS ECU but iirc they have two designed-in ignition outputs. These can be hardware configured as low output to switch external ignition devices such as EDIS or coils with built in controls or high output to directly switch coil-packs with the latter using additional special coil driver chips. Most kits supply two of these but may not be installed if not needed (not installed on my ECU).

With the MS-Extra firmware It is possible to configure the MS2 for at least 1 more ignition output and probably 2 (not checked as I only have 6 cylinders). It's also possible to add the additional coil driver chips (though 4 might be a bit of a squeeze), but if using coils with built amplifier/controls these won't be needed. Either route would be a lot cheaper than an Emerald ECU! Worth discussing with Phil Ringwood maybe?

Nick

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If you want to drive a coil directly you need the BIP373.

On the cooling board only one is fitted and there is no space for more.

The 3 other channels come from the LEDs that drive three other BIPs

They must be fitted somewhere where they can dissipate the heat.

 

With the 4 channels you can drive the V8 in wasted spark mode.

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