Nick Jones Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 In the absence of a pic I'm not quite sure what you mean. However, I suspect you mean that the bonnet is too narrow. This is quite common and is because the bonnet has become too narrow due to the curve at the top getting stretched. Can be pushed back out (I used a scissor jack and some bits of timber) though there is a risk of cracks just above the top/wing seam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 That’s exactly what I meant Nick thank you. Ill try and get some pictures tomorrow! Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 So bit of progress today , body all bolted down and packed. Not too disappointed with the results. Doors shut and catch without slamming so that’s nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 That looks pretty fair to me considering it’s a Herald/Vitesse thing! You could maybe stretch the bonnet a little but I’ve seen far worse. Other possibility is tha you may be able to twist the door ( if it’s been re-skinned but not yet welded at the corners) or investigate whether you have a bit of tub-spread going on as the resolution of either of those would let you move the door in at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 Thanks Nick, I must confess to a bit of foot powered adjustment to the bonnet top...... if only I could do the splits it would have worked. If I bounce the car around it doesn’t seem to change my door gaps so I’m thinking that’s a good sign? Next job is fit some side valances/sills. To ensure they fit and don’t muck the door gaps up etc. I have some crusty ones that’ll do for now. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Mine is still awaiting the sill covers. It’s only been 30 years........ They only trap mud and rot the the side rails and body mounts Aggressive adjustment of the bonnet cones can help a bit with bonnet width though most of the cones currently available are a bit feeble for that kind of treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 On the Vitesse and Herald 1360 bonnets the wings taper out along the seam as they aproach the door, to the same depth as the swage line on the door. When I originaly fitted new wings I never realised this and wondered why I could see the door hinges when stood in front of the car. I had welded them flush with the top panel. I had the nightmare job of cutting along the seam through the fresh Mig plug welds and teasing the wing out again. Horrible job. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Hmm, that sounds familiar, though I realised my mistake after the first one so only one is affected. I was a bit free with the plug welds so no way is it coming apart without serious destruction. Not many have noticed in the 30 years since that cock up. This is one reason that I know it's possible to stretch the bonnet as I did this to mitigate the effect of the incorrectly fitted wing. 1200 bonnets are the same and rolling your 1200 can have an unfortunate effect on the fit of its bonnet, causing the need for similar treatment..... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 On 11/30/2018 at 11:54 AM, Mark said: Hi Alex I have moved the engine back as far as possible without cutting the bulk head on my Vitesse. I modified the original mounts. This needed an inch or so, from memory sliced from the heater matrix and box, plus loads of other mods including, exhaust, shortened prop etc. Mark Hi Mark I understand it is a tight fit but did you need to use the jar of vaseline that is sitting on the bulkhead? Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 Ok purely for a let’s see what problems I cause ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 Ok so offered up my carbs and exhaust manifold..... cast manifold will clear without incident but hs4’s are another matter. The water pipe on the inlet manifold is almost clear but the carbs is a major no. Looking on eBay at strombergs in a manifold the strombergs appear closer together on the inlet manifold. Anyone know or able to measure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 That looks like a 2000 manifold. Is it angled upwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 I believe it is a 2000 manifold Nick, it appears straight? Is there an alternative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 2000 manifold is angled upwards away from the head at 6º to horizontal. GT6 and Vitesse manifolds are flat. Strombergs and HIF SUs both have integral float chambers so won't hang out that far. Might just clear but will be damn close from that pic. Have (or have the makings of) both variants though not both here. Will try to measure..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 Thanks Nick, I’ll double check later but I think this manifold sits flat so that would mean gt6/vitesse?..... but would they ever have had Su’s? The Hs4’s bolt up no problem .... can strombergs fit an Su manifold or the other way around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 No 2L Vitesse or GT6 had SUs from the factory. Some of the later saloons did. The long boss for the attachment bolts is another saloon feature. I believe that all saloon manifolds were angled 6º from the factory. Yours may have been machined, but the angle is quite hard to spot unless side by side. I ran a saloon manifold with strombergs on the Vitesse for a few years. The 1.5" Strombergs and SUs have different stud patterns (unlike 1.75" which I think are the same) with different bolt pitch. Also, whereas both L and R Stroms have the bolt pattern angled the same way, SUs are handed. So to convert (I've only gone the Strom to SU route myself) you have to re-drill and tap the manifold on the LHS (there is a pad on the casting for this) but on the RHS they are about 1/2 hole out so you would either have to weld up the holes and redrill/tap or slot the holes in the carb - which is what I lazily did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 I did get some pictures of some strombergs last night..... these are almost certainly on a saloon manifold. On these the throttle control is to the rear which could cause further issues. Im off for a measure..... I’ll report my findings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Would guess at GT6 mk2 manifold but makes no odds really. Do you still need measurements? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 With the Carb off the inlet manifold I could just about fit the manifold. The carb doesn’t fit by approximately the float bowl size. I think this would be ok to remove from the bulkhead. The strombergs are about an inch narrower overall including the cable so could almost fit straight on I think...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Was having a look at your pictures today and a couple of things came to mind. One there is one version of the manifold that sweeps nicely back in from both front and back picture below not sure exactly which model but no doubt someone here will, also has the advantage of doing away with the T union on the end of the manifold which is bulkhead end. Also this manifold would take HIF44 carbs which I think would also really help as they are the slimmest carbs, slimmer than the 175 Stroms and no side mount float chambers (may have to try finding a set with low chambers though). I have a gash set in a box somewhere if you want to play. OK you need some more bulkhead clearance, how about moving the the clutch master cylinder to the right so that mounting bracket bolts use the same ones as the brake mounting bracket. Its not a problem that the pedal will move over as its easy to re bend it to put the pedal back where it was, I always re-adjust mine to put the pedals where I want them not where Triumph put them. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I'll see if I can get a picture of my Bulkhead mods. Yes, a spitfire, but the engine/ITBs and filter are all sizeable, so a few tweeks were required... May give you some ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 1 hour ago, Nick Jones said: Would guess at GT6 mk2 manifold but makes no odds really. Do you still need measurements? Nick I don’t think so , thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Couple of pics of HIF4 SUs on a Vitesse on a modified stromberg Vitesse manifold. Note that these are unusual 1.5" non-metric HIFs from a 1500 Allegro of all things and the more common equivalent would be HIF38s. The engine is in the standard position in these pics. Still have these and will retrieve them tomorrow when I go and look for the hood header rail provided there isn't snow everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 58 minutes ago, oldtuckunder said: Was having a look at your pictures today and a couple of things came to mind. One there is one version of the manifold that sweeps nicely back in from both front and back picture below not sure exactly which model but OK you need some more bulkhead clearance, how about moving the the clutch master cylinder to the right so that mounting bracket bolts use the same ones as the brake mounting bracket. Its not a problem that the pedal will move over as its easy to re bend it to put the pedal back where it was, I always re-adjust mine to put the pedals where I want them not where Triumph put them. Alan That’s a great idea Alan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 2 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Couple of pics of HIF4 SUs on a Vitesse on a modified stromberg Vitesse manifold. Note that these are unusual 1.5" non-metric HIFs from a 1500 Allegro of all things and the more common equivalent would be HIF38s. The engine is in the standard position in these pics. Still have these and will retrieve them tomorrow when I go and look for the hood header rail provided there isn't snow everywhere. Is that yours pre injection? that looks like it would need very little massaging to fit... even the air box could be adapted.... interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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