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Re positioning a 6 pot


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On 6/24/2018 at 7:36 PM, Alex said:

 

Ill be fitting hs4s if that makes any difference ?

 

Not that I'm in anyway encouraging you to start a build thread that will keep us entertained, but just spotted your comment about HS4's, keep your eye out for a pair of HIF4's or even 6's, they have the float chamber underneath not on the side, so the inlet manifold (engine!) can move back further before the carbs need chunks taking out the bulkhead,  and whilst the HIF's are slightly taller unlike the GT6 the Vitesse (so I assume Herald) has plenty of clearance.

Of course I'd really recommend Strombergs, but I'm perverse it appears.

Alan

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13 minutes ago, oldtuckunder said:

Not that I'm in anyway encouraging you to start a build thread that will keep us entertained, but just spotted your comment about HS4's, keep your eye out for a pair of HIF4's or even 6's, they have the float chamber underneath not on the side, so the inlet manifold (engine!) can move back further before the carbs need chunks taking out the bulkhead,  and whilst the HIF's are slightly taller unlike the GT6 the Vitesse (so I assume Herald) has plenty of clearance.

Of course I'd really recommend Strombergs, but I'm perverse it appears.

Alan

Alan, 

Thank you that’s certainly something worth looking out for!

On paper I’m very excited to finally be moving forward on this project as I’ve had ideas in my head since it started in 2014.

A Triumph Spitfire stalled everything but was also a great way of learning a bit more. Trouble is all this happens whilst keeping my white car going.  If it comes to it and I can’t move the engine back as far as I’d hoped so be it .....but I’m still going to try:-)

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This thread might be of interest :yes:

My car has a Vitesse chassis and a Herald 12/50 bonnet. The radiator is from a Vitesse and the car has a 3 rail gearbox.

The engine mounts are inside the suspension turrets and I already had to grind the chassis a bit to fit the tacho angle drive.

The engine/box is VERY close at the back and at the front !!

The radiator grille is also adapted to fit in front of the bonnet !

Have fun building this car, and I have to add that the 6 cylinder engine is definitely worth the hassle :biggrin:

JC

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54 minutes ago, triumphlux said:

This thread might be of interest :yes:

My car has a Vitesse chassis and a Herald 12/50 bonnet. The radiator is from a Vitesse and the car has a 3 rail gearbox.

The engine mounts are inside the suspension turrets and I already had to grind the chassis a bit to fit the tacho angle drive.

The engine/box is VERY close at the back and at the front !!

The radiator grille is also adapted to fit in front of the bonnet !

Have fun building this car, and I have to add that the 6 cylinder engine is definitely worth the hassle :biggrin:

JC

What a great read!

Your car looks superb, real attention to detail!

you should be very proud of your hard work.

Alex

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3 hours ago, triumphlux said:

This thread might be of interest :yes:

 

JC just noticed that your thread started in 2008!, sorry Alex but your going to have to pull your finger out and get a move on, otherwise some of us don't have the life expectancy to see it through :mellow:

Alan

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Thank you Alex for the compliments  :thanks:

@ Alan :

Yes its 10 years ago I started and it should get registered next month :banana:

But I have to say that during these 10 years my garage got much bigger and better equipped and the house got a veranda above the garage. Most of the work done by myself which takes a lot of time and energy.

 Nearly forgot that I also restored my Mini in between :yes:

@ Nick :

At least the text is not lost thanks to all the people who keep this great forum going !!

JC

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Credit for forum survival due to many, not least to Dave for handing over the keys when he'd taken it as far as he could go. Much credit to Craig now for establishing and maintaining this excellent platform over...... err.... quite a while now. The rest is down to the contributors-which is the rest of us. Keep at it folks!

There are not few epic vintage threads on here that get brought blinking back into the light from time to time. I think that in most cases the missing pics can be restored, but i fear I'm not clever enough.......

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9 hours ago, rustbuckit2011 said:

That is a terrific thread- it's a killer that the pics are missing from the beginning-- especially those about bearing races being built into rotoflex wishbones. Do these pics live on in another thread? I'd love to do the same

 

You'll find a few pictures on page 2 about the rotoflex wishbone modification :yes:

JC

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Floors arrived today and the A post mount repair sections.....

Its about now I’m wondering what I’ve taken on though!

Ive clamped the front edge of one pan and I’m thinking that I'll need to measure from the floor to the new panel to make sure it’s straight where it joins the tub?

With me so far?.......then if I measure from the back forwards for the A post repair?

 

The bit that’s concerning me most is bending the new floor down to meet the apost repair and a post itself,does that make any sense?

The picture may help explain what I mean......if you can see an error or a better way please say. 

Im thinking once I’ve got everything bent to fit I can the do the repairs to the crusty area where it all mounts up rather that lose what could be critical dimensions and reference points. 

Alex

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That's a hard bit. Those two panels don't look like they are supposed to fit together.  

As I remember the body mounts fit straight to the floor pressing in the original build and the extra skin is the base of the a-pillar, on the inside.

Position wise, the really important ones are two on the kick panels, which hopefully haven't moved......

Nick

e

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I am a big believer in multiple reference points. Ideally you'd have the chassis well supported on stands with bulkhead, rear tub and doors fitted (+roof if saloon). That way you can be pretty confident of everything ending up where it needs to be.

Tricky to arrange though.

Nick

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Bearing in mind I know nothing (and have kept as far away from welding things as I could) but am reasonably adept at cutting and bending pieces of metal to go where I want before getting someone else to do the welding.

If it was me I think I'd be bending that metal, and stitching it all in place with self tappers and little fillet plates, and then dropping on chassis getting it all lined up whilst everything is moveable, and then start actually welding. Given the amount of flex in all those panels even when the metal is good, and they are bolted to a chassis, it appears at times that door gaps can move significantly (especially on convertibles) with only a days strenuous exercise. I'd be worried that things would only fit where they touched if sections were welded individually unless you had some really good jigs.

Alan

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I spent an hour in the garage taking measurements etc.....

The new panels are not too bad to be fair, they need shaping to fit in places but I would guess this is to allow for discrepancies between cars?

The A post panel pretty much fits straight on so I’m guessing you fit that and shape the floor to fit it rather than how I took the picture with the floor fitted and A post over the top. 

I believe these photos I found online show what I need to do.

Alex

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