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Hello All

               I thought I would start a new thread as several questions to ask

I have run my new engine for 100 miles now and nothing has dropped off and it did not go bang!

I took it for a run in the county side with mixed roads and hills and kept it down to 3000RPM for first 50 miles then up to 3500 to about 75/80miles and a quick boot upto 4000 on level ground not to much load

The one problem I have is it miss fires at 4000RPM but I think it is a duff crank sensor because the tachometer drops as well to 3000(not a ford sensor)

I have fitted the one off the old engine now(ford) and increased the gap as it was only about 0.020"(old engine 0.035")

I am off out tonight to a TSSC club meeting so can test!

The oil temperature gauge works but it does not go over 80 deg when moving(to be expected as the sensor is 80deg) but I am thinking pehaps I should fit a 90deg as all the reading suggests 10deg above water temperature to drive out moisture?

The engine has had 3 heat cycles now and will be 4 by tomorrow so when should I re torque the head down? and do you slacken and retighten one nut at a time or slacken them all and re tighten?

The engine still seem to to have the good torque of the 1500 and pulls quite well from 2000rpm on level ground bur really seems to start pulling at 2500rpm and seems quick after 3000rpm!

So the PH 2 newman camshaft seems ok and it is about the same spec as Kastner said was a good steet cam so I am relieved and the tappets are not noisy!

So what do you think ?

Roger

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Sounds like you did a really good job :yes::thumbsup:

Regarding oil temperatures, my small crank 1300engine usually sits around 70 deg and only goes higher (80-85 deg max) when I really trash it on a hot day.

The Vitesse engine which we ran in this weekend also stayed at 80 deg, and thats a new engine that got really thrashed up to 6.500 rpm :banana: 

It has forged pistons and large clearances and is fully run in after only 120 km.

A well build Triumph engine seems to run fairly cool.

JC

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Sounds good to me.  If they're going to blow up it usually happens early!

Presumably you mean the oil thermostat is 80º not the sensor?  Does sound a little low.  90º is probably better for keeping the water content down, but I wouldn't panic about it.

1500 is the only Triumph engine I've had that seems to need an oil cooler in normalish use.  Must get my oil temp gauge installed so I can check what is actually happening with the Vitesse.  Pretty sure the oil temps are considerably higher than being reported here here....... and pretty sure I know why too..... but without data.....

Re the head nuts, I slacken slightly and re-tighten one at a time in the specified tightening sequence.

Nick

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Hello All

              Just back from the TSSC meeting and oil temperature gauge did not go over 70deg but oil cooler felt hot when we got home?

So I am wondering if the Sensor is in a cooler place? 

I like Alan's idea of it being in the gallery so you know oil temperature of the oil the engine is getting I will look into to that and see if I can make a suitable fitting.

I think I will 're torque the head down tomorrow as it has had 4 full heat cycles and 125miles and perhaps put a few more miles on before I change the oil and filter ready for the Spanish trip and back to Le Man's.

The Ford crank sensor was ok to about 4250rpm so that problem is solved (it would still do as a spare as 3500rpm in o/d 4th is about 80mph)

I have another one in the car kit I must look it out and perhaps try it? (Or buy another Ford one?)

Roger

Ps I filled up with fuel last night and I worked its doing between 38 and 40 mpg and that was not cruising as I was running in low gears and in and out of o/d to put the load on and off the new engine

I did a bit more autotune as well after about 40miles so its looking good (I hope there is not another bloody train coming through the tunnel!)

Edited by rogerguzzi

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Hello All

              I have retorque the cylinder head down (seemed to take a lot more turn and tappets closed up) 

So I suppose that means the cylinder head gasket is nice and squashed now?

I have been out for another run and its cover just over 200 miles now so I dropped the sump plug when I got home to drain down while nice and hot (dam near burnt my hand in the hot oil 70deg)

There was only a couple of whiskers on the magnetic sump plug but the oil looks a bit dirty (but I suppose that is to be expected?)

The tickover has gone up a bit so it must be a bit looser now! 

It will pull from 2000rpm if you are not in a rush but at 2500rpm it's starts to come alive and at 3000rpm it really seems to pull.

So overall at the moment I am please with the out come

The oil temperature sits at about 70deg while moving swiftly but goes up to 80/85deg when in slower traffic and after a bit of a thrash.

So for now I am going to leave the oil thermostat at the 80deg as we are off to Spain in 12 days so a bit cooler running may be better? and the car will be FULLY LOADED!

I filled up with fuel again at 200 miles and it works out at 39mpg so EFI must be close?

I have a couple ticking tappets I will look at tomorrow when fully cold but considering the gaps on the Newman camshaft are 0.014" and 0.016" it does not seem any noisier so it must have good quietening ramps!

Roger

Psi I am going to check the oil temperature gauge while to oil is out and I can hang it in hot water of a known temperature 70/80/90deg

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2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

so I dropped the sump plug when I got home to drain down while nice and hot (dam near burnt my hand in the hot oil 70deg)

 

Ah but now you know how hot the oil was that nearly burnt you :biggrin: whereas before it was pure guesswork!

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Hello All

              Just thought the oil would look a bit dirty as I assembled mains and big ends with Graphgen

I tested the sensor then this Numpty managed to break it when refitting it(the wall thickness was very thin honest!)Bloody Train again?

Still I can put a plug in for now and just drain some oil out when I get the new one.

Roger

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Hello All

                I had a close look at the broken sensor today and I think it is poorly made?

I measured the o/d of the thread and the I/D of the hole looked up the thread depth did the calculations and there was a difference of 0.040"

In other words 0.020" wall thickness!!!! and it is made of Brass?

I know I may have been heavy handed but I still think it was a disaster waiting to happen!

What do you all think of these plug colours? I think they look ok! I know you can not go plug colours so easily these days with modern so called petrol(chemical mix)

Roger

DSC06934.JPG

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Hi,

 Plugs look textbook good in my opinion.

If your running 20W50, you might consider a more modern xW40 oil? It will flow much better and lower the oil temperature. I would recommend Mobil 1 FS 0W40 that has better anti wear than any 20W50 or 20W60 out there. 

Interested in where and what size hole you find in the gallery for an oil temperature sensor post oil pump.

Cheers,

Iain. 

 

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14 minutes ago, spitfire6 said:

Hi,

 Plugs look textbook good in my opinion.

If your running 20W50, you might consider a more modern xW40 oil? It will flow much better and lower the oil temperature. I would recommend Mobil 1 FS 0W40 that has better anti wear than any 20W50 or 20W60 out there. 

Interested in where and what size hole you find in the gallery for an oil temperature sensor post oil pump.

Cheers,

Iain. 

 

Hello Iain

                 I have changed the oil to this for the forth coming trip to Spain and Classic Le Mans as it has good reports and lots of ZDDP

She holds 70 psi at 1000 rpm (cold) and 45/50 psi  (hot) and the oil light takes about 10+ seconds to come on when engine is stopped.

I may try some different oil later but she will get hot in Spain and we intend to do a lot of Pyrenees passes so that should work her and test the EFI baro correction

I think the one pass is about 6,500 to 7,000 feet high 

https://www.classic-oils.net/Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50

Roger

ps I will run a report on TSSC forum and maybe here if people would like it?(I know this is a more technical forum) 

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Hi,

 Of the five groups of engine oil, the one you are using is a group 1 according to their website. Good to see honesty in oil companies.

It is cheap & bottom of the league as far as oil is concerned. It's an API SL rated oil and I suspect it wont last long under pressure as it's loaded with additives I suspect?

If you feel 20W50 oil is good for you, maybe look at a better quality one? Group 3 or better?

Source: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

Please do not quote me on TSSC, as I have received an admin warning about my comments on oil..

 

Cheers,

Iain.

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Hello All

               I have been thinking!(dangerous)

Shall I changed the engine oil now as its done 2,300 miles and got very hot! and re torque the head down?

I have given the Microsquirt 10% authorisation as Spitty runs rich but afr table is only about 13.5 at these points(5% before)

Plus I have reduced the fuel cells at higher throttle openings as there was a big jump from were the auto tune had altered them (done with no load in car ) 

I have been thinking about the Baro correction would,nt the auto correction sort it out up to a point?(I will still adjust the settings when I work out which way to go!)

I think the ITB setting change over point needs altering as I get very low MAP even at light throttle which I think confuses the program(and me)and it may think the throttle is wider open than it is? or have I got that wrong?(its like wading through treacle)

Roger

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