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I have decided to Megajolt the GT6 ,  which my lad has renamed "Thug" after having been out in the Stag last weekend, he says being in the 6 is like being beaten with a stick!

The long term plan is to go EFI , but I dont have the funds to throw at it currently(or indeed the skills to make plenums and stuff) so I have decided to MJ. It means the sensors coilpacks etc will be in when I do decide to go EFI , and I can just sell the MJ ... Long term I am thinking Jenvey style DCOE throttle bodies and Emerald..... hence my need to save up!

So with this in mind this weekend will see me start with the setup. I want to keep the car running whilst I get stuff sorted so I will try and run it kind of parallel to the dizzy short term until I have the EDIS side working, then do the Megajolt over a weekend in a fortnight or so when I am back from Holiday.

So far I have this bit done... IMG_20180524_205643.thumb.jpg.61c242d5b358b3de5f2c9fcf72d759b9.jpg

As the car is currently on triple 40s I have had an adaptor machined to extend the throttle spindle on the rearmost carb as I am going to run on a TPS for the 3D side of the ignition. The plan for this weekend is to get the pulley off and the timing cover (which leaks like a sieve when hot but is dry when cold!), see if I can sort the oil leak, mount the pulley with the trigger wheel and the VR sensor and see if I can get it to fire on EDIS. If things go well I will also try and mount the TPS. I will just point to point wire short term to test as the wiring in the car is a  mess anyhow and I will sort the whole lot together once the lot is in and I know exactly where everything is going.

I understand the wiring is vital to get right in terms of good positive connections. One question, the first of many I am sure, is what is the best way of joining wires. In normal circumstances I would just crimp and spade connector stuff together, but as I want the system to be reliable and sound is there a "best practice" to avoid wiring pitfalls.

Anyhow I will try and update with photos as I go on.... this is the latest Megajolt with USB connectivity, it will be interesting to see if it helps avoid the refusing to talk to laptop problems people have had. 

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15 minutes ago, Bumblebee said:

 

I understand the wiring is vital to get right in terms of good positive connections. One question, the first of many I am sure, is what is the best way of joining wires. In normal circumstances I would just crimp and spade connector stuff together, but as I want the system to be reliable and sound is there a "best practice" to avoid wiring pitfalls.

 

Good luck with the MJ.

As for joining wires together people have different opinions, if your using crimps either bullet or the horrible red / blue/ yellow modern ones then a decent crimp tool is a must. If they are exposed to the elements then a dab of solder helps as the wires will eventually go black from water. If you can get your hands on some put a dab of Moly III grease on the connectors before you mate them.

If your joining wires then mechanically twist them together, solder & cover in glued heat shrink.

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I opted for twisted, soldered, and heat shrink around each joint, the only connectors I used were to a junction box right next to the MJ unit, so that it was easy to modularise, but also kept the cables between junction box and MJ as very short tails.  I spent a lot of time ensuring that the cables between VR sensor and Edis, and Edis an MJ were well and continuously shielded, and that everything really shared common power and ground points.

As you are where I was on the Vitesse 5 months ago may be worth reading the following thread as a lot of people contributed to helping me, and mine just about worked first time.

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7637-trigger-wheel-mounting-vitesse/

I also did full wiring diagrams, if you want a copy just ask.

Alan

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Hi Alan, 

Reading your thread was what made me decide to go down the mapped ignition route. My car is a fun "toy " for the road but with triple 40s which we don't want to loose short term as we like the noise! They do however want lots of initial advance like 16 degrees, which if I wind into the dizzy puts all in advance up in the 35 area. Not a real problem currently as I am running in so apart from acceleration I am not anywhere near WOT, but I'm sure there are economies to be had by sorting a 3D map and getting something more sensible in terms of MPG, and still controlling the all in advance on big throttle openings. Whether I keep the 40s long term depends on whether I ever get the Webers running well (ie jetted by a pro) and with some kind of economy. If not EFI will be a long term goal.

 

Your thread is my go to thread and answered a lot of my questions before I started.  Thanks both for your tips on wiring. I think I will crimp to get it fired onto the EDIS, then solder and heatshrink the final example.  Whats the odds I get hung up trying to sort the oil leak , and get no where near fitting the EDIS!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bumblebee said:

I think I will crimp to get it fired onto the EDIS, then solder and heatshrink the final example. 

 

Thats just about what I did to check initial EDIS working, but I did use shielded cable from the VR sensor to the EDIS.

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Well I decided to go on holiday so things took a back seat for a while but this weekend , after much faffing I finally got things to work! There was more than one visit to Alan's thread to see how people went around problems.

I decided the best thing to do was to mount the megajolt assembly onto a board first which would then be fitted to the car interior. A bit of rooting about in a crap pile at work and I had enough bits to put the thing together , so I spent a friday night with crimpers building the molex connectors and ended up with a tidyish board to put in the car . I warn you now this is as neat as it gets. Everything else after this will look more and more spaghetti wiring!

On to mounting the EDIS and coilpack. I decided to use the old servo mount to mount the EDIS onto , as it would also allow me a dedicated Earth mount, and mounts for the two relays I was installing, one for EDIS and one for the MJ itself. The front servo mount was having the plug leads fed through it so I did not end up with loads of trailing plug leads. It turns out it was the one part of the install that is vaguely tidy. I am currently running triple 40s so I got someone to machine an adaptor for the rear one , then tapped and threaded it and screwed it onto the rear carb. I threadlocked , then drilled thru the spindle shaft and put in a split pin for added security. Once all together I made a mount for the TPS, and blobbed it with some mig to hold it all in place. I have not tidied any of this up yet so dont judge me! I am not the greatest welder anyhow.

I then tried to fire the car, without the MJ plugged in. When it didnt start but let go a couple of big carb spits, one which almost blew a filter sock across the road I played with leads. I worked on the theory the middle ones must be right , so swapped left and right, and it fired straight up. Feeling flushed with success decided to mount the fan on the front of the pulley only to discover it interfered with the bracket for the VR sensor, which I could not shorten. Modded the fan by taking chunks out the back with the grinder! This does not matter, it will have an electric fan soon, but I wanted some kind of cooling whilst I played, and an out of balance plastic fan is no biggy short term. I also did not hit the 10 degree mark which annoyed me somewhat, but it was not a mile off , so adjustable in MJ .

Finally on Sunday morning I wired in the MJ itself sorted the relays and fired it. I had loaded a mildly modded version of the Nick Vitesse map he put on Alan's thread I think, and calibrated the TPS which was remarkably painless. I went for a first fire and got sweet Fanny Adams. 

Now according to my reading of the instructions, one pin from MJ is to run the coil pack live , enabling hard rev limiting. However my wire out of MJ is/was doing nothing, no live output as all. I dont know why , I have still to play with it. So a quick run to the engine area and I wired the coilpack off the EDIS feed and fired it.

It works, it switches maps, it does what it is supposed to. Go me , I am a genius. Ask my 12 year old assistant to turn off the engine. Ask him again, he hands me the keys.... the engine is still running! Ahhh....

A quick root about and I discover I have swapped a couple of relay leads so the ignition is not turning relays off. What a plum.

Anyhow took it for a test drive. Wow. It really does make a noticeable difference. A Question... will a stronger spark change me AFR readings? It seemed to be running leaner across the board, but without the usual weber spitting when too lean. Maybe its just me.

Decided to plumb back in my spin on adaptor with oil cooler and an oilstat. The cooler and adaptor were on the car when I got it but no stat. I have been using a cartridge filter whilst running in. Fitted adaptor.... fired car. Pissing oil everywhere . Start after sorting, no oil pressure at tickover, despite me knowing the oil pump is good..... as it just pissed oil everywhere. Weird. Read up about dodgy old spin on adaptors and that new spring loaded ones are better. Will order one. So I fitted a new canister filter and started. It has no oil leaks but zero gauge pressure and light still on. I gave it a quick rev up to 2000 ish and suddenly oil gauge leaps to 60 and light goes out. I wonder if something was stuck then cleared. I will have to investigate. 

So all in all a success. My MJ is the latest with a USB port so I did not have to battle cables etc. 

I need to revisit the wiring to tidy it all up and solder the currently crimped terminals, but using crimps did help me sort problems quickly.  Then I will add my electric fan and a new spin on adaptor, hopefully sort this weird oil pressure thing and get to a rolling road if I can find one locally to sort out my map, and my webers properly. 

Thanks to all who have been before ,who answered lots of questions with the search facility!

 

 

 

IMG-20180613-WA0006.jpeg

IMG_20180617_170144.jpg

IMG_20180617_170158.jpg

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1 hour ago, Bumblebee said:

Now according to my reading of the instructions, one pin from MJ is to run the coil pack live , enabling hard rev limiting. However my wire out of MJ is/was doing nothing, no live output as all. I dont know why , I have still to play with it. 

It works, it switches maps, it does what it is supposed to. Go me , I am a genius. Ask my 12 year old assistant to turn off the engine. Ask him again, he hands me the keys.... the engine is still running! Ahhh....

Anyhow took it for a test drive. Wow. It really does make a noticeable difference. A Question... will a stronger spark change me AFR readings? It seemed to be running leaner across the board, but without the usual weber spitting when too lean. Maybe its just me.

Well done! nice to have another success story!, and yes the wiring does seem to go on and on....

Not sure (as I haven't tested that output) but if your talking about pin 16 I thought that only worked if you had ordered the MJ with the inbuilt hard rev limiter (but I could be wrong)

I also have a strangeness with running on I kept the ignition key (as a simple idiot start prevention) and also so that I didn't need to play with standard lighting wiring etc, but the ignition on terminal I used as the feed to my big ignition Kill switch, which when on triggers a relay, which then powers everything ignition. If ignition switch not on I have no power to kill switch and nothing will turn on, if I have power to kill switch the kill switch will turn on or kill everything, if engine running kill switch will stop it, however if engine running and I just turn off ignition switch (thus killing power to kill switch) the engine carries on running! but flick the kill switch and it stops. Can't quite get my head around this one, and not really a problem as the kill switch does what its intended to.

Re AFR's my guess (and its only a guess) is that rather than it being a stronger spark, its more likely to be the ignition timing, the table that Nick posted, the one I use, and most other example all have way more advance in the low/mid range at low load settings than you can get out of a mechanical dissy, so your starting the burn cycle earlier which should give a cleaner better charge burn. This I suspect could be why your AFR's are showing leaner, Webber's are crap at precise lower rpm fueling anyway, so if your AFR's are still in the acceptable range even if leaner, enjoy!   You may also find like I did that the much better advance curve in the low to mid range pulls a measurable amount of torque back down into that band.

Alan

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Ahh, Electrical stuff sends me over the edge very quickly! I work it all out on a piece of paper but then it goes wrong once theres 20 wires all over the place.

Well according to MJ, the E mk2 with usb connection now comes with built in hard rev limiter. I cant say its a disaster it not working, although it sent me down yet another electrical dead end. I aim to come back to it but never will probably. 

Should I leave plug gaps the same or open them a tad now I have, in theory at least , a big fat spark . 

It is without doubt more responsive on the throttle, and stutters less in transition. I am quite impressed. I am sure a good rolling road can tune the carbs and tweak the map and I can move on to the next thing. Which is probably front suspension. Well once the oil filter issues are sorted.

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3 hours ago, Bumblebee said:

Should I leave plug gaps the same or open them a tad now I have, in theory at least , a big fat spark . 

 

I asked the same question, I think its one of ask 10 people get 10 different opinions.

The guy at the RR said No, if you had a good coil and spark before, you don't need more.

Nick suggested I tried the TRi-Electrode Bosch plugs, which are now down to NOS only and getting hard to find, so I tried the newer Super4 electrode ones instead, zero complaints haven't swapped them back out, engine pulling like a train at Shelsley at the weekend.

Some reading suggested that on conventional Dissy Ignition, that if you got a very good coil, electronic breaker etc, that there was an advantage to opening up the plug gap to get a bigger spark, as the timing is dissy mechanical advance getting a bigger spark that can propagate a better flame front aids combustion when the timing isn't as advanced. With MJ you now probably have the timing much closer to optimum.

As an observation modern cars with modern ignition systems don't seem to use plugs with much bigger gaps.

However, as you now have MJ and a set of plugs, I'd love you to try it and let us know the results! There is no substitute for real testing.

Alan

Edited by oldtuckunder

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Maybe that is because there are 10 different engines.

The more compression you have or the better the filling of

combustion chamber is, the more difficult it becomes to ignite the mixture.

Also the spark plugs play a role, the smaller the middle electrode is

the easier the spark can jump.

So turbo engines require smaler gaps and smaller middle electrodes.

Unfortunately they burn faster so they are made from expensive material

to last a little bit longer.

 

The bigger the gap the better is the starting of the ignition,

but only if the spark jumps!

 

So its an individual choice, I would make the gap as large as possible.

I can see that in Megasquirt Log when AFR rises for a very short time. In that case a

spark did not fire the cylinder. If that can not be detected (and this will happen under high load and high revs and will

not be a full misfire of one cylinder) you can not hear it and you often do not feel that.

 

Best is to increase with a normal TR6 engine to 0.8mm or 0.9mm if at all.

As it does no harm I would stay close to 0.7mm unless you know what you are doing.

The expensive plugs do not help much on a normal road car, they simply cost more money.

 

I would evaluate the spark plugs with special side electrodes, some have three or more of them.

They are based on the theory that good fuel mixture will have less resistance and so the plug "sees"

where the best area is to fire the spark and meet a good mixture to ignite the cylinder filling.

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7 minutes ago, Triumph-V8 said:

I would evaluate the spark plugs with special side electrodes, some have three or more of them.

They are based on the theory that good fuel mixture will have less resistance and so the plug "sees"

where the best area is to fire the spark and meet a good mixture to ignite the cylinder filling.

Nick has said for a long time that he thinks Triumph engines like the three side electrode Bosch ones, and I have no complaints with the 4 side electrode ones recently fitted, however having just gone MJ as well it hard to make a valued judgement.

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First of all, well earned congrats to Bumblebee for joining the Cyborg Triumph gang. It truly does make big difference. I was most surprised when I added dizzy-less sparks to the already 'squirted Vitesse.

I'm not going to blather on again about plug gaps except to say "you are using E-DIS use E-DIS plug gaps" and use multi-electrode plugs, preferably Bosch, because  my fairly extensive experience says these Triumph engines like these plugs as least as much as any other, they come with the right gap, they are reasonably priced (except in Australia) and they last a long time.  Yes, blathering on again........

 

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Well fairly extensive experience is something I dont have , so I will take that advice. Now I have the EDIS I may as well maximise what it gives me.

The actual mapping side of things is a dark art to me so I am going to stick with the curve I extrapolated from Nick's map. Am I right in saying below 40 percent throttle I am just running effectively the first line of the map. I set my map to come in at 40 percent throttle which is the way I rerad Nicks one

This is what I plonked in , allowing for fact I had to narrow his map as MJ is only 10x10. I am putting it up now, just in case I have made a huge cockup that someone spots. 

In essence I am saying... check this please! Tickover is 800 ish on my car and the webers dont like less than 15 hence that being the opening number on every line.

image.thumb.png.e9620ce335c5a78bb73ed867ca660828.png

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Please be careful with my map. It is for Megasquirt, so the load axis is upside down, and it is also for manifold pressure not throttle position. The 100% load line is good, the rest is suspect. Main point is that at low rpm you don't need much throttle opening to give full manifold pressure. I did try tweaking one of Alan's post RR maps, but I was guessing at the time. Alan did later send me some log traces which should give an idea of the relationship between rpm, tps & manifold pressure but I've not done anything with them yet. Likewise, don't know if Alan had tried my map.

Until you are certain that all parameters are being correctly read and giving expected responses, be very careful about adding advance over and above the figures from the full load line elsewhere in the table, especially in fairly high load/rpm areas. It's awfully easy to let the smoke out of your pistons if you get into the det zone. Must admit that until I spent time with Alan on his system I'd not seriously looked at TPS systems and thus hadn't appreciated the greater risk of adding extra advance by accident. A starting table with all load lines the same as the 100% line is probably the way to go. This is in effect a 2D table with advance to be added  in the lower load areas as you get to grips with it.

Don't let anyone tell you the third dimension doesn't matter. Drag racers aside, it will have a positive effect on anything, but especially road cars.

Nick

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Good post! 

This goes to show a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. (on my part I hasten to add!)

I had made the assumption load is load is load, without accepting load map based may not correlate to tps loadings. I had worked out yours was upside down , or the right way up depending on your take. 

Still thats why I loaded it up online and you have spotted it, saving me possibly a great deal of time and money. Funnily enough I have loaded a vaguely modded version of Alans original mapping as the second map. so its the pull of a switch to change to that, which I will do for safety . 

Thankyou very much Nick. Responses like the above are worth their weight in gold.

 

 

 

 

 

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Nick as usual beat me to it!

Below is the map we ended up with after the RR session.  I have another with zero load as the base line but same values as 40, this is because we discovered on the RR that sometimes MJ was reluctant to show an active cell on the 40% load line when the load was less than that, it shouldn't but it did, the zero line sorted that.

Re difference between MAP and TPS if you look at page 12 on the Triggerwheel thread I posted some logs of TPS and MAP,  as you can see at high load i.e. low vac wide throttle they are very similar, but at cruse there are very small TPS movements to large MAP movements.  Most of the improvements we made on the RR were to slightly reduce max advance at max load max revs, and so slightly increase advance at medium revs high load. The latter is what brought torque improvements down the curve.

Alan

mechgoodMJmap.jpg.160c6f0b1d3f4c56e93c80270fcaefda.jpg

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Thanks Alan , that is very interesting, the fact you can effectively begin shifting the torque about using small changes to advance is something I had never really thought about , and as you are using it in a competitive environment I bet its a godsend. 

I think for me the safest bet is to load a safe curve and book some RR time to get a nice map for fun road use, and get my carbs properly tuned at the same time. I am enjoying learning, every day is a school day as they say. There is a place near me in slough caled Novatech, I will give them a call and have a chat with them. 

As I mentioned before I am pondering going with some 40 style throttle bodies and going EFI a year or two down the line , so every little thing I learn now helps. Of course the benefit of going MJ now is I can sell the unit when the time comes and I will only have to really deal with the fuelling side of EFI.

thks again for sharing your map

 

Andy

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14 minutes ago, Bumblebee said:

Thanks Alan , that is very interesting, the fact you can effectively begin shifting the torque about using small changes to advance is something I had never really thought about , and as you are using it in a competitive environment I bet its a godsend. 

Nick thinks we could have probably done better in the mid range but we were starting to battle time, the afore mentioned lack of an active cell showing in Megajolt Lite Configurator (A lot of mid range is below 40% throttle opening) , and another electrical gremlin that crept in so that MJ refused to take a map update with the engine running, so instead of twidling cells and hitting update whilst running on the RR, we had stop, update, and then restart. As we had already sorted the areas I was concerned about for high load running, we stopped.  Of course the following day the MJ and Configurator were both behaving properly again. But you know what they say if it can go wrong it will.

Be really interested to see any results you get on the RR eventually, as I suspect the areas of the map that will most benefit your target usage are the areas that are way underdeveloped on mine. On which point you may well find that a 25 or 30% line on your map might be useful, as the engine is generating a lot of useful power at 1/3rd throttle, whereas in road driving with a 2ltr 6 you don't spend much time at all in the 90/100% area, well not and keep your licence.

Alan

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I'm not saying you shouldn't use a rolling road, they are a great, if pricey tool.

However, if you go steady you can certainly tinker yourself on the road. Key areas for drive ability are light and mid-throttle up to 3k. Stay below 3k and you're unlikely to hurt anything as if you too far, it'll just pink.

With my sixes I've found they'll take amazing amounts of advance on light throttle without protest and at times I've taken some out to tame the throttle response as they just get too eager to drive smoothly.

I have difficulty visualising what your map will look like but I think you'll end up with the load action compressed in the top left with the full load numbers repeating a long way up, and then opening out downwards as you go right across the table and the air demand goes up with rpm.

Other than getting best full load torque, the RR is great for finding how much advance it wants for max torque at specific rpm/load points. I try to pick ones that equate to typical cruise points. You don't need to do loads, a picture emerges.

Enjoy!

Nick

 

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Thanks Nick. 

I am more concerned about the actual mapping than the install.  Installing it , it either works or doesnt, there is kind of no middle ground.  I think it is trying to build an understanding of what I am actually trying to achieve, something I am not sure about myself really!. I am hoping that adjustments will be clearly felt just in terms of seat of the pants, and over egging the pudding will give me a pinking warning so things will be obvious.  

Having read your and Alans comments over the last couple of days I am going to re write a map, effectively off of Alans, but expand it down to 20 or 25 percent throttle which is where I am going to be at tootle along mode, find a helper, get at a cruise speed and push advance in  touch at a time and see what gives. 

All this over ignition mapping. Ive got an engine to build at some point.... think of the questions I can ask doing that! Its an old vitesse block with a 308778 cam original pistons knackered crank (eaten at the back by a disappearing thrust washer) and a head thats never had a skim but needs valve guides. Destination my MK2 spitfire if I ever finish welding the body together.. Still thats for another thread at another time. 

 

 

 

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Hi all, 

Thought I would update you all. 

Today I drove 85 miles (call it a shakedown drive) to bdengineering.co.uk for webers and a bit of mapping on a rolling road. I had no preconceptions so if I got to 104 horses it should have that would be cool. Of course I hoped for me as its got manifolds and webers and a TLD cam, and a bit of head work.

The guy there Andy, was brilliant, let me hang around, help out on the laptop and explained what he was doing and why.

First run was to set a baseline which ended up at 112 bhp, but it was the state of the line we needed to deal with. Andy said it was going stupid rich at WOT and fluffy in other places . 

He rejetted me up to a 55f9 idle , 115 mains and 170 airs. We then did a couple more power runs before we started on the megajolt. He somehow set the load (beyond me) then started pushing in advance

image.thumb.png.bb58769cfeb40cb662a725c63205b655.png

 

so this is what we've ended up with. As Nick and Alan suggested all the action is mid table but it has made throttle response more snappy and thats what we were after. 

After we had road tested we got back on the rollers for a proper power run.IMG_20180917_151822.thumb.jpg.55046ab0f050616bde97b65e2a116e45.jpg

the print wasnt all that so ive had to use a pen. The difference is obvious! We only took the thing up to 5400 rpm, as Andy said, theres more but its just a number, and this is a road car I need to drive home. The engine is fresh but is it really worth redlining for a number?

IMG_20180917_151829.thumb.jpg.4af44010cb5508297ec0ec1309bb8b94.jpg

The final scores on the doors are 126BHP plus change, and as you can see its still pulling at the end, it just isnt worth chasing..

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the drive home was great, much more responsive so I am pleased. Pleased with the numbers, pleased with the service I got and pleased with the price which was very reasonable. 

Thanks to all that helped me with my initial maps and advice. My car was between an immaculate Lotus Cortina and a Lotus Elan. Its fair to say I was bringing the side down!

Andy did say I had got it there or thereabouts, especially carb sync was spot on, and I wasnt too far away elsewhere. That is down to you guys so thankyou.

Imnow thinking I should maybe do a club sprint or hillclimb. Ive done no motorsport since the early 90s racing motocross bikes. But Ive got this GT6.. tatty, but mine, and surely there is fun to be had somewhere?

 

image.png

Edited by Bumblebee

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That looks pretty respectable - though I'm not sure if you've told us what the spec of the engine is (cam, headwork, which manifold etc).  Drives well, goes well - works for me :smile:

Nick

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3 hours ago, Bumblebee said:

Hi all, 

Thought I would update you all. 

so this is what we've ended up with. As Nick and Alan suggested all the action is mid table but it has made throttle response more snappy and thats what we were after. 

After we had road tested we got back on the rollers for a proper power run.

the print wasnt all that so ive had to use a pen. The difference is obvious! We only took the thing up to 5400 rpm, as Andy said, theres more but its just a number, and this is a road car I need to drive home. The engine is fresh but is it really worth redlining for a number?

 

The final scores on the doors are 126BHP plus change, and as you can see its still pulling at the end, it just isnt worth chasing..

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the drive home was great, much more responsive so I am pleased. Pleased with the numbers, pleased with the service I got and pleased with the price which was very reasonable. 

Imnow thinking I should maybe do a club sprint or hillclimb. Ive done no motorsport since the early 90s racing motocross bikes. But Ive got this GT6.. tatty, but mine, and surely there is fun to be had somewhere?

 

 

Really interesting, comparing your GT6 to my Vitesse, with similar mods, but webers instead of 1.75 strombergs, and a TLD cam to my backwards CW one.

We have very similar torque curves both maxing out at 123 ft lbs, mine at 4.6K and yours at 5k, both giving 110ft lbs at 3K, I'm pulling higher torque in the 2-3K band, but that will be the CD carbs and longer inlet manifold advantage, whereas your torque is holding up in the 5-5.5K band where mine is just starting to nudge down, that will be the weber advantage in the fueling, as I know I'd like to be a tad richer in the 5.5K up band.

My max bhp at 6k is just 2 below yours at 5.5K and you have some in hand if you went higher.

All in all a nice set of numbers, and if it feels like mine to drive, then its very smile making!

Depending on what other mods you have done, looks like it could be nicely in the fast road going class for the TRR Sprint and Hill Climb championship and not uncompetitive.

Alan

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You are right Nick I should have said.

So the engine is a fresh build with about 1000 miles on it. " 2 litre as I wanted a more revvy engine. Lightened flywheel, all balanced,  TLD cam which I believe is 35 75 symmetrical, it deffo comes on hard. Its overbored by 20 thou, and has one of TLD's old race heads on it, so the inlets are opened right out, the ones GT used to rant about . It has triple 40s, with the manifolds with the worst linkage ever, I cut the linkage off and put rose joints in to get it in a position to balance the carbs. 

It also has a new phoenix 6-3-1 modded in the same way yours is Nick to clamp up on the collector,  usual oil filter spin on adaptor, oil cooler with a stat, electric fan,  and thats about the size of it.. Oh yeah , the block was decked too, but I have no idea what the CR is , I didnt do it, although I would next time.

Alan, Ive started with the engine. Next it needs shocks, the front avos are leaking, and it desperately wants a full alignment, it feels "floaty" if thats a term, at speed.

But I am genuinely thinking I might have a go at something. Ive never done anything competitively on 4 wheels, so its fair to say I will be holding the car back , not the other way!

Edited by Bumblebee

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