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Bugrug

Noob from Market Harborough

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Hi All

This site has popped up in far too many Google searches when I've been researching my GT6 rescue project  for me not to finally join in! 

Currently working on the said GT6 with the original intention of keeping it a fairly standard drivers car but with a few little improvements. 

Rebuilt cylinder head, girling servo, master cylinders, dash wiring, 175CD carbs, electronic points replacement and suchlike. 

However due to the current engine bottom end woes and a spare 2500 lump up t'barn it's looking like the standardish intent is being eroded somewhat! 

Have enjoyed a lot of your time spent and comments posted on various triumph topics, a veritable wealth of information indeed. 

Hope to join in myself soon. 

 

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G'Day Bugrug, 

Welcome aboard.  Glad we could help.  The very best way to share the joy is to post up whatever you do to the car so others can follow along as you have.  We love photo's here, please feel free to post some up of the project!

Cheers

Craig

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Hi, and welcome, Bugrug (!?)

A 2.5 is the engine that a GT6 should have had, but of course it would have competed in-marque with the TR6, so it never did.

Slightly lower geared, and lighter than a TR6, you can tune it for low down torque and it'll pull until you nerve goes.   Enjoy!

John

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Saying that a properly tuned 2 litre can be quite rapid, don't think i can afford the Dellorto jets to go up to a 2.5, tuning for the 2 litre was expensive enough.

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You can certainly get decent power from a 2L without huge difficulty.  Certainly enough to exploit the standard brakes and suspension to the full (and more).  The 2.5 is the quick way to torque though.  I always resisted going 2.5 in a small chassis car due the tendency for this extra torque to tear the already somewhat marginal driveline to bits.......  I did think that the engine I built for the 2.5PI would have been a monster in the Vitesse (or a GT6), but.......!

Bugrug, I'd have a good look at the true condition of your 2.5 before committing.  The 2.5s are not as wear resistant as the 2.0s.  What are the issues with your 2.0?

Nick

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Thanks for the replies, it's most encouraging indeed. 

To answer a couple of questions, photos, I'll get a few posted up when I get on the pc to compress the files. 

Nick, the thoughts around the 2500 transplant are;

The 2500 was in my kit car and is known to be in good order, effectively its also free which is another bonus. 

The original 2000 I'd like to have kept but now having been able to run it for more than 2 minutes due to various problems I can hear a rumble suspiciously similar to mains bearing woes. Also when warm the oil pressure drops off from 40 psi cold idle to less than 5 psi hot, only rising to a little over 10 psi hot at 3k revs. Then there is a muted whirring chirping noise which I'm attributing to worn cam bearings. This is all theoretical interpretation at present. 

Oil pressure relief valve checked, cleaned and washers added just in case it was stuck open, curiously this has a lot of wear to the sides indicating its been quite active in its past!?!? 

A large part of the 2500 decision lies with the finances, which are slim. 

Shame really as the 2000 has +20 domed pistons with good bores. 

 

It's a weird old car combining a mixture of really good quality modifications and work with some dreadfully attended bodges. 

Almost as if it was someone's pride and joy once with some nice upgrades attended but was then subsequently ravaged by a max power reader..... 

 

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Fair comment and advice there Red, I'll likely plastigauge the mains and big ends whilst they are easily accessible too. 

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I would agree that your 2000 sounds very sick.  Crank grind, shells and oil pump not horrifically expensive if the bores etc are ok.  Can see why the "free" 2500 would be attractive. If the mains and big ends are still VP2 type and not showing copper - keep them!  Be a rarity these days though........ Revington TR do (or did?) decent quality alternatives.  Otherwise it's King/County HD TRi-metal.

Thrust washers; see this guy for a lasting solution

http://www.customthrustwashers.com/

Nick

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 "worn cam bearings."

Unless they were fitted at a later date, it ain't got none.   Production Triumph sixes all ran the cam bare in the block.

JOhn

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2 hours ago, JohnD said:

 "worn cam bearings."

Unless they were fitted at a later date, it ain't got none.   Production Triumph sixes all ran the cam bare in the block.

JOhn

My research says you are dead right on this, having looked into line boring costs to add cam bearing shells made my bank manager cry! 

I'll likely keep the whole 2000 motor in storage, just in case, and it is the original engine, I guess thats hoarder mentality for you :)

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2 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

I would agree that your 2000 sounds very sick.  Crank grind, shells and oil pump not horrifically expensive if the bores etc are ok.  Can see why the "free" 2500 would be attractive. If the mains and big ends are still VP2 type and not showing copper - keep them!  Be a rarity these days though........ Revington TR do (or did?) decent quality alternatives.  Otherwise it's King/County HD TRi-metal.

Thrust washers; see this guy for a lasting solution

http://www.customthrustwashers.com/

Nick

Brilliant, thanks for this. 

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