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After a change of situations over the past few years and getting frustrated by modern car electronics, I am considering getting another Triumph.

I am looking for a 2000 or 2.5, manual, preferably with overdrive and a current MOT.

I'm not too fussed about originality as I would want to EFI it at some point.

Thanks,

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Hi, the old ship is keeping me plenty busy and is a big reason for me moving to Bideford, North Devon,have a look at https://www.facebook.com/SSFreshspringSociety/ for recent pics and info.

I bought an A3 last year thinking that it would be a reliable modern, but it failed it's MoT due to emissions. Having plugged it into a computer, they can see multiple sensor faults, which may be due to oil burning (could be terminal), so I might have to turn my back again on modern vehicles and go for something I can understand and and fix myself.

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If you want a reliable modern, you should probably avoid any VAG product (or even any German product) from 2000 onwards......  Good ones are ok.  Bad ones are very shit and will break you mentally and financially.  It is difficult to tell between the two at purchase!  If you must own one then you probably need to invest in VCDS (Ross-Tech).  There is a freeware version (though it is quite seriously crippled these days) and a less limited DIY version, though again it also has it's limitations (you are only allowed to talk to a limited number of cars with it, though earlier stuff doesn't have ID and thus doesn't register).

What year and what engine?

Nick

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Multiple sensor faults......  Does it actually run ok?  Do you know what the actual emissions figures were?  Does it use oil?  Alot of modern Audis do use too much oil but the CATs mostly seem to survive it.

If there is an engine temperature sensor fault then it may run too rich 'cause it thinks it's cold.  However, if the numbers aren't way out then a pot of injector cleaner and a damn good thrashing often sort things out.  The MoT folks often just let the car sit idling for the whole of the test and call it warm enough at the end for the emissions test.  My A8 never went through like that - both times I had to take it up the road and cane it a bit, then it would be well under.  It did have aftermarket CATs though.

That estate is almost local.  I'd want a good poke at the structure before bidding though, the later cars can really rot.

Nick

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Apart from it not quickly dropping back down to tick-over when you let your foot off the accelerator, it starts and pulls OK, but there is excessive smoke from the exhaust. From the MOT fail:

Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (four times the limit)
Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits
Exhaust emits dense blue smoke at idle
Exhaust emits excessive dense blue smoke during acceleration

It does suggest that it should be burning oil, a bottle of injector cleaner and an oil change has not changed anything. The fear at the garage I took it to was that new sensors fitted would be damaged by the burning of oil.

 

Almost tempted to have a look at that estate as it is so close, but I fear that taking on someone else's project could be more trouble than it's worth to me.

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Smoking on VAG stuff is often caused by breather pcv valve issues.  Unless it's got diesel in it...... which expect it hasn't.

If you are getting visible smoke from the exhaust after everything is properly warmed up it does suggest that CAT is dead.  They are amazingly effective at making smoke disappear when they are working.  The A8 was using about a litre of oil every 500 miles (some of that leaked admittedly) - no smoke visible once warm.

How much oil does it actually use?

Nick

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Bit of googling suggests that PCV valves and breather pipe are indeed an issue on this engine (AKL code?).  Probably too late for the CAT though......

Our Kia Ceed 1.6 has been faithful (apart from needing a clutch at 110k).........

Nick

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Hmm, I've checked all the breather hoses and they looked fine. I never noticed any oil consumption, which makes this fault even more infuriating to me. It's not even breathing out of the oil filler cap 'that' heavily on tick over.

The engine code is BGU or BSE.

Looks like a CAT would be at least £125 plus sensors and fitting, which wouldn't be too bad if I was sure that would fix the problem. I'd do a cylinder pressure test, but you can't get to the spark plugs unless you have a special tool or remove the inlet manifold:down:

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Had a look at this one https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C940292 low mileage and un-moloested (other than some MOT garage style welding)

IMAG1.jpg.08bc2f55437117b2f24fb8108c5afa2f.jpg

Drives nicely, though it needs a tune-up. My gut feeling is that it's a bit too pricey as it needs new tyres all round (plenty of tread, but they look to be from the previous century) and it needs welding on sills and a few other spots before the rot spreads. What are your thoughts? Am I being too pickey?

IMAG4.jpg.a7bedeadd590d57b017e5a930cd338ba.jpgIMAG3.thumb.jpg.ba98b591e08035e55d78c55f6234c07a.jpgIMAG2.jpg.c64b6b0ac8299e8f2c99ce20cdda8e83.jpgIMAG5.jpg.aab76a06277a65828a56290f8df0bd92.jpg

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£ 7k does seem like alot.  26k miles..... with full documented service history supporting it?  Without that it's just a number on the dash.

Looks like a pretty decent starting point, but there will be plenty of welding needed when you go digging.  I'd have thought 4 - 5K tops.  My very straight and well sorted PI EFI (with no chassis welding ever) fetched £ 5K in 2014......  I know prices have gone up a bit since then but even so.....

Nick

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Nick, thanks for the reality check, for 7K I was hoping for much better bodywork. From the paperwork it appears that the mileage is genuine, but it's that need for bodywork which puts me off it.

 

oldtuckunder, thanks for the suggestions, I'm really looking for a manual and within about 3hrs of North Devon (though I realise that I might have to look further)

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Think the vendor needs a reality check.  It is a nice basis for a light resto to sort the iffy bits of bodywork properly (not "MoT standard" plates & pigeon poo welding) - then £ 7k.  It's a late car and lowish spec - the only thing it's really got going for it is the "low mileage", if verifiable, and all that probably means is it's done the miles the hard way - in 5 mile bursts, with the choke out.  Try to use it daily and you'll spend 6 to 9 months getting the bugs out and they won't all be minor either.

Nick

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On 2/21/2018 at 3:36 PM, oldtuckunder said:

2500S ESTATE on ebay at the moment, needs some work.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-2500s-estate-very-rare/222847327144?hash=item33e2bc5ba8:g:-8YAAOSwUiJai1pU  Just to make sure, I had a look this estate this morning. Far too much body required for my liking sills, screen surround, door bottoms, wheel arches etc. Also, no fuel inlet system.

red4.jpg.3fe665809990d96ab0d64ec767df9db6.jpgred3.jpg.dba1c5c9e3117449d819496a4de16045.jpgred2.jpg.21853acf0f240b0ac07f80fd6c986702.jpgred1.jpg.48e86678ce222e299b458bc26254e268.jpgred5.jpg.db462ed6abd4614a646004253d164bf3.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

A quick bump for this wanted, as I'm still on the look out for another Triumph big saloon.

Went to look at one today, but it'd had cover sills fitted, which had already rotted through by the b-post and there looked to be jacking rust beneath them too.

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