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oldtuckunder

Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

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7 hours ago, oldtuckunder said:

Well the WR78X's stayed in at Abingdon, and re happy sounds had several complements about how sweet the Vitesse sounded at full wail, was pulling around 6K in fourth at a couple of spots before rapidly approaching corners spoilt it! It ran sweetly and a handful! of seconds off PB over the combined two courses for the day. Of course a lot to do with Tyres, probably increased MJ torque lower down the band. But no complaint about the plugs the engine certainly didn't dislike them!

Alan

As all no, mine doesn't have MegaJolt, yet.  The eminent, motorsport jounalist John Aston is now writing a report for the CSSC after each meeting, and after Oulton said, " John’s Vitesse didn’t only look quick, it was quick and it also sounded like a cut price E-Type. "

It's the straight-six, I tell you, JUST like an E-type.

John

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Darn, looks like Laptop and Dissy and Leads have to go in the toolkit for every event now!

Birthday week this week (they have to last a week at least to get value for money) so was taken out for lunch on Wednesday. As an extra treat I was allowed to take the Vitesse "Hood Down"  Now the Vitesse doesn't do much road mileage, and certainly SWMBO doesn't in it,   I think there is an expectation by someone that its going to break down and dump us somewhere!, but as a treat for me and as only a few miles we took it.

Warmed up and off we went, and whilst I didn't say anything after a mile or so I knew something was wrong (but kept very quiet!) believe me I wasn't trying to accelerate hard (as that would be a certain Return Home, Do Not Pass Go, Do Not Collect any Brownie Points offence) but it wouldn't accelerate, we sort of gathered momentum, and popped and banged loudly on over-run.   I actually think I got brownie points for such a smooth pleasant drive. Good Lunch, return journey same problem.  

No time yesterday, but thought I'd better take a look today, by which time I was already pondering if perhaps I'd been running on Edis Limp Mode. I had been! hooked up Laptop to megajolt, trouble getting comms, report of failure to download active map, and yes although apparently nothing working the advance display on the configurator was showing 10 deg.  Ok no probs, upload my good map, commit to flash, everything working fine again.  As I have a switch for an alternate NJ config, this time I programmed it to an identical map, in the hope that maybe if the MJ looses map1 again, there is a faint chance that map2 might be switchable to. I doubt it I suspect what ever erased map1 would have done for map2 at the same time.

So looks like my instinct to keep dual wiring and a simple plug switch to change from dissy to Edis and MJ was worth it.  I have always taken Cap, Leads, and Rotor arm to events since switching to MJ, but now looks like a LapTop has to be a permanent part of the tool kit now as well.

Alan

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For MS at least, that kind of issue seems to be the result of power supply issues (spikes? Dropouts?) causing firmware corruption.

Might be worth adding filters/suppressor or even a dc/dc converter? Or perhaps a modern alternator.......

Nick

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Would be interested in the details of the DC/DC converter.  Friend still has occasional issues with his TR6 MS ECU.

Nick

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Hi,

 Emerald K3. Had Mazda carbon leads and restive plugs. No problems until one lead went bad. Fitted non R plugs, no problem.

Fitted a set of nice looking leads from Retro-leads on EBAY. Utter crap. Refund issued and leads in bin.

Fitted a set of custom Magnecore expensive leads. Car was able to run again. But;

Car breaks down. Strange settings in map and also, car breaks down before level crossing; starter motor gets me out of way.

Car breaks down. Will not restart. ECU sent back to Emerald. Emerald check out and return FOC after setting the crank-wheel setting. Was corrupted to Ford from Rover.

Fitted R plugs & tickety boo. HT side of things cause loads of problems if not suppressed.

 

Fitting a cheap DC to DC converter has potential for future problems. I have loads of Buck-Boost converters. I would not use them in an attempt to fix your problem. A low ESR Capacitor might be helpful? A 100nF & 100uF might help? Proper grounds and HT noise reduction would be my first port of call. DC-DC converters my last.

Cheers,

Iain

PS. The link provided is for a Step Down converter. Of no use on a 12 volt car!

 

 

 

Edited by spitfire6
Link above is not a boost converter.

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On 7/6/2018 at 9:35 PM, Nick Jones said:

For MS at least, that kind of issue seems to be the result of power supply issues (spikes? Dropouts?) causing firmware corruption.

Might be worth adding filters/suppressor or even a dc/dc converter? Or perhaps a modern alternator.......

Nick

Hi Nick,

 Agree about what you say. The second last choice, DC/DC converter, I do not.

Also, a modern alternator? I thought they were all the same poles, & hence same frequency? Never measured the frequency, but would like to know the poles? Especially, if changed over the years.

Cheers,

Iain.

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55 minutes ago, spitfire6 said:

a modern alternator? I thought they were all the same

Nick is alluding to my perverse sticking to the original dynamo as its still working, and also the engineering required to effect a quick replacement isn't easy.

I do have good leads and resistor plugs, and immediately after re uploading map all was well.

I know all was well when I parked it a few days before, because I had just been out on a test run, but either on shut down or when started next  the MJ lost its memory.

So if you don't think a DC/DC converter would work (nb I have done a quick off car test with this one using a battery and a light, and using the adjuster I could set 12V output according to my multimeter) what is  A low ESR Capacitor might be helpful? and where do I get/fit one?

Alan

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17 hours ago, oldtuckunder said:

Nick is alluding to my perverse sticking to the original dynamo as its still working, and also the engineering required to effect a quick replacement isn't easy.

I do have good leads and resistor plugs, and immediately after re uploading map all was well.

I know all was well when I parked it a few days before, because I had just been out on a test run, but either on shut down or when started next  the MJ lost its memory.

So if you don't think a DC/DC converter would work (nb I have done a quick off car test with this one using a battery and a light, and using the adjuster I could set 12V output according to my multimeter) what is  A low ESR Capacitor might be helpful? and where do I get/fit one?

Alan

Ahh dynamo. I guess a modern alternator is more efficient now, with better silicon.

Caps, I would use a tantalum 35v, 63 or 100uF, parallel to a 100nF ceramic disk, 100v.

The DC/DC converter i saw was a step down, so no good. A DC/DC boost, buckle converter, fused correctly and set @ 13V8DC would be my choice if going down that route.

Cheers,

Iain

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Hi,

 A link that shows why Tants are better than electrolytic's, at a cost with max ratings lower than other caps. Lower ESR than most.

Nice and compact to fit on the board.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tantalum_capacitor

One for different types;

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

Cheers,

Iain.

Edited by spitfire6
Added a meter

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18 hours ago, oldtuckunder said:

Nick is alluding to my perverse sticking to the original dynamo as its still working, and also the engineering required to effect a quick replacement isn't easy.

So, your running with a solid state regulator? Shouldn't need that much filtering, compared to Ye Old mechanical one. Not many micros back in the day.

Cheers,

Iain

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26 minutes ago, spitfire6 said:

Ahh dynamo. I guess a modern alternator is more efficient now, with better silicon.

Caps, I would use a tantalum 35v, 63 or 100uF, parallel to a 100nF ceramic disk, 100v.

The DC/DC converter i saw was a step down, so no good. A DC/DC boost, buckle converter, fused correctly and set @ 13V8DC would be my choice if going down that route.

Cheers,

Iain

Given that even from the link I have no idea what "a tantalum 35v, 63 or 100uF, parallel to a 100nF ceramic disk, 100v." is or where I'd fit it, but I can find a DC/DC boost, buckle converter, and can work out how to install it, was wondering if this is the sort you mean?  I did find others that required soldering in, but as I'd like to make this plug in/out this one seems good, and also had a neat LCD voltage display,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XL6009-LED-DC-DC-Voltage-Step-Up-Boost-Converter-like-LM2577-3-32v-input-UK-Fast/182177792880?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52975%26meid%3D0bf6ce55bbf246c2a67d5ed072d94d29%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D181898976057%26itm%3D182177792880&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A61a9cd1d-82cb-11e8-89b2-74dbd180312a|parentrq%3A7ab567971640ac1cbc3f5a12fffb7cb1|iid%3A1.

 

Alan

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Just now, spitfire6 said:

So, your running with a solid state regulator? Shouldn't need that much filtering, compared to Ye Old mechanical one. Not many micros back in the day.

Cheers,

Iain

No I don't think so, I'm running with an old dynamo and one of those big old mechanical voltage regulators, so my expectation is its not very clean!

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13 minutes ago, oldtuckunder said:

Given that even from the link I have no idea what "a tantalum 35v, 63 or 100uF, parallel to a 100nF ceramic disk, 100v." is or where I'd fit it, but I can find a DC/DC boost, buckle converter, and can work out how to install it, was wondering if this is the sort you mean?  I did find others that required soldering in, but as I'd like to make this plug in/out this one seems good, and also had a neat LCD voltage display,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XL6009-LED-DC-DC-Voltage-Step-Up-Boost-Converter-like-LM2577-3-32v-input-UK-Fast/182177792880?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52975%26meid%3D0bf6ce55bbf246c2a67d5ed072d94d29%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D181898976057%26itm%3D182177792880&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A61a9cd1d-82cb-11e8-89b2-74dbd180312a|parentrq%3A7ab567971640ac1cbc3f5a12fffb7cb1|iid%3A1.

Alan

Hi Alan,

 That looks like from specs it would stabilise, varying; 5 to 15+ volts, to 13V8 if set. 

LED display is extra cost. Even if it did tell you the output voltage was 15 volts, I think you would already of guessed that?

Cheers,

Iain.

PS. You would need to keep it away from metal & fuse it correctly. It would need to be kept cool. Low voltage on the input, likely while cranking will cause it to get too hot or luckily shut down. You won't get full spec out of the device, without additional cooling.

Edited by spitfire6
PS

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3 minutes ago, oldtuckunder said:

Many thanks will order a couple (always pays to have a spare!)

Alan

Put fuses around it & keep it cool. Should be tickerty boo.

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Hi,

 eBay item number:162684974768 would protect your ECU if the DC/DC converter died and spat out more than 15 Volts. It costs three times the DC/DC converter...

Cheers,

Iain.

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Alan,

Did you get that dodgy HT lead back together properly?  As Ian has already said, there is nothing quite like HT "leaks" for causing ECU-disturbing noise.......

Nick

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2 hours ago, spitfire6 said:

Put fuses around it & keep it cool. Should be tickerty boo.

 eBay item number:162684974768 would protect your ECU if the DC/DC converter died and spat out more than 15 Volts. It costs three times the DC/DC converter...

 

I have the feed for the MJ on its own fuse so can use that as the feed, are you advising an additional fuse between it and the MJ?

Is this the same item as 162684974768 at a 1/3rd of the cost from the same seller?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MPTE15-Diode-CASE-DO201AD-MAKE-Motorola-Semiconductor-Products/162684986971?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3D231cfd4584104dc4a42e76b1e97591d8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D162684974768%26itm%3D162684986971&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

PS I assume I would put this between converter and MJ in pos line, how do I tell if one blows in the future, do they blow?

Alan

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1 hour ago, oldtuckunder said:

I have the feed for the MJ on its own fuse so can use that as the feed, are you advising an additional fuse between it and the MJ?

Is this the same item as 162684974768 at a 1/3rd of the cost from the same seller?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MPTE15-Diode-CASE-DO201AD-MAKE-Motorola-Semiconductor-Products/162684986971?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3D231cfd4584104dc4a42e76b1e97591d8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D162684974768%26itm%3D162684986971&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

PS I assume I would put this between converter and MJ in pos line, how do I tell if one blows in the future, do they blow?

Alan

Hi,

 The link i showed was for a crowbar suppressor is fitted across the power input connectors to STOP any voltage above 15 volts, for this model.I would fuse both sides.

Voltage suppressors are used with a fuse. If it ever requires replacement; it died to protect your electronics

 

Cheers,

Iain.

PS. The part looks the same, but more normal price

Edited by spitfire6
ps

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On 7/8/2018 at 5:37 PM, spitfire6 said:

 

 That looks like from specs it would stabilise, varying; 5 to 15+ volts, to 13V8 if set. 

LED display is extra cost. Even if it did tell you the output voltage was 15 volts, I think you would already of guessed that?

 

Well it arrived and I fitted yesterday. Wired it so that if it fails or I suspect problems I can remove from circuit and revert with just 4 spade connectors.

The LED display was useful, but not as I originally thought. I had assumed that it told me the output voltage I was adjusting to, but it doesn't it shows input voltage. I first wired it up with a bulb as the demand and when I first powered it on was surprised to see it showing 12.8V, at first I thought magic almost what I want, but then thought strange if the output could be 5-30V what were the odds that it would be set in the middle about where I wanted it, so hooked in the multi-meter and sure enough output was 30V!   Anyway adjusted to 13.5V on output and hooked up to Megajolt, and started car a bit with baited breath in case it all went bang, and had laptop hooked up to MJ to monitor.

All worked well, the LED showing that without engine running I'm getting around 12.8/12.9V and with engine running dynamo and voltage regulator are giving most of the time around 13.4-13.6V with occasional drops to 13 and occasional peaks of 13.9V.   The multi-meter on the output seemed to be holding at 13.5V. 

So now I have something that tells me what output voltage I'm getting from the charging system, and also have belt and braces on the MJ power supply, which may or may not help prevent what ever event it was that made it loose its memory before.

Alan

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