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ivangt6

Ivans GT6

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I've been lurking on this forum a while now so I thought I'd post my GT6 restoration on here.

I've had it a good 7 years now and It has and I have relied on it as my daily driver through a good portion of that. during that time I replaced the gearbox with a rebuilt one from td fitchett. I wasn't impressed with it. I'm pretty sure the synchros weren't new. Aside from that I ditched the strombergs for some SU's, electronic ignition and relays for the headlights. The whole time I had it though it had an awful propshaft vibration. The sliding joint on the prop was worn leaving the prop U/S. It was a non overdrive car and I didnt want to waste money on a new prop to then decide a few years later to go overdrive so I bought a second hand overdrive box and rebuilt it myself using all new bearings, new synchros, new 1st/2nd synchro hub, new layshaft and new reverse idler. overdrive just got new bearings. while I was fitting it I noticed some cracks in the paint where the lip above the windscreen should have been (got told when I bought it it had been welded flush here as he couldnt get the panel). Well it all went a bit t*** up from here

new a pillar panels made, a pillar drip rails, roof lip panel made, rear inner wing repair panels, boot floor repairs, rear inner wheel tub repairs, new outer wheel tubs, rear wings, sills, bulkhead repair panel, front wings, front outer wheel tubs, and a lot more besides. 

Plans are to get the metalwork done this winter and to have it in paint by the summer. It was Sapphire blue when I got it which was slowly fading purple. I'm going back to the original Emerald green. I have a lowering block for the rear and I'll get hold of a kit to lower and stiffen the front. Engine wise I want to do most of the rebuild myself however I will be looking at getting the head skimmed to raise compression, unleaded valve seats and a bit of valve/port work, TR5 cam or a fast road cam depending on what is best and im not sure about fuelling yet. keep the SU's, bike carbs, webers, PI injection, Other throttle bodies??

This forum has a lot of knowledgeable people on it so please feel free to offer advice and insight.

Pics to follow

Cheers

Ivan 

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Good work.  Overdrive makes a big difference.  Are you sticking with the 3.27 diff (assuming it still has it)?

One of the best things you can do for your front suspension IMO is fit Koni adjustables.  Even with the standard springs they are a big improvement.  Check out Bastuck Germany prices before buying in the UK - still competitive even with the sick pound.

Is yours a rotoflex rear of late swing spring?

 

Nick

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As Nick mentioned diff ratio I will add that the 3.65 diff seemed ideal for my taste with the O/D.  They are rare in the US but common in Europe I'm told?

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This is true.

Non OD GT6 should have a 3.27 diff fitted which gives fairly relaxed cruising, but really quite tall first and second gears.  With OD cruising is very relaxed.  Good for 2.5 engined cars (though the 3.26 diff is reputed to be (even more) fragile.

From the factory OD cars had 3.89:1 which gives cruising similar to non-OD + 3.27 but lower gearing elsewhere, thus brisker accleration.   If anything, a little undergeared

As Steve mentions, the 3.63:1 diff as found in the 1500 Spit (except the emissions-strangled US spec ones) makes an excellent half-way house if you have OD fitted and gives the best of both worlds.  This is what I have in my Vitesse and what I will put in my GT6 if I decide to hang on to it.

The 3.63 is unfortunately hard to come by in the US though as the only way that ratio was sold there was in the early 4 speed TR7 with manual transmission - and then they have to be transferred into a small chassis casing.

Nick

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