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Nick Jones

Nick & Chris's Gt6 Mk 3

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Not cheap - but none of the decent paints are.  That's another reason to get some thinners as not only does it go on nicer, it goes further too.

Nick

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So why did Zeibart and all the other aftermarket "rust-proofers" think that spraying the under-bonnet area with bitumen was a good idea?  I've had 3 cars now where this has been done.  My magenta Sprint (definitely Zeibart), my pimento PI (not Zeibart but very similar) and now this GT6.  In general it does a fair job of stopping the car dissolving, but the underbonnet area does nothing to help that and looks ever so ugly.

It also takes flippin' ages to get it off....... though the extreme cold does help there as it chips off cleanly

P1170250s.jpg

I'd already taken a couple of dustpanfuls to the bin when this was taken - and I scraped the bulge area last weekend.  There's kilos of the stuff.  And it had some horrible furry fire-trap matting stuck over it.

P1170251s.jpg

Getting there......

Nick

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Dip it yourself, just need a tarp, 12V battery & some OMO suds, i do it on a smaller scale i.e biggest so far is blocks, doors, axles, sure you could up scale it.

 

 

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I have never had the misfortunate to own a Triumph that had a Ziebarted (or undersealed) under bonnet area,
instead I have had them where the underside was coated, which was good and and the insides of B and C posts too.

:blink: For reasons best known to themselves, the insides of the sill structures and other box sections were left untreated........

 

 

 

Ian.

PS: Following this thread with interest, I do admire folk who take the trouble to post photos detailing progress....
me, I come in from working on the car and can't be bothered writing about what I have just been doing.
:biggrin: Given that this is the tenth anniversary of RBRR 2008, is the GT6 going to be entered this year....?

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The bilthamber stuff is very good worth the money, i use the deox gell on anything that goes back to bare metal, their carnuba waxes are also top quality.

Be interesting to see how that paint holds up, i used to swear by Por15 but its not lasting as they say it should despite spending hundreds of pounds on all their recommended products, it still chips and peals off in sheets, i wonder if the formulation has changed, as we have the corvette painted in it and its much much better.

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3 hours ago, Sprint95m said:

:biggrin: Given that this is the tenth anniversary of RBRR 2008, is the GT6 going to be entered this year....?

No.  Not even if ready.

As someone who can't sleep sitting up, let alone in a moving vehicle, the RBRR is too heavy-duty.  It also lacks Alps...... (though I did thoroughly appreciate the Scottish leg)

If the GT6 is ready it will be at the Dartmoor stop (Badgers Holt) where I believe I'm down to marshal again.

Nick

 

PS.  I've had mixed results with POR15 also.  It's great if you can get it to stick (and it certainly sticks to me) but even when their directions are followed religiously I didn't find it reliably stuck to the car.

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We've been messing with a chassis.  Various relatively minor repairs, and a jig........ hopefully dual purpose

P1170810es.jpg

Now ready for paint and fitting to the tub (or tub fitting to it)

Nick

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Paint......

P1170821s.jpg

It's a horribly knobbly object to paint......

........ and stripped the rear end mechanicals as I need to send the VLs for machining to CV spec

P1170822s.jpg

Some strange things had happened during last assembly (loose bolts everywhere with locking tabs set) and I don't think it had done many miles since - but the good news was that the guy had had a grease fetish so everything came apart easily.  I don't think I've ever dismantled a roto rear end (and I've done LOTS) where not only have both wishbone bolts come straight out but bolt radius arm bracket bolts too!  Last pair of VLs I've seen this nice was probably the exchange ones for Nick Moore's GT6 (dry-state US car IIRC).  Maybe there is hope for the rest of the mechanicals..... (oh no there isn't, the diff feels really baggy)

Nick

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Chassis + tub = Car?

P1170823s.jpg

We even wrestled the windscreen in to make sure that the screen surround and roof repairs hadn't messed the shape up too much.  Was a right royal battle (partly because I didn't want to use lube pre-paint) but it's gone in and looks ok.

Chassis + tub + bonnet really does look more like a car.

P1170826s.jpg

Big final panel-fit fettling session now.  Then paint stripping and detail bodywork finishing......... deep joy :ermm:.  The paint that is left is scared of nothing :down:

I also have this EV GT6 idea that is probably very daft but won't leave......  Parts needed are fearsome expensive.........

Nick

 

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Kind of..... if you squint a bit.  Looks very small back down off the rotisserie - and it's still above normal running height!

Nick

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Yeah..... I can (and have) sit in the Vitesse for days at a time and still walk afterwards.  If my relatively short runs in the Spit are anything to go by, this will not be the case in a GT6......

Nick

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On 09/04/2018 at 6:58 AM, Nick Jones said:

  I don't think I've ever dismantled a roto rear end (and I've done LOTS) where not only have both wishbone bolts come straight out but bolt radius arm bracket bolts too!  Last pair of VLs I've seen this nice was probably the exchange ones for Nick Moore's GT6 (dry-state US car IIRC).  

That's right, my car, abused as it was, seems to have spent most of its life in dry climates. You've reminded me of the hassle of posting those uprights to you, having them sent back because of snow, and then me hand-delivering them while on holiday. After all that trouble they should have been perfect.

As for the diff, Craig and I can recommend the Subaru conversion. No more diff-shaped time bombs!

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