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Nick Jones

Nick & Chris's Gt6 Mk 3

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Not cheap - but none of the decent paints are.  That's another reason to get some thinners as not only does it go on nicer, it goes further too.

Nick

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So why did Zeibart and all the other aftermarket "rust-proofers" think that spraying the under-bonnet area with bitumen was a good idea?  I've had 3 cars now where this has been done.  My magenta Sprint (definitely Zeibart), my pimento PI (not Zeibart but very similar) and now this GT6.  In general it does a fair job of stopping the car dissolving, but the underbonnet area does nothing to help that and looks ever so ugly.

It also takes flippin' ages to get it off....... though the extreme cold does help there as it chips off cleanly

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I'd already taken a couple of dustpanfuls to the bin when this was taken - and I scraped the bulge area last weekend.  There's kilos of the stuff.  And it had some horrible furry fire-trap matting stuck over it.

P1170251s.jpg

Getting there......

Nick

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Dip it yourself, just need a tarp, 12V battery & some OMO suds, i do it on a smaller scale i.e biggest so far is blocks, doors, axles, sure you could up scale it.

 

 

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I have never had the misfortunate to own a Triumph that had a Ziebarted (or undersealed) under bonnet area,
instead I have had them where the underside was coated, which was good and and the insides of B and C posts too.

:blink: For reasons best known to themselves, the insides of the sill structures and other box sections were left untreated........

 

 

 

Ian.

PS: Following this thread with interest, I do admire folk who take the trouble to post photos detailing progress....
me, I come in from working on the car and can't be bothered writing about what I have just been doing.
:biggrin: Given that this is the tenth anniversary of RBRR 2008, is the GT6 going to be entered this year....?

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The bilthamber stuff is very good worth the money, i use the deox gell on anything that goes back to bare metal, their carnuba waxes are also top quality.

Be interesting to see how that paint holds up, i used to swear by Por15 but its not lasting as they say it should despite spending hundreds of pounds on all their recommended products, it still chips and peals off in sheets, i wonder if the formulation has changed, as we have the corvette painted in it and its much much better.

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3 hours ago, Sprint95m said:

:biggrin: Given that this is the tenth anniversary of RBRR 2008, is the GT6 going to be entered this year....?

No.  Not even if ready.

As someone who can't sleep sitting up, let alone in a moving vehicle, the RBRR is too heavy-duty.  It also lacks Alps...... (though I did thoroughly appreciate the Scottish leg)

If the GT6 is ready it will be at the Dartmoor stop (Badgers Holt) where I believe I'm down to marshal again.

Nick

 

PS.  I've had mixed results with POR15 also.  It's great if you can get it to stick (and it certainly sticks to me) but even when their directions are followed religiously I didn't find it reliably stuck to the car.

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We've been messing with a chassis.  Various relatively minor repairs, and a jig........ hopefully dual purpose

P1170810es.jpg

Now ready for paint and fitting to the tub (or tub fitting to it)

Nick

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Paint......

P1170821s.jpg

It's a horribly knobbly object to paint......

........ and stripped the rear end mechanicals as I need to send the VLs for machining to CV spec

P1170822s.jpg

Some strange things had happened during last assembly (loose bolts everywhere with locking tabs set) and I don't think it had done many miles since - but the good news was that the guy had had a grease fetish so everything came apart easily.  I don't think I've ever dismantled a roto rear end (and I've done LOTS) where not only have both wishbone bolts come straight out but bolt radius arm bracket bolts too!  Last pair of VLs I've seen this nice was probably the exchange ones for Nick Moore's GT6 (dry-state US car IIRC).  Maybe there is hope for the rest of the mechanicals..... (oh no there isn't, the diff feels really baggy)

Nick

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Chassis + tub = Car?

P1170823s.jpg

We even wrestled the windscreen in to make sure that the screen surround and roof repairs hadn't messed the shape up too much.  Was a right royal battle (partly because I didn't want to use lube pre-paint) but it's gone in and looks ok.

Chassis + tub + bonnet really does look more like a car.

P1170826s.jpg

Big final panel-fit fettling session now.  Then paint stripping and detail bodywork finishing......... deep joy :ermm:.  The paint that is left is scared of nothing :down:

I also have this EV GT6 idea that is probably very daft but won't leave......  Parts needed are fearsome expensive.........

Nick

 

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Kind of..... if you squint a bit.  Looks very small back down off the rotisserie - and it's still above normal running height!

Nick

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Yeah..... I can (and have) sit in the Vitesse for days at a time and still walk afterwards.  If my relatively short runs in the Spit are anything to go by, this will not be the case in a GT6......

Nick

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On 09/04/2018 at 6:58 AM, Nick Jones said:

  I don't think I've ever dismantled a roto rear end (and I've done LOTS) where not only have both wishbone bolts come straight out but bolt radius arm bracket bolts too!  Last pair of VLs I've seen this nice was probably the exchange ones for Nick Moore's GT6 (dry-state US car IIRC).  

That's right, my car, abused as it was, seems to have spent most of its life in dry climates. You've reminded me of the hassle of posting those uprights to you, having them sent back because of snow, and then me hand-delivering them while on holiday. After all that trouble they should have been perfect.

As for the diff, Craig and I can recommend the Subaru conversion. No more diff-shaped time bombs!

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Yeah..... bloody idle-bastard Parcel Farce driver.  Sure he was in the office car park but didn't fancy getting out into the snow......

Nick

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Looking very good :yes:

And good to hear that the screen still fits, on the picture the screen surround looks like Triumph had made it that way.

JC 

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Thanks...... doesn't look quite so good close up as it was the first bit of lead loading I've ever done - and not really a beginners job!  Will be fine with just a little filler though.

Nick

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With some decent weather at last it was time to pull the rest of the oily bits (and they are VERY oily) off the chassis.

We'd already shifted the bits at the back so that meant "wheel-barrowing" it out of the carport so as to get the engine as close as possible to it next temporary resting place.

P1170905s.jpg

Engine and box removed.  The 'box was easy.  The engine, not so much.  Damn they are heavy!  Only had to move it about 3m fortunately

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Apparently this had been deemed acceptable at some point in the past.......  I thought not......P1170907s.jpg

....... and I reckon I was right

P1170911s.jpg

Looks like there had been an attempt to straighten it - the metal appears heat-affected - but very poor job and the internal structure is clearly damaged.  Would need that front corner swapping I reckon.

Mechanicals wise...... plenty of slop in the gearbox input shaft so the main-shaft spigot is probably toast.  Not a surprise.  I'm ignoring the engine - it's a saloon lump stamped ME (late 2000, most boring spec) with the mounting legs partly hacked off.  It's been blowing oil out of everywhere so likely knackered.  Only good news (other than it actually turns) is the SAH rocker cover, which should make a useful positive contribution to the budget when sold!  The diff has lots of backlash and doesn't seem to have any oil in it at all......  I have what seems to be a decent 3.63 in stock so I reckon we'll swap the rear casing over and use that.

And if you are thinking that this is displacement activity to avoid doing any bodywork, you'd be partly right.  We have also been messing with the door and bonnet fit and are now approaching the zone of acceptability.  Tailgate fit........ still some way to go!

Nick

 

 

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Are you open to offers on the SAH cover, or is is going on the bay of E ?:biggrin:
My weezie saloon engine needs some bling to go with the TR6 manifold and early saloon PI cam waiting to go in.

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3 hours ago, SpitmkIIICPH said:

Are you open to offers on the SAH cover, or is is going on the bay of E ?:biggrin:
My weezie saloon engine needs some bling to go with the TR6 manifold and early saloon PI cam waiting to go in.

Erm...... I've seen what they go for.......  This one isn't mint, though not bad and the chrome on the cap is pretty good - and it's a flip cap.  Debating whether I can be bothered to strip the crackle finish off and re-do it to get top dollar....

Nick

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No credit to me for the work.  Most effort I've made is to stagger the 30m to the garage (and it is quite an effort right now :ermm:)

We've assembled most of the parts needed to turn it into a rolling thing (took some effort from my payment card!), just need to find time and strength to bolt it all together.

P1180002s.jpg

And today Chris seam sealed and painted the inside

P1180003s.jpg

P1180004s.jpg

Not so much progress but better than no progress!

Nick

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Looking good :biggrin:

I imagine that it must be very hard to be at home all day long and not being able to do anything constructive ….

Be patient and you'll recover fast and continue working on the car soon !

JC

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Work still severely hampered by infirmity...... :down:

but I did manage to work up the minimal energy needed to create this....... electrolysis tank...... knocking the rust off some remarkably mangy callipers.

P1180009s.jpg

I've also managed, over the course of several days, to make the minimal steps needed to get the MGF hubs altered and the rear links built up.  Which meant this could happen......  Chris did the hard work, I supervised

P1180011s.jpg

Nick

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Since the last report the front suspension has been bolted back together (though vertical links/hubs etc are not the final ones) and the steering rack completely overhauled and fitted.  It now rolls and the handbrake works.

This means we've run out of excuses not to strip the remaining paint........:pinch:

Chris did the roof with an electric DA sander attached to a hoover.  That worked fairly well...

P1180103s.jpg

Then we tried various methods on the bonnet.  Hot air gun and teamwork proved the quickest (after considerable experimentation) so only half a bonnet away from all the really thick stuff being off.  There are about 6 coats in total, couple of them really thick - more than a mm in total.  The lines in the panel pressings are much sharper now, and the car has lost a bit of weight.

Part way through

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and back in the garage with a coat of etch primer on the roof

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3 in a row....... couldn't resist a pic.

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Spent a bit of time trying to get the hatch to fit and came to the conclusion it's a waste of time without the seal present.  The seal seems to have been binned.

Opinions on what it should look like seem to vary - can a GT6 owner please show me what works for them so I can buy the right thing first time.....

Nick

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