Martin Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I have the LR 9037L studs in the front hub. With the minilite replicas everything is fine. Since a time I have steel wheels. Much thinner at the mounting area. Unfortunately now the unthreaded part of the studs protrudes out of the hub, so that it is not possibe to tighten the wheels. o.k. I removed a bit of thread from inside the wheelnut, but I do not like that solution, as the top uf the wheelnut gets thin and compressed. So looking for other wheelstuds with longer threaded area, as butting more thread on the LR ones was strongly disapproved by experts. I found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x8-12x1-5-65mm-LONG-ALLOY-WHEEL-HUB-STUD-WHEEL-STUDS-FORD-OTHERS-/151333130666?hash=item233c2851aa#ht_2616wt_1256 But only 13mm spline diameter. Any thoughts? Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Eh....? The main reason for using the Freelander studs is that unlike most of the others, they have thread almost to the splined part so don't (usually!) suffer from the problem you mention. Might be worth looking at the nuts. You mention removing a bit of thread from inside the wheel nut. Some nuts have a slight counterbore by design. Also, you get various different cone sizes and angle which will affect how far into the wheel the nut goes before clamping it, which could be another way of solving the same problem. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Unfortunately the studs I bought do not have the threaded part up to the splines. And I bought OEM replacements. See pics. Thus searching alternative parts. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Today I was fitting Freelander wheel studs to the Spitfire (actually GT6 front suspension) and noticed this........ Out of a bag of 16 studs identified as CLP 9037, 14 were like the two on the left (correct) and threaded almost to the splines. However the two on the right are clearly different (and wrong!) and actually match the huge collection of R100/MGF studs I have removed from the hubs because the threads don't go close enough to the splines. Seems looking around on the 'net you see both types described with this part number which I don't think is correct. The correct OE LR ones are threaded all the way down. You'll also find CLP9037L listed, but it is not clear whether these are different in any way and again you'll find pictures of both styles against that number. When fitted, the fully threaded ones look like this Clearly what is needed for steel wheels, though the others will work ok for some alloys. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveJM Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Has any one managed to obtain the m12 x 1.5 studs with full length thread? I purchased set for front (Rear MGF hub has full length threads) the image on the web site (product CLP9037L) indicated the full length thread but alas arrived ...thread cut short... Wondering if any one has been able to locate a suitable reliable supplier of these studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 (edited) see pic, critical with steel wheels, I ordered the bearmach stuff. Edited May 15, 2018 by Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 sorry clicked somehow too many times on the pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 (edited) Don't forget when using longer 12mm Studs, to either use non closed nuts, or to very very carefully check that the studs aren't bottoming out in the nuts. This will happen if the long Freelander Studs are used with a number of the closed nuts on steel rims. I always have one nut with either the cover removed or the head machined off so that I can check, also helps scrutineers check that you have 1.5 x thread diameter depth of thread location. Alan Edited May 15, 2018 by oldtuckunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Talk to somebody like Island 4x4 or LRDirect, go for bearmach or allmakes not 5h*tpart. (IMHO) And definitely heed Alan's warning w.r.t. closed/open nuts and them bottoming! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 As further up this thread, CLP9037L Landrover Freelander mk1 studs should be fully threaded. Some suppliers confuse them with the non-fully threaded version used on R100/Metro and MGF (dunno what the part number is for those*) and mis-supply, even to the extent of mixing the two types in the same bag. If you ordered CLP9037L and get only partially threaded ones you need to contact the supplier and explain the error of their ways...... Nick *Edit: MGF / R100 studs are P/no. FAM8419 - very similar apart from threaded length - probably no good for most wheels but if you want some I have lots of used ones...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 I found the allmakes ones had the correct chamfer on the head to sit nicely in the hubs on the Spitfire as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveJM Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Thanks for your help. trying to get confirmation before next purchase.. steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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