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1 hour ago, thebrookster said:

Dare I say it Nick, but some gym time might be worthwhile? For the last few months, I have started doing some regular gym time (gym for two days, third day rest), albeit only 20 mins to half an hour each session and the difference it has made is staggering. 

I'm reasonably energetic - always do a fair amount of walking and even a bit of cycling again this year.  You certainly won't catch me going to an actual gym but what you say about calisthenics at home is a good shout.  I did quite like swimming and it did alot for my general fitness but pool availability is a bit troublesome.

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MoT pass gained this morning. Advisories of corroded fuel return pipe - and it is, plus CV joint gaiters on their last legs, which they are. Emissions were no drama. Blew 0.7 first try..... The t

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I'm surprised you haven't taken up, cycling, Phil, just the thing for getting from one end to the other of one of your ships!

I fear it might not suit your back, Nick, unless you had a 'sit-up-and-beg' style bike.     I enjoy mine - well it was Daughter's but she left it at home at one stage, and has never reclaimed it.   So it's a  smaller frame that my ideal, which is very 'street' just now.      I can push up the saddle and get a longer leg push, but that leaves me with a crick in the neck.     I've ordered a "stem raiser" for the handlebars, see if that helps.   

Must be lots of bridleways around you, Nick, once your back is supple again.

 

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I do ride John. Not in younger sons league though. He’s done more than 10k already this year and came 6th in the Portlock hill climb on Sunday. His GF won the ladies.

I have two bikes. An elderly Trek hybrid that is sit up and beg and does tracks and bridle ways, but also a full-on Giant road bike built from hand-me-downs from young sir. That weighs less than 8kg whereas the Trek is twice that. The Giant is way faster but less comfy. 

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So, now that I’m only stiff and sore, but not actually immobilised, I thought I better crack on with this.

The second trailing arm bush hadn’t actually disintegrated(though it was working on it), so I had to chop the middle out of it with a hole saw so I could use my screw press. That went ok. Fitting the new one (have to use a long bolt and a random collection of washers and spacers to do that because the screw press is too fat), was a bit of a trial because it kept going in at an angle and jamming. Must have got lucky on the first one.

Then managed to reattach the beam - bit tricky Solo on the drive - but left it dangling while I did battle with the handbrake and exhaust. The handbrake cables are straightforward with the exhaust and heat shield off. One point of interest and a suspicion confirmed is that the long standing clonking noise from below is the the cable splitter/adjuster knocking on the heat shield. It’s the shiny patch to the left of the split......

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Not sure why.... I’ve massaged it a little to increase the space. One possible reason is that the cables were too slack (though handbrake action is ok). The new cables are very much less slack - to extent that I had a major wrestling match getting them back on the calipers....... and now the handbrake is permanently on :blink:. Remember I said access is easy with the exhaust and heat shield off?  By the time I discovered this they were back on......:mad:. The book says it can be done with them in place..... not obvious how!

In between, I attacked that scary looking clamp on the exhaust. It was horrifically corroded but not, as it turned out, to the point of disintegration. It actually put up a fair old fight.....6A60BD52-9CC7-4886-88E7-C0FB819F5DE7.jpeg
The remains. The actual exhaust and sealing ring were perfect and have gone back together with a simple manifold clamp. It’s hanging properly for the first time in ages so the original joint must have been displaced at some point (reckon I know when that happened!).

Just got to bleed the brakes and tighten the bush bolts with the suspension at running height - oh...... and sort the handbrake adjustment. If I can actually move tomorrow.

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The wife's Fiesta has started making knocking noises again.

Last time it was a section of the exhaust heatshield but can't be that now as I threw it away!

I suspect ARB or strut bush as it's worse when one side is unloaded in a corner. MOT is also due so it's going to the 'Man' who does all our MOTs.

He's into old VWs and knows his stuff and I really can't be bothered working on moderns - even 11 year old ones. Or maybe that's especially 11 year old ones...

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Managed to wrestle it all back together. MoT booked for next week, which it will hopefully pass now.....

However, I have sinned (again), so the A6 gets the winter off for a bit more fettling.

 

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9F5B16EA-1148-4FBF-8F8C-EC1F93A35F2F.jpeg

Yes..... it’s another A8. But the “junior” version this time. 2.8V6 (only 193hp) and 2wd.

Not perfect but only just over 100k miles (verifiably) and in fair shape bar some cosmetic blemishes.

Nice drive. Very mellow. Is actually deceptively brisk when asked for but lacks the brutal shove in the back of the old 4.2. Does mid 30s mpg too.

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The 2.8 is a good choice. Especially when it comes to repairs.

Concerning back problems.  I had (and still have) for many years problems with the neck and the lumbar areas. Sport is necessary, but my experience, stretching is essential for success.

Get well soon

Martin

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1 hour ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

 

I thought the n+1 rule only applied to bicycles :biggrin:

 

Oddly enough that was the comment from no2 son......  I think perhaps my “winter banger” plan got a bit out of hand :blink:

1 hour ago, Martin said:

The 2.8 is a good choice. Especially when it comes to repairs.

Seems like a good engine. Smooth and responsive. Can’t really hear it. I’m hoping repairs are not needed.

I have a longish history of neck problems, though that seems fixed for some years now. That was thanks to the chiropractor I think, at some considerable expense. Not so much history with lower back so hoping to avoid the chirp this time. It is getting better - so long as I don’t do anything stupid, like sit in a TT for 90 minutes :pinch:. I don’t quite know what it is about that car, but it really doesn’t fit me. Almost had to buy the A8 to get home without being crippled!  That was fine. Really comfortable. I think I like the “standard” seats better than the “sport” ones in my previous one, though the sport ones look more impressive.

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MoT pass gained this morning. Advisories of corroded fuel return pipe - and it is, plus CV joint gaiters on their last legs, which they are.

Emissions were no drama. Blew 0.7 first try..... The tester was amazed.  I didn’t tell him it’s because all emission control devices are removed or disabled!

Now SORNed in favour of the “new” behemoth. It’ll get some fettling over the winter, mainly rust treatment and cosmetics, but may do something about the turbo, the amount of play in the spindle...... makes me anxious.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Junior soot monster post...... the silver A4 Avant.... has been putting its abs light on intermittently. Computer said it’s the rear right wheel sensor. So I bought one. Whereupon the light went off for a couple of weeks :rolleyes:

Yesterday it came back on, and the computer still said it was the same sensor. So I changed it.

What a howling bitch of a job. :growl:

It’s held on by a single M6 cap-head bolt, through-drilled (so the salt spray has the best chance of doing its worst) and tapped into the vertical link. It’s right in the splash zone and the sensor tag is aluminium, so obviously the chances of it coming undone were always near zero.... I used my best subtlety and all the tricks I know. Still it snapped off. Even then the sensor was stuck fast, wedged in by corrosion. It was pretty much reduced to dust in the removal process...... Access is generally crap and I ended up having to completely dismantle the brakes and suspension to get the link off so as to be able to drill out the bolt and re-tap. To be fair, all the other bolts undid and came out, but I struggled in a couple of places where the OD of the crush tube is set slightly into the adjacent components for location and corrosion had made the location a bit to positive!

Then to recover about 1.2m of flying lead from a horrifically convoluted path though clips, grommets and clamps,  barely visible or reachable until undertrays are removed.....

The complexity of it all is just nuts, especially compared to the older A6, which does the same job, rather better on about 1/4 of the components.  Progress? :pinch:

Took me flippin hours..... light is now out and I hope it stays that way. If it turns out to be a random wiring problem (which isn’t uncommon on these) I shall not be amused!

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Definition of better depends very much on your viewpoint. 

I have a mate who is very much into his Landrovers. Had a very nice Defender, then a Discovery which he just traded in after the turbo balance pipe started to go. Fixing that £200 part is a £9000 body off job! His current motor is a 4 year old Range Rover. Electric absolutely everything which he thinks is fun but just daft and totallyunnecessary.

New it was £120,000. He got it for £40k minus the £12k trade in for the Disco. £20k depreciation a year. Crazy.

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Be thankful it doesn't eat ABS sensors the way Ford Ranger T6's do!!

I'm now onto the fourth sensor in four years, always front wheels. I cheat, the local garage (excellent chap) does them, he says he now keeps them in stock for me :laugh:

Afraid all the moderns go to a garage for me now, I used to do the work but I never seem to have the time now!

Phil

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The ABS light is still off 100 odd miles later...... my fingers remain crossed.

The engine light is on again though.  It seems the little bugger can tell it's EGR system is non-functional (and it's right, it got a new "gasket" with no hole recently) - though I'm not sure how it knows.  Must be some (too) clever calculation based on airflows going on 'cause there's nothing else.

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I understand it's possible to turn the EGR cycle right down (if I had the full version of VCDS, which I don't), which works in some cases and not others.  Beyond that it's a "remap" which can disable the clype function, but this is beyond the scope of the game.  Apparently drilling a small hole in the blanking gasket may also work, but means that a degree of EGR has been restored with attendant soot deposits.

As it stands, the light is on, but all it's doing is telling me the EGR isn't working - which I already know.  Problem comes at MoT time as you aren't allowed the light on any more (used to just be advisory).  Bottom line is that on these it's probably better not to bother with the blanking gasket, but just disconnect and plug the EGR valve vacuum line so it can be reconnected and the code cleared at MoT time.  Meanwhile the intake isn't being filled up with soot.....

Just watched a video of someone spraying Mr Muscle oven cleaner into the intake of a running VAG TDI :blink:  I'll not be doing that!

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