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Hi all ,

I finally cleared out my garage last weekend and it's good to spend some time back on the case .

A simple question please .

I am back on setting up my rear lower wishbone brackets ( yes , said that before , I know ! ) but because the back of the car has been up on a dolly for the last year I need a reference from which to set the ' LEVEL ' .

I am using an electronic ' Stabila ' level ( so handy !! ) so although the car is at an angle I just need a ' comparative ' system to check the brackets are where they need to be .

What I want t know is ; when a well set up car has a level put on the door sill how off level is it .

I could set the brackets parrellel to the sill but if they are usually at a slight angle that might not make sense .

On another subject I realised I was being a ' donkey ' with the MGF brake cables and I now realise they can run exactly as the Triumph ones did except with an added loop before meeting the caliper . Lovely , simple and straight forward routing apart from the need of a bearing to run against the chassis rail but that is working just beautifully now , the swap is so neat and less complicate than I had thought !!

Be very grateful for feed back on the level question , M .

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Edited by Spit131

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having now done a fair bit of looking into clutch choice I realise my sintered solid 7/14" Helix is going to be far too savage so I think I will have to go cerametalic as this does allow for a bit of slippage . Helix do sprung four paddles ( or pucks ) but not sprung six paddles . The six paddle gives more area but being unsprung means this again might be too unforgiving on its own . You can not use sprung plates in a multi plate clutch so my thinking therefor is to go twin solid cerametalic as using the twin plate will reduce the stress/heat on each plate and flywheel .

I have no issues with Helix but Tilton can supply everything not just the clutch so my sintered plate and cover is now listed on eBay and I have ordered a Tilton ( actually it's not theirs , its APS ) hydraulic release bearing mount for my TranX type 9 so I can then take the measurements for ordering the twin plate , cover and release bearing .

As I said Tilton can provide everything including the clutch master cylinder and they even have a range of release bearing piston sizes to choose from to make setting up height easier and a choice of colour coded pressure plate finger strengths to choose from . Seem to be a ery good outfit , they send you a form on which you have to put all the measurements and they they work out exactly what is needed .post-680-0-32954500-1433974612_thumb.jpg

Edited by Spit131

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Mis-fired posts removed - not sure what was going on there?  I experienced a bit of server weirdness earlier in the week but it didn't have that effect......

 

As to your original question - I don't know how level a sill would normally be and I think that you'd get a different answer from nearly everyone......

 

To get your brackets level relative to the main run of the chassis, the way I'd do it is to lay the level against the bottom of one of the main chassis rails on a flat section somewhere in the middle.  Note the angle at this point (if the level has a zero function, so much the better).  Treat this as your datum and match the reading when setting the position of the bracket.

 

I've had good service from Helix in the past - they made me a hybrid friction plate for Vitesse with Supra box.  Wasn't cheap but works well.

 

Nick

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Thank you Nick .

Yes the level has a zero function . Sounds like the chassis should be level then so I shall work on that basis .

Guy croft swears by Helix but they don't do release bearings , bearing mounts or master cylinders so just thought it made more sense to have one company balance everything together .

I would ideally have liked a twin plate sprung cerametalic but this is not possible .

Tilton don't even do sprung paddles as they say the spring mech can cause weakness in the disc .

I had no knowledge on the subject when Guy supplied the sintered set up but they are totally like a switch , either on or off , can burn out in minuits in traffic .

I realise one can't have it both ways so sacrifices have to be accepted . When used on the road , carefull route planning and possible pull overs till the traffic clears will be in order even with the twin cerametalic , but such is life .

I have yet to check that the 6 bolt arrangement is shared between Helix and Tilton as this is what my ultra light stepped fly wheel is set up for .

Edited by Spit131

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My return to the garage has been quite productive in the planning sense . Having thought I could no longer fit my alternator in the usual , and only , space ( supercharger on the other side ) due to the Spit suspension tower , I realised that if I reversed the mount/bracket positions it still just fits in very neatly between the tower and water pump hose with slight mods to the hose lay out ( small kink needed with a couple of 45degree Samco hoses instead of a straight one ) . Only trouble is that this position gives very little belt tightening movement so an alternative arrangement might be needed .

The crank shaft drives the cam belt then is spaced with a 60cm diameter (?) extension before the supercharger wheel . The intention is to put the driven wheel around this extension . The alternator pulley would then need to be slightly extended forwards and the water pump pulley recessed a touch nearer the block in order to line them all up .

I have mounted the alternator on an alloy alternator bracket I ordered with my starter motor from a specialist Fiat company in the States in the hope it crashes in useful and hopefully it will ! The mount will bolt with one bolt to the original alternator bracket thread . Luckily directly below this is of course the now redundent originalounting point low down on the block . This means all I need is a simple purpose made arm to go between the original lower mount point and the end of the new mount and the alternator will be left totally stable . Then just a tensioning issue but all better than a prop driven set up .

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Edited by Spit131

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I've had good service from Helix in the past - they made me a hybrid friction plate for Vitesse with Supra box.  Wasn't cheap but works well.

 

Nick

 

 

same here,helix made me a sprung 6 puck c/metallic friction plate.it is a bit of a faff in traffic but I just leave a large gap and use engagement as little as possible.

the cover is apparently from a saab turbo so they told me.

I thought most generic sizes used a common pcd for economy of manufacture?

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I hope you are right ! Or Helix it is ! My flywheel being for 71/4" limits the availability on OE stuff .

That's interesting though as I had not thought about a one off , I guess partly because of how costly these things are just off the shelf .

Guess I learned a lesson with one offs when Titan charged £1200.00 for my dry sump pump reversal work !

How much did they charge you for the sprung six puck ?

How many miles have you done on it to date ?

Are you also running a light weight fly wheel ?

The worry is that if the drive train is too small a diameter and light weight ( flywheel , clutch , alloy drive shaft etc ) with the RPM needed to move off and too savage a clutch anything apart from a race start will be a pain in the arse and also the pocket .

This the Helix solid sintered

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can't remember exactly but I think around 200/250 for the 6 puck alone.

 

only done around a 1000miles so far,it was a bit snatchy at first but it has settled down a bit now(either that or i'm adapting to it,don't think I could live with a solid one on the road) and I have a lightened stock gt6 f/wheel,god knows what mess it will make of that :unsure:

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My HPB mount turned up today .

Purchased from Competition Supplies , very helpful guy on the phone ; James .

However , this turned up in a sealed bag , who sealed it Competition Supplies or APS the manufacturer I don't know but it has clearly been fitted before . This really makes no difference but on principle they will be getting a call on Monday .

They do have a very good selection in their catalogue including a Tilton clutch aligning tool which comes in a few sizes including Ford 1"x23 spline ( assuming it is 30 pitch and not 60 ) .

I notice that some Triumphs require short nose and some long , out of interest is this four pot v six pot or more related to bellhousings ?

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I spoke with ' Tony ' the other day and he is now progressing well with my targa top ( after recovering from a hernia ) , he has changed his plan slightly but it looks very promising , hopefully be finnished in the next few weeks . A lot of work involved with many moulds and sections made in the process . I have asked him to keep everything so I can photo it all to put a post on here .

On the clutch front , I realised my Fiat 132 bell housing needs to be machined to accept the type 9 hydraulic release bearing mount so it is now at the machine shop . As the bell housing was not designed with such s large hole in its centre I am slightly concerned if the opening will weaken its structure . My thoughts are weather I can have the bell housing not just bolted ( 5 bolts ) to the adaptor plate but also tig welded ( aluminium to aluminium ) . The input bearing is not affected as the large hole will be present in both the adaptor plate and the bell housing . The only thing I am not sure about is the circle below the input shaft , I guess this is the end of a shaft , but does it need external access on servicing of the box or would it make no difference if the adaptor plate is bolted to the box and the bell housing then welded to the adaptor meaning no external access to this item . Any type 9 experienced members opinions welcomed .

The shaft end is the one below the input shaft in the photo of the box end with the masking tape wrapped around the shaft . Sorry this has not been well explained but hopefully on the photo evidence alone it should be fathomable . The black bell housing is a Ford Capri type and the poor picture of the inside of an oxidised bell housing is my Fiat 132 type ( will be refreshed at the engineers ) Thanks .

Also I finally had the master cylinder hole machined into the bracket Dave kindly made up for me in steel rather than the ally one that came with the car . I need to get this powder coated then this can be finally fitted .

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I called in at Tony's today and found him working on my top . The plans are still evolving but I think we are near finalisation . I actually do not want him to finish too soon as I need to earn him some more money yet . The third image shows some of the moulds he has made in the process . The idea is to complete almost the whole process before cutting the top .

My Fiat 132 bell housing was machined up for the Tilton HRB mount but I then found that the adaptor plate hole made for a Ford type 9 box nose was a tad tight so that had to then go to be opened up a tad . Once back I could then try out the set up only to find the bell housing also still needs a touch off around the bolt receiving ears ( marked with arrows in pencil ) so I think I need to buy a nice ' Fein ' tool to make this kind of fettling job easier .

The machine shop also made up an alloy bracket which will hold my alternator bracket level as it only has one bolt in it . Now I need to find a water pump v pulley to fit a Fiat 131 pump but with a slight rear off set from the pump face .

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Edited by Spit131

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To be fair to Burtons ( Ford suppliers East London ) I ordered these type 9 front nose seals yesterday and they are here by this morning .

Now I need to take some measurements for the Tilton 800 series HRB .

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Tony has finished my targa top . I shall pick it up this morning and get some decent picks up of it . Here are a couple taken last night in his work shop . The quality of work involved is very impressive . As you can see the romovable section slips in and is secured at the back with two push in ally pins that Tony made up.

The accuracy of the mouldings created is spot on . Only slight worry is does it fit in the boot ?

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Ok , here it is .

I have not checked if it fits in the boot as it is covered in things ATM .

Otherwise it is looking lovely . Thankfully Tony is not asking for its true cost which should have been considerable considering the work involved .

The quality of work is really top notch , it looks as though it is as originally supplied .

The question now is do I have it sprayed all white or leave the carbon cover strip as is ?

The car is still on a rear dolly hence the odd angle .

 

ADDITION ;

In order to check boot fittment and BJ it's going to be close !! I need to cut out the old boot hinge mounts with my crocodile saw , so first I need to whip out the tanks .

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Edited by Spit131

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Cut the vast majority of the hindge brackets off and it seems it is only 8mm too long .

Which means -------- IT WILL FIT !!

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Edited by Spit131

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Nothing that can't be sorted with a bit of fettling .

7mm off the carbon joint cover strip , 5mm off the front of the roof and an angle cut on the window rubber receiving edge where it rests on the wheel arch when the lid sits inside the boot and it now fits in beautifully . I just need to fit a few sticky pads in the relevant places to ensure no surfaces meet each other .

The jigsaw worked a treat except when I used a fine wood blade to cut the carbon because I was too lazy to dig out a metal blade and the teeth disappeared in seconds . It's best to place a piece of masking tape parallel along the base just touching one side of the blade a) to prevent the base scratching the surface you are cutting and B) you can then run the tapes edge along your cut line which is more accurate than the markings provided on the base plate as you have a longer edge to line up . ( Prob , the already known tip of the day )

So good to know I now have a working targa top .

Debra is however questioning where her luggage will go if the boot is full ( if she thinks I am having a trailer for my birthday she can think again !! )

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Debra is however questioning where her luggage will go if the boot is full ( if she thinks I am having a trailer for my birthday she can think again !! )

 

LOL, I have acquired a damaged Mk3 tub for just such a purpose. I'm practicing seam welding on the rear section and using it as a template for my rear suspension mods. Once I've finished messing with it the back half will become a trailer, not sure what I'll do with the firewall etc.

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What do you intend keeping in your trailer then James ?

 

Actually , it is surprising how much room is behind the seats , despite the roll bar and the fire extinguisher , now that I am not running a hydraulic handbrake system and once I remove the redundant nitrous bottle brackets there should be enough room not only for her ' walk in wardrobe ' but also my Speedos . M

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looking good Matt

 

I had the idea of a surry top for my mk2 spit before I even started putting in the 2L twin cam.

 

Last time I had a standard hardtop on mine, there was not much room between my rollcage and the hardtop.

 

and thats with out a roof lining 

 

 

am liking yours though, VERY nice M8

 

you might be glad to know, I am back on my spit!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

second  FULL body rebuild done on paying customers cars (alfa reomero and a vw beetle) to get the money to do mine  

 

 

the photo is MY GT6 bonnet compleated, made up off all new panels except the center panel.  ALL spot welded by yours truly

 

whens yours going to hit the road Matt

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Bonnet looking very good Pierro .

Glad to hear you are getting in loads of practise in before working on mine .

Keep us updated with progress .

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