Martin Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 looking for a suitable place to mount the brake booster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Good luck with that....... I'm still looking. There's a thread on here and CT about it with various suggestions - none of which I liked enough to try. Your um, alternative, heater arrangements may help by freeing up bulkhead space though? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 ready for filling the engine bay; waiting for some victim that helps to remove the bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 That's exciting! N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, Martin said: ready for filling the engine bay; waiting for some victim that helps to remove the bonnet. Martin, You have a "LoadLeveller" so that you can controllably tilt the engine gearbox combo. With that, it's not necessary (despite the manuals) to remove the bonnet to get that massive load in or out of the engine bay. You do need to be able to lift it high, though. Here's a picture sequence that shows how I do it. I lift the weight froma massive roof beam in my garage. Engine out sequence.mix Edited November 7, 2018 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 3 hours ago, Martin said: ready for filling the engine bay; waiting for some victim that helps to remove the bonnet. I normally go the victim route! Just a quick observation whilst you can get at it, I think I can see a piece of rag stuffed in around the clutch lever arm? As I suspect like me you have found that that hole is rather like a black hole that attracts dropped nuts and bolts into the bell housing. Last time I cut a square of old inner tube rubber put a split in it and dropped it over the lever arm so it covers the hole, it moves back and forwards with the arm and isn't stuck down, but just about keeps the hole covered so that when your working on the engine after installation and just happen to drop the rear manifold nut for example it doesn't drop down an unerringly find the hole! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 16 hours ago, Martin said: ready for filling the engine bay; waiting for some victim that helps to remove the bonnet. Allways an excellent moment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 cant push the radiator more backwards .... grinder ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 13/60 valance is different from Vitesse valance....... As you see! Had a similar problem on my car, which also has a 13/60 valance. 30 years ago. It got cut. Still waiting for me to fix the bracket though as the Vitesse bracket is different too - it doesn't have the step in it. You don’t have that problem though. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 I love it 33% success Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 7 minutes ago, Martin said: I love it 33% success Bet it was the 1st one that came out. Lulling you into a false sense of success H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Hum...... how very normal. I have three of these. One 100% fail, all snapped. One that has been through-drilled for bolts (yuck) and one with three very crusty studs still in it. I think I’m just going to weld nuts on those in the hope that the severe heat will free them off...... Good luck with the drilling....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 Tricky job that. I had three of these laying around for years. Managed to repair two of the three manifolds. Tried soaking with pentrating oil, welded on nuts on the threads, each time the stud snapped. Last resort was to drill through as close to the centre as I could. I found it impossible to come out the other side in the centre. I got as close as I dared to the thread, then used a tap. On a couple, the tap unscrewed the remains of the stud which was very satisfying. Took my eye off the ball momentarily on the last manifold and cocked one whole up. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 I drilled through and used a 3/8 UNC tap. This worked fine and my impression is that it engaged into the original thread. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 One man's cock-up is another's redrill and re-size the stud! J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 engine bay filled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Very good! I see you went with the engine driven fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Oh to have so much access to an engine bay. great step forward for the new year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 It runs, took a bit of coughing and spitting out of the carbs, some ignition adjustment then it fired up. managed the idle to around 2000 to run in the tappets. It builds up the oil pressure but only towards 2 bar and after appr 20 min it began to overheat so I shut down. Had to add a liter of water. Most hose clips pissing After letting it cool down for a while I tried to move it under own power. Shit the brake was blocked. The brake booster kept the pressure even after turning the engine down. Thus all brakes locked. Took some time to find out. Removed the hose to the manifold. Then I wanted to drive a bit around the corner for a basic testing of all functions. (there is a privat road for the school and holiday at present) Got to the Corner and the oil pressure dropped to Zero, so drove back the 250 meters and stopped the engine. Oil is 15 w 40 Running in oil from Penrite. So mixed emotions. Never had such a bad start of an engine. Start Vitesse.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Oh..... that's not ideal..... should be at least 4 Bar cold @ 2000 rpm..... No external leaks I suppose? Is it a mechanical gauge with capilliary or electric - do you believe it? Do you have the spin-on conversion for the oil filter? First check (easy) is the relief valve assembly. After that I might try removing the distributor and timing gear and turning the oil pump with an electric drill. I say this because I have read of people having problems with the oil pump where the drive shaft is not properly attached to the rotor and slips when under pressure, then gets worse - rather like what you describe..... Hope it is something easy.... and cheap! That brake servo sticking the brakes on problem is not unknown either. Can be the mounting angle (though yours looks ok to me?) or the piston sticking inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Easy to get the Girling servo rebuilt, had mine done and really good job. http://www.jlspares.com/ RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 I will start with the pressure relief valve, then check the driving cog, turn the pump with a drill, and then see. Yes I do have a spin on conversion with an oil cooler. @RR unfortunately its a cheapo reproduction. Works great in Spitfire and GT6 but here it seems to be shot. At the moment on business travel in Budapest, so has to wait maybe even to next week. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted May 3, 2019 Author Share Posted May 3, 2019 Update: checked oil pressure relief valve. According to the book it should have fitted length of 31.75 mm. I measured and shimmed it accordingly. Pressure after start at 60lbs at fast idle, so a happy Martin. Started to fiddle with carbs, …. . Checked the water temp, nicely in the middle, so no overheating, pressure still there, again a happy Martin, fiddled a bit with ignition , ….. Fiddled around for some minutes and had a quick look to the dashboard: green light again on , no pressure. I stopped the engine, took an old shaft of an oil pump, made a slot in it, removed dizzy (o.k. that took some 15 minutes) took my 14.4 Volt drill and immediately could produce pressure. I will next remove the spin on conversion / thermostat / oil cooler and install the normal oil filter. Lets see what happens then. As I ran the engine now two times with no pressure, it has to come out anyway for a check of the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 Cause for the low pressure found. I mounted the normal oil filter and hey, pressure cold and hot. I read in a TR Forum something bout the Mocal oistat. It has a flow direction. This made me think. I just mounted the oilstat it in the wrong direction. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. I did not read them as I was using oilstats several times in the past. Normally the "german" brand Racimex". This has no flow direction. As they looked like "clones" I just mounted it. However wrong direction. Lesson learned. Now healthy 75 cold and a bit below 50 idling hot. O.K. I ran the engine at idle with veeeery low pressure , but without any rattle. No risk no fun, I will not take the engine out. So now completing all the small remaining Things which take a lot of time. Perhaps having it on the road September???? Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 25 minutes ago, Martin said: a bit below 50 idling hot Sounds good. Mine gets about 20 idling hot, 15 very hot or 10 after 15 minutes lapping Castle Coombe........ so 50 sounds great!! Easy fix and a lesson..... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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