Martin Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Yes vertical link Rotoflex. You see nicely where the PO left the marks of the hacksaw. I milled it down to 74,5mm width. The narrow ones I measured where between 74,1 and 75,3mm. Ineresting that the thick washer is not shown in any of the parts catalogues. I have 4 left from dismantled vertical links. Thickness 3,22 ... 3,35 mm. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 put the front window (Bastuck) into the car with a (James Paddock) seal. There was a gap at the RH A pillar (complete length). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 I filled the gap wth a foam sponge cord. Yesterday evening I inserted the Chrome finisher. It was a sod. I needed THREE hours to get it into the rubber seal. With the feet on the bulkhead, knee pressing a cork block against the finisher and mm by mm opening the groove in the rubber seal with a screwdriver then pushing the finisher in. I was soaked with sweat. All my fingers are aching today. Getting old. No not getting, I am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Windscreens and windscreen seals....... We wasted some serious time with the Spitfire - that was crappy incorrect seals - you may remember. Never even tried to fit the finisher strips - he preferred it black. Have to trial-fit a windscreen in the GT6 as we've been messing (repairing) the screen surround. I bought another seal from COH Baines as that worked in the Spitfire. Old age..... not yet mate, but it's creeping up. Some days it's tapping you on the shoulder........ Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 The one thing that old age has taught me is never fit windscreens! Apart from the absolute pain and time, and the real risk of breaking a laminate, I have discovered that the £60 it costs to get a professional to do it not only saves me half a day, but also they make it look easy with all the right tools, and they also guarantee against leeks and will come back and fix, which as we know with Triumph screens is almost an odds on certainty. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Your experience with the "professionals" would seem to be more positive than some! I can't really comment as I've only used them for getting screens replaced on moderns and they've all been bonded. Until the Spitfire issues I've never had a problem fitting screens and I've done a reasonable number. I've even removed and refitted a laminate screen successfully (in a scrapyard!) though I did cut the old seal to get it out. Fitting the trim strips is a different story though........ That usually seems to involve development of special tools, exotic techniques, lots of cussing and sore fingers! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) Took the screen out, needed only 5 minutes. Measured the depth of the seat where the screen sits. It varies between 19 and 16 mm. Therefore it cannot sit properly, Top LH Corner 16mm, midle a pillar RH 19 mm. . Mounted the screen again. Before inserting the finisher strip I used a lot of sealant and then inserted the finisher with the recently invented knee technology. Edited October 20, 2017 by Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 The actual depth of the pressing varies...... or the flange is twisted? Guess if it looks ok and doesn't leak - no worries! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Flanges were o.k., I hope it will not leak. Can tell in 1? 2? years from now. Preparations for the rear end done. But this week on business trip and then 2 weeks holiday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 On wheels. Now what next? Doors or engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) Very nice, Martin! I would have put the engine in before mounting the bonnet, and long before the back seat! The manuals suggest removing the bonnet to remeove the engine, but it's such a faff getting the bonnet readjusted, I don't do it. Engine out, with gearbox attached, is possible if you can lift it above the level of the bulkhead sill, and have a 'Load Leveller' to tilt the assembly. Here's a series of pics showing how. The windcsreen is protected with a floor sheet that has a layer of bubble wrap beneath it. I broke the windscreen the first time I did this! You then roll the car back, and lower the engine/gearbox to the gound/dolly/stand. Edited January 2, 2018 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Interesting, I always remove the Bonnet. I cut the wiring loom just where it comes up the chassis horn so can quickly plug the loom in/out. I drop the front valance off undo the two bolts that go through the pivot eyes, and then just swing bonnet forward and off. NB this last part does require two people (likewise putting it back) so I always cunningly invite a friend to drop in for lunch at the appropriate time and "Oh as your here can you just give me a hand to!" I made the four link arms that the pivots fit to out of stainless, which now have a neat depression in them that tells me exactly where the pivot goes before tightening the through bolts. All I do is put a wide wedge of cloth over the bulkhead and down the sides, and a piece on top of the radiator before putting the bonnet on, I just put a bottle jack under the pivot eyes and just lift it until it hits the marks on the plates and tighten up. It always seems to drop into place exactly each time without needing adjustment. Still a bit of a pain but I find the extra real estate valuable when working around the car, and stops you scratching the bonnet as you carry things past/around it. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Looks superb. Jealous! I always remove the bonnet to remove/fit the engine as it is then so easy to pull the engine and 'box as one lump Remove the right bolts and the adjustment is not affected. But if the doors aren't fitted yet then the adjustment can't be complete anyway...... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Yes I will remove the bonnet to get the engine in, but before installing the engine I did some body alignment. The last time I had the Spitfire engine out, I did it with the bonnet still on the car. But the 6 cyl lump ...... Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 3 hours ago, Martin said: But the 6 cyl lump ...... Martin ........ is big........ and HEAVY! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 Not much time spent on the car. Carpets are in and the Recaro Seats that I got already some time ago from an Opel Corsa are mounted. After my Holidays I will start on the engine in mid July (hmmm thats the plan). Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 Come on, work faster! Looking very good. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Yes sir, working faster. checked the flywheel, that a mate refaced. 5/100mm run out should do. Try to prepare all the "little" things before engine is bored and crank reground. Next new ring gear on flywheel. Than balancing con rods, .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Very good, carry on. Not much getting done here just now! Like your block/stand bracket Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 checking the con rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayBeee1 Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 I know its a bit late in the project but I have a genuine Park Royal Estate if you need any advise or pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayBeee1 Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Here's a photo of mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 That's nice. I'd like a Vitesse estate. I know a man with a Park Royal one in bits. It's been in bits for years but I haven't managed to persuade him to part with it yet. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Whow an original Vitesse Estate. I did some small Progress with engine parts. Replaced a bush in a con rod. The others are within spec. Nost critical Topic to align it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 done piston pin.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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