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Well blimey - it's home! :woot:

 

No sun in SW England today...... pissing down sideways!

 

Hope it's better with you Iain! Daylight pics needed. I'd demand a BIG discount to wear that screen strip.....

 

Nick

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Hi Nick,

Sun strip removed so I can see out of the window.

 

Been working on the car so not taken any pictures yet.

 

Presently reviewing all the Emerald K3 manuals and info I downloaded off the net a few years ago. (if anybody has any maps?).

 

I do need to post some pictures of the front brakes as they are a major upgrade over the GT6 ones, nearly went thru the windshield first time I touched the brakes!

 

I have two cars now and a total of four seats, and am spending all my time working on them. We are a family of three and love the wife for putting up with the money I put into the cars with no chance of return.

 

not too happy at the moment.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

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Got maps, but MS ones and for fairly standard engines (can't remember what your engine spec is). Could also suggest some AFR target tables which might be some use if you have wideband and autotune capability?

 

Couple of hours with a decent RR operator would sort the full throttle/high rpm fuel mapping and timing. Part throttle/normal driving is best done on the road IMO.

 

Nick

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Nick, I have wideband fitted but need to check that its calibrated correctly; easy to do if I can get under the car.

 

 

The car Is setup with Alpha-N. As such, the butterflies need to open smoothly. I have modified the cable and set the span correctly now. The pedal pressure is still not correct as strong springs have been fitted that only make the pedal pressure excessive. Will sort this out in the morning at work. I have a map sensor and will plumb this in as I would like to get away with all the problems that I feel Alpha-N can cause on a road car. MAP worked with a tr5 cam & mechanical injection, so why not?

 

My GT6 drives to and from work in 4th with never a sound of pinking and pulls from 400 RPM without a struggle so I will be looking at the Spits ignition map and changing it to a basic GT6 dizzy curve. I will also check that Zero degrees is zero for the CPU.

 

I have purchased an engine starter pack so I will not have to get three people to attempt to push me down a hill as the car would not start and the battery became flat! The three people could not believe how difficult it was to push the car. The rear brakes that are binding like the hand brake is on will need adjusting tomorrow if I can get under the car.

 

If while under the car I find out the handbrake cable is the cause of the problem I will be more p***ed off as it will not be a simple adjustment of the wheel cylinder, but would explain why I have minimal handbrake movement.

 

Other issues, a later date.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

 

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Handbrake cables tightened for the MoT then not backed off after?

 

Which wideband? What running problems do you have? Engine spec would be helpful.

 

I favour MAP based load sensing for road going cars unless the cam/induction gives a very poor vacuum signal. Others differ on this.

 

I also use the stock distributor curve as my starting point for ignition maps. I find that the top line (full throttle) rarely gets changed much. Most of the changes made are to the part throttle regions especially low down the rpm range, where you can usually get more advance in and pick up some torque/economy as a result.

 

Nick

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“Handbrake cables tightened for the MoT then not backed off after?â€

 

I hope not! Will find out tomorrow if I can find a garage to look at it as have driven the car for a couple of days now and its still smoking and getting hot.

 

“Which wideband? What running problems do you have? Engine spec would be helpful.â€

 

The sensor is an Innovate LC1.

 

The engine spec is:

2.5PI CP engine

The best guess for cam is TR5 CP 65/25

TR5 CP inlet manifolds with prestige linkages

3.2.1.Manifold

Unleaded head with some unknown work and metal removal.

3.27 Diff

 

 

“I favour MAP based load sensing for road going cars unless the cam/induction gives a very poor vacuum signal. Others differ on this.â€

 

I have not run with a MAP sensor fitted but my engine vacuum can be no worse than when it was mechanical PI..

 

“I also use the stock distributor curve as my starting point for ignition maps. I find that the top line (full throttle) rarely gets changed much. Most of the changes made are to the part throttle regions especially low down the rpm range, where you can usually get more advance in and pick up some torque/economy as a result.

 

Nick “

 

KD has never touched the maps and I have today installed the last map I used in 2010/11 in case something was changed. With the freer throttle and pedal it feels much better. I still have to pump the pedal when starting to get the engine to catch… GT6 starts on the button…

 

Cheers,

Iain.

 

 

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That engine should work for MAP sensor. As you say, the original PI is a MAP-sensed system. Note that if you do swap methods you'll be starting from scratch on the tuning front as the maps will look very different.

 

LC1 works well for me. As well as the free-air calibration, you might want to check that you get the same reading via the LC1 controller direct and the ECU - in effect that the range/span of LC1 out and ECU in match. Not sure how the Emerald handles this, but I know it is possible to cock it up with MS! This produces very confusing results with autotune!

 

As regards starting / cold start: Again, I don't know the Emerald ECU, but the MS has separate settings for the following

- Priming pulse width (amount of fuel injected when ignition switched on, before it even cranks)

- Cranking pulse width (also variable with coolant temperature to serve as choke). If this is wrong it'll be hard to start - too much is as bad or worse than too little as FI can flood very quickly. On MS, holding the throttle over 70% open turns off the injectors while cranking and acts as flood-clear.

- Warm up factors - basically a % extra you set based on coolant temperature to add fuel while the engine is cold.

 

When you say "smoking and getting hot" presumably you mean the back brakes? Surprised you have this bad an issue so soon after an MoT as they should be checking for brake drag as well as braking effort. You mentioned the brakes are modified - do you know if it has a residual pressure valve fitted?

 

Good luck

 

Nick

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While off to garage to look at the smoking rear brakes, A rear wheel tried to fall off and stop our life's? Shortly after, more money spent on rear brakes as cable and system setup by a f***ing monkey and broke. Garage has temporary fixed rear end but advised that a pro needed to sort out the third world fix by Mr Karl!!!!! post-871-0-85942300-1387840274_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-85942300-1387840274_thumb.jpg

Edited by spitfire6

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A nice man at a newly found garage, discovered that the jury rigged hand brake cable tension changed with the rear wheels position. More money now to be spent sorting this out!!

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Iain,

Classic hand brake adjustment error - I've done it myself - it has been done with the car on stands or a jack, with the wheel dangling in maximum droop. This loosens the cable, so that when on its wheels again it is too tight.

 

Get the car up, with axle stands under the rear uprights, so that the suspension is compressed. This is a less stable position than with stand under the chassis, so do not go under the car! You don't need to. Take the wheels off, and adjust the cable in the normal way. Wheels back on and on the ground - the cable remains correctly adjusted.

 

A modern garage would not know this.

But you would think that a classic owner would know to do his bloody wheel nuts up tight! Now who's a monkey?

John

John

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Nick,

The engine is running not too bad now.

 

Too many other issues popping up. Not fun when wondering what's next to try to kill or take money from you.

 

KD has offered to fix the doors that do not shut properly or lock. He had the car for over 700 days and still failed.

So, Karl, as you will not answer your phone, I will not be taking up your offer of driving to Coventry for you to waste our time.

 

Any how. Tanya (My wife), is not happy.

Happy Seanson greetings all

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But you would think that a classic owner would know to do his bloody wheel nuts up tight! Now who's a monkey?

 

JohnD, I hope you are not saying its my fault? The rear studs are m12 1.5mm, think I should not need to check them every time I get in the car?

If I did, I would have found them loose. The AA tightened to 110 NM. KD said 50 FTLBS.

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Iain,

You said that a modern garage mechanic that didn't happen to know a detail of the maintenance of a car whose design is fifty years old was a monkey.

 

But you, the owner and driver, responsible for the vehicle, didn't know that the wheels were loose. Yes, It is your fault. The stud size is irrelevant.

John

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I take the view that a car recently returned from professional (?!) care should have the wheel nuts done up tight enough to stay on. On the whole, I find that whenever any of my cars have had professional care involving wheel nuts (usually tyre fitters), my problem is that I can't get the buggers undone with anything less than my longest breaker bar. That said, I do check them - if only make sure that I will be able to get them undone at the roadside if I need to.

 

As regards handbrake adjustments, there are a number of potential issues here.

The first is that even the standard Triumph arrangement suffers tension variations with ride height and the cable tension really needs to be set with the car at running height. This isn't especially easy to do right, but a Triumph specialist should know how.

The second is that if the car has been modified to rotoflex rear end using a Spitfire chassis, the handbrake guides and cable run are all wrong and the tension changes become much worse. Not sure what rear end your Spit now has or what it started with?

 

Earlier engine running issues might simply have been old fuel - it really goes off quite quick these days. 700 days is more than long enough and a couple of gallons of stale stuff will spoil what is put in on top of it enough to cause rough running. Keep using and topping up and it'll sort itself....

 

(very) Many years ago, when I worked for Triumph specialist in London (long gone), he was always totally paranoid about freshly restored cars and would always drive them around himself for at least a week before letting it go so we could find and iron out as many of the inevitable bugs as possible.

 

Dunno what KDs brief was but 700 days should be enough to grow a new car from seed.....

 

Nick

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I am going to mark the wheel nuts with a marker pen so I can see if the wheel nuts have moved every time I embark on a journey. Size of stud is relevant as the required torque is different.

 

I should not have criticised anybody or called them names; that's plain wrong.

 

Here are some pictures of the car and the anti-dive mod.

 

post-871-0-51772100-1387901905_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-50558900-1387901911_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-15981600-1387901916_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-83336000-1387901920_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-12053600-1387901926_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-02078600-1387901931_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-20808500-1387901935_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-72229300-1387901940_thumb.jpgpost-871-0-77685400-1387901947_thumb.jpg

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So effectively a rotoflex rear end. If still running the Spitfire handbrake cable guides you will get massive cable tension changes as the suspension moves. Not a completely impossible situation - you have to set the cables fairly slack at normal ride height with one occupant so that the handbrake remains off as you go over bumps and so you can carry a passenger/some stuff in the boot without the handbrake coming on. You will also have to be prepared to tighten it up to pass an MoT or slacken off further when going on a trip well loaded up. Ran my Vitesse like this for several years but it did irritate. Have a modified arrangement with additional brackets and cable sleeves on the rear cable now, which is better, but not a good as I'd like.

 

Those are big brakes on the front.......

 

Nick

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Hi Nick,

Now I'm understanding.

As was; the rear brakes got very, very hot. Handbrake travel was minimal. Foot brake was excellent.

 

After the handbrake stopped working. (Yes, you know who, My fault for not checking that the clevis pin was correctly secured by the unreliable spilt pin on the nearside rear wheel. I am looking at buying a mirror on a stick like the bomb disposable people use that I can be sure everything is secure. Spilt pins!!! the most unbreakable thing ever, not ! Even when installed correctly; they just fall out!!! Any how, wrists slapped!

 

The rear brakes have been adjusted up about twenty turns each side and the cable that I stupidly didn't check has been adjusted correctly this time.

 

The front brakes were fitted by GT. The car does stop good with the tyres and now the year brakes have been adjusted correctly, feels very good.

 

I am interested in what can be done with the handbrake cable system. I did have swing spring and has been converted to CV.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

PS. Wrists still smarting.

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Very nice, Iain!

 

A question and a suggestion:

1/ Carbon fibre rocker cover and Pi plenum tube?! Wow, One-off or where available?

2/ Remake the bracket that holds your remote oil filters. It fouls the No.3 plug lead, and looks as if you won't be able to get a plug socket onto it without removing the bracket.

Oh, and

3/ What is the purpose behind two enormous oil filters?

 

John

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Cheers John,

The Carbon filter effect is a plastic sheet (Film) that has been vacuumed (sucked) on to the metal with heat applied. I think!. Also seen it with chrome on wishbones. looked like chromed wishbones at a fraction of the cost. KD had the work done.

 

The bracket problem will be sort of sorted by changing the plugs to BP6ET's that should only need checking once a year. I might have a machinist from work have a butchers.

 

One filter is a conventional filter. The other filter is a bypass one with about 5 micron (might be smaller) filtration. my oil is highly filtered but flow is not compromised as the bypass filter is as the name suggests.

 

I do need to find out what the fittings are so I can add an inline NR valve.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

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No need, Iain.

The filters are mounted on a pressing, but the bracket that holds that looks to be just folded, and it's bolted to the pressing

Can't see the end of the bracket that is bolted to the block, but if it's like the top, you could fold it in a vice.

Set the filters lower, too.

 

And, if you hadn't put it on the bulkhead, a good place for the coil pack.

 

BUT, not a good idea to bind the HT leads together like that. Could induce miss timed sparks in adjacent lead. Better left free, of spaced apart with a suitbale lead holder - holds the about a centimeter apart, centre to centre.

EG http://www.amazon.co.uk/2x-Ignition-Holder-Seperators-Spacers/dp/B00DIH03V8

 

JOhn

Edited by JohnD

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