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Megasquirt 2 On Triumph Tr6 With 6 Throttle Bodies

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I found it not necessary to have a second idle setup at the rear but the plug

there is a nice spot to work on the cold start idle air valve feed.

 

You could drive the plug out, make a M16x1,5 thread instead and fit

a banyo bolt from oil cooler. It provides 1/2" tube connection, perfect

size for the cold start air supply.

 

 

I did already drill the plug out and put a tube in place.

A rubber hose connects to a T-piece, that allows to connect:

1) the hose for the servo

2) a hose that leads to another T-piece,

that has one small diameter exit for the fuel pressure regulator and another barb connection for the cold start idle air feed.

 

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I connected my injectors alternately 136 and 245 to give the most even pull on the fuel rail.  Two pulses per cycle.

 

You are welcome to a copy of one of my configs, but may not be possible to load directly dependent on firmware/version.  It is not a bad thing to go through the basic settings manually in any case as it seems that no two cars ever have all the same parameters........  Do you have Tuner Studio?

 

We await the video  :D

 

Nick

 

@ Nick and Andreas,

 

yes it would be nice if you could provide me with your config or msq.

I do have tuner studio and Megalog viewer. I have used TS to set up ignition already but I haven't use Megalogviewer yet.

And I do possibly have a different firmware than you guys

 

Video is promised!

 

Cheers

Patrick

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Some pictures showing the Induction of the EFI-conversion.

  • MAT sensor close to the K&N air filter, in order to reduce impact of engine heat
  • pick up for MAP sensor at cylinder 5
  • overhead throttle linkage- this is quite tricky on an EFI as one has to make sure that it won't collide with fuel-rail, fuel-return or injector wires
  • the white barbed T-piece waits ftp be connected to the idle-control valve, which I haven't found  a decent, un-invasive place yet

Next step will be to flash the ECU with a map, and start the engine :)

 

Happy New Year

Patrick

 

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January was very busy, had no time to play with the Triumphs

I'm currently on a short vacation and intend to launch the engine on my return.

 

The only thing I'm still concerned and that I've problems to understand is EGO Control and Auto Tune actions:

 

My understanding is, that auto tune activities should be disabled at the beginning, until the VE table is roughly 90% right (--> to be controlled manually via data logging)

 

1) Does that mean that I have to disable also EGO control, by means of setting Control Authority to 0% ?

Then later I may only set it to 15%?

 

2) What is actually the concept of Auto Tuning? How does EGO Control and the "Auto Tune" function in "Tune Analyze Live - Tune for you" mode work together? This is really badly explained in the Tuner Studio manual.

 

3) I've read to avoid EGO control at idle, as it is easier to control idle without that feature. That's why I intend to set it only active above 1200rpm.

 

4) What Algo are you using? Simple or PID? If PID, are your values close to my P, I, D values, that I intend to use.

 

Thanks

Patrick

 

 

post-769-0-74523100-1454692629_thumb.jpg

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Autotune can not work when misfire occurs and also bigger steps

required are not good for autotune. It makes the mapping coarse.

That is the reason to do some quick coarse setup first by hand with a second person.


It is quickly done to establish the values by hand during an experienced driver

is driving and the co driver is changing the values. Takes 15 minutes, not more.

 

When you do that by hand it might be helpfull to set the authority to 0% but

some like to watch the correction instead and change the values until the correction

goes back to 0. That is the way I prefer.

 

Anyway, the AFR is the value that must be kept into required limits either with

watching the AFR direct or indirect by watching the correction.

 

Just open a big gauge on the screen of one of the two values you prefer that you

can see that while you change the VE values.

 

I like to use the follow mode and have the fingers on Q and W to change the values.

Goes pretty quick when you feel comfortable with it.

 

I have the AFR target values in the table that vary and I do not have to remember what

I want at that working point of the engine. So if I rely on the correction I only have to add

or remove values to have the correction going up and down to meet zero.

 

Autotune looks for the VE value at that working point and also at the AFR target you gave.

If the value is not correct it is changed until the AFR target is achieved. EGO control

opposite to that is for normal driving, it does not change VE values permanently.

Autotune is changing the values in the VE table permanently that EGO control has to do

less or nothing in future. I took the auto corrected table from time to time and made it

smoother by hand.

When autotune is at work i would set the authority of ego correction to zero that

they both do not interfear.

 

Set PID pretty low that the correction does not jump, that is bad.

I would start with simple and 1 step every 72 cycles.

 

Good luck!

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Thanks a lot Andreas,

 

I understand now, how to improve the VE Table easily, with the combination of the correction gauge and the  q & w keys.

Seems to be very efficient, provided one has a co-driver to help.

 

Will come back with a video, hopefully.

 

Patrick

 

 

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Hi,

 

ended up to crank the engine finally this weekend and it did start immediately.

But it ran extremely rich, so that the garage was transformed into a an unpleasant place, within seconds

 

 

MAP at idle is 77% which is much too high of course. I reduced the value of VE at that point and it increased immediately rpms...

I hope I can further reduce the average MAP value at idle by reducing VE and closing the idle valve

 

Then there are the usual suspects of the pulsing MAP and TPS signal, that I have to look after.

 

I haven't synchronized the manifolds yet as well.

 

Here's a graph from the logged data, prior VE reduction.

 

post-769-0-15808800-1457388712_thumb.jpg

 

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Its normal that MAP is high when mixture is not perfect.

also MAP drops with more ignition advance.

No need to worry.

 

The MAP smoothing factor can be reduced to 30 - 40

to get that signal a bit smoother

 

Anyway: Good progress, congratulations!

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Hi,

 my TPS went to rats poo yesterday. 

erratic idle. TPS signal stable with engine off.

The range is 150 to 730 units. Span around 580 units Full-scale @ 5Volts is 1023. Engine running & I can see signal changing between 90 & 170 cruising @ light throttle.

New TPS fitted of a different design. Idles like a bag of kak. Was difficult to set the range as full span changed at the top-end every calibration run.

Original refitted and rotated slightly on the elongated slot. A nice repeatable range of 540 to 1005. Ripple on idle a few points. Only.

The car ran but not right. Downloaded original map; recalibrated span, idle control & fuel cutoff. Much better. Much much better!?

Filled up with fuel & calculated 15MPG. Kak.

Cheers,

Iain.

PS. car burbles, pops & cracks on overrun now. Too lean? It's staying as I will see if the economy has increased on next refill.

 

 

 

 

Edited by spitfire6

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The joys of Alpha N load sensing........ I prefer manifold pressure.....

Do you not have a wideband O2 sensor?

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Hi,

 I would love MAP. Alas, I would need to drill the ITB's to fit as OEM ports are blocked by fuel rail. Air bleed is used for PCV mk2. MK1 drunk oil.

I had the LC1. Sensor failed. 4.2 sensor

I had the LC2. Sensor failed. 4.2 sensor

I have the AMEX??  AEM.  Sensor failed. Behaves like an NB sensor. 4.9 sensor. I have a new Chinese £25 4.9 to fit.

Lambda sensors are like TPS's on my car. Consumables.

Cheers,

Iain.

Edited by spitfire6
AEM

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Hi,

 Have just foreseen a problem:

Noticed when I refitted the new TPS that the throttle arc was limited by a jubilee clip on the brass ICV.

Thought nothing of it as I know on the original PI system; did not appear to go any faster from say 88% to WOT.

Even though the wiper is now on a clean track, my fuel will be richer & timing retarded?

I will have to remove the unintentional throttle stop, rotate the TPS to ensure that WOT keeps away from integer 1023 & recalibrate TPS.  Off on the 27th MG Pendle run tomorrow, so the popping can stay and will sort all out when I get thirty minutes during the run. Maybe not during the run if the engine seems to run OK.

The Lambda 4.2 sensors AKA Innovation, probably failed as they are Kak. The 4.9 I assume failed due to the MK1 PCV system drinking oil or inadvertently preheating the sensor prior to cold start?

Cheers,

Iain.

 

 

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