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What i've done to my Car this week!


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Due to time constraints etc, work on refitting my oil cooler has been put aside while I replace the 30R7 fuel hose with fuel injection hose in 30R12, which is resistant to modern ethanol based fuels, the car should no longer smell of fuel, as the new hose is lined and not permeable to the fuel.

I am also using ABA fuel hose clamps in 304 stainless steel, these are the bees knees, rolled up at the edges to prevent cutting into the hose, and so much nicer than the cheapo clamps sold everywhere.

I got them on-line from a BMW specialist on the east coast of the USA.

 

More later.

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Interestingly, getting hold of SAE30R9 or better is quite hard, especially in classic car circles. The "usual suspects" are all still trying to sell stocks of R7 or earlier as suitable for modern fuels. This is despite the fact that one purveyor admitted to me at the weekend that they are expecting legislation that will ban the sale of non-compliant hose and are concerned for their stocks (which means they must know their stocks are unsuitable)!! It was ever thus in the classic car world sell the tat to the ignorant punters - they don't know any better. And it's true. The guys I spoke to at the weekend didn't know a thing about it, though some opined; " so that's why I have a strange fuel smell in the car!".

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Yes, I've found the same thing about local motorfactors. Apparently the Gates rep is very evasive on the subject. US company and legislation exists there......

 

There is a guy sells R9 on ebay at reasonable cost. It's less flexible and needs bigger hoseclips.......

 

Nick

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OK, taking a step back, the above 30R14 I have not yet been able to find anywhere, but what I have in fact managed to get ahold of is 30R9, which is certainly better quality than my present 30R7.

 

 

Gates - Fuel Injection/MPI Hose

 

Part Number: 27095

Line: GAT

  • 1 Year Limited Warranty
  • UPC: 38244244720
  • 5/16" x 25' (180 PSI)

 

Detailed Description

 

Recommended for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to maximum concentrations allowed by the EPA) and 100% methanol or ethanol.

60% fluoroelastomer liner resists permeation and alcohol. Oil resistant tube combats heat. Polyester braid reinforcement increases strength. Oil resistant cover resists heat, ozone and abrasion. Meets SAE 30R9 requirements. Temperature Range: -29 degrees F (-34 degrees C) to 257 degrees F (135 degrees C). Intermittent Maximum Working Temperature: +302 degrees F (+150 degrees C).

Note: Intended for use with fuels where MTBE concentrations are no greater than 15% by volume.

 

Brand Information

 

Recommended as the premium choice for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines.

 

Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline.

 

I hope that is a bit clearer!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Decided that while I am working in the boot, and have the glass/nylon mesh fuel filters off, I will replace the plastic barbs as supplied with the filters with brass barbs. It turned out that the black plastic barbs and the filter body has a thread of 28 tpi, with a 1/8th inch barb. (now that is a stupidly unavailable thread size if ever I saw one!) Needless to say, the brass barb has a more normal NPT 27 tpi, and 1/8th inch barb. After bashing my head against the nearest brick wall for a few minutes, I used a tap to change the thread size in the body of the filter at each end to NPT 27 tpi at each end, so that I could use the brass barbs that I already have.

I also replaced the nylon filters and the rubber sealing rings in the filters, while they were out.

I have realised that I will have to remove the engine bay filter to do the same thing to the threads.

Also today, I replaced the top radiator hose, (made of Kevlar reinforced rubber), with a black silicone replacement from the TSSC.

I also replaced the heater valve to engine RH side water pipe, (Kunifer) with a couple of black silicone hoses, presently joined with a 2" steel pipe, soon to be replaced with a nice alloy made-for-purpose pipe from Pegasus Racing.

Finally, I will tomorrow be ordering a 45" long black silicone water hose to replace the rubber water hose that is running along the RH side of the engine.

 

That lot should take care of all the water and fuel hoses and joints for the next 15 years, or so...

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As the megajolt project is drawing really close, I needed to sort out the rev counter. I have decided to ditch the old mechanical rev counter, and has bought a electroninc one ages ago.

 

There is just a sligt rebuild regarding swapping the pointer/needle and dial from the old one to keep in style with the other gauges.

 

Problem is that the screw holding the dial is not in the same place, so new holes has to be made on the dial. And further the needle isn't exactly a straight swap, but you have to fiddle with the baseplate whereupon the needle is fixed.

 

Anyway - here is the two needles:

 

IMAG0452.jpg

 

IMAG0454.jpg

 

The brassplate on the left hast to be transferred to the needle on the right.

 

After a bit of drilling the old baseplate could be lifted of

 

IMAG0455.jpg

 

And then a bit of modification the new baseplate slips in place

 

IMAG0456.jpg

 

Unfortunately - at this pont I realised that last time I had used my superglue I had not put the lid properly on - so no glue. After rummaging the kids room I found some white woodglue. Had to do. If the pointer leaves the needle - at least I know why.

 

Result:

IMAG0459.jpg

 

Next was to put another two holes in the dial. Mad them at a 90 degrees to the old holes.

 

IMAG0460.jpg

 

Put a piece of ducttape with a black patch on the rear of the dial over the old hole, so light wouldn't give away the mod.

 

IMAG0462.jpg

 

The other hole was at the silverplate of the gear, so gave that one a patch too

 

IMAG0464.jpg

 

Finally I remoced the green lens that gave the lioght a green tint on the more modern cars

 

IMAG0466.jpg

 

Job done - later today testing will reveal what happens when it is fired up :sorcerer::woot:

 

Cheers

Nick

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It turned out that the black plastic barbs and the filter body has a thread of 28 tpi, with a 1/8th inch barb. (now that is a stupidly unavailable thread size if ever I saw one!) Needless to say, the brass barb has a more normal NPT 27 tpi, and 1/8th inch barb.

 

 

Isn't that the difference between NPT and BSP? So says my copy of Kempe's Engineers year book...

 

I guess normal is where you come from my Lord ... :)

 

Nigel

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I hope, I THINK, I've sorted my radiator clearance problem.

 

Problem was, I'd fitted a megajolt wheel to the front of the pulley. It fitted on the old engine, just, but there must be some subtle differences in the positions of the engine mounts that have eaten that up. The wheel was about 10mm thick and actually touched the boss that encloses the motor on my radiator fan. The old rad was on the way out, and you can only get, new, Indian copies that have several minor annoyances, and cost over £200, so I bought one for a Honda Civic, for £70! I hope it's not pay peanuts, get monkey problems, but the Honda rad is in alloy and half the weight of brass. But it is a tiny bit smaller, so that limits even further where you can put the fan, and it still fouled the wheel.

 

I used an alternative wheel, a thin steel one that bolts to the back of the pulley - and in the position dictated by the new rad, the fan STILL fouls the fan boss on the crank. Beginning to wish I'd specialised in GT6s instead of Vitesses, I turned down the fan boss that has no fan-purpose now and is just a spacer/washer for the pulley bolt. Took the thickness at the nose down to 7mm (even then, a mighty washer!) and then chamfered the front so that the top is no wider than the bolt head and left the rim at its OE width.

 

And it gives the required clearance! Slow process though, as I always measure twice, think three times and cut once! And I still need to get some new brackets TIGged to the sides of the Honda rad, and make up some hose to connect it to the engine. But progress, none the less.

JOhn

Edited by JohnD
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Ive actually got myself a dashboard...

 

GT6%25252520Dashboard-001.jpg

 

I just have to wire in the Techedge through the mire of past owner (and a little of my) butchery of the loom.

 

I have to say those speedhut gauges were looking more and more attractive during this part of the rebuild...

 

Nigel

Edited by Millstone10
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Isn't that the difference between NPT and BSP? So says my copy of Kempe's Engineers year book...

 

I guess normal is where you come from my Lord ... :)

 

Nigel

 

Good point, but I don't come from where I find myself!

 

Leon, somewhat left of centre, geographically speaking.

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NPT and BSP are two different standards for threaded pipes. NPT stands for National Pipe Tapered and is primarily utilized within the United States. BSP, or British Standard Pipe, can be found in many other countries. The difference between these two thread types can be seen in the number of threads per inch and the angle at which the threads themselves are cut.These sizes and pitches vary

depending on the size of the pipe. BSP pipes often includes more threads per inch (TPI) than NPT, but these are not standard rules. A pipe of one inch in diameter, threaded to NPT standards, includes 11.5 TPI, while BSP uses only 11. As the pipe becomes smaller, the TPI increases in both standards from 27 TPI in a pipe of 1/16" NPT pipe, to a TPI of 8 in pipes of 2 1/2" diameter or larger. Though NPT and BSP are common throughout the world, many cities and industries, such as fire fighting, define slightly different thread standards.The two standards are also further divided into whether the pipe threads are tapered or parallel. Parallel threads maintain the same outside diameter throughout, and thus do not form a tighter seal as one goes further down the thread. By contrast, taper threads create an increasingly tight seal as the pipe is screwed in further. Plumbers typically use tapered threads in applications relating to gas, while parallel threads are common with water lines. The British Standard Pipe has two types, BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) and BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel). These two types have the same angle, pitch and number of threads, but the BSPT will have a tapered thread while BSPP uses a parallel thread. National Pipe threads standards have two types: NPT (National Pipe Taper) and NPP (National Pipe Straight). NPT similarly differs from NPP through the usage of a tapered thread. More reference links:

www.relab.cn

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but why would Mr.Gasket Co, based in Ohio be using British Standard Pipe on their products, whereas National Pipe Thread is more common here and indeed on Triumph engines from the UK!

 

confused

 

Leon

 

Hi Leon

I am absolutely with you here. Lots of confusion about what is sold for Triumphs. But I am 90% sure that NPT was not used on Triumph cars of our era. I'm half expecting to be shouted down here but Mr Witor at least states 1/8BSP oil gallery plugs and BSP is certainly the go for grease nipples and the sump plug.

However when someone has at some stage bought say a oil adapter sold for Triumphs with a 1/8NPT thread and forced it in there, The correct BSP is not going to fit well any more. This has happened to my engine.

 

Your filter issue is bloody strange mix though!

 

Nigel

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Not quite what I've done to MY car — but on Monday I helped my friend start the Microsquirt install on his BMW 2002.

 

Ignition is first — we made the brackets for the LS2 coils, drilled a few holes and worked out where the microsquirt is going to be sited.

 

 

It's going to be lovely and neat — far nicer than my install.

 

Experience… hmmm…

Edited by James
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but why would Mr.Gasket Co, based in Ohio be using British Standard Pipe on their products, whereas National Pipe Thread is more common here and indeed on Triumph engines from the UK!

 

confused

 

Leon

Stay away, no run away from the Mr Gasket products, I haven't seen a proper product from em yet. :pirate:

Gaskets that don't aren't the correct size, crooked threads on bolts, plugged up engine breathers, thermostats that don't open, ..........

 

Never again :verymad:

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Mr Gasket and their product line(Accel ,Mallory) were sold to Prestolite Wire China also owner's of the Lucas and Leyland brand names. And all Mr Gasket's manufacturing was move to the land of the toy makers

In the US every product sold ( food, clothes, tools etc.) must have a country of origin label . So when something doesn't operate properly or fit correctly you can turn it upside down see Made In China and bin it.

1/8 1/4 and 3/8 BPT have one more thread per inch than NPT which makes no sense. Chinese manufacturers usually use metric threads no mater the application. When you include the AN/JIC and concave and convex beveled ends of different angles pipe and hose connection can become confusing. I have found threaded plugs in old British engines to be bolt thread size and pitch.

Just received a pair of progressive front coil springs for my Amazon wagon(kombi) so will be on that in the morning. I also am finishing up my long ignored Lambretta LD rebuild panels painted cylinder bored to oversize piston.

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I installed new progressive front springs on my Amazon. When you dismantle a 45 year old front suspension you open a can of worms. I replaced the lower control arm bushings also. Recently installed Koni dampeners and 1 inch ARB The inner a-arm pivots on a 14 inch x 5/8 bolt that passes through both bushings and the cross member.Also my friend's Lambretta LD originally from Stafford Rd Birmingham

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post-657-0-35067100-1336887176_thumb.jpg

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Nice Lambretta.

 

Today, I completed the fuel system renew on my car.

 

Oh and BTW, I had purchased another Mr.Gasket fuel filter as a spare for my car, and guess what, at some point during the ten years between buying the old identical looking filters, they have changed the threads again! Now, 24 TPI, I played with it for a while, cracked the housing and threw it in the bin, except for the filter element that I can reuse.

 

(yup, made and printed in China, now looking for alternatives)...

 

Anyhow, I went to the fuel station and bought two gallons of 110 Octane Ethanol Free Race Gas for starting the car for the first time this year. It fired up on the key, (good job battery tender, 13.9 volts all winter).

[that's two U.S. gallons at $7.99 each]

 

Checked it for leaks, found none, drove to town, stopped for less expensive two gallons of Ethanol Free 92 Octane, (that's equivalent to about 95 UK Octane), for $4.949 each gallon.

 

That's almost the same as 10% Ethanol Fuel Super at the normal fuel station.

 

Checked again for leaks, found none, drove another two miles to my workplace, found no leaks, and drove home, no leaks, but it was really hot here today, about 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Leon

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Nice Lambretta.

 

Today, I completed the fuel system renew on my car.

 

Oh and BTW, I had purchased another Mr.Gasket fuel filter as a spare for my car, and guess what, at some point during the ten years between buying the old identical looking filters, they have changed the threads again! Now, 24 TPI, I played with it for a while, cracked the housing and threw it in the bin, except for the filter element that I can reuse.

 

(yup, made and printed in China, now looking for alternatives)...

 

Anyhow, I went to the fuel station and bought two gallons of 110 Octane Ethanol Free Race Gas for starting the car for the first time this year. It fired up on the key, (good job battery tender, 13.9 volts all winter).

[that's two U.S. gallons at $7.99 each]

 

Checked it for leaks, found none, drove to town, stopped for less expensive two gallons of Ethanol Free 92 Octane, (that's equivalent to about 95 UK Octane), for $4.949 each gallon.

 

That's almost the same as 10% Ethanol Fuel Super at the normal fuel station.

 

Checked again for leaks, found none, drove another two miles to my workplace, found no leaks, and drove home, no leaks, but it was really hot here today, about 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Leon

 

Now I know Oregon winters are probably a bit colder than here — but my saloon fired up on 8 month old supermarket fuel after being laid up over the winter at the turn of the key :)

 

Might be over egging that Leon :)

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