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Great progress :-)

 

Be carefull with the lift - I have seen a the result of a spitfire front that were rammed into the ceiling.......

 

Clever thinking with the direction-indicator on the window-winder. I keep experimenting

 

Cheers

Nick

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Phew, fitting the 3 into 1 exhaust manifold was quite challenging :ermm:

First shortening the pipes that go into the 6-3, took 2 attempts as I was scared to cut to much of ....

Managed to fit the 3-1 with some persuasion and twisting, BUT it was to far down at the back :unsure:

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And impossible to get it higher up at the front .....

The only possible solution was to try to bend it, never did anything similar ....

So in the end we bend it to much as we were unable to fix it on the table the way I took my measures !

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So I had to return and have a second go at bending it back.

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Another try, fingers crossed, managed to line up the tubes, fitted and then twisted to the correct position, it fits, even doesn't hit the chassis and exactly the right height at the end   :yes:

Lets hope that its not under to much pressure from turning to the correct position.

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Need to fabricate the attachments for the exhaust and TIG-weld th Y part to the exhaust.

 

JC

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The Vitesse will not take part in the 10 CR …. :mellow:

 

Fitting the complete exhaust system took way too much time every modified part on this car !

TIG welding the y-piece to the exhaust was nearly impossible, both stainless steels just would not flow together. I finally had to seal the joint with exhaust paste :down:

In the end it fits more or less OK, hopefully it will not be too low.

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Yesterday the plan was to get the exhaust finished, get the brakes and clutch working and finishing the engine to be able to start the car on Saturday.

It turned out that one caliper leaked and after dismantling I noticed a seal which had failed.

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Then I noticed a Polybush which had deteriorated !!!! I’m pretty sure this one came of the bodged chassis from Germany.

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And I ran out of time to finish the engine. Car is still on the lift to do the brakes.

Parts might arrive early next week and less then a month to the start of the 10CR this is simply not realistic.

 

On the other hand I realized that I have to get the car precinspected before the MOT. We have a new law since 2016 and all the modifications have to be preinspected and validated.

This will take time and money ….. again.

 

And the engine need to be set up, best would be a rolling road.

 

JC

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Received the brake caliper seals and compared them with the one I fitted a few years ago.

They are different in size, the old one is 3,25 mm wide/thick and the new one (from a german supplier) is only 3,00 mm :ermm: 

 

Checked the piston which is nicely machined and which did not cause the failure of the first seal.

Everything back together on the car, brake fluid, push the brake pedal a few times ....   and brake fluid drips out of the caliper again :wallbash: 

 

Looks like the car is scared to come out of the garage after so many years :P 

 

JC

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Are they PB16 calipers?

If so, they 've been made with 2 different types of pistons/ piston-seals, hence the need to precise the required type, when ordering.

 

When it comes to Triumph brake hydraulics, I use to order at:

 

http://www.girling.de/index.html

Mr. Müller has been working for Girling DE before, he knows that stuff.

 

Or:

http://www.pastparts.co.uk/

 

or:

https://www.spitfirescheune.de/

 

 

Cheers,

Patrick

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I've always thought that the main piston seals, which are just a square-section ring, were the same between all of the type 16 calipers with the differences being in the dust seals.  16P, no spring ring but a bastard to fit, 16PB & M16 have the spring ring and are easy to fit.

 

It's absolutely vital that the groove the main seal sits in is clean and rust free.  The bottom of it is angled and has a little extra groove on the fluid side.  It is this angle and the extra groove that cause the simple square section to work as a pressure-activated seal, but if there is any debris in there it stops it sitting right and causes problems. I use a scriber or small watch-menders screwdriver to clean the groove out.

 

You can buy the calipers new for £120-ish a pair these days, which means it's hardly worth overhauling them.

 

Nick

 

Forgot to ask before - which car for the 10CR?  Spit or Guy's 13/60?

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I had also thought this but a bit of digging reveals as always some varients.

 

I actually do rebuild the calipers as then I can buy the Stainless Steel pistons, which the new or recon ones don't have. And as the biggest culprit for failure always seems to be corrosion especially if not driven frequently it seemed a good choice to me.

 

However piston sizes.

 

Vitesse up to HC53394 & GT6 Mk1 GT6 MK2 up to KC5601977

 

Used 307976/307977 P Calipers with piston  510792 with 1.5mm groove

 

Vitesse from HC53394 

 

Used 307976/307977 P Calipers with piston 157685 with 5mm groove (note this is still the same P caliper which implies pistons interchangeable) 

 

GT6 from KC56078

 

Can/did use either 307976/307977 P Calipers or 311851/311852 PB Calipers  both of these use piston 157685

 

Late GT6 Mk3 and anything else so fitted (like my Vitesse by me)

 

PB Metric Caliper 159026/159027  use piston 157685.

 

Rimmers have a note that implies that the early 510792 piston with 1.5mm groove is 54mm diameter whereas the 157685 piston with 5mm groove is 57mm diameter.

Which is confusing given that on the Vitesse the same caliper 307976/7 is shown using both of these pistons, unless it implies that with the correct seals that the pistons are interchangeable.

 

Alan 

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Sorry for confusing, - Nick is right!

It's the dust seals, that came actually  in 2 versions

I wasn't aware of Alan's findings though..

 

However the all new calipers available these days, are said to be of low quality - at least the  smaller type 14 calipers , according to Spitfirescheune

I intended to buy them as well, when I switched to DOT5, but the dealer had just removed them from the list and is only offering refurbished calipers now.

 

I refurbished them myself, no leaks since and nice hard pedal feel.

 

Patrick

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I have the piston with 1,5 mm groove and the dustseals without the springs.

The groove for the seal in the caliper is rustfree AND clean as you don't play around with brakes.

 

Its only one caliper which causes trouble, which makes me think that I have the correct parts combination. Fitting is fairly easy too.

 

@ Nick : we take Guy's Herald Estate which was our backup car from the beginning

 

@ Alan : Thank you for confusing us all :P 

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I bought a new pair of 16PBs for the Spit as we didn't have any to rebuild/exchange.  Fine so far - though hardly a long-term test yet.

 

Otherwise I have mainly dealt with 16Ps (I hate the dust covers) but I can confirm that it's possible to use the main seals from a PB kit in a P as I have done this with complete success.  I doubt that the P/PB/M have a different basic piston diameter - but I have no hard data.

 

Nick

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Brakes are finally sorted, no leaks and good pressure.

Clutch hydraulics were a 10 min job :yes:

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I also figured out how to route the heater hoses, needed two T-pieces to replicate the original design with the saloon inlet manifold.

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I really like this view !

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Things to do while the car in on the lift are changing the rear lower suspension bushes and loosening the exhaust to try to center it better between chassis outrigger and spare wheel well.

 

JC

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Looking good JC.  Sorry not to see it on the 10CR.

 

Good luck with the heater valve - I got fed up with those crappy repro Smiths ones splitting their diaphragms.

 

P1160520s.jpg

 

P1160521s.jpg

 

I've got fewer hoses to worry about though.

 

Nick

 

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Some more work on the Vitesse after the successfull 10CR.

Fitted both sets and the seatbelts

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A special request from Alan, carb spacer to help them stay cool :yes:

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Made a mess while getting oil up to pressure with the hand drill

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AND tried to start the engine .... which was net yet successfull. Will fetch NEW Bosch sparkplugs tomorrow and try again.

Timing is definitely right now and we have fuel in the carbs.

One thing we noticed is that the high torque starter motor seems to turn over way slower then a standard one !?

Build_up_20171017_1_forum.jpg.cbf011a72447d80b2699bc86946ab72b.jpg

JC

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Check the cables and earths straps are good - jump leads can be helpful for that.  My ND reduction gear starter (ancient, ex scrapped Toyota) spins the engine very quickly.

Nick

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You won't regret the carb spacer, sorry about the mess, I always use a portable drill to pump the oil as its more controllable than a mains one, I also put an O ring around the shaft so that its just on the dist pedestal and put a lump of rag around the shaft into the pedestal to prevent an overflow.

That really is looking nice though!

Alan 

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New day, new spark plugs ..... and another checkover revealed that the timing was 180 degrees out .......

Then the car started on the first turn of the key :banana:

While trying out another dizzy rotor yesterday we killed the dizzy cab as the rotor was to long! Car only running on 4 cylinder and fuelpump pisses fuel everywhere.

All screws torqued up to the maximum and new dizzy cab got this :

Impossible to get the idle down as the butterflys don't close enough, but that should be ease to sort.

And the CO level is very low, max I had was 1,5 % with the jets about 2mm down.

Beside all that the engine REALLY wants to rew  :cool:

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