Nick B. Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Great progress :-) Be carefull with the lift - I have seen a the result of a spitfire front that were rammed into the ceiling....... Clever thinking with the direction-indicator on the window-winder. I keep experimenting Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Phew, fitting the 3 into 1 exhaust manifold was quite challenging First shortening the pipes that go into the 6-3, took 2 attempts as I was scared to cut to much of .... Managed to fit the 3-1 with some persuasion and twisting, BUT it was to far down at the back And impossible to get it higher up at the front ..... The only possible solution was to try to bend it, never did anything similar .... So in the end we bend it to much as we were unable to fix it on the table the way I took my measures ! So I had to return and have a second go at bending it back. Another try, fingers crossed, managed to line up the tubes, fitted and then twisted to the correct position, it fits, even doesn't hit the chassis and exactly the right height at the end Lets hope that its not under to much pressure from turning to the correct position. Need to fabricate the attachments for the exhaust and TIG-weld th Y part to the exhaust. JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Wow..... looking forward to hearing that! Fitting is a challenge for sure. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 The Vitesse will not take part in the 10 CR …. Fitting the complete exhaust system took way too much time every modified part on this car ! TIG welding the y-piece to the exhaust was nearly impossible, both stainless steels just would not flow together. I finally had to seal the joint with exhaust paste In the end it fits more or less OK, hopefully it will not be too low. Yesterday the plan was to get the exhaust finished, get the brakes and clutch working and finishing the engine to be able to start the car on Saturday. It turned out that one caliper leaked and after dismantling I noticed a seal which had failed. Then I noticed a Polybush which had deteriorated !!!! I’m pretty sure this one came of the bodged chassis from Germany. And I ran out of time to finish the engine. Car is still on the lift to do the brakes. Parts might arrive early next week and less then a month to the start of the 10CR this is simply not realistic. On the other hand I realized that I have to get the car precinspected before the MOT. We have a new law since 2016 and all the modifications have to be preinspected and validated. This will take time and money ….. again. And the engine need to be set up, best would be a rolling road. JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 The Vitesse will not take part in the 10 CR …. JC Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 Received the brake caliper seals and compared them with the one I fitted a few years ago. They are different in size, the old one is 3,25 mm wide/thick and the new one (from a german supplier) is only 3,00 mm Checked the piston which is nicely machined and which did not cause the failure of the first seal. Everything back together on the car, brake fluid, push the brake pedal a few times .... and brake fluid drips out of the caliper again Looks like the car is scared to come out of the garage after so many years JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roulli Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Are they PB16 calipers? If so, they 've been made with 2 different types of pistons/ piston-seals, hence the need to precise the required type, when ordering. When it comes to Triumph brake hydraulics, I use to order at: http://www.girling.de/index.html Mr. Müller has been working for Girling DE before, he knows that stuff. Or: http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ or: https://www.spitfirescheune.de/ Cheers, Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 I've always thought that the main piston seals, which are just a square-section ring, were the same between all of the type 16 calipers with the differences being in the dust seals. 16P, no spring ring but a bastard to fit, 16PB & M16 have the spring ring and are easy to fit. It's absolutely vital that the groove the main seal sits in is clean and rust free. The bottom of it is angled and has a little extra groove on the fluid side. It is this angle and the extra groove that cause the simple square section to work as a pressure-activated seal, but if there is any debris in there it stops it sitting right and causes problems. I use a scriber or small watch-menders screwdriver to clean the groove out. You can buy the calipers new for £120-ish a pair these days, which means it's hardly worth overhauling them. Nick Forgot to ask before - which car for the 10CR? Spit or Guy's 13/60? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I had also thought this but a bit of digging reveals as always some varients. I actually do rebuild the calipers as then I can buy the Stainless Steel pistons, which the new or recon ones don't have. And as the biggest culprit for failure always seems to be corrosion especially if not driven frequently it seemed a good choice to me. However piston sizes. Vitesse up to HC53394 & GT6 Mk1 GT6 MK2 up to KC5601977 Used 307976/307977 P Calipers with piston 510792 with 1.5mm groove Vitesse from HC53394 Used 307976/307977 P Calipers with piston 157685 with 5mm groove (note this is still the same P caliper which implies pistons interchangeable) GT6 from KC56078 Can/did use either 307976/307977 P Calipers or 311851/311852 PB Calipers both of these use piston 157685 Late GT6 Mk3 and anything else so fitted (like my Vitesse by me) PB Metric Caliper 159026/159027 use piston 157685. Rimmers have a note that implies that the early 510792 piston with 1.5mm groove is 54mm diameter whereas the 157685 piston with 5mm groove is 57mm diameter. Which is confusing given that on the Vitesse the same caliper 307976/7 is shown using both of these pistons, unless it implies that with the correct seals that the pistons are interchangeable. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roulli Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Sorry for confusing, - Nick is right! It's the dust seals, that came actually in 2 versions I wasn't aware of Alan's findings though.. However the all new calipers available these days, are said to be of low quality - at least the smaller type 14 calipers , according to Spitfirescheune I intended to buy them as well, when I switched to DOT5, but the dealer had just removed them from the list and is only offering refurbished calipers now. I refurbished them myself, no leaks since and nice hard pedal feel. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 I have the piston with 1,5 mm groove and the dustseals without the springs. The groove for the seal in the caliper is rustfree AND clean as you don't play around with brakes. Its only one caliper which causes trouble, which makes me think that I have the correct parts combination. Fitting is fairly easy too. @ Nick : we take Guy's Herald Estate which was our backup car from the beginning @ Alan : Thank you for confusing us all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I bought a new pair of 16PBs for the Spit as we didn't have any to rebuild/exchange. Fine so far - though hardly a long-term test yet. Otherwise I have mainly dealt with 16Ps (I hate the dust covers) but I can confirm that it's possible to use the main seals from a PB kit in a P as I have done this with complete success. I doubt that the P/PB/M have a different basic piston diameter - but I have no hard data. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I thought the Spit used type 14 calipers? are the 14 and 16 interchangeable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 They do - usually. Ours has GT6 running gear front and rear. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Brakes are finally sorted, no leaks and good pressure. Clutch hydraulics were a 10 min job I also figured out how to route the heater hoses, needed two T-pieces to replicate the original design with the saloon inlet manifold. I really like this view ! Things to do while the car in on the lift are changing the rear lower suspension bushes and loosening the exhaust to try to center it better between chassis outrigger and spare wheel well. JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Looking good JC. Sorry not to see it on the 10CR. Good luck with the heater valve - I got fed up with those crappy repro Smiths ones splitting their diaphragms. I've got fewer hoses to worry about though. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 Some more work on the Vitesse after the successfull 10CR. Fitted both sets and the seatbelts A special request from Alan, carb spacer to help them stay cool Made a mess while getting oil up to pressure with the hand drill AND tried to start the engine .... which was net yet successfull. Will fetch NEW Bosch sparkplugs tomorrow and try again. Timing is definitely right now and we have fuel in the carbs. One thing we noticed is that the high torque starter motor seems to turn over way slower then a standard one !? JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Check the cables and earths straps are good - jump leads can be helpful for that. My ND reduction gear starter (ancient, ex scrapped Toyota) spins the engine very quickly. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 You won't regret the carb spacer, sorry about the mess, I always use a portable drill to pump the oil as its more controllable than a mains one, I also put an O ring around the shaft so that its just on the dist pedestal and put a lump of rag around the shaft into the pedestal to prevent an overflow. That really is looking nice though! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 MY HT starter also spins the engine over faster than the standard one, as Nick says check the cabling especially the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motov8id Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Moss USA had India made 16p calipers a ridiculously cheap price so i bought a pair should also be available a Moss UK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 New day, new spark plugs ..... and another checkover revealed that the timing was 180 degrees out ....... Then the car started on the first turn of the key While trying out another dizzy rotor yesterday we killed the dizzy cab as the rotor was to long! Car only running on 4 cylinder and fuelpump pisses fuel everywhere. All screws torqued up to the maximum and new dizzy cab got this : Impossible to get the idle down as the butterflys don't close enough, but that should be ease to sort. And the CO level is very low, max I had was 1,5 % with the jets about 2mm down. Beside all that the engine REALLY wants to rew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roulli Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Congratulations!! Looking forward for a ride... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 It turned out hat the low CO level was air passing trough the modified inlet manifold. So I had the shims I added to make the inlet manifold clear the exhaust manifold fully welded up by a workmate. After that I had trouble with fuel pouring out of the fuelpump and one carb …. But the engine runs now and I have done around 20 miles trying to find the right needles. The engine runs on special Grade 30 running in oil from Millers which is still very clean. But I find that the engine is very noisy and I don't understand why …. Maybe you can give me a clue or convince me that everything is fine JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 Always hard to tell on videos as the microphones always over-emphasise the high frequency mechanical noise...... but sounds like there is quite alot of valve train clatter? Is also possible there is some exhaust blow on the head/manifold joint? I say this as small blows can sound like tappets sometimes and it seems that the noise gets less when you go to the other side of the engine. What cam? Tappet settings to manufacturers spec? Getting oil to the top end? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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