spitty67 Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Hi, I have just strip the spitfire engine down in preporation for a set of mods. I plan on fitting dellortos to replace the 1 1/2 in SUs which could not handle the newman fast road cam shaft. I have fitted a facet solid state fuel pump in the rear by the tank (which is pretty noisy) and routed the fuel pipe and wire through the centre of the car. The question here is does anyone know a good supplier of cable/ pipe clamps to hold the hose in place in varous positions? Something similar to on Dave's setup would be ideal. I have fitted Megajolt which has been working a dream but not entirely trusting my own soldering skills I have left the Dizzy in place incase of failure. Could someone please enlighten me as to what is involved in blanking the dizzy hole off without affecting oil flow? Kind regards, Andy W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 cable clips are available from vehicle wirring products. to blank off dizzy, leave the drive gear in place to drive the oil pump, and make sure your capping doesnt foul that in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Note you still need the piece on the distributer mount that goes down into the engine to hold the drive gear in place so don't remove it completely. Andy (no megajolt but thinking about it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I 've read on here you could put a core plug in place of the distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RealWorld Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Mmmm - I'm interested in pursuing JohnD's idea of using the 'top' of the dizzy as a trigger wheel for MJolt. As well as being pretty elegant, this would mean avoiding the addition of a trigger wheel to an already balanced bottom end, keeping the dizzy drive in place for the oil pump, and making use of an otherwise redundant crank speed output shaft. I've got a spare 1300 dizzy in the garage - I may go and start dismantling to see what kind of cog could be added... Am I mad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Richard, Be aware that you are loosing the advantage of rock steady timing, when going for a triggerwheel on the dizzy. This is because of play in the timing chain and gears. Frederick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Has to be crank driven, waste of time otherwise. Provided the trigger wheel isnt attached by a monkey itll make NO difference at all to the balance of the bottom-end : This isn't a Bugatti Veryon engine, it's an old cast iron thing built to skyscraper tolerances, it was miles out of balance from new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Mmmm - I'm interested in pursuing JohnD's idea of using the 'top' of the dizzy as a trigger wheel for MJolt. As well as being pretty elegant, this would mean avoiding the addition of a trigger wheel to an already balanced bottom end, keeping the dizzy drive in place for the oil pump, and making use of an otherwise redundant crank speed output shaft. I've got a spare 1300 dizzy in the garage - I may go and start dismantling to see what kind of cog could be added... Am I mad? Eh, what?!? I'm all in favour of "elegant", but when did I suggest that? What was I taking? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RealWorld Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 He he he - maybe it wasn't you John! It was in a thread about trigger wheels n'stuff - maybe you were the flywheel starter ring advocate - but I fancied you as the dizzy man myself... I wouldn't have though the play between crank and dizzy was that significant myself - but then I've though some pretty crazy stuff before so.... (stuart) This plan is for the racer - it's a very developed close tolerance 1300 with a fully balanced, lightened, tuftrided bottom end. Currently works on electronic ignition with a rev limiter. Don't wanna dismantle the whole bottom end to rebalance with a trigger wheel, but I'll take common sense advice! R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Eh, what?!? I'm all in favour of "elegant", but when did I suggest that? What was I taking? John Hi John It wasn't you. It was James in this thread of yours http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk/forum/Blah.pl?m-1211898493/ Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Not me James... I should add Seems silly do do that really - as you get all the inaccuracies of the chain etc Surely a trigger wheel isn't going to make it that out of balance? (can you not balance the trigger wheel on its own? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mother Teresa Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Has to be crank driven, waste of time otherwise. Provided the trigger wheel isnt attached by a monkey itll make NO difference at all to the balance of the bottom-end : This isn't a Bugatti Veryon engine, it's an old cast iron thing built to skyscraper tolerances, it was miles out of balance from new. Couldn't agree more. No great shakes to fit it on the crank. Fit and forget and its then out of sight as well. Drop a core plug into the dizzy pedestal, very straight forward . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitty67 Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Cheers, That sounds like a much more straight forward mod than I was expecting! I third having the megajolt timing wheel on the crank. There is no point in having the wheel mounted on the diff with such a large tolerance chain. Mounting the wheel on the crank will mean that there will be no ignition respone delay and will rev and rev down much quicker. Less ignition timing scatter as well as any varation due to slop in the timing chain and camshaft to dizzy sprocket is translated into spark timing instanoesly by the electronic megajolt system. Any imbalance from adding the wheel with one tooth missing will be minimal and will not have much of an effect. Thanks, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Phew, glad that's sorted out then! Andy, I reread your OP: I have ....... routed the fuel pipe and wire through the centre of the car. I hope that doesn't mean your fuel line now passes into the driving compartment? Very out of the way of stones, road debris etc., but I wouldn't want fuel in there with me. The Facet pump comes with two bobbin mounts that help, but do not eliminate the ticking of the pump. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I 've read on here you could put a core plug in place of the distributor. So did I and it works a treat but the only core plug I had (1") that would go in the hole was too loose so I packed it out a bit with some 25mm PVC sleeving ;D ============ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 There's always the distributor based cog wheel, where you mount a toothed wheel in the top of the dizzy... Don;t think it worked. But just love to mention it. Whoops. Actually it was something worth reading about, if then apparently not suitable for triumph tolerances. Tim, How did you get that chromed pedastal mount off? I'm gonna run a pipe from mine to an oil catch tank, when I'm arsed and get that thing off the engine mount and make a new connecter plate for dizzy pedastal. Gonna post pics on actually doing something for once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 What's underneath to stop the drive gear climbing off the camshaft and stopping the oil pump? J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Pedestal acts as a thrust washer for the cog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bignick Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 So did I and it works a treat but the only core plug I had (1") that would go in the hole was too loose so I packed it out a bit with some 25mm PVC sleeving ;D ============ Thinking of the same thing for my GT6....did you have to chop up your dizzy to hold the oil pump drive in place? I'd prefer not to do this as I may want to keep the dizzy in case I needs to go back to stock setup! Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 You don't have to chop your distributor off, the pedestal holds the oil pump drive in place. That's also why there are washers under the pedestal; to set the end float Cheers, Frederick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGT6 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I just made a blanking plate out of 3mm Ally sheet, not as neat as the core plug though. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitty67 Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Looks neat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bignick Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 You don't have to chop your distributor off, the pedestal holds the oil pump drive in place. That's also why there are washers under the pedestal; to set the end float Cheers, Frederick Thanks Frederick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 You don't have to chop your distributor off, the pedestal holds the oil pump drive in place. That's also why there are washers under the pedestal; to set the end float Cheers, Frederick Like this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RealWorld Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I still like my 'dizzy as MJ trigger source' idea (2guns) OK - so mounting a trigger wheel on the pulley may be the easiest, and be very accurate, but: - a pulley mount on a previously balanced crank assembly MUST cause in-balance unless corrected, and at 8000 revs may be significant. - I find it hard to believe that the mechanical 'slack' between the crank and dizzy drive is significant in reality. To believe it is significant is like tossing every dizzy driven ignition system into a pile marked cack, and only believing in the way of the ECU. How inaccurate can a chain and a few gears be? And does it matter anyway? I would have thought that getting rid of the fairly random advance curve of a mechanical centrifugal and vacuum driven system for a pulse generated one would be a massive improvement. If the loses in the dizzy drive add up to half a tooth on a pulley mounted trigger wheel - so what? Go on - persuade me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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