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Weber/Dellorto Manifolds for Triumph 6 cylinders


Jim

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Single piece is best, but won't go under the bonnet, its for a saloon, unless you move the engine back 6" like Steve, and some HEAVY bulkhead mods.

 

You are stuck with that crap 3 piece thing.

 

Ok list of problems with it.

 

1, The hardware supplied is rubbish, the joints on each lever (2 each arm) arm are made of playdough, even the metal ones you can buy are rubbish.

 

2, The bars that link the joints as in problem 1 are not left and right threads, so you cannot EASILY adjust balance. TOTAL nightmare.

 

3, The bushes in the "towers" on the manifolds that take the long actuator rod are made from playdough, they wear out in about 500miles and the balance changes everytime you press the throttle.

 

4, The bars joining the rods from each carb to the main actuator need very very careful length adjustments, can take forever, I mean a day to get the carbs opening equally from idle to full throttle as the stepped design means the "arc" from the actuator rod is different at each carb, the main actuator rod and carbs are not level, a retard designed it.

 

This is very tricky to get setup. Especially even as new the rod-ends are rubbish and the bushes are crap and the actuator rod is not fat enough to avoid flex. You change 1 carb the rest go mad, its never the same cause of the plastic bushes etc.

 

There are more problems but...Basically these problems above means you can NEVER get proper minimalised fuelling to get mega economy, you have to setup a bit rich cause the openings of each carb is NEVER the same each time you open the throttle, so one time, say, 1 carb is open more than the rest, 1 closed more etc. So if you try to leanback the fuel as on a well connected and CONSTANT opening twin rig on a 4 banger, you get spitbacks when one carb opens more than the rest, or the other two are lean...Its SO frustrating.

 

I aim for total perfection and would want 35mpg from them, this is not possible when having to marginalise and compensate for linkage problems with more fuel etc.

 

Improvement possible.

 

Chuck all the hardware bar the alloy levers from the actuator rod and the actuator rod itself.

 

1, I can get these, use proper lined spherical rod ends (aircraft) in M5 left and right on the linkage arms from lever to carb.

 

2, Remake the bars better each rod-end to be left and right thread.

 

3, Bore out the housings on each manifold to take a plain Spherical bearing that is a PRESS fit :) in the housings that you just resized. Try to fit/source bearings that are a "toleranced" fit on the actuator mainshaft. If not bin the mainshaft and make it again.

 

4, Option 2 for improvement 3....Grind down the "towers" on each manifold, drill a hole and fit a male rose-joint, in each tower, these now support the mainshaft.

 

This is the cool bit...

 

You can now make the mainshaft level with the stepped carbs, so the mainshaft in relation to the carbs is perfectly distanced, (equal) to each idle stop screw and lever on the carb. Normally the mainshaft is flat to the engine and the carbs are stepped...

 

By Stepping the mainshaft and equalising the distance between mainshaft and each carbs lever or idle stop screw, you get rid of the  differing "arc" and different rod lengths between the lever on the carb and the lever coming off the mainshaft...So the carbs all open equally with no headaches...

 

All of the above it worth 5-6mpg me thinks...Thats if the rig was as good as it gets before, 15mpg over the state most of these rigs that come here are in.

 

You need to find some nice bloke who is local who is willing to do development work on your car in exchange for some slave labour?

 

If you are not willing to do the above, don't fit the Triple Carbs, the linkage and manifold system is THAT BAD.

 

...Edited for really bad typing :)

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Hmmm,

i`ll be using those ones Dave said were crap soon,although i have had the playdough throttle rod bushes replaced with bronze ones.

Methinks Dave could be setting up the rest if he wants to.

Steve

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Well the engines ready to go in and i`m going to run it in on some new HS6`s ive got and then sort out the Webers later,i`ll give you a call.

Cheers

Steve

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  • 4 weeks later...
Basically these problems above means you can NEVER get proper minimalised fuelling to get mega economy, you have to setup a bit rich cause the openings of each carb is NEVER the same each time you open the throttle, so one time, say, 1 carb is open more than the rest, 1 closed more etc. So if you try to leanback the fuel as on a well connected and CONSTANT opening twin rig on a 4 banger, you get spitbacks when one carb opens more than the rest, or the other two are lean...Its SO frustrating.

 

I have to admit my (triple-Weber'd) car's got the crap set-up on it and I pretty much recognise most of that. I could never figure out why some days it spits away like mad (particularly at lower revs) and then I don't hear a spit for ages. Starting to understand...

 

Hopefully, if we can get things organsed, GT will be sorting me out with a proper 6-3-1 manifold within the few months and after that I think I'd like to have a go and try sorting the Webers. Won't be until the later half of the year though. Reckon I'll need pester you for info at the time Dave  ;D

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I sorted my linkages etc with kit from Ilston & Robson - a good old fashioned Midlands firm. They often do kits on Fleabay. Mine would do several cars. The picture isn't the actual kit. The illustration shows some plastic ends, don't use them only use the metal ones. Best to contact them and get a kit made up.

 

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Damn Andre, that's a hell of a score.  There's probably not many more left in the world.  Have you studied Vizards notes on improving the head?  I'll wager that you have!

 

I may have some 40's or 42's available a bit down the road, once I get the 45's sorted...

 

 

 

Edit, looking it over it appears the carbs are stepped?  I hope so.  If there's a hood problem as hinted I have a mill to slightly taper the faces and point them down a bit for clearance.  I have the straight TR6 manifold here where that was done so I can prove it's viable.  If you have an issue...

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Thanks guys, it was rather by fluke I happen to look on ebay.

 

I tell you the last time I saw a MK1 setup was back in 2002, but I could not afford it.

So when I saw the intake I pounced, very $$$, but should be awesome after I follow everyones advice.

- Megajolt ignition.

- Possible new cam, we'll see its an early MK1 block

- Head pointing, MK1 can use all the help it can get

And finally some good carbs.

 

It seems I'll never be done. AWESOME.

 

 

A.

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