RustyLogic Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Hi, Looking at starting afresh with my webers. How does the following look? (before I waste my money!) Chokes: 34 Emulsion Tubes: F16 Main Jet: 135 Air Corrector: 160 Aux Venturi: 4.5 Accel Pump Jet: 40 Accel Bleed: 50 Idle Jet: 45F2 (not sure about the F2 - picked the one in the 'middle' of the range) Needle Valve: 175 Current setup: Chokes: 30 Emulsion Tubes: F11 Main Jet: 110 Air Corrector: 160 Aux Venturi: 4.5 Accel Pump Jet: 40 Accel Bleed: 50 Idle Jet: 50F11 Needle Valve: 175 All comment welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 You'll need 50F9 or 55/F8 idle. 45 too lean. F2 unlikely to work. If it works, leave it alone? Thats a massive load of cash those jets, bet thats £400. Unless the engine tuned and cam'ed stick with the 30chokes. Big chokes won't work as you think. It needs what it needs, thats not a book number, it's what it actually wants...So the chances of those jet's being good is reasonable, the chance of them being perfect is remote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyLogic Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 I think it comes to £150 ish. I was hoping starting from scratch might help get it working without spitting and cutting off the top end etc etc. The 'book' figures thatI stated seem so much different to what I have currently that they must be wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 You don't need to buy all that stuff. If you have 30mm chokes, stick them on a lathe and bore them out 1mm at a time and see if it makes any difference eg......31 ....32mm Then be clever and get yourself a load of number drills at 0.005 or 0.010mm intervals. so say you use 0.100, 0.110 0.115 0.120 0.125 0.130 until it runs fine. Nobody wants small jets of say 0.090 so you can raid the bins of people who have plenty of s/h ones. Then you just drill 'em out until it runs right..... It's what I always did, that way the money goes into my pocket for tuning cars not into expensive (and usually wasted) parts from retailers... : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyLogic Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 I tell you what is bloody annoying, I just found this which puts me fairly spot on already and my purchases would be a total waste of money and completely wrong. 40 DCOE jettings and settings for TR250/6 D = choke size E = auxiliary venturi F = main jet, controls fuel mixture in the emulsion tube as cruise circuit is activated G = emulsion tube H = air corrector jet, affects only performance at high RPM I = idle jet, affects idle and progression circuit J = accelerator pump jet K = accelerator pump inlet valve with exhaust orifice (also called a discharge bleed). L = needle valve, affects fuel flow into the float bowl Reference D E F G H I J K L ----------------------------------------------------------- Weber (0) 30 4.5 120 F11 160 50/F11 40 50 ? Haynes (0) 27 4.5 130 F2 160 50/F11 45 0 2.00 Fitzgerald (0) 27 4.5 120 F11 160 49/F9 60 ? 1.75 TriumphTune (0) 28 4.5 115 F16 175 50/F9 35 ? - TriumphTune (0) 30 4.5 125 F16 180 50/F9 35 ? - Phillips 30 4.5 155 F11 200 45/F9 50 ? - C. Kantarjiev 28 4.5 110 F2 160 45/F9 - ? - A. Nugent (1) 28 4.5 120 F16 175 50/F9 35 ? - A. Nugent (2) 30 4.5 120 F16 180 50/F9 35 ? - A. Nugent (3) 33 4.5 125 F16 185 50/F9 40 ? - L. Bickel (4) 28 - 120 F11 160 -/F9 - ? - B. Mains (5) 30 - 120 F11 160 60/F9 50 ? - R. Lang (6) 28 4.5 125 F16 160 55/F12 45 ? - R. Lang (7) 28 4.5 120 F2 165 55/F12 45 ? - S. Ingate (8) 30 - 120 F11 - 50/F11 40 ? - 40 DCOE-151 (9) 30 4.5 115 F11 200 45/F9 40 100 1.75 S. Ingate (10) 45 C. Arnold (11) 140 F11 160 55F9 *EDIT* more details and source here: http://triumph.hottr6.com/tr6weber.html *EDIT* GT - ta, but I have no access to a lathe and my selection of and skill with drill bits is fairly non-existent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 GT - ta, but I have no access to a lathe and my selection of and skill with drill bits is fairly non-existent! good grief, just go into a hobby model shop and ask for a 12v model drill!! weber jets are only brass, takes about 30secs to modify one using a finger and thumb. what could be hard about that? take your chokes into a machine shop. takes about 5 mins to modify!! : Oh, and most of the info you cited on that page is twaddle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 You checked the prices recently, of new stuff £150 I wish! That would cover 1 carb at retail. Your current jets are more suited than the suggested ones! If you just hold the drill bits in a vice and twist the jets into the drill, its a finger job as GT says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHR630 Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I got my drills from http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/. My jetting was OK, except the cruise was really "pulsey". Opened out the hole on the Idles according to Mr Sideways advice and she cruised beautifully now. Amazing how one small change can have such a dramatic effect! BTW I use 32mm chokes on my 2 litre only because I use 130 mains and I think the "rule of thumb" the relationship of choke to mains is 4:1 i.e 130/4 = 32.5. (I think that's from Des Hammill's book) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Excellent web URL thanx!! ONE small step .... Now all I need is a cheap 20 tonne compact hand held press and a monster 30 free standing one.. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHR630 Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've been buying stuff off Chronos for years, V. easy to deal with and quick response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 You checked the prices recently, of new stuff £150 I wish! That would cover 1 carb at retail. Your current jets are more suited than the suggested ones! If you just hold the drill bits in a vice and twist the jets into the drill, its a finger job as GT says. I'm up to £50 so far on jets for just a sigle DCOE 45 that I'm trying to get spot on dialed in... and it's bloody close already. So that's £150 when times by 3 already, and that doesn't include the really expensive bits (i've not bought chokes or emulsion tubes)... On chokes, 34 sounds big... I would have thought 30 to 32 would be right depending on state of engine and where you want your power. General rule I've also read is to stay on the lower side as this will be more drivable offering better midrange sacrificing very little at the top end. As you've got 30's already, thats a good hundred quid or so saved... maybe try tweaking elsewhere first... What exactly are you not happy with at the moment? Maybe people could suggest changes from your current base which may work out a more effective and economical way of tuning? But i'm new here, could have missed that question already... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyLogic Posted September 3, 2008 Author Share Posted September 3, 2008 Thanks chaps, I'll put them back together and see what the problem is (took them apart and cleaned up due to th accel jets being full of crud). Might take awhile as the front suspension is currently in bits on the garage floor too! Before they came apart there was a fair amount of spitback at idle and she would not rev over 5k. Also noted on stripdown that some main jets were 110 and some 115 which expect was not helping matters! I have got some 33 chokes, is it worth rebuilding using those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I'd leave the 30mm chokes in but get yourself a selection of main jets, if it's that gutless at the top end I think it could be a lack of fuel... I'd start by getting 6 115's, 120's and 125's and go from there... If it were fine lower down the rev's I'd say just drop the air jet which has a more pronounced effect right at the top, but as you say it's poor throughout I'd swap out the main first. Make sure your timing is in a good ball park mind cos if that's miles out it'll all be a fruitless exercise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHR630 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Those mains do seem very small for 33 chokes. I think you need something like 130 mains and 160 - 180 airs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 110/115 for any form of race cam is miles too small. They usually used them in cooking Renaults/Simcas with road cams. I don't think I've ever used anything smaller than 125, but if you have the right bits in the engine, cam head, exhaust, then you can easy take it out to 32mm choke, and you shouldn't fall off a cliff at 33. Btw you never orginally said if they were 40, 42 or 45 DCOE Timing will be 28-30 or something's wrong with the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyLogic Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 Thanks all, you've saved me a lot of pointless expense! I'm running a fast road cam so I'll stick with what I have and 6x 115s and see how I go. GT - they are dcoe 40 This forum is a godsend! ;D ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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